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Insight: The Chronograph Reset Mechanism SJX Watches
Breitling B01 movement Feb 3, 2025

Insight: The Chronograph Reset Mechanism

Continuing with our series focused on the mechanical chronograph – we already explained the vertical and horizontal chronograph clutches, along with the advantages and shortcomings of each – we now turn to another vital component but rarely discussed: the chronograph reset mechanism. While the clutch enables energy transmission between the base movement and chronograph, it plays no role in returning the chronograph indicators to a zeroed position. This is accomplished by an altogether separate mechanism that is synchronised with the clutch action but functions independently. The reset mechanism indexes all the chronograph indicators (hours, minutes, and seconds) back to the zero position, and keeping them securely in place until the chronograph is started once again. Any reset mechanism generally comprises of two main components: a heart cam and reset hammer. The two interact based on clever geometry and illustrates mathematics is often the underlying basis of watchmaking, or more specifically, movement construction. The chronograph works of a Breitling B01 movement, with the reset heart cams (12, 13, and 17) in purple. Image – Breitling patent The heart cam Named after its distinctive outline, the heart cam is a seemingly simple component that is in fact the product of some ingenious engineering. While the cam has a turning axis and is a rotational system – in other words, it revolves on a fixed axis – a clear analogy can be made with linear systems. In order to...

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Ulysse Nardin Taps Designer Amoureuxpeintre for a Minimalist Skeleton SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Taps Designer Amoureuxpeintre Jan 30, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Taps Designer Amoureuxpeintre for a Minimalist Skeleton

A monochromatic reinterpretation of Ulysse Nardin’s skeleton watch with a prominent “X”, the Blast “Amoureuxpeintre” is a collaboration with Vsevolod “Sever” Cherepanov, a Kyrgyz streetwear designer also known as Amoureuxpeintre who was one of the first to use augmented reality prints on fabric. Restrained and minimalist, the new Blast has a 42 mm sandblasted titanium case and an unusual frosted sapphire dial that partially hides the skeletonised “X” movement, leaving the calibre only faintly visible. According to Ulysse Nardin, the artist drew inspiration for the design from frosted glass panels found in offices. Initial thoughts Renowned for pioneering silicon components in mechanical watchmaking with its groundbreaking Freak, Ulysse Nardin has made some odd design choices in recent years, including the decision to make the letter “X” a centrepiece of its designs. The collaboration with Amoureuxpeintre hides the “X” and transforms the Blast case into something low-key with its all-black finish, and the result is a surprisingly different, and appealing watch. Styling aside, the latest Blast is typical Ulysse Nardin in terms of mechanics, which is to say accomplished. Although the Blast collection does not share the same status or historical significance of the Freak, it still demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to contemporary horology with a high-spec, in-house movement that has all of its regulator – hairspring, balance, escape, and pal...

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Autodromo Introduces the Monoposto Mobil 1 Edition Worn & Wound
Breitling clocks Jan 28, 2025

Autodromo Introduces the Monoposto Mobil 1 Edition

From Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco to Breitling clocks in Bentley GTs, there’s simply no denying how inextricably linked cars and wristwatches are. The mechanical artistry exhibited in both of their productions demonstrates how creativity and engineering can produce incredible pieces of technology with a hint of style and flair. Autodromo––a watch brand inspired by the history and allure of the automotive industry––is set to release a limited-edition variant of their Monoposto timepiece in collaboration with Mobil 1 to celebrate the company’s 50th anniversary of their synthetic motor oil. Limited to 100 pieces for the stainless-steel variant and 50 pieces for the gold tone variant, this model is the first re-issue of the original three-hand Monoposto produced by Autodromo in 2012.  Let’s start off with the Mobile 1 Edition’s specs. Both steel and gold tone cases have a rather large 43mm diameter, employing the design principles utilized in “the oversized dashboard gauges of 1950s ‘monopostos’ or single seater racing cars,” according to Autodromo. The watch’s wire lugs support 20mm handmade Italian buffalo leather straps fitted with stainless roller buckles. Powering the piece is the dependable Miyota 9039, an automatic 24-jewel movement with hacking and hand winding, beating at a solid 4 Hz with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The movement can be admired through the exhibition caseback featuring Mobil 1 branding and other informatio...

