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Deployant
The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. 3716), one of IWC’s most popular models, is newly equipped in the standard version with the IWC in-house 69355 calibre and a see-through sapphire-glass back. This year's new colors include a green sunburst and red sunburst dial.
SJX Watches
A tourbillon is not uncharted waters for Seiko, as evidenced by the Credor Fugaku Tourbillon of 2016. The extremely rare, and modestly unattractive, Fugaku was something of a statement, as much about its ornate case and dial as the mechanics. Now an independent brand after being spun off from its parent, Grand Seiko has just announced a movement that squarely emphasises on timekeeping, the T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon. Announced as a concept movement – with no plans for commercialisation publicly revealed – the movement is Grand Seiko’s first equipped with a tourbillon, and also marks the first time Seiko or any of its brands is utilising a constant-force mechanism. The T0 disassembled Initial thoughts It is not often Grand Seiko launches a new and truly novel movement; this year has seen a few. The recent 9RA5 Spring Drive and the 9SA5 Hi-Beat automatic are interesting and practical movements that will be found in future models. On the other hand, the T0 tourbillon stakes a claim of technical prowess oriented rather than practicality, a claim bolstered by the remontoir constant-force mechanism integrated in the tourbillon cage. While Grand Seiko’s integrated remontoir constructed is patented, this is not exactly novel. Precedents in the watches of IWC and Andreas Strehler, for instance. While each of these executed the idea of an integrated constant force differently, all share the common approach of a one-second remontoir. In short, the Grand Seiko construc...
Deployant
Grand Seikoa adds to their 60th Anniversary Limited Editions with the SBGR321, vivid blue dial inspired by the brilliant sky over Mt. Iwate at dawn.
SJX Watches
Sinn’s latest limited edition commemorates two events – one inextricably linked to the other. The overarching theme of the U1 DE is the 30th anniversary of the reunification of Germany, explaining the dial done in the colours of the German flag. Without German reunification, the second event would have been impossible – the partnership between Sinn and case maker SUG (short for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH Glashütte), which is based in the watchmaking town of Glashütte in the former East Germany. Headquartered in Frankfurt, Sinn first began working with SUG in 1999, before taking a majority stake after the 2002 floods inundated Europe and hit SUG hard. Initial thoughts The U1 is a likeable watch because it is affordable, incredibly robust, and solidly functional. Though it is a large 44 mm, the U1 does not feel as big as it measures. Its only downside is the Sellita SW200-1 movement within, which suffers from a short 38-hour power reserve. The U1 DE isn’t that much different from the standard all-black U1. Essentially it’s a little different on the dial and hands, along with the extra-large Sinn and SUG logos on the back – which really look too big. Ordinarily, limited edition iterations of standard watches are not interesting. But the U1 is an excellent watch, and the U1 DE doesn’t cost that much more than the standard version; the premium is about 15%. That’s a fair deal for something that looks different, while still retaining the no-nonsense st...
SJX Watches
While best known for its mechanical aviator’s chronographs, Breitling has a diverse history of quartz watches for professionals, most notably the multi-function Aerospace and the Emergency with a built-in distress beacon. The latest in Breitling’s range of quartz instrument watches is the sporty and casual Endurance Pro. The quintet of watches share the same black dial and carbon composite case, but with the dial flange and strap in five bold colours. While the colours are fun, the utility of the watch is taken care of with a chronograph and bidirectional rotating bezel that can be used as a solar compass. Initial thoughts As a sports watch, the Endurance Pro gets many elements right. For one, it is notably lightweight despite its large size. The case is made of Breitlight, an proprietary carbon composite – carbon fibres within a polymer – that is three times lighter than titanium, making it unobtrusive on the wrist. Second, while mechanical movements have more appeal for enthusiasts, a quartz calibre more practical for a sports watch. Compared with a balance wheel, a quartz oscillator is less susceptible to external influences such as shock, magnetism, and orientation. And a quartz sports watch is convenient, it can be picked up and worn right away, with no winding or adjustment necessary. Even though the Endurance Pro is the most affordable quartz watch made by Breitling (and also its lowest-priced men’s watch), the price tag is still US$3,000, which is exp...
