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Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Flag – special report after 2 weeks on the wrist
We received a Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Flag review loaner for a fortnight to try out. Here is our report after the 2 weeks as our daily driver.
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Revolution
Introducing the Casio GMW-B5000GD-4
A part of G-SHOCK’s “Rose Gold Ingot Series”, the GMW-B5000GD-4 is a stylish addition to the brand’s diverse lineup that offers Multi-Band 6 Atomic timekeeping, solar powered battery, phone-finder function and more.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Citizen Calibre 0200 Movement
Having explored the Citizen Caliber 0200 last week, we now focus on arguably the most important aspect of the watch – the cal 0200 within. An important achievement for Citizen, the cal. 0200 is the brand’s first high-end automatic movement. The fact that the watch was named after its movement indicates its significance, and also the fact that the watch was constructed around the movement, rather than vice versa. The Caliber 0200 wristwatch is high quality, particularly in the finishing of its case and bracelet. That’s all the more impressive given its US$6,000 price tag, which leaves the best of class in its price segment in terms of finishing and quality. But the Caliber 0200’s merits are all encompassing – its movement is as accomplished as the external components. The cal. 0200 is an all-new, in-house automatic with with the features expected of a modern movement, and a little bit more. Beyond its intrinsic qualities, it is also notable for being a fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking: its development, production, and assembly is done by Citizen in Japan, but with a key contribution from Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret, which makes the base plate and bridges, and helped to refine the movement decoration. The rest of the movement – from development and construction to finishing and assembly – is done by Citizen at its headquarters in Tokyo. In fact, Citizen set up a specialised workshop, the Mechanical Watch Elements Development Department (or ME...
Quill & Pad
RGM Model 600 Chronograph: A Perfect Fit
Joshua Munchow appreciates brands that work hard to build their heritage and carve a niche for themselves with solid daily-wear watches while having fun with the occasional haute horlogerie piece, especially if that brand is an independent. And if it's an American brand that makes its watches out of a small shop in Pennsylvania, all the better. Here Joshua reviews the new RGM Model 600 Chronograph, a robust and affordable chronograph suitable as a daily wearer.
Quill & Pad
Richard Mille And Formula 1: Collaborations Now Span Ferrari, McLaren, Mick Schumacher, Charles Leclerc, Fernando Alonso, Kimi Raikönnen, And Romain Grosjean
As the 2021 Formula 1 season begins, Elizabeth Doerr revisits Richard Mille’s impressive commitment to the sport. The brand now supports two full Formula 1 teams and four high-profile drivers (with a fifth still convalescing after a horrific accident in the 2020 season), including Mick Schumacher. These are partnerships as natural as they come: the premise of Richard Mille’s entire brand is built upon the fact that his watches are “racing machines on the wrist.”
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils a Royal Oak Ensemble in Green
While blue has been the fad for watches for some time, green is recently in vogue, if for no other reason than the endless stream of blue-dial watches. And so the pioneer of the sports-luxury watch has just launched five different Royal Oak models with dials in deep green – the first, but likely not the last, brand to do so this year. The new offerings are actually a trio of three distinct models, with the simplest – and probably the most appealing – being the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a smoked, sunburst green dial that’s exclusive to AP Houses. In contrast, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph in yellow gold, and the Royal Oak Self-winding Tourbillon (in three variants), all feature the familiar tapisserie guilloche. The platinum Jumbo, accompanied by a pair of Flying Tourbillons Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is the luxury sports watch, and it’s one of today’s hottest watches – in practically every variation. When it comes to insatiable demand, even the most minor of variations will be desirable. So the new green dials will certainly amplify the clamour – because the colour is attractive, deep and lustrous – but also because the colour is unusual for the Royal Oak. It’s almost amusing to see the brand’s skill in iterating a 40-year old design by drawing on colours, finishes, and complications to make the Royal Oak attractive in myriad ways. That, of course, builds on a recipe that’s both intrinsically appealing and versatile – ...