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Beaucroft Teams with Bristol Based Artist Penfold on a Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Elliot Brown Isotope Jan 27, 2025

Beaucroft Teams with Bristol Based Artist Penfold on a Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day

On March 9th, 2024, the inaugural British Watchmakers’ Day occurred in Westminster, London, England. Organized by the Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, this event was celebrated as the premier watch gathering in the U.K. More than 40 brands participated, including Christopher Ward, Elliot Brown, Isotope, and even Roger W. Smith. The event was by all accounts a success, so it’s no surprise that a second event has been scheduled for Saturday, March 8th. One of the 2024  exhibitors was Beaucroft, based in Cambridge. Our very own Garrett Jones had a hands-on experience with their Forest Green Element watch in December 2024, and he enjoyed it. For this year’s British Watchmakers’ Day event, Beaucroft has collaborated with Bristol-based artist Tim Gresham, known as Penfold, to create the Penfold Special Edition watch. Penfold’s portfolio includes abstract paintings, screen printing, large-scale murals, and immersive installations. He has exhibited in galleries worldwide and collaborated with iconic brands. His influences range from skateboard graphics and Memphis-style furniture to artists like Tom Wesselmann and Eduardo Paolozzi from the Pop Art movement and contemporary figures like MOMO and KAWS. Based on their Element platform, the matte-finished white dial provided a blank canvas for Penfold to showcase his artwork. Apart from the rehaut and hands, the rest of the design is Penfold’s creation. From the supplied images, the airbrushed design elements app...

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Ming Introduces the 37.09 Uni SJX Watches
Ming Jan 24, 2025

Ming Introduces the 37.09 Uni

Ming has unveiled the 37.09 Uni, the latest addition to its line of dive watches. Sharing the same architecture as its predecessor-the 37.09 Bluefin, the “Uni” has a black-and-orange aesthetic along with 600 m of water resistance. According to Ming, the livery of the 37.09 Uni takes inspiration from the sea urchin, uni in Japanese. The watch features a DLC-coated stainless steel case and an orange scaled on the inner sapphire dial that measures elapsed time. Initial thoughts I appreciate the distinctive Ming aesthetic with its signature flared lugs and minimalist here. Here it’s combined with a sapphire dial and subtle orange accents, and the result is appealing. The 37.09 Uni, however, costs CHF5,250, which is steep price tag for what it is. Although the overall execution is elaborate, it’s still a micro-brand dive watch equipped with an inexpensive (albeit customised) Sellita movement. While there was a moment during the pandemic where micro-brand offerings somehow made sense at various points of the price spectrum, due in part to the unavailability of everything else, but that time has passed. For Ming fans, the new diver is an appealing watch, but for everyone else there are alternatives. Uni Designed in the familiar Ming style, the DLC-coated stainless steel case is compact at 38 mm in diameter, though it has the height of a dive watch at 12.8 mm in thickness. Entirely matte brushed, the case sports a stepped bezel and domed sapphire crystal. Two oversized c...

