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Introducing: The Seiko Presage SPB161 And SPB163
Seiko coming in hot with two new enamel offerings
Results for Cloisonné Enamel
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Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Extra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon Reference 5367: The Power Of Blue
What makes an enamel dial so magical? That is the question Martin Green asked himself when presented with the new version of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique with a blue oven-fired enamel dial that Breguet recently launched. You may enjoy the answer he came up with.
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The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie ‘Tao’
Faubourg de Cracovie Chronograph is now available in a 'Panda' variation. The dial is enamel with a pair of cut out black enamel subdials. A red tipped seconds hand and red XII marker provides a sporty touch to the otherwise classic design of the dial.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique Dame 9065 Tahitian Mother-of-Pearl
Following the launch of the Classique 5177 in blue enamel last year, Breguet has now unveiled its feminine equivalent, the Classique Dame 9065. It’s dressed up in feminine style with a Tahitian black mother-of-pearl dial and brilliant-cut diamonds, but still bears Breguet’s trademark design with pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals. A limited edition of 28 pieces, the watch has a dainty rose-gold case measuring 33.5mm wide and just 7.55mm high thanks to the ultra-thin movement inside. The case is classical Breguet, featuring slim, straight lugs and a finely fluted case band. The bezel and lugs are set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling approximately 0.606 carats, while the crown is set with a ruby. They frame a dial covered with a thin slice of black mother-of-pearl. Derived from black-lipped oysters found in and around Tahiti and the French Polynesian islands, Tahitian mother-of-pearl is prized for its naturally dark colour as well as its visual complexity. Apart from being much rarer than white mother-of-pearl, it also has vivid undertones accented with overtones of marine colours like violet and green. The dial features Breguet-style Arabic numerals printed on the mother of pearl, and classic Breguet hands with a slight – and unfortunately kitschy – twist: the seconds hand has a heart-shaped counterweight. To match the heart-shaped seconds and ruby cabochon, the date features a red disc printed with off-white numerals. Visible through the sapphire case...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Dance of the Gemstones’
Another of the strikingly elegant, one-off minute repeaters that’s part of Vacheron Constantin’s 2019 Les Cabinotiers line-up is the Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Dance of the Gemstones’. Well, it is actually two repeaters, a matched pair of his-and-hers watches (that are available separately nonetheless) with eggshell grand feu enamel dials and ruby hour markers. The dials are extravagant yet elegant, evoking prominent watches of many decades ago. They are inspired by high-end gentlemen’s wristwatches of the 1950s that combined silvered or enamel dials with ruby hour markers, with baguette-cut stones for the quarters and brilliant-cut in between. These were often special orders for royalty or as royal gifts, with the best known being the pocket- and wristwatches made for King Saud bin Abdulaziz of Saudi Arabia that bore his portrait on the enamel dial. His and hers A Patek Philippe ref. 2481 from 1955 with a cream enamel dial bearing a portrait of King Saud bin Abdulaziz. Image – Christie’s Both the repeaters share a similar case design, but different diameters and decoration – the men’s version is 41mm while the ladies’ watch is 39mm with a diamond-set bezel and crown. The watches are otherwise identical, powered by the same cal. 1731, an extra-flat, hand-wound movement that was developed in-house. Key facts and price Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘The Dance of the Gemstones’ Men’s model – ref. 6630C/000R-B662 Ladies’ model – r...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Commissioning the Voutilainen GMT-Villes Custom Time Zone Watch
Voutilainen watches are well loved for their dials, which are made in-house and offered with a myriad of finishes – primarily guilloché or enamel – as well as numerous colours and appliques. But unconstrained freedom leads to hesitation, and too many choices make a decision difficult. American psychologist Barry Schwartz, writing in The Paradox of Choice, notes that consumers are often happier having to choose from fewer options, rather than more. The author’s custom GMT-Villes But in my own collecting, perhaps the opposite is true. When I work with an independent watchmaker on a custom or bespoke watch, exploring the abundance of possibilities is the main attraction, particularly when I can specify the details face to face with the watchmaker himself. Investing sufficient time to figure out my goal makes the process of choosing not a task to be feared, but an enjoyable journey leading to the unique piece. This is my story of commissioning the GMT-Villes from Kari Voutilainen (which happened slightly before I embarked on a similar project with Andreas Strehler). Kari Voutilainen in his showroom. Image – FHH The beginning of custom work After setting up his own workshop in 2002, Kari, then 40 years old, made his debut as an independent watchmaker with the Masterpiece series of wristwatches, starting with Masterpiece 6 unveiled at Baselworld in 2005. The Masterpiece watches were all one-off minute repeaters relying on rebuilt and finely decorated vintage ebauches ma...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 World Time Becomes Most Expensive Watch Sold in Asia
