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Fugue Introduces the Fiction One SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 22, 2020

Fugue Introduces the Fiction One

Founded just three years ago, Fugue got its start with a watch featuring a modular case with interchangeable lugs. The brand’s second model is altogether more interesting, the Fiction One. Powered by an automatic Sellita movement, the Fiction One has an intriguing mystery dial – the hands appear to be floating over its surface with no connection to the central axis. Available for pre-order on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter until end October, the Fiction One is available in two dial variations, white and smoked grey. And it is affordable, with a price of €350, or about US$420. [Update December 10, 2020: The original Kickstarter campaign for the watch did not meet its target, but Fugue is doing it a second time, offering the watch at a slightly lower price, as well as a smaller minimum quantity. The new campaign closes January 8, 2021.] Initial thoughts “Microbrands” tend to capitalise on designs that are the flavour of the day, reusing classic sports-watch designs for affordable watches. So amidst its crowdfunded peers, the Fiction One is refreshing. That said, the mystery time display is an old invention, dating to early 19th century when it was invented by French magician Jean-Eugène Robert Houdin.And in the mid 20th century, the Galaxy watch with mystery hands was produced by several brands, most notably LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Longines. Fugue takes inspiration from those wristwatches, successfully reinterpreting the idea to create something mod...

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Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2020

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro

Watchmaking is a game of microns and millimetres. The movements powering wristwatches are effectively a tiny city of gears and levers, that when blown up to a larger scale, become a chronometric Atlantis waiting to be explored and appreciated. One of the first things people notice when looking at a dial of a watch is … ContinuedThe post Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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New: Armin Strom Lady Beat – the first ladies watch from the brand Deployant
Armin Strom Lady Beat – Oct 20, 2020

New: Armin Strom Lady Beat – the first ladies watch from the brand

The newest watch from Armin Strom demonstrates one of the brand’s core principles: always innovate. Boldly redesigning the brand’s typical movement, dial and case, Lady Beat marks a milestone of the new System 78 Collection, which highlights innovative watchmaking at a competitive price. Press Release Price is set at CHF 16,900. We have requested forRead More

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Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Skull One SJX Watches
De Bethune DW5 Oct 20, 2020

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Skull One

Chopard has loosened up its strictly formal, ultra-thin dress watch with recent launches like the collaboration with tailor Kiton. Launched during Mexican watch fair Salón Internacional Alta Relojería México (SIAR), the L.U.C Skull One continues the theme – a slim, black-coated case and the dial decorated with a motif inspired by Día de Muertos, the Mexican festival that celebrates the dearly departed. Initial thoughts The Skull One is not the first Chopard dressed in a calavera, a decorated depiction of the skull used during Día de Muertos, or Day of the Dead. Two years ago, once again for SIAR, Chopard decked out its top-of-the-line L.U.C perpetual calendar with tourbillon in Day of the Dead decor that was hand engraved on the dial and case. But compared to that one-off creation (and also the similarly-themed De Bethune DW5), the Skull One is most pared back in style and also in price. Priced just shy of US$10,000, the Skull One is well priced for a wristwatch powered by a sophisticated, in-house movement that has an elaborately printed dial. And just as importantly, the watch is well designed – the skull motif works well with everything else. The look is coherently put together, with most of the elements done in shades of black and grey – even the case back crystal is tinted grey – but accented with rose gold markers and hands. Simple yet effective While obvious at a glance, the dial is thoughtful in its details. The motif is set apart from the b...

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Panerai Introduces the Radiomir Paneristi 45mm PAM02020 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 19, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Radiomir Paneristi 45mm PAM02020

As it did for several anniversaries before – but against a vastly different landscape in the past – Panerai has just announced the Radiomir Paneristi 45mm PAM02020 for the 20th anniversary of its collector forum. The PAM 2020 is a hand-wind, 45 mm Radiomir with a steel case finished with an faux-patina treatment, and an inappropriately large anniversary logo on the front (and an even larger one on the back). Initial thoughts This is the sixth Paneristi edition. Six editions ago, Paneristi was arguably the most fanatical watch forum dedicated to the hottest brand in the world. The first Paneristi edition, the PAM 195 of 2003, sold out in an instant, and despite all of them having the owner’s name engraved on the back, sold for many multiples of the original retail price on the secondary market. But times have changed. Although Panerai describes the new Paneristi Radiomir as “the result of an intense creative process involving close collaboration between… Panerai’s technical and creative team… and the Paneristi”, it is neither intense nor creative. The emblem on the dial might be engraved like it is on vintage Panerai, but it looks unattractive. And “Venti”, which is Italian for “twenty”, between the lugs regrettably brings to mind the extra-large Starbucks coffee. The dial colour and finish does look good, however, and the faux-aged case (identical to that on the Radiomir PAM 992) is also appealing. And for €6,500 this is reasonably priced, though...

