Hodinkee
Introducing: The Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Limited Edition For Hodinkee
Hands? On a watch? How very 18th century…
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Hodinkee
Hands? On a watch? How very 18th century…
Worn & Wound
Over the last few years, the popularity of vintage watches has had some ups and downs, to say the least. It was only about five or six years ago that vintage was all anyone in our community seemed to be talking about. Rare references from Rolex and Patek were setting auction records, and enthusiasts who got into the hobby before the vintage boom suddenly found themselves with collections of real and surprising value on their hands. Things have calmed down a bit recently, and while I certainly wouldn’t say vintage is over by any means, it’s become a tougher nut to crack. Consumers are, correctly, more concerned with authenticity and originality than they ever have been, which has changed the landscape considerably. Among other things, it’s opened the door for brands to get into the vintage game, making rare references from their back catalogs available to the public with the promise of proper and careful restorations, ensuring the value and history of these watches haven’t been neglected by an inexperienced watchmaker or service center. Jaeger-LeCoultre is perhaps the highest profile brand to enter this market, and they’ve just unveiled their second capsule collection in their ongoing series, The Collectibles. A pair of Memovoxes from The Collectibles collection Last week, at the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique in Beverly Hills, collectors gathered for the big unveiling of the new eleven piece collection. Spanning periods of the brand’s history from the 1920s to the...
Worn & Wound
The Series 8 is Citizen’s take on the integrated bracelet sport watch genre that was introduced into the premium end of the brand’s catalog under the The Citizen banner, sporting the brand’s flagship movement developed in partnership with La Joux-Perret. It’s a watch we were quite fond of in our hands-on. This year, the Series 8 is taking a step in a new direction with the addition of this 880 GMT collection using the 9054 caliber, and some slightly familiar color schemes. This is a watch that ticks all meta boxes for the moment, and while it makes a lot of practical sense, has us wondering how it will fit into the broader Series 8 project in the long term. Integrated sports watches and so-called ‘flyer’ or ‘traveler’ GMT complications are certainly having their moment this year, which is great for consumers looking for more options at a wide range of price points. Combining the two seems only natural, however the landscape of integrated cases housing GMT movements is relatively sparse. Citizen brings the two together in this Series 8 880 GMT collection making use of the 9054 automatic caliber, which offers that ‘flyer’ functionality, and offers a higher magnetic resistance than the 9075 upon which it is based. The movement offers plenty of practical features, though will be pushing the price ceiling of watches using other variants. But a watch is more than a movement. There’s a full steel case and integrated bracelet here, which should justify the ...
Hodinkee
Two-tone dial, Breguet numerals, and details done right, all in a modern package, make for a fun homage to the classic Calatrava.
Deployant
Bell & Ross adds to their BR05 GMT collection a new model with a sky blue dial in a beautiful sunray finish. Here is our hands-on review.
Worn & Wound
With our first year behind us (thanks for all the well wishes!), we’re back with episode 53 of A Week In Watches with new releases from Tissot, Breguet, Seiko & more. One of our favorite watches of the summer (thus far) has come from Tissot, and it’s a forged carbon regatta timer called the Sideral. Yes, it’s a callback to something they’ve done in the past, and yes, it’s still awesome. With a carbon case and Powermatic 80 movement, this is a ton of watch (and funk) for about $1,100, see more here. Elsewhere, Breguet gives us a first look at new Type 20 and Type XX watches, with a stunning new movement and a date window that may leave you scratching your head. Head to the video on YouTube to give us your take on the date, as well as the rest of the watches in this week’s episode. Rounding things out, we’ve got news of a new Pontos S Diver from Maurice Lacroix, which is a welcome site from the brand, though we wonder if it could have done with a slight bit of modernization? Speaking of, Seiko has modernized their King Seiko with a trimmer case architecture and a new movement which brings a date to the regular production modern King Seiko. Finally, IWC has brought the silver dial back to the Mark Pilot watch and it works about as well as you’d expect, which is to say, pretty damn well. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com....
Hodinkee
After over two decades at Patek and Breguet, Quinet steps into one of the most prominent roles in the watch industry.
Hodinkee
The brand pays tribute to old masters with beautiful white silver-plated dials and blued steel hands in its latest limited edition release.