Just two weeks after the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel set the record for the most expensive watch ever when it sold for US$31m at Christie’s in Geneva, the auctioneer clinched the title of most expensive watch sold in Asia, toppling the former record holder. It sold a Patek Philippe ref. 2523 double-crown world time wristwatch – with a blue enamel dial signed by Milan retailer Gobbi – for HK$70.175m including fees, equivalent to US$8.97m. The result yields a tidy profit for the seller, a noted Asian collector who purchased the watch in 2010 at Christie’s in Geneva for 2.675m Swiss francs. One of two known with a blue enamel dial and extremely crisp, the ref. 2523 was offered for sale in an unusual manner. Though it was part of the Hong Kong watch auction, the watch was instead offered as the first lot during the 20th century and contemporary art sale a few days before, presumably to appeal to buyers who regularly spend much larger sums on art. The watch was extensively documented by Christie’s in its catalogues, both online and offline, though it did not do the typical presale marketing tour around the region due to its insured value. The presale estimate of HK$55m-110m, or about US$7m-14m, made the ref. 2523 the most expensive lot to be ever offered at a watch auction – leading to some mutterings that the watch might not sell – so anticipation was high when the sale started at 5:30pm, especially since ultra high-value vintage watches are usual...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Christie’s Hong Kong Watch Auction Fall 2019
After a record-setting auction weekend in Geneva, the action moves to Hong Kong in the last week of November. Chatter about the Hong Kong auctions this year are dominated by one watch, the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 twin-crown world time in pink gold with a blue enamel dial, because it carries the highest pre-sale estimate in watch auction history of 55m-110m Hong Kong dollars, or about US$7m-14m. Instead of being sold along with the rest of the watches on November 27, it will be the opening lot in the evening sale of 20th century and contemporary art on November 23. With the top lot in the evening sale – Five Nudes by Sanyu – having an estimate of HK$250m-550m dollars, or about US$32m-70m, the twin-crown world time hardly looks out of place. The Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Equation of Time But the ref. 2523 aside, the rest of the Christie’s sale is made up of 239 more affordable timepieces, including an ultra-rare Patek Philippe ref. 3651 chronograph and a value-buy Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Equation of Time in platinum. Here’s a look at highlights from the sale. And the full catalogue can be found here. Lot 2298 – Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3800/108G in white gold, with diamonds and emeralds This is shameless 1990s bling – a Nautilus ref. 3800/108G. The suffix means it’s 18k white gold, fully set with brilliant-cut diamonds and having 11 baguette-cut emeralds for the hour markers. The watch feels weighty in the hand, though the case is compact. An...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Classical elegance shines in the Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077
Over the last few years, Seiko’s Presage collection has earned something of a reputation for excellence in enamel, with a quick succession of hot watches with fired dials. And while in the past these pieces have leant towards complexity, SJE075 and SJE077 simplify things a little, and serve as contrasting tributes to the original Seiko … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Classical elegance shines in the Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show
First introduced two years ago as an entry-level model styled on vintage marine chronometers, the Marine Torpilleur has just received an upgrade. The Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show is a limited edition fitted with a grand feu enamel dial, created to mark the watchmaker’s sponsorship, now in its 11th year, of the annual yachting event in Monte Carlo harbour. While the standard model has a brass dial, the Monaco edition has a three-part dial made of vitreous enamel that’s fired in an oven – a desirable feature that increases its retail price by a modest 20% or so. Like all of Ulysse Nardin’s enamel dials, it is produced by Donze Cadran, a subsidiary of the watchmaker that’s one of the few dial makers in Switzerland able to make fired enamel dials in substantial numbers. An old school dial The dial starts out as a copper disc that is covered with white enamel powder that’s then baked in a small oven, several dials at a go, to melt the enamel and fuse it to the dial. The dial has two apertures for each of the sub-dials, which are separate pieces that are covered in grey enamel and fired separately. After they are fired, the dials are printed with enamel markings, resulting in another trip to the oven to set the markings. Then the apertures on the main dial, as well as the edges of the sub-dials, are filed by hand to ensure a perfect fit with each other. Once complete, the sub-dials are soldered to the main dial. The dial is marked “09.19” – the m...