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Paulin Introduces the Neo SJX Watches
Oct 19, 2020

Paulin Introduces the Neo

Founded in 2013 by the Paulin sisters, descendants of Scottish sculptor George Henry Paulin who is most famous for his war memorials across the United Kingdom, Paulin was conceived as a locally-designed watch brand focused on minimalist and monochromatic watches. And now the Glasgow-based brand introduces the Neo, a watch with 1970s flavour that the brand’s first to feature a colourful dial, either in blue, yellow, and white. More notably, the Neo is the result of a collaboration with fellow Scottish watchmaker Anordain, best known for its accessibly-priced enamel dials. Initial thoughts Put simply, the Neo is a solid offering with playful colours and in-house typography in an amiable, 38 mm package. It was realised in an unusual three-way collaboration between Paulin, local jeweller Helen Swan, and anOrdain (which was founded by the husband of one of the Paulin sisters). Paulin and Anordain have both been successful in creating original, affordable watches, but their respective offerings differ in style and price. Paulin has kept to simple, coloured dials for its watches, while Anordain made a name for itself with vitreous enamel dials. The Anordain Model 2 with a purple enamel dial As a result, the collaboration between the two is interesting, since it bridges two brands that are similar yet different. The Neo injects the fun and colour of anOrdain into the more affordable Paulin timepiece. The dial of the Neo is anodised aluminium, and not enamel, but entirely suitab...

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Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox DEPLOYANT Oct 17, 2020

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox

Underwater, accomplished and amateur divers alike need to rely on equipment that is impeccable both in terms of precision and safety. While previous models of the Polaris automatic only came with 100m water resistance, the dive styled watch is now a dive ready watch with the upgraded 300m water resistance. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is also equipped with this update in an attractive blue sunburst dial.

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MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO

The most complicated MB&F; watch when it was launched in 2015, the LM Perpetual (or LM QP) was powered by an ingenious movement combining a “split” escapement and a novel perpetual calendar mechanism developed by Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. Now MB&F; has reworked the watch to create its sportier and more robust successor, the LM Perpetual EVO. Featuring several tweaks to the case, dial, and movement that are cumulatively significant, the LM Perpetual EVO boasts increased water resistance along with an integrated rubber strap. The LM Perpetual EVO is a limited edition of 15 watches each in black, blue, and orange Initial thoughts Even though the Legacy Machine (LM) line was conceived as something inspired by the 19th century and Jules Verne, the LM Perpetual with its open-worked, intricate dial was always stylishly modern, though that was toned down by the white-lacquered sub-dials of the original model. The EVO, however, makes full use of the open-worked dial to become an uber-contemporary watch. Both the material and construction of the case are new: it’s now zirconium with a more complicated architecture, featuring recessed sides and angular lugs that integrate with the strap. And the sub-dials are black, creating a striking contrast against the base plate in black, blue, or orange. Most notably, the EVO brings to mind the Harry Winston Project Z1, which was the other major product developed by MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser when he was chief executive of ...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The FullGear Pioneer – a customisable pilot watch featuring tritium tubes, launching this week Time+Tide
Oct 12, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The FullGear Pioneer – a customisable pilot watch featuring tritium tubes, launching this week

We love classic pilot watches. Tough, no-nonsense brushed steel case tools that are a faithful reminder of the aviation glory days of yesteryear. What we want is a simple, clear dial and legibility on point, and monochromatic efficiency. But what if we had all this as a base, for a fully customisable watch not always … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The FullGear Pioneer – a customisable pilot watch featuring tritium tubes, launching this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bovet Récital 27: The Trinity Of Time Quill & Pad
Bovet Oct 10, 2020

Bovet Récital 27: The Trinity Of Time

The Bovet Récital 27 is built around a triple time zone display that one might imagine could become busy, but Bovet is rather skilled at combining complications in a way that doesn’t seem forced in any respect. But for Joshua Munchow, the most dramatic element on this dial is the double moon phase display, which shows the current moon phase in both the southern and northern hemispheres. And there is one more element he loves here, can you guess which?