Deployant
Its Friday again! And letting our hair down, we taken a quick and closer look at my (new to me) Sinar X large 4×5 format camera with Nikkor W 180mm f/5.6 lens. We have covered large format film photography and cameras in our earlier TGIFriday articles. My first hands-on encounter was with the Sinar PRead More
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin’s original Freak shook the watch-o-sphere to the core when unveiled at Basel in 2001. It was like nothing anyone had seen before; a complete reimagining of how a watch can function and display time where there was no crown, no dial and no hands. Seemingly so complex with a gear train sprawled across … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Freak One is a super-freak and chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Dive watches, as many of their enthusiasts know, are not generally known for being understated in their dimensions. This is, of course, by design, and in the service of both legibility and safety. To be used underwater, often in very dark conditions, a watch needs to be sizable enough (as well as luminous enough) for the wearer to discern both the time on the main hands as well as the remaining immersion period as set on the dive scale bezel. For these and other practical reasons, most watches built for diving tend to come in at 40mm and above in diameter. However, as the dive watch has become more a fashion statement and less a wearable tool - for ladies as well as gents - watchmakers have responded by downsizing some of their popular divers to offer more choices for a wider range of wearers, including those who will likely never wear their timepiece underwater. In some cases, the designs of these more modestly sized dive watches are even drawn from the brands’ archives, from historical eras in which smaller sizes were the norm, even for purpose-built tool watches like those made for divers. Using a 40mm diameter as our upper limit of “small,” here are 21 small dive watches, in ascending order of price, all of which combine professional-grade water resistance (at least 100 meters) with unisex appeal. Vostok Amphibia Price: $99, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 15mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Vostok Caliber 2416 Th...
Deployant
Here is our hands-on comprehensive review of the new Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF in titanium, launched recently in Watches & Wonders 2023.
Deployant
Hands-on comprehensive review of the new Jaeger-LeCoultra Reverso Tribute Chronograph released recently at Watches & Wonders 2023.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Reviewing the affordable Dryden Heartlander automatic field watch. Read to view hands-on photos, specs, pricing, and more.
Worn & Wound
We’ve got an exciting week of watch news this week for episode 47 of A Week In Watches, including a new integrated sport watch from Christopher Ward called The Twelve (we’ve got hands-on impressions of that watch coming soon), a surprising (in the best possible way) collab from Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin, and even some Pokemon thrown in for good measure. Plus, some incredible new dials from the likes of Monta and Zelos. Catch all this and more in the full episode below. We’re getting some hands-on time with the latest from plenty of brands presenting this weekend at our Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, including The Twelve from Christopher Ward, the newest Monta Noble, and watches from Nivada Grenchen, Autodromo, Zodiac, and more that we’ll be presenting in next week’s episode. At the end of the episode, we answer some of your questions from the comment section! Be sure to leave your comment or question on this video and we’ll answer in a future video. If you’d like to engage with us and the community further, be sure to sign up for our newsletter, which will grant you access to our Worn & Wound+ Slack community. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 47: Integrated Sport Watches, Minty Dials, & Pokemon appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
IWC brings back the iconic Gérald Genta design in a reincarnation of the Ingenieur with a new Automatic 40. We bring you a hands-on comprehensive review.
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer is celebrating the Carrera’s 60th Birthday this year, and doing so, has released the vintage inspired 39mm “Glassbox” Carrera Chronograph at Watches and Wonders. I had the pleasure of going hands on with the watches prior to it’s release, and was quietly impressed! What We Like Great styling and designComfortable and easy to wearSizing hits the mark What We Don’t Like Leather strap could use some additional styling cuesLack of lume on the dialMovement finishing is a step up from the old, but could be better given the price point Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 8/10 No matter what you think about TAG Heuer, it’s hard to argue that they are one of the most recognised luxury watch brands in the world. Synonymous with motorsport, TAG Heuer have helped to shape the modern day chronograph, evolving the Carrera over the six decades since Jack Heuer designed and produced the very first Carrera in 1963. For those keeping track, I was not the biggest fan of TAG Heuer, and wasn’t until I reviewed the 60th Anniversary Edition TAG Heuer Autavia Flyback Chronograph (which you can check out here) around 12 months ago that I started to change my mind. The all new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox” TAG Heuer are having a renaissance of sorts. They are revisiting their roots, heading back to the days of Jack Heuer and what helped to make them the brand they are today. And the new Carrera Chronogra...