SJX Watches
A year after the debut of the Erwin LAB01 in bronze, which sold out swiftly, Massena Lab has discreetly launched the followup. Announced only to “friends and family” via email, the Erwin LAB02 retains the familiar “sector” dial, but in a two-tone rose gold and silver finish. As with the first instalment, the LAB02 is made by Habring2 and designed by Massena Lab, a watch-creation studio founded by industry insider William Rohr. Initial thoughts Habring2 are always excellent value, and the Erwin LAB02 has the added appeal of having been designed by Mr Rohr, a veteran watch collector. Though the design is not novel – it is based on a vintage Patek Philippe – the look is extremely appealing, and it has been executed with a careful attention to detail, as evidenced by the textures of the dial for instance. While the original edition sold out in an instant, the LAB02 is a low-key launch, with the watches being delivered over a period of months, which makes it easier to land one. So it is accessible not just in price – a bit under US$6,500 – but availability, a useful thing when it comes to small-run limited editions. Vintage inspiration The new Erwin models itself on a 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 that had a similar, dual-colour dial. Illustrated Mr Rohr’s well-honed eye for detail, the dial of the Erwin is not just made up of twin colours, but also two surface finishes. The rose gold-plated chapter ring has a fine, concentric pattern, while the si...
Deployant
Hands-on, detailed review of the F. Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE - an epic new watch with fusée-chain with a remontoir d’égalité, in a 3 handed dial layout.
SJX Watches
Endowed with an unmistakable aesthetic, the Breguet Tradition is based on the souscription calibre made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796. Arguably the pioneer with the open-dial design that exposes the movement, the Tradition’s construction allows for creativity even with basic complications, like a retrograde seconds for instance. The new Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 continues with the overarching theme of the line. Based on the Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097, the 7597 does away with the seconds display and instead installed an oversized retrograde date complication. Initial thoughts I find the Tradition aesthetic unique and charming, thanks to the characteristic, exposed movement construction that can seem haphazardly arranged at times. Despite the angular and geometric shapes of the bridges, most of them are trapezoidal in shape with few parallel edges, bestowing a more organic appearance to the highly mechanical appearance. While a conventional date window is mundane, the retrograde date elevates the complication both visually and mechanically. Retrograde displays are often encountered in Breguet watches – something that started with A.-L. Breguet himself – and are typically done well, both stylistically and technically. The Tradition 7597 is, in short, an attractively designed watch that sticks to Breguet’s tradition strengths in design and mechanics, while offering a useful complication executed in an elegant manner. Tradition restyled The 759...
SJX Watches
Typically offered with a familiar guilloche dial, Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch has been facelifted with a polished, mineral stone dial. Equipped with glossy, black onyx dial featuring pink-gold hour markers, the Laureato Infinity Edition is a limited edition in two case sizes for men and women respectively. Initial thoughts The luxury-sports watch category is populated by many similar watches, driven by the popularity of the Gerald Genta-designed segment leaders, which are arguably the definitive sports watches with integrated bracelets and blue dials. Few watches manage to differentiate themselves; even the standard Laureato blends in. The Laureato Infinity Edition manages to be different without trying too hard, while also being priced reasonably. The combination isn’t imaginative but it works well. The dial is a glossy black, matched with contrasting hour markers in pink gold, and markings in powdered-silver print – a combination that is clean, classic, but also different from its peers. The only odd element of the design are the rhodium-plated hands, which are probably highly legible, but don’t match the colour of the hour markers. Arguably the only weakness are the in-house movements. Both are robust, reliable calibres that have been around for decades, but they lack many of the upgrades found in newer movements, most notably a longer power reserve. The standard Laureato is already a well priced watch. The Infinity Edition sticks to that formula ...
Hodinkee
A new limited-edition Submersible with a black dial and blue ceramic bezel insert.
SJX Watches
Well regarded for offering strong value, the Seiko Presage has seen a proliferation of variations in dial styles, ranging from stamped patterns to high-end materials like fired enamel and porcelain. The diversity of dials continues with the Presage Sharp Edged Series. The new quartet of watches all feature a dial decorated with a repeating motif inspired by a traditional Japanese leaf pattern. But as the model name suggests, the new watches also boast a new case design that, with the use of edges and angles, creates the play between light and shadow – an attempt, in other words, to give the Presage a more upscale case finish. Initial thoughts The new Presage is slightly pricier than earlier models, but boasts several smart details that set it apart. Both the case and dial have been refined as compared to previous generations. The case has slightly more elaborate finishing, while the dial is decorated with a stamped pattern that catches the light nicely. And that continues right down to details like the the applied markers and date window frame. All of that makes it a value buy at US$1,000, though the higher price tag means it is not as much of a screaming deal as its predecessors. Refined case lines At first glance, the angular case with its wide lugs is reminiscent of the 44GS case, perhaps is the most recognisable Grand Seiko case design. However, the Presage Sharp Edged is not merely Grand Seiko “lite”. With a contrasting brushed top on the lugs, the watch looks s...
Revolution
H. Moser & Cie. CEO, Edouard Meylan talks to us about their Streamliner line of watches, launched earlier in 2020 as a chronograph, powered by the incredible Agengraph. And now the newest addition to the line, the time-only Streamliner Centre Seconds with a Matrix Green dial.