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Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Blue Gold SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Oct 6, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Blue Gold

Conceived as an affordable entry into the world of the integrated-bracelet, luxury-sports watches, the BR 05 was first launched in steel, priced at a little under US$5,000. Now the brand has just taken the covers off the decidedly more lavish BR 05 Blue Gold, which is rendered in the trendy colour combination of a metallic blue dial with a rose gold case, and even a matching gold bracelet. Initial thoughts When it made its debut last year, I found the BR 05 to be as good looking as it was controversial. At a glance the design is redolent of the usual suspects in the luxury-sports watch genre. However, there’s originality to the design that is less noticeable, such as the bezel derived from the quintessential Bell & Ross (B&R;) wristwatch, the square BR 01. And the case finishing on the steel BR 05 is well done; not overly complicated yet managing to have well defined edges. All of those qualities carry over to the rose-gold variant, which coupled with the blue, sunburst-brushed dial, results in a compelling watch. But the price is far from compelling. At US$32,500 on a bracelet (and US$11,000 less on a rubber strap), the BR 05 in gold is expensive, especially since the competition is very, very strong. It is cheaper than the Royal Oak or Overseas in solid gold, but the difference doesn’t seem like that much of a stretch at this level. The Overseas in gold, for instance, costs a little over US$46,000. A good look While the value proposition in terms of the movement an...

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Nomos Introduces the Lambda Limited Edition in Steel SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Ulysse Nardin or much Oct 6, 2020

Nomos Introduces the Lambda Limited Edition in Steel

Conceived to mark a major occasion for its hometown, the Nomos Lambda 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte is a limited edition with a glossy lacquer dial that’s unusual for the brand. But it is more notable for being the first time Nomos is making its top-of-the-line watch available in steel. As a result, the new Lambda is far more affordable, despite being a limited edition. Initial thoughts Introduced in 2013 alongside its discontinued, tonneau-shaped sibling, the Lambda was Nomos’ first upscale watch and available only in an 18k gold case. Despite its qualities, the Lambda was expensive for Nomos, a brand that does simple, affordable watches well. Very expensive, in fact, with the base model in gold priced at US$17,000. It was too much of a stretch for Nomos to reach that high in the price spectrum. So the new steel Lambda makes a lot of sense. It keeps the ultra-clean dial design of the original Lambda, as well as the attractively-finished movement, while making it far more affordable. At US$7,500, it costs less than half the cheapest gold Lambda. For anyone who likes the original Lambda but couldn’t stomach the price, this is perhaps the perfect watch. That said, US$7,500 is still a lot for a Nomos. While the brand can compete strongly in its core price range of US$2,000-4,000, competition is tougher over US$7,000. For similar money, one can get an Glashütte Original, Ulysse Nardin, or much else. A 42 mm Lambda in 18k rose gold Minor refinements The 175th annivers...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Oct 5, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie

Audemars Piguet has been progressively unveiling increasingly compelling versions of the Code 11.59, starting the year with the smoked-dial models and then following with the tourbillon-chronograph. And now it’s revealed what is no doubt the flagship of the line, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie. Originally slated to have been launched earlier in the year alongside the official opening of the Audemars Piguet Museum but delayed by the pandemic, the Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie is powered by a movement enhanced with the brand’s Supersonnerie that results in one of the loudest chiming watches on the market. The pusher at 11 o’clock activates the minute repeater, while the crown at two o’clock sets the strike mode – silent, grande or petite sonnerie Beyond its technical innovation, the new Grande Sonnerie is bestowed with a dial made by Anita Porchet. It’s a limited edition of five watches, with three unique paillonné dials already having been made, while the remaining two dials can be customised by the buyer. Initial thoughts The new Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie is a well-designed watch that is surprisingly simple in style. Like the recent Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon, the grande sonnerie is strikingly modern, but the paillonné technique used to create the dial is eminently artisanal and classical. The gold paillons are arranged at random, giving the enamel dial a beautiful, almost organic appearance. Mec...