SJX Watches
Sneak Peek: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”
On a recent trip to Geneva I dropped by the Akrivia workshops in the city’s Old Town and spotted the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”, still in its constituent parts and almost ready for assembly. The dial, however, was finished and gorgeous. It’s a serene grey-blue, made of translucent enamel over a hand-hammered dial plate. Produced with lots of careful effort and a tiny hammer, the hammered finish is usually only applied to Akrivia’s gold dials found on the AK series watches, and is being combined with enamel for the first, and probably only, time. It was a tedious process to get right, which is why the Akrivia is one of the last to be completed amongst the Only Watch line-up. Produced by the same Geneva enamel artisan that does the fired enamel, or grand feu, dials of the standard watch, this dial for the Only Watch example is the second one made, hence “version 2” on its packaging. Rexhep felt the first dial made was not up to scratch – it had too much variation in colour – and had a second one produced. And the first dial was finished only after a handful of trial runs, where it was established that the thinning effect of the hammered surface meant it could not be counter-enamelled on the back as the standard dials are. Aside from the hammered surface, the dial is also unique because the markings are painted in fired enamel, rather than printed. This makes the numbers, lines and text more substantial. And because the ena...
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Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial
Presage Arita Porcelain Dial The Presage collection has positioned itself as the collection that matches artistic craft with mass market affordability. Seiko rides on the mystic of its Japanese heritage, tradition and craft-culture to create watches with intriguing dials; from enamel to Urushi lacquer. In Basel 2019, it released a new set of porcelain dialRead More
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Review: Tutima Patria Admiral Blue SS
An extension to the elegant Tutima Patria line, now in stainless steel with either a magnificent cold enamel blue or grey dial. We review the Admiral Blue.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”
Akrivia’s entry for Only Watch 2019 is a unique variant of its critically acclaimed Chronomètre Contemporain but with an added bonus – the platinum case is made by storied case specialist Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The first outing at Only Watch for Akrivia and its founder Rexhep Rexhepi, the unique Chronomètre Contemporain is equipped with a dial made of grey-blue fired enamel featuring white enamel markings. But the dial is unusual for having a hand-hammered finish, a decoration typically only applied to gold dials, giving it a granular surface. The view from the back of the 38mm platinum case is identical to that of the standard model, save for the “JHP” hallmark on the lower right lug. It’s short for Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a semiretired case maker who was responsible for some of the most exquisite watch cases of the 1980s and 1990s. Amongst his work is the incredibly complex case of the Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 pocket watch. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” is the first watch to emerge from the recently inked collaboration between Akrivia and Mr Hagmann. Stay tuned for more on this. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” has an estimate of 40,000-60,000 Swiss francs, and will go under the hammer on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva. The complete Only Watch 2019 collection can be seen on onlywatch.com.
Time+Tide
5 of the hottest Jaeger-LeCoultre watches of 2019
Editor’s note: There’s word on the street that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2019 collection is in town. And that word is from us, because we’re throwing a party to celebrate the fact, tonight. If you’re a fan of enamel or the Master Ultra Thin collection, you should be all over these watches. Watch below and you’ll see why … ContinuedThe post 5 of the hottest Jaeger-LeCoultre watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
anOrdain Watches: Hands-On With The Model 1
Curious about anOrdain Watches? This standout microbrand offers unique enamel dials, but do they live up to the hype? Let's find out.