SJX Watches
A comic strip populated by quirky characters, Moomin is the creation of the late Finnish artist Tove Jansson. The long-running comic marks its 75th anniversary in 2020, and is marking the occasion with a limited edition wristwatch created by Finnish watchmaker S.U.F Helsinki, the more affordable brand started by independent watchmaker Stephan Sarpaneva, who is best known for his moon phase watches. The Sarpaneva x Moomin watch features a skeletonised dial depicting a central character from the comic, Moomintroll, amidst a pastoral landscape. While the dial is monochromatic during the day, it dazzles up at night as a result of the Technicolour Super-Luminova that’s been painted by hand. Initial thoughts The glow-in-the-dark dial is whimsical and striking, even for someone unfamiliar with the comic. And it is presented in an appealing pacakge. S.U.F typically offers excellent case quality, and here the whole has been boosted by the complex open working of the dial, a feature that is typically found on pricier Sarpaneva watches. And inside is a Soprod A10, a tried-and-tested movement from a widely-known maker, which means servicing will be easy. For €5,000, or about US$5,900, the Moomin wristwatch is a compelling, fun purchase, especially since it is a small run of just 75 watches. Though it costs double the base-model S.U.F watch with the same case and movement, the hand-painted “lume” dial is a surprisingly intricate bit of work for a relatively affordable watch. D...
Time+Tide
Cam Wolf of GQ has made yet another great watchspot in his latest “Watches of the Week” column. Cam spots Joe Biden wearing an Omega Seamaster 300M with a black dial on his wrist during the Democratic National Convention. As Cam explains, this is not the only Omega Mr Biden owns – as he has also … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Joe Biden’s watch called “the perfect foil to Trump” by GQ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When we first caught wind that Longines was going to be releasing a totally new collection in 2020, we were very excited. They are a brand with a number of strongly performing collections that could easily see them sitting on their haunches, simply tweaking the recipe of their success with different dial variations, but they … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Spirit collection range review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Gravity Equal Force marks the official beginning of a new direction at Armin Strom: with its advent the brand also launched a new collection, System 78, which builds an entry-level core on innovation and a more refined design sensibility. After the stunning success of the introductory stainless steel model, Armin Strom now offers the Gravity Equal Force in a luxurious and classic pink gold combined with black dial elements.
Time+Tide
Watching Andrew in the Virtual Baselworld 2020 recap I had a deep understanding of the distracted description of the glacial blue degradè dial of the Sixties pieces from Glashütte Original. Today I’m quietly drawn to something that is so far removed from my vintage diver tool-tastes that I am genuinely surprised. Glashütte Original is the independent … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original SeaQ – a 39.5mm dive watch with a diamond bezel? Sorry, what? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Nomos Glashütte is synonymous with casual fun, and the Saxon company has not disappointed with its Ahoi Atlantik, an awesome summer dive watch with a dark blue dial. And check out these lively original photos while you're waiting to get into the pool!
Deployant
Jaquet Droz updates its Grande Seconde Off-Centered Chronograph with a new Black Onyx dial and it looks exceptional. Perhaps not the most sought after brand in today's obsession with brand equity and residual value, Jaquet Droz provides another proposition in the line of its products. The monopusher chronograph with retrograde date is one such timepiece.
SJX Watches
Originally a series of highly-complicated, extra-large watches for men, the Royal Oak Concept line up has grown to include a handful of women’s watches, including the brand-new and extremely striking Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon. Powered by a hand-wound tourbillon movement, the Royal Oak Concept for women combines the traditional, faceted Concept with the granular Frosted Gold finish conceived by an Italian jeweller for Audemars Piguet, along with a distinctive new dial style of stacked, concentric rings. Initial thoughts When this arrived in my inbox I was quite taken by the styling. Thanks to the shapes and simple finishes, the dial and hands have a clean geometric style that works surprisingly well with the angular Concept case. And the tourbillon serves a higher, aesthetic purpose, with the cage continuing the concentric-ring motif of the dial. With the men’s Concept watches being so large they don’t really fit well on most wrists (especially due to the integrated strap), the women’s Concept at 38.5 mm in diameter probably sits well on most wrists, male or female. Given AP’s mastery of case finishing and the typically high quality of its dials, I expect the watch will be gorgeous in real life. But also given AP’s aggressively high pricing for its watches, I expect this watch to be extremely expensive (prices were not available at press time). Stepped rings The most unusual feature of the new watch is the dial design, a first for the Roy...
Deployant
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe model now comes in a version combining a blue dial and bezel with a Sedna® gold case.