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Snow. My. God. The Grand Seiko SBGR319 presents a different take on the Snowflake Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGR319 presents Oct 4, 2020

Snow. My. God. The Grand Seiko SBGR319 presents a different take on the Snowflake

Editor’s pick: The Grand Seiko SBGR319 limited edition for the Asian market presents a new take on the brand’s world-renowned snow-driven aesthetics. Almost a year ago, Felix  did a video review of this incarnation of a winter-themed dial (along with a fetching red horizontally striped variant, the SBGH269) that presented a fresh new layer of snow … ContinuedThe post Snow. My. God. The Grand Seiko SBGR319 presents a different take on the Snowflake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph Monopusher is like a sandwich with every filling possible, and I’m hungry Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph Monopusher Oct 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph Monopusher is like a sandwich with every filling possible, and I’m hungry

I am utterly perplexed by the Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph Monopusher. This is a watch, released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Pontos range, that encompasses some of my favourite features across the ages of horology, amalgamated into one. Stealthy black, chunky yet not too large, both contemporary and vintage, with a chronograph dégradé dial. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph Monopusher is like a sandwich with every filling possible, and I’m hungry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition Time+Tide
Montblanc Oct 2, 2020

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition

For watches released this year, blue has definitely been a trending dial colour. Tudor, Panerai, Montblanc, and more have all released blue watches this year – making it hard to stand out in its usage. H. Moser & Cie, however, is always up to the challenge and continually preserves its status as a pioneering haute … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Mariner Date SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 2, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Mariner Date

Modelled on a 1960s diver’s alarm wristwatch, the Polaris was revived in 2018 as a full-fledged collection of watches ranging from time-only to chronograph. Now Jaeger-LeCoultre adds two more to the line up: the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. Looking very similar to each other, both share the same a gradient-blue dial but are distinguished in function; the Memovox is an alarm while the Date is a three-hand base model. Polaris Mariner Date (left), and Polaris Mariner Memovox Initial thoughts Probably because it manages to be sporty and slightly retro at the same time, the gradient (or fumè or smoked) blue dial is being used once again for a Polaris dive watch, not long after the similar-looking limited edition for the American market. And it’s worth noting that the three-tone blue dial takes inspiration from the Memovox “Snowdrop” of the 1970s. In short, the look isn’t novel, but it is a good one. And a few tweaks have been worked in to help it stand out, most obvious with the use of orange accents. The new Memovox on brand ambassador Benedict Cumberbatch The Polaris Mariner Memovox Although both watches have been updated in design and upgraded in functionality – water resistance is now 300 m instead of 200 m – they are beset by a sharp increase in price. For instance, the new Mariner Memovox alarm watch costs about 40% more than the equivalent limited edition of 2018. And the Mariner Date costs a bit over US$11,000, while the standar...

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Seiko Introduces the Diver’s Watch 55th Anniversary “62MAS” and “6105” SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Oct 1, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Diver’s Watch 55th Anniversary “62MAS” and “6105”

Seiko is marking the 55th anniversary of its first diver’s watch with remakes – yet again. The Prospex 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043 modelled on the 62MAS 6217, while the Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB183 takes its cues from the 6105-8110. Initial thoughts Seiko is certainly not short on diver’s watches: it introduced the 55th anniversary trilogy in March, as well as a green-dial LX diver a few months later. This pair feels like two watches too many, especially since they aren’t that different from watches launched before. 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB183J1 (left), and 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043J1 It’s a given that both possess all of the intrinsic appeal of Seiko dive watches – solid construction, excellent case finishing, and a robust movement. The two watches also enjoy strong historical legitimacy given Seiko’s immense track record in dive watches. But not only does there seem to be too many Seiko limited editions, both are not quite as afforably priced as Seiko dive watches once were. They are still reasonably priced, but no longer as compelling. 62MAS The 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043 is a remake of the first-ever Seiko dive watch, the 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Like earlier 62MAS remakes, this is larger than the original at 39.9 mm in diameter. Notably, it is slimmer than the remake from the diver’s watch trilogy launched earlier in the year, because this is powered by the 8L35 running at 4 H...

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Blancpain: 2 new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphes- Chronographe Flyback and Day Date with live pictures Deployant
Blancpain 2 new Fifty Fathoms Sep 30, 2020

Blancpain: 2 new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphes- Chronographe Flyback and Day Date with live pictures

Blancpain introduces two Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe watches - the Chronographe Flyback with a green dial, and a Day Date 1970s in a desert sand coloured dial. We had a hands-on session with the watches earlier today, and will publish our detailed findings soon. But in the meantime, here is the press release and some of our live photographs.