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New release with hands-on: Romain Gauthier Insight Micro Rotor White Gold Limited Editions
Romain Gauthier extends the Insight Micro Rotor collection with a series of enamel dials in a white gold case. Limited 3 x 10 pieces.
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Live from Baselworld 2019: Tutima
Highlights from Tutima next. And we begin with Patria, a line extension in SS, previously only in RG. Two versions, one as shown in Admiral blue cold enamel dial and a grey dial. Both with in-house hands. Movement is the CT617, 65hr power reserve. Case diameter 43mm. Price € 4,900 incl German VAT. Next aRead More
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Live from Baselworld: Czapek
Line extensions for Czapek this year to the Faubourg de Cracovie line. If we remember the line is a new chronograph with vertical clutch. New is the salmon series which we covered the Press Release. Case size 41.5mm in SS at CHF 24,000 before taxes. Next line comprise of expressions in enamel. The first isRead More
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Live from Baselworld 2019: Romain Gauthier
We start Romain Gauthier with a new Insight Micro Rotor Black Titanium now with a blue grand feu enamel dial. RG makes the dial base and works with an enameling to apply the enamel and the final finishing of frosting is done in house by abrasive the shiny enamel finish to get the frosted look.Read More
Revolution
Fabulously Blue: Breguet Classique 5177 and Limited Edition Marine 5517
Breguet fires into 2019 with the Classique 5177 and limited edition Marine 5517 featuring Grand Feu enamel dials in blue.
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Live from SIHH: Kari Voutilainen
Kari Voutilainen introduces 6 new pieces with different dial variations this year. We highlight two which caught our eye. In Ti, gold, plat and SS. Case sizes 37, 39, 44. First the Vingt-8 in 39mm In rose gold with an amazing black grand feu enamel dial made in-house. CHF 89,000. The special execution is theRead More
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Live from SIHH 2019: Laurent Ferrier
We divi right into the novelty. The Bridge. The first rectangular case with a firm movement. New caliber from LF. Two dial variations. In white enamel grand feu and in slate grey silver dial. CHF33,000 before taxes and CHF 37,000 for the enamel dial. Spherical sapphire over the dial. Laurent Ferrier Gallet Traveller and theRead More
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri Limited Edition SPB085
Over the last few years, Seiko has made a habit of releasing limited editions with exceptional enamel dials at very reasonable prices. First, there was the Moonlit Night, then the Shippo enamel, and now, the Urushi Byakudan-nuri. The vehicle for these delicate, incredible dials is the Presage collection. A classic round steel watch that marries … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri Limited Edition SPB085 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Watchscapes: Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon Blue Grand Feu Guilloche
Our Watchscapes feature of the new Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon Blue Grand Feu Guilloche. This is the update on the original white enamel from 2017.
Revolution
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367
The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 wears the grand feu enamel dial of the 7147, which is the polar opposite of the equally traditional, if ornate, engine-turned dial of the 5377.
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Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller Asia
In 2015, Laurent Ferrier launched the first version of a Galet Traveller with an enamel center dial featuring a world map. This initial view was Europe centric but in Laurent's mind, it was a first step to some other views of our planet to reflect its beauty and infinity. For this second version, Laurent Ferrier decided to focus on Asia and particularly on Singapore.
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Review: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367. The most beautiful tourbillon ever?
Breguet released the latest Classique Tourbillon Automatique 5367 at Baselworld 2018. This time with a Grand Feu Enamel dial. The 5367 is iconic for its displaced tourbillon carriage, and off-center hours and minutes display.
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Review: Baselworld 2017 Breguet Classique 7147
Breguet reveals its latest Classique rendition with the new Classique 7147 in enamel dial. The dial is complete with Breguet numerals, hands and an iconic d
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Baselworld 2017: Breguet Classique 7147
For Baselworld 2017, Breguet unveils the new Classique 7147, now with a grand feu enamel dial and Breguet numerals. Details and press release photos within.