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TAG Heuer Unveils their Latest Edition of the Chronosprint, an Unusual Chronograph Celebrating Porsche Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Unveils their Latest Edition Jan 23, 2025

TAG Heuer Unveils their Latest Edition of the Chronosprint, an Unusual Chronograph Celebrating Porsche

TAG Heuer has re-teamed with Porsche for a follow up to one of their most popular collaborations of the last few years. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye builds on the success of 2023’s TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, evolving the watch with a new dial and a few other changes to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Porsche 911’s early success at the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. The big selling point of the Chronosprint, which is based on the visual format established by the ‘Glassbox’ Carrera introduced in 2023, is the unique implementation of its chronograph. Where a traditional chronograph’s sweep seconds hand will move around the dial at an even pace, the Chronosprint’s chronograph hand jumps off the starting line, sweeping across a third of the dial in 9(.1) seconds, before slowing down over the next 49.9 seconds to cross the minute mark at, well, a minute, before speeding up again. It’s one of the rare watches I’ve encountered in recent memory that feels like it offers a genuinely unique take on what is otherwise a pretty standard complication. For the most part, this year’s Chronosprint is the same watch Zach introduced 18 months ago, save for a handful of aesthetic changes, inspired by the Porsche 911 “147” used for the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. Foremost among these is that this year’s Chronosprint drops the silvered dial of the last model in favor of what TAG Heuer is calling a “Black Shimmery” dial. Basically, ...

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Audemars Piguet Opens AP House Singapore SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Opens AP House Singapore Jan 22, 2025

Audemars Piguet Opens AP House Singapore

Audemars Piguet has just opened the doors of the first AP House in Singapore, situated in the Bar and Billiard Room of the historic Raffles Hotel. Opened in 1887, the Raffles is one of the grand hotels of Asia, having reopened in 2019 with only suites. Part of the hotel since the 19th century, the Bar and Billiard Room was until recently a restaurant, but its 1,000 m2, or almost 11,000 ft², is now home to an AP boutique, lounge, restaurant, and cafe all rolled into one. The latest AP House brings the total number of “houses” around the world to over 20, with other locations including Hong Kong, London, Los Angeles, Milan, New York, Shanghai, and Tokyo. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s home in Le Brassus and its surrounding natural beauty, the space also incorporates the distinctive flair of Singapore, including large panels made from trunks of the rain tree, a familiar sight around Singapore. Notably, AP House Singapore is home to the first-ever AP Café, which serves a menu that is Swiss but “reimagined through a Singaporean lens”, including Chicken Rice Club Sandwich and Gula Melaka Pain Suisse. “Designed to feel like a refined home, [AP House Singapore is] a haven where watch enthusiasts, newcomers, travellers, and anyone seeking a distinctive experience can gather, says Stefanie Ng, chief executive of Audemars Piguet South-East Asia, “Our doors are always open.” The AP Cafe Panels of rain tree wood decorate the walls AP House Singapore is also a sh...

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First Look – The new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton (incl. Video) Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Jan 21, 2025

First Look – The new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton (incl. Video)

The Defy Skyline is Zenith’s answer to the trend of elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets. Introduced in 2022, it has become one of the pillars of the brand’s collections. With its octagonal case and dodecagonal bezel, its design is a modern nod to the 1969 Defy. The Defy Skyline chronograph joined the lineup in […]

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Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre. The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel. Initial thoughts Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough). That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value. Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably...

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First Look – The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Jan 20, 2025

First Look – The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One

The L.U.C Lunar One was Chopard’s first calendar and astronomy complication. Unveiled in 2005, the model combines a perpetual calendar and a precision orbital moon phase display in a rotating aperture. Twenty years later, Chopard revisits its L.U.C Lunar One with a more compact basin-style case, a trimmer, more legible dial decorated with hand-guilloché in […]

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Introducing – New Editions of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton 39mm and 42mm Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton 39mm Jan 15, 2025

Introducing – New Editions of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton 39mm and 42mm

Maurice Lacroix has long been known for its take on accessible luxury, offering nice horological content at decent prices. Back in 2018, ML presented the Aikon Automatic collection, a wide range of models that answered the growing demand for elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets – by using the 1990s Calypso design and remodelling it, […]

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Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC Fratello
VPC Time flies when you’re Jan 15, 2025

Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC

Time flies when you’re having fun! It has been a full two years since I set off on an adventure to build my dream watch, the VPC Type 37HW. Fratello offered me the fantastic opportunity to chronicle and share the journey with you all. Today, after having fulfilled all preorders, I would like to finish […] Visit Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC to read the full article.

