Hodinkee
Introducing: The David Candaux DC12 Maverik
Independent watchmaker David Candaux delivers a new double balance caliber in a sculpted 39.5mm case.
Results for Caliber B01
665 articles · 61 videos found · page 15 of 25
Hodinkee
Deployant
New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A.
Grand Seiko releases a new addition to their Spring Drive U.F.A model with Caliber 9RB2 which was first shown at WWG this year. The new release is in a special stainless steel and a deep violet textured dial. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. The Grand Seiko SpringRead More
SJX Watches
Trilobe Takes Up the Mantle of French Watchmaking with the Trente-Deux
Best known for its signature time display comprised of three off-center discs, Trilobe has introduced its first sport watch, the Trente-Deux. It’s yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet, but the Trente-Deux is more notable for being the debut platform for the new X-Nihilo caliber, which for movement geeks will overshadow the launch of the new collection itself. The X-Nihilo is a relatively simple automatic caliber, and many of its components are produced in Trilobe’s own newly established CNC workshop near the French capital. It remains to be seen whether this domestic manufacturing initiative will prove viable long-term; the recent past is full of false starts aimed at rebuilding the French watchmaking industry. Initial thoughts I admit a certain fascination for watches without hands, that indicate the time with jumping windows, wandering displays, and revolving discs. The Trente-Deux, like the brand’s other watches, is an example of the latter. The hour is read at the top of the dial, using the logo as a pointer. The minutes slip by through a window in the dial, and the seconds disc rotates around a central hub embellished with stamped Clous de Paris. The asymmetrical layout is visually compelling and results in a pleasing amount of negative space that somehow doesn’t feel empty. This might be due to the sunray pattern, which emanates outward from the center of the seconds disc. In terms of colour, grey and navy blue are safe, pragmatic choices tha...
Fratello
The Platinum 321 Is The Pinnacle Of Speedmaster Moonwatches
Omega not only introduced the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary editions in 2019 but also brought back the legendary caliber 321. On July 21st of that year, precisely 50 years after the Speedmaster became the Moonwatch, the brand introduced that movement in a platinum Moonwatch, the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Platinum ref. 311.93.42.30.99.001. Omega Speedmaster Calibre […] Visit The Platinum 321 Is The Pinnacle Of Speedmaster Moonwatches to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - Quintessential Genta, Revised
The brand's second caliber since the relaunch combines many Genta's favorite elements into one stunning watch.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition In Steel And Yellow Gold
I bet you’ve read the expression “When life turns you upside down, simply adjust your view!” before. The saying came to mind when the latest version of the Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition arrived at Fratello HQ. This steel and yellow gold monopusher chronograph has an open-worked movement, and this in-house caliber 16.26 […] Visit Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition In Steel And Yellow Gold to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Valjoux 7750: The Story Of The World's Most Famous Chronograph
The Valjoux 7750 chronograph caliber has been a mainstay of the Swiss watch industry for more than 50 years, finding its way into hundreds of watch models, under many dozens of names, and providing the technical base for numerous high complications over the years. Why is it so ubiquitous and still such an enduring presence in the watch world today? Here is a brief history of the "workhorse" mechanism that became the world's most famous and familiar chronograph movement. Valjoux 7750 Roots: The Vallée de Joux Sunset over the Vallée de Joux In actuality, the origins of the Valjoux 7750 go back much longer than the half-century it has actually been on the market. The company that came to be called “Valjoux” started up at the very beginning of the 20th century, taking its original name, Reymond Frères SA, from its founders, brothers John and Charles Reymond. The company, which specialized in making mechanical chronograph movements for military and sport-oriented timekeepers, changed its name in 1929 to Valjoux - a shortened reference to the scenic Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, where it and many of its client watchmakers were located. The firm’s most successful and historically impactful creations included the manually wound, column-wheel-driven, monopusher Caliber 22, in 1914, and its even more significant successor, the smaller, longer-lived Caliber 23, in 1916. In honor of the founding brothers' surname, Valjoux movements were inscribed with a shield em...
Deployant
Reviewed: two new Breitling Chronomats in collaboration with Erling Haaland
Breitling collaborates Erling Haaland, on 2 new Chronomat models: Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 in steel and platinum, and the Chronomat B01 42 in red gold.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Vs. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph
It’s that time of the week again, and we are back with a heated Sunday Morning Showdown. This time, Daan and Jorg will battle it out in a clash of lightweight titanium divers that they would love to wear this summer. Daan picked the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. Its solar-powered quartz caliber makes […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Vs. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A
Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive U.F.A (SLGB003) sets a new benchmark in mechanical watchmaking with an astonishing ±20 seconds per year accuracy. Wrapped in a new slimmer Evolution 9 case and finished with a dial inspired by winter in Shinshu, it’s a masterclass in subtle innovation and timeless elegance. What We Love The Calibre 9RB2 delivers an incredible +/- 20 seconds per year, redefining what is possible from a mainspring-powered mechanical movement The new 37mm case size makes the timepiece highly wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The beautifully textured dial captures Grand Seiko’s unique blend of craftsmanship and storytelling. What We Don’t While very comfortable, the standard three-link bracelet feels a little too plain for a release of this calibre. For a groundbreaking caliber, the caseback view feels a little subdued. For such a significant release, the design feels a little too in line with previous Evolution 9 models. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Grand Seiko was first established in 1960 as a sister brand to Seiko, created to combat the Swiss watchmakers and their high-end luxury timepieces. While Seiko made affordable everyday timepieces, It was Grand Seiko’s role to create unique, innovative pieces that would cater to the luxury and high-end watchmaking market. Among the many different innovations and stunning dial aesthetics, one key aspect that truly makes Grand S...