Quill & Pad
Death Star Tourbillon By Kross Studio: Star Wars-Themed Central Tourbillon Watch With Rare Kyber Crystal From ‘Rogue One’ Set
Star Wars peeps, this watch is for you! Aside from being a $150,000 watch featuring a central tourbillon in a limited edition of just ten pieces, the Kross Studio Death Star Collector Set comes in an incredible container with one more thing making it irresistible to true Star Wars fans: each watch comes in a set with an authentic kyber crystal film prop from 2016’s 'Rogue One: A Star Wars Story.'
SJX Watches
Omega Ups the Retro with the New Seamaster 300
Introduced in 1957 alongside the Railmaster and Speedmaster as part of the trilogy of “Professional” watches for air, land, and sea, the original Seamaster 300 was Omega’s first true dive watch. Even though the Seamaster Diver now wears the mantle of the brand’s highest-spec dive watch, the vintage-inspired Seamaster 300 stands apart in Omega’s crowded catalogue with its retro aesthetic. For 2021, Omega doubles down on the vintage styling with a facelifted Seamaster 300 that’s closer to the look of the 1950s original. The new model will be available in steel, as well as the unusual proprietary alloy of Bronze Gold. A 1950s brochure for the original trilogy Initial thoughts When I first saw pictures of the new Seamaster 300, my immediate thought: “Absolutely beautiful”. I’ve always had a soft spot for the Seamaster 300, despite it being less of a “professional” watch than the Seamaster Diver. I’m a fan of its vintage aesthetic, especially how it harks back to an important era in Omega history. The new Seamaster 300, with its subtle but significant improvements, is undoubtedly the best version yet (albeit only the second iteration). Compared to its predecessor, the new model has a cleaner, more coherent design. That being said, the abundant faux-aged Super-Luminova is a bit affected. The new Seamaster 300 is being launched in a limited number of options, steel with a blue or black dial, along with the Bronze Gold model. The steel models are also ava...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The all black everything Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black
The fan favourite Omega Seamaster Diver 300m is getting more than a facelift in 2021. That’s right, the watch best known for appearing on the wrist of 007 will now be available in full ceramic in the all-new Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black. And that repetition in the name is for emphasis. This watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The all black everything Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Black Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTERVIEW: Collective™ Horology are reinventing the watch collectors’ club to create truly special collaborations
Watch enthusiasm is initially generated by the product – there’s no doubt that the art of watchmaking and the many resulting creations are the main draw that hooks people in. But what really sustains the hobby, and helps it grow, is the sense of community in watches. Within #watchfam there are many collecting groups dedicated … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: Collective™ Horology are reinventing the watch collectors’ club to create truly special collaborations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: The Citizen Calibre 0200
Citizen is one of the world’s biggest watchmakers, with its timepiece division generating about US$1 billion in sales each year – an output of several hundred million watches and movements annually. That vast manufacturing expertise means Citizen knows how to produce a fine mechanical movement. Now Citizen has finally accomplished it, and installed the movement inside a brilliant new watch. Launched earlier this month, The Citizen Caliber 0200 is equipped with the brand’s first mechanical movement developed from scratch as a high-end calibre (“The Citizen” is the name of the collection, while Caliber 0200 refers to movement as well as this specific model). Although the brand did launch a version of The Citizen with an automatic movement in 2010, the new Caliber 0200 is radically different, and tremendously superior. While the highlight is the new Caliber 0200, the entire watch is executed extremely well. The case and bracelet are outstanding, fabricated and finished so well there is nothing else that comes close in the same price segment. The quality of the watch was apparent in the press photos, which made me want to see it in the metal. I got my hands on a prototype for a couple of days earlier this month, an experience that left me substantially impressed. [Editor’s note: The watch pictured is a prototype, so it does contain a handful of hard-to-spot imperfections.] Initial thoughts On paper, the Caliber 0200 might seem uninteresting, being yet another sp...
Quill & Pad
WatchBox Commentary On Hodinkee Takeover Of Crown & Caliber And State Of The Pre-Owned Market
In 2020/2021, the pre-owned landscape has experienced a seismic shift called consolidation, led by the acquisition of online vintage and pre-owned dealer Analog/Shift by Watches of Switzerland in late 2020 and more recently Hodinkee purchasing Crown & Caliber. Elizabeth Doerr converses with pre-owned watch specialist WatchBox's CEO Justin Reis for views on the Hodinkee takeover and the current pre-owned market.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward C1 Worldglow: The C1 Worldtimer, but brighter?