Worn & Wound
The wildly popular Timex Q collection welcomes a new, more complicated family this week with the introduction of the Q Three Time Zone Chronograph. The new watch brings a new level of practicality to the 40mm integrated frame with the addition of a 24 hour hand, a 12 hour bezel, and two adjustable hour hands. It might be called the Three Time Zone watch, but thanks to that 12 hour rotating bezel, you could actually track 5 if you really needed to. Timex is encouraging you to hit the open road with this watch, and it’s easy to see why, but we’ve still got a few questions about this one. At a glance, this Timex Q looks to be a pretty straightforward GMT equipped chronograph, not an entirely uncommon function grouping for a quartz module. But the closer you look, the more odd details you’ll begin to notice. Is that second hour hand a GMT hand? If so, why is the bezel a 12 hour unit? There is no am/pm indication in sight, and Timex refers to that hand simply as the “2nd hour hand”. Closer still and you’ll notice that the 24 hour is actually located in the sub dial at 12 o’clock. This is an independently adjustable 24 hour hand that can be used to track home time, while the 1st and second hour hands can track local, and local adjacent (again, no am/pm indication) time zones against the circular hour markers, and a twist of the 12 hour bezel will even let you track an additional two. That’s 5 total by my count, though I’m not sure how practical doing so would...
SJX Watches
Titled Chanel Interstellar, the 2023 watch collection debuted by Chanel was inspired by “science fiction, space and time travel”. The line-up naturally included exotic variations on the J12, but the most impressive timekeeper wasn’t a wristwatch but a desk clock, the Lion Astroclock. Anchored by a lion, the Astroclock is typical Chanel in style. Almost entirely matte black, it has discreet touches of extravagance in the form of brilliant-cut diamonds on the hands, which form the unusual, planetarium-style time display. The lion is a reference to Leo, Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign Initial thoughts Monochromatic, sculptural timekeepers with the occasion gemstone setting, Chanel’s top-of-the-line clocks possess an easy, intrinsic appeal. The Astroclock is no different. At a distance, it probably won’t look particularly interesting on a desk, but up close the refined execution is visible. All the details within the glass sphere – the three-dimensional time display, polished surfaces, and brilliant-cut diamonds – need to be admired up close. With its US$350,000-ish price tag, the Astroclock is probably more expensive than it should be considering the relatively simple L’Epee movement, but it is impressive. Symbolism Clean and entirely in matte black, the Lion Astroclock echoes the styling of the Chronosphere clock of 2018, but with added astronomical elements that reference Coco Chanel. Standing about 35 cm high, the Lion Astroclock is comprised of a base enclosin...
Worn & Wound
One of the most talked about releases this year came courtesy of IWC in the form of a new Ingenieur that takes the watch back to its Gerald Genta design era of history. You can see our hands-on impressions of that watch right here. The new watches take clear inspiration from the 1970s footprint, but offer a quite contemporary execution that won’t be mistaken for anything throwback. But that’s not all people were discussing at their year’s Watches & Wonders, the IWC booth made one of the biggest impressions of the whole fair, setting a funky ‘70s engineering aesthetic against the new watches, which even included a Mercedes C-111 mkIII concept car right in the booth. During our visit to the booth, we ran into IWC CEO (and Worn & Wound Podcast alum) Chris Grainger, who gave us the scoop on the new watches and the booth itself. This watch was a long time coming, as you might imagine, and Chris takes us through some of the development of the design we see today. Oh, and those crown guards? It seems that we’re the only ones that spent any real time stressing about them. See more of our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023 right here, and head over to our YouTube channel for more of our video content. The post In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...