SJX Watches
In 1816, Louis Moinet accomplished a first in watchmaking: a timepiece that could precisely track elapsed time. Measuring periodicity on demand had been accomplished before, but the French watchmaker’s invention gave it the functionality and exactness that we expect today. In assessing prototypes, we often tend to forgive their shortcomings and rosily reminisce, rewriting flaws as charms. Moinet’s timepiece, however, was a prescient opus. The layout of the dial had the now-familiar large central hand and elapsed time in subdials. Two pushers controlled the start, stop and reset functions, the power reserve lasted over 30 hours, and the mainspring could be wound while the timing mechanism was engaged to allow for longer timing runs. Most impressive, though, was its precision. Louis Moinet’s compteur de tierces of 1816. Image – Louis Moinet Named the compteur de tierces, or “timer of thirds”, Moinet’s invention ran at 216,000 beats per hour, measuring time down to one-sixtieth of a second. To allow for this ambitious exactitude to be utilised, the central chronograph hand completed revolutions once per second – such that the user could easily see which sixtieth of a second the period in question ended on - and the watch had an extra sub-dial for tracking elapsed seconds in addition to those for the minutes and hours. Whys and wherefores An impressive story, except that it’s missing something. Why did Moinet build it? And what did he use it to measure? A...
Quill & Pad
For the Hermès Arceau Harnais Français Remix, Hermès’ watch designers found inspiration in a pair of beautifully harnessed horses that formed the centerpiece of a silk scarf designed by Hugo Grykar, who served as the brand's in-house designer from the 1940s until 1959. The dial is engraved Limoges porcelain painstakingly decorated with colorful oven-fired enamel. And the result is a wearable work of art!
Quill & Pad
Sabine Zwettler likes the flair of Norqain, a young, innovative brand bringing a fresh impulse by respecting the traditional values of the industry in general and Swiss codes in particular. She finds reading the time on this brand-new watch's unusual green dial with its charming scratches a real pleasure. What do you think?
Deployant
Audemars Piguet releases 3 new versions of the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph in black ceramic case, black dial and a textured rubber strap.
WatchAdvice
Earlier in February this year, Raymond Weil unveiled the latest edition in their Freelancer collection. The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 is now available in a green version. Raymond Weil has previously released the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in different colour variants, which include; blue dial, black dial, rose-gold edition and a black dial with rose gold indices and hands. So what makes the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 model unique to Raymond Weil? It all comes down to the movement used to create this timepiece. Before the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 came along, Raymond Weil used all outsourced movements in their watches. That was until back in 2017, when Raymond Weil created an exclusive in-house movement in collaboration with Sellita. Sellita, as many may know, is the Swiss movement manufacturer that makes movements for brands around the world. The development team at Raymond Weil worked together with the designers at Sellita for a period of roughly 18-months, to come up with Raymond Weil’s first in-house movement. Although not entirely in-house, it is still quite a feat for one of the few remaining watch companies that are still family-owned since their establishment. To mark this momentous occasion for the brand, with the movement being a testament to over 40 years of beautiful Swiss watch-making traditions and expertise, Raymond Weil decided to name the calibre after the brand’s Swiss origins. The 1212 in the movement’s name refers back to the postal code of Ray...
Hodinkee
Gold and platinum on a black urushi lacquer dial.
SJX Watches
With Baselworld 2020 cancelled and then some, Patek Philippe has been progressively rolling out its new launches, including a trio of “Grand Complications” in mid July (and hints of a brand-new complication at the end of the year). All three new complications are variants of existing models, with the crowd favourite being the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The new ref. 5370P-011 has a blue grand feu enamel dial and replaces the original, black-dial model that made its debut in 2015 as the ref. 5370P-001. The ref. 5370P-011 The cal. CHR 29-535 PS Initial thoughts The only thing new about this version of the ref. 5370 versus the first-generation model is the colour of the enamel dial. So everything that was good about the original model (classical design, dial and case quality, movement aesthetics), remain good. Needless to say, so do the weaknesses (mismatched finish on seconds hand, details of movement decoration). The balance assembly Though not a dress watch, the original ref. 5370 was dressed in black-tie colours of black and silver that gave it a stately bearing, but also a slightly old-fashioned feel. With the enamel dial in blue – it’s a gentle, muted blue – the new ref. 5370 looks more modern and casual, which is a good thing if you’re looking for something less formal. The outside Though a large 41 mm in diameter, the case of the ref. 5370 reproduces the proportions of the ref. 1436, a split-seconds chronograph that was in production from ...
Hodinkee
A new dial for one of the core references from CFB.
Deployant
After 2018's salmon-dial winner, Patek Philippe presents the latest variant of the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270, this time in yellow gold.
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