I mean, how many times are you going to need to know a time zone in the pitch blackness? Unless Carmen Sandiego has stolen all electricity and the sun, you’ll probably be able to track the time for her whereabouts just fine without the extra lume, gumshoe.
Quill & Pad
5 Of The Most Innovative Wristwatches Ever Made – Reprise
Now, please don’t take this title the wrong way: this list is not definitive. Which is why it is not entitled “The 5 Most Innovative Wristwatches Ever Made." This list could have encompassed 15 or even 20 innovative wristwatches! And there are surely differing opinions. However, for Elizabeth Doerr these five timepieces encompass comprehensive parts of what is great about the modern world of wristwatches.
Time+Tide
Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months
If variety is the spice of life, then whoever who signs off on the G-Shock limited-editions must have some extremely tingly tastebuds. The staggering range of influences that inform these pieces is like something out of a Dr Seuss fever dream, happily jumping from Borneo rainbow toads to NASA space travel. The sheer number of … ContinuedThe post Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why Watchmaking Still Matters During A Pandemic – Reprise
If you’re like GaryG, you’ve been spending some time during the current pandemic-driven lockdown monitoring online watch publications, including Quill & Pad, and you’ve likely seen at least a few comments in response to posts that go something like this, “How in the world can you possibly be focused on something like watches at such a terrible time?” Well, Gary is here to tell you.
SJX Watches
Seiko Remakes the Mountaineer’s Watch of 1959
A longtime fan favourite, the modern-day Alpinist is synonymous with a forest-green dial and inner rotating bezel. But the origins of the model date to 1959, when Seiko introduced the first Alpinist as part of the Laurel brand. Today’s Alpinist has evolved a long way from the original, but now Seiko has returned the watch to its roots with a “re-creation” of the 1959 design. The 1959 Alpinist Re-creation is a somewhat faithful remake of the first Alpinist that was conceived as no-frills watch for mountaineers. At the same time, Seiko is also unveiling the simpler and more affordable The 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-interpretation. The vintage original of 1959 Initial thoughts Because it’s very much a mid-20th century design, the Alpinist reissues have a good blend of sportiness and elegance. The round cases are compact, giving them a slightly a dressy feel, but the dials are simple and legible, along with a more-than-capable watch case with substantial water resistance. The best thing about the watch is its design, which is minimalist but not plain. The markers are oversized and slightly decorative, and matched with a minute track that evokes a sector dial. Just 36.6 mm wide, the Re-creation is particularly good looking with its symmetrical layout and deep, glossy black finish. It also avoids the faux-vintage colour palette, resulting in a look that is retro but refreshingly modern. That said, its date window is squeezed between four and five o’clock, which is a l...
Quill & Pad
5 ‘Shrink And Pink’ Watches Highlighting How To Do It Well (None Of Which Are Actually Pink)
“Shrink and pink” is a relatively recent term to describe how watch brands sometimes use a men’s watch as a base for making a timepiece more oriented toward the female consumer. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares five watches whose makers employed the “shrink and pink” tactic so successfully that she would wear them in a heartbeat. And spoiler: none of them are pink.