Revolution
At Watches and Wonders 2023, Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution, got his hands on an Alpina Extreme Regulator Automatic, which now comes with an integrated bracelet and blue dial. He discussed this cool novelty with the Brand Director of Alpina, Oliver van Lanschot. Alpina has also released an 888-piece limited edition black dial […]
Revolution
Revolution Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto and Revolution Founder Wei Koh met up with Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe to get a closer look at Hublot’s diverse array of novelties that the brand presented at Watches and Wonders 2023. They got their hands on eye-catching new Hublot timepieces like the Big Bang Integrated Blue Sapphire, Big Bang Integrated […]
Revolution
Discover the French brand Yema together with Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor, at Time To Watches. Founded in 1948, Yema creates off-kilter vintage-inspired dress watches and field watches. Jeremiah had the opportunity to get his hands on popular Yema timepieces like the Yema Rallye 5 Turbo that was inspired by Renault’s 5 Turbo hatch icon […]
Revolution
Revolution Founder Wei Koh and Revolution UK Editor-in-Chief Ross Povey were some of the first people at Watches and Wonders to get their hands on the new Tudor novelties. They had the honor of being led through this exciting collection by Tudor’s Head of Public Relations Christophe Chevalier. The Tudor Black Bay returns in 37mm, […]
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most distinctive of all Radiomir designs, the “California” was nonetheless absent from Panerai’s catalogue for some time. Now it makes a comeback as the Radiomir California PAM01349. Essentially a cooler (and more expensive) version of the new Radiomir “Otto Giorni”, the PAM01349 preserves the signature features of the design, including the dial and blue hands, but works in a few concessions to modern tastes, including a smoked green finish for the dial as a scaled-down, 45 mm case. Initial thoughts The California has long been my favourite Radiomir so I am glad it is making a comeback. While it looks slightly vintage, the PAM01349 is clearly not a vintage reissue, which is a good thing. The combination of a green dial and aged case is an appealing one. However, the PAM01349 costs about 20% more than the Radiomir models with the same movement, a premium that isn’t grounded in any tangible features and thus hard to justify. Romans and Arabics The dial is classic “California” with Roman numerals on its top half and Arabic numbers on the lower half. Originally designed for legibility so each half of the dial is easily distinguishable from the other, the California dial was synonymous with the Radiomir. The PAM01349 preserves the original design, but the texture and colour are contemporary. Like most other recent releases, the dial has a grained surface and smoked finish, both in keeping with current tastes. The dial treatment gives the watch a vin...
WatchAdvice
Last month, Breitling held a very special event for a handful of watch enthusiasts, and Watch Advice was there to get a great hands on experience with the new Top Time line up, and see how this collection with the new B01 movements and new Thunderbird model felt in person, and most importantly, how they sat on the wrist! With less than a week to go until the watch world descends on Geneva, Breitling have dropped a revised line up of their Top Time collection, with new beefed up specs and adding a new model to the muscle car line up – the Ford Thunderbird, to sit alongside the Mustang, Cobra and Corvette. Watch Advice, along with with a handful of passionate collectors had the pleasure of getting under the hood of the new models (yes there will be many car references in this article, so brace yourself!), and testing them out in person. The Breitling Top Time Collection – Left to Right: Ford Thunderbird, Chevrolet Corvette, Ford Mustang & Shelby Cobra “The Top Time represented a break from traditional watch design for a generation that was breaking with convention in every way… We are going after that sense of freedom and fun with the 1960s-inspired Top Time Classic Cars collection”Georges Kern – Breitling ceo The Top Time collection was released in 2021 with three models – the Mustang, Corvette and Cobra. This year, Breitling have introduced the Ford Thunderbird to the collection, and alongside this, dropped a new engine into them with the new in house calibre...
Revolution
The Jacob & Co. Epic SF24 is a watch that is so unapologetically original that it takes the classic world time complication and flips it on its head. Instead of using hands or rotating discs to indicate the 24 major timezones, it utilises a remarkable innovation called the Split-Flap system to display a selected timezone […]
Worn & Wound
Mido had a bonafide hit on their hands in 2020 with Ocean Star Decompression Timer, a colorful skin diver based on the original Ocean Star divers from the 1960s. The brightly colored sectors allow divers to time decompression stops by sight, but for those of us who tend to spend most of our time topside, it was just a fun way to incorporate some color into a style of watch that sometimes veers toward the sober. The viral success of that release (it sold out quickly and seemed to dominate Instagram for a brief period of time) makes it somewhat surprising that Mido hasn’t returned to the format more frequently in the years since, but here we are with what I think many would argue feels like a natural follow up. The Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer takes the colorful sector layout of the Decompression Timer and applies it to another complication altogether. The execution is actually rather simple, even if the dial appears to be extremely complicated. In the dial’s interior, we have the same decompression table as seen in the prior version of the watch. But at the perimeter, Mido has added a 24 hour scale, and instead of a traditional dive bezel, we get a rotating city ring for time indication. Importantly, the bezel maintains a minute scale, with 10 minute intervals marked off in the midst of international cities, which means you could still use this watch as a dive tool if you needed to. The dial is a lot of fun, and if you were drawn to the original, there’s a ...
Hodinkee
After locking down the essentials, I'd spend on undervalued dress watches from Cartier, Breguet, and Lange.
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