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Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Sep 29, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge

Having unveiled mostly simpler watches in the year so far, like the new Tradition with retrograde date, Breguet is now launching something big, both mechanically and literally. The Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge is, admittedly, a heavily fancied up variant of an existing model, but in typical Breguet style, it is executed to a high level of fit and finish. Originally launched in 2006 as the ref. 5347 with a guilloche dial (and subsequently as the ref. 5349 set with diamonds), the Classique Double Tourbillon has been refined and elaborated upon. It now boasts a skeletonised dial with upgraded decoration, hand-engraved bridges, as well as a thinner case band, but the watch remains enormous. Initial thoughts The original Double Tourbillon was enormous – 44 mm by 17.05 mm – with a tall, bulbous bezel that made it look even thicker. Named after the located of the original Breguet workshops in Paris, the new Double Tourbillon 5345 addresses that as much as possible by narrowing the bezel case band as much as possible, and instead using an highly-domed sapphire crystal that’s almost half the total height. It’s still a very large watch, but it looks less voluminous and massive, especially with the open-worked dial. The sapphire chapter ring for the hours and minutes that encircles the movement Decoration and materials are top class. There is a lot of decoration, but it goes well together, unlike on the original model. The decor seemed incongruous o...

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Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs: Just A Splash Of Flash Quill & Pad
Hermes Sep 26, 2020

Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs: Just A Splash Of Flash

The Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté de Diamants et Saphirs adds a fanciful and whimsical slant to the Arceau Petite Lune, which is just begging for some fun. This new version utilizes a mother-of-pearl dial and date subdial adorned by 65 blue sapphires and 58 tiny diamonds. It's a Goldilocks splash of flash, not too much and not too little. Time to fall in love!

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Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer – Limited Edition: hands-on review Deployant
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer – Limited Sep 26, 2020

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer – Limited Edition: hands-on review

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer was first released in Baselworld 2009 with two versions – white and rose gold with silver dials. In Baselworld 2016, the watch was updated with a blue in-house manufactured dial. The 2020 version now comes with a new case design, noticeably the bezel and a differently finished movement. 

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INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Sep 26, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon

Editor’s note: In the latest episode of Watch & Chill, we happen on the subject of Royal Oak Concept models for women, and after again seeing the footage of this extraordinary stepped dial sparkle machine, we had to give it its own post, and exploration.  Ask the average person what the purpose of a watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MB&F; Introduces the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’ SJX Watches
Casio nally collaborations Sep 22, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’

Conceived as an imagined, 19th-century take on MB&F;’s uber-modern, sci-fi inspired Horological Machines, the Legacy Machines (LM) draw inspiration from the aesthetic of the era – and the works of Jules Verne – to create a steampunk-meets-classical-watchmaking timepiece. Now the spirit of the LM have been made tangible with the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’.  The series is limited to just eight watches in red gold, each featuring a dial depicting a scene from Verne’s novels, rendered in minute detail with the hand engraving of Eddy Jaquet, a Swiss artisan who has worked with an array of watchmakers but perhaps best known for his work on Voutilainen watches. Initial thoughts The new LM Split Escapement (SE) is a departure from the typical MB&F; watch, which usually emphasises technical aspects, like movement construction or finishing, or case design and materials (and occasionally collaborations with contemporary artists). Instead the new LM SE is all about artisanal craft, something that is familiar territory for independent watchmakers like Voutilainen but novel for MB&F;. Though such artistically decorated timepieces are not a traditional strength of MB&F;, the result is an attractive watch. The engraving is impressively done, and avoids appearing monochromatic thanks to its depth. The intricate, pictorial engraving also complements the style of the LM, making the whole greater than the sum of the parts. In fact, it can be argued that the original LM SE w...

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Raketa Introduces the Big Zero Malevich SJX Watches
Raketa Sep 22, 2020

Raketa Introduces the Big Zero Malevich

Having been reenergised with some Swiss marketing savvy, Russian watchmaker Raketa has revived some of its Soviet-era classics and now debuts the striking Big Zero Malevich. The Big Zero Malevich reproduces one of the artist’s most famous works with tiny pieces of mineral stone, creating a stark, geometric mosaic on the dial. Created in partnership with the State Tretyakov Gallery, the Big Zero Malevich is a limited edition of 300 watches, with a portion of the proceeds from its sale going to the museum. Initial thoughts Art rarely translates well onto a watch dial, especially for an affordable price, but the Big Zero Malevich manages to pull it off. It appeals visually, but also in terms of materials – the dial is not just printed but instead a mineral stone mosaic. As an aside, shorter hands would have maximised the impact of the black square on the dial – the hands would blend into the square entirely – but that would have made legibility impossible. The only downside is the simple case and no-frills movement, but with a price tag of a little over US$1,400, the Big Zero Malevich is