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Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces Jan 14, 2025

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite

Something we’ve learned about the Speedmaster over the years is that it can be, quite literally, anything. The Speedy is effectively a brand unto itself, with watches in the collection that strike just about every note possible in watchmaking. There are traditional vintage inspired Speedmasters, modern and tactical Speedmasters, Speedmasters with a jewelry focus, Speedmasters that exist to display Omega’s prowess in chronometry, and Speedmasters that are overtly obsessed with NASA and space exploration. There are even plastic Speedmasters and Speedmasters with Snoopy on the dial (which of those Speedys is made for children is an open question). Speedys come in all sizes, are made in every metal imaginable (plus some not-metals), and, even though Speedmasters are, if nothing else, chronographs, they’ve been made with a whole bunch of other complications as well. This is all just to say that in the world of Speedmasters, it’s hard to be surprised in 2025. So when Omega began teasing a new Speedy on social media recently and the guessing game began, every suggestion seemed possible.  Today, Omega announced the new Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite, a 43mm stainless steel Speedy with a meteorite dial (in two finishes) and double moonphase display at 6:00. It also features a new caliber capable of displaying the correct moonphase for both the northern and southern hemispheres.  This isn’t the first time Omega has incorporated meteorite into a Speedmaster. My personal ...

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WatchCheck Seeks to Redefine What it Means to Service a Watch Worn & Wound
Jan 14, 2025

WatchCheck Seeks to Redefine What it Means to Service a Watch

It probably goes without saying that here at Worn & Wound we think watch collecting is a rewarding hobby that if approached in the right way can bring you a lot of happiness over the course of many years. And unlike, say, tennis, there’s very little risk of injury. And unlike a pursuit like car collecting, you won’t need to buy a separate parcel of real estate to store your collection, unless you happen to be John Mayer (allegedly). And in our opinion it’s an easy hobby to recommend because you can get deep into it without spending a fortune, and we also happen to know there’s a great community of like-minded enthusiasts out there who can provide support, advice, and general expertise along the way. But it’s not all sunshine and daisies. Oh no, not at all. Eventually, the time will come when you need to send a watch in for service, and this is the point where enthusiasts are either made or perhaps run away from watches, never to return.  OK, I’m exaggerating somewhat. But the watch servicing process is something that binds all of us together in a way that only shared trauma can. Nobody likes to service a watch. It’s expensive, anxiety inducing, and frequently the process is less than transparent. It can also take what seems like forever to get a watch back once it’s been sent out. Plus, to state the obvious, you have to go without your watch for some indefinite period – the greatest indignity of them all! We love these things as much as one can love “t...

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First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 is Finally here in Stainless Steel (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jan 13, 2025

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 is Finally here in Stainless Steel (Incl. Video)

First presented for the 222nd anniversary of the venerable watchmaker Vacheron Constantin, the 222 was the brand’s answer to the then-growing demand for luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. The third member of the iconic Holy Trinity of luxury sports watches, next to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, all three sharing the same base […]

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Review: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Steel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jan 13, 2025

Review: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Steel

First launched in 18k yellow gold a little over two years ago, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 finally debuts in stainless steel. Sticking to the familiar vintage-remake template established by the gold model, the 222 retains the familiar “bottle cap” bezel and applied Maltese cross emblem, but in brushed steel. Like the gold model, the 222 “Jumbo” in steel is executed to a high level of fit and finish – certainly superior to that of the vintage original – and it’s presented in the classic livery of a matte blue dial (great) and faux-vintage lume (not so much). More importantly, the steel 222 substantially more affordable than the gold version, about half as expensive in fact. Initial thoughts The 222 in gold was well received at launch in 2022; it helped that the roll-out took place when integrated bracelet sports watches were all the rage. That success made the steel version a certainty. Vacheron Constantin (VC) took a little longer than I expected to unveil the steel 222, but now it’s finally here. The watch is, admittedly, predictable. It has all of the familiar elements found in the vintage originals and then the gold reissue. But it is still appealing, because the quality of execution is high and the proportions of the watch are good. Compare this to a vintage 222 and the improvement in build quality, particularly of the bracelet, is immediately obvious. Although the steel 222 is compact by modern standards, it has the refined quality of a con...