SJX Watches
J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure
J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s. This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare. Initial Thoughts When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model. The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000. The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence. At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a ...
Fratello
What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller?
The Rolex Land-Dweller was the most talked-about release of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Regardless of whether the watch appealed to everyone, due to the groundbreaking new caliber and revival of the Oysterquartz design, the general impact of the Land-Dweller was palpable. We had an opportunity to experience the 36mm and 40mm models during Watches […] Visit What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? to read the full article.
Fratello
Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Martini Evening
Breitling and Fratello hosted an event at the brand’s beautiful boutique in The Hague a few weeks ago. During this event, guests could try out the new Breitling Top Time B01 models, including the new Martini Racing edition. To boost the event, Breitling arranged for a Lancia Delta HF in Martini execution to serve as […] Visit Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Martini Evening to read the full article.
Fratello
An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement
Rolex surprised friend and foe with a new movement at this year’s Watches and Wonders. While that’s always a relatively big deal in our little horological sub-universe, caliber 7135 represents a particularly big milestone. Rolex developed a brand-new escapement dubbed Dynapulse. We felt it was about time we took a closer look at it. Of […] Visit An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement to read the full article.
Hodinkee
My Speedmaster Story: Peter Attia
In the third installment of our four-part series in partnership with Omega, an entrepreneur and medical professional shares his pre-Moon caliber 321.
Hodinkee
My Speedmaster Story: Howie Kendrick
In the second installment of our four-part series in partnership with Omega, the Washington National shares his pre-Moon caliber 321.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
The brand celebrates it's 270th anniversary with a brand-new caliber, limited to 127 pieces.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Gets A 34mm Case
A new case size also brings a new caliber, the brand's 75th.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. - A Vintage Chronometric Resurrection To Honor The Brand's Founder
A new collection, a newly reworked vintage Caliber 135, and Zenith's 160-year pursuit of accuracy.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater And Reverso Hybris Artistica Gyrotourbillon
The storied brand releases a brand-new minute repeater and revisits the 4th caliber of their Gyrotourbillon exploration.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Day Reference 5328G-001
A new hand-wound caliber with advanced architecture yields a beautiful 8 day power reserve in a Calatrava case.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Goes Automatic (Again)
Don't call it XL, but maybe "Jumbo," the newest Tank LC features a self-winding caliber, for the first time in decades.
Fratello
Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition
In celebration of its quarter-century anniversary, Gerald Charles presents the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. This is a jump-hour watch with an in-house-designed caliber. Naturally, the new timepiece features the brand’s signature baroque case shape, but it is fully modernized with Grade 5 titanium construction. We’ve covered the majority of new releases from Gerald Charles […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium, Blue Edition
Angelus releases a new collection with the Flying Tourbillon Titanium, adopting the maison's signature open work style and a new hand-wound caliber.
Fratello
Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition
Today, Grand Seiko introduces the SLGH027 “Mountainscape,” a limited-edition watch celebrating the brand’s 65th anniversary. The piece features the automatic Hi-Beat 9SA5 caliber, which debuted in 2020. As part of the Evolution 9 collection, this watch is not retro at all but a modern reference with stunning details. Grand Seiko always has a strong start […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions
Ever since the Big Bang Meca-10 came out in 2016, the watch has stood out thanks to its 10-day caliber with a Meccano-inspired architecture. This year, though the 10-day power reserve isn’t new, some other things are. The re-engineered Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 now measures 42mm in diameter and comes in three variations. You can […] Visit Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275
Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff. Initial thoughts At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique. At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic. The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition. In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The b...
Fratello
The New Berneron Mirage 34 - My Favorite Watch Of 2024
The new Berneron Mirage 34 joins last year’s 38mm models in the small brand’s growing lineup. As we’ll see, these aren’t simply downsized editions. Each model showcases a stone dial and a new caliber. Hint: these are my favorite watches of this year so far. Sylvain Berneron is the name behind the eponymous brand he […] Visit The New Berneron Mirage 34 - My Favorite Watch Of 2024 to read the full article.
Fratello
A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet
Three years ago, I had the pleasure of wearing the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet for a little while. The combination of a 40mm steel case with a characteristic stepped bezel, a classic white dial, and a complete-calendar caliber proved an impressive watch at a competitive price. I wrote that the watch that bucks the retro […] Visit A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet to read the full article.
Fratello
My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional
On this very day, October 1st, 25 years ago, I bought my first Omega Speedmaster watch. I was a student at the time and obsessed with watches, specifically, Omega Speedmasters. My first purchase was a Speedmaster 145.012 with caliber 321. One evening, I was cycling in the city center of The Hague and passed a […] Visit My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.