Time+Tide
A month on the wrist with the Rolex “Pepsi”, the watch that has completely derailed my collecting strategy…
That is if I ever really had one. When it was released in 2018, the Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi Ref. 126710 BLRO quickly cemented itself at the top of my wish list, grail list, things-I’d-kill-for-to-own list (you get the picture). It remained firmly in the realm of dreams until recently when I decided to bite the bullet … ContinuedThe post A month on the wrist with the Rolex “Pepsi”, the watch that has completely derailed my collecting strategy… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Zodiac to Partner with Candy Companies for Limited Edition Bezel Colorways
“By this time next year, we’ll expand even further into the junk food franchises… get ready for the Pink Starburst Seawolf. The Astropop. The Count Chocula GMT… Ecto Cooler… The Hamburglar… Cool Ranch Doritos… iconic names for iconic color sets.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Twenty~4: Complete Overview Of Two Decades Of Timeless Elegance
Versatility was at the top of Patek Philippe’s thoughts when the firm designed the Twenty~4. The goal was to achieve “a beautiful expression of today's contemporary woman” by creating a watch that can accompany women all day long. Hence the “24” in its name. Martin Green takes us through 20+ years of this now-iconic pillar collection.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition soars with a distinctive olive green dial
The pilot’s watch category is one of the most popular segments in the watch industry. With the number of pilot’s watches on the market, each new novelty has to be that much more strategic to figure out how to capture the hearts of buyers. To stand out, you have to be true to the design … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition soars with a distinctive olive green dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
One Woman’s View Of What Women Want In Watches
Every woman – nay, every person – is different. Which means their needs and wants will be different. All Elizabeth Doerr can do is tell you about her own experience with watches. But perhaps the most important thing of all to know is that any watch is a woman’s watch if a woman is wearing it.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED WATCHING: 3 reasons why watches are so horribly expensive
When one of your non-watch friends asks how much your watch cost, they’ll probably be shocked or straight up appalled that anyone could spend thousands, never mind tens of thousands of dollars on something that tells the time “just like your phone”. So how do you explain the reason why watches are so horribly expensive? … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: 3 reasons why watches are so horribly expensive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold is a watch that demands attention
Editor’s note: Andrew walked through the door of the Time+Tide office one afternoon in February and looked down at his wrist. “It’s a watch that can wear you if you’re not careful,” he said, gaze still fixed on the Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold that he was wearing. A strong statement from a man … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Hublot Big Bang Integral King Gold is a watch that demands attention appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Women’s History Month: 4 Fascinating Horological Stories About Women In Watchmaking
"The watch industry today would be nothing without women," Elizabeth Doerr notes as the majority of watchmaker benches in watch factories are “manned” by women. Women were also responsible for the very first wristwatches; the world's first doctorate in horology went to a woman (Dr. Rebecca Struthers); and the now-safe lume glowing on your watch came about thanks to the dangerous (and deadly) work of both Marie Curie and the Radium Girls.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Unveils an Affordable ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel Time-Only
Best known recently for its collaborations with independent watchmakers – the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter sold out in a matter of hours – Louis Erard has been gaining recognition for making the style of high-end watchmaking affordable. Continuing with that focus, the brand has just announced the Excellence Email Grand Feu, a time-only wristwatch with a traditional enamel dial in a striking ivory hue. The grand feu, or fired-in-an-oven, enamel dial is fairly difficult to manufacture, resulting in a rejection rate that’s often over half. As a result, such dials are usually only found in high-end watches. It’s Louis Erard’s first use of a fired enamel dial, but true to form, the brand has retained its usual pricing positioning with a retail price of under 4,000 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts Given the frequent enthusiast gripe that watch prices (or values) border on the absurd, it would seem that true value propositions are hard to come by. There are a few exceptions – Tudor, Longines, and a few independents for instance – with Louis Erard increasingly being one of them. The brand offers an honest product, often with one or two elements historically found only in haute horlogerie, for not so much money. The Excellence Email Grand Feu is exactly that. And the dial is particularly appealing in ivory, instead of the usual bright white that is the favoured colour for fired enamel. Notably, the dial is made by Donzé Cadrans, the well-known enamel dial maker ...
Deployant
Chronoswiss returns to roots with the new skeleton Opus Chronograph Flag
Chronoswiss releases a new skeletonised Opus Chronograph Flag is an updated edition of a true Chronoswiss classicin accents of blue, white and red.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs
Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...
Quill & Pad
Baselworld Retrospective: Chronicling 102 Years From 1917 To 2019
More than a century of history of Baselworld, the world’s biggest and most comprehensive watch fair, is virtually impossible to sum up in just a few lines. However, that is what Elizabeth Doerr does here as she looks back over 102 years of Baselworld history and reflects on what happens next. Hopefully that is, "Pack your bags for Houruniverse 2021."