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Fears Unveils a Very Limited Version of the Brunswick Jump Hour for British Watchmakers’ Day Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Jan 10, 2025

Fears Unveils a Very Limited Version of the Brunswick Jump Hour for British Watchmakers’ Day

With the release of their Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour watch in 2024, Fears built on the already elegant jump hour platform that debuted with their Alliance 01, built in collaboration with Christopher Ward in 2023. Continuing this form, the Bristol-based company has announced the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Edwardian Edition’ to celebrate British Watchmaker’s Day 2025. Limited to 10 pieces and available exclusively at the British Watchmaker’s Day event on Saturday, March 8th, the Edwardian Edition features much of the same elegance as its predecessors, albeit with a few special details. The full-polished sterling silver case-Fears’ second such case in 100 years-wears a London Assay Hallmark, Fears’ own maker’s mark, and a flawless diamond-set crown, while the strap sports a matching sterling silver buckle. Like the original Brunswick Jump Hour, the Edwardian Edition is powered by the Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module, which features automatic winding and a 38-hour power reserve.  What sets the Edwardian Edition apart, though, is the stunning, hand-polished white lacquer dial, which features numerals and a Fears’ logo derived from the brand’s Edwardian-era pocket watches; a hand-varnished and diamond-cut glossy black minute hand pops against the multi-layer lacquer. In addition to the dial, an exclusive heritage-inspired hour disc and a maple red Alcantara strap (lined with English Tan calf leather) further elevate the Edwardian Edition. Each watch ...

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Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year SJX Watches
Breguet Combines Engraving Lacquer Jan 10, 2025

Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year

To celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, Breguet has done something adventurous with its typically formal dress watch. Created to mark the upcoming Year of the Snake, the Classique 7145 “Snake” is still ultra-thin and time-only, but features a solid gold dial bearing a stylised serpent motif realised with a combination of guilloché and engraving, with translucent green lacquer for colour. Initial thoughts The new Classique has been masterfully reworked to give it an entirely different look that departs entirely from the traditional silvered engine-turning that is a Breguet signature. For fans of Breguet’s old-school aesthetic, this is probably too far from tradition, but for someone seeking something different, this might strike a chord. Aesthetics aside, the guilloché and engraving entail a higher level of craftsmanship than ordinary engine-turned dials. In fact, the snake dial is arguably more complex and refined in technique than the dial on last year’s Dragon edition. The dial complexity is reflected in the price of US$74,600, which is substantially more than the basic time-only Classique, but on par with prevailing retail prices for metiers d’art dials. Exquisite dial work The Classique “Snake” is all about the dial, which highlights the art of engraving, guilloche, and miniature painting. The engraving employs a bas-relief technique that gives the snake a sculptural form. The motif is first sketched and then sculpted by a skilled artisan using chisels...

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First Look – Tissot Knocks It Out Of the Park Again with the PR 516 Automatic Chronograph Monochrome
Tissot Knocks It Out Jan 10, 2025

First Look – Tissot Knocks It Out Of the Park Again with the PR 516 Automatic Chronograph

Lately, it seems that Tissot can do little wrong. Release after release shows an impressive sense of style, historical inspiration and solid mechanics, all the while remaining true to the brand’s relatively affordable pricing strategy. Following the immense success of the PRX Powermatic 80 and subsequent PRX Chronograph collections, Tissot is now pushing the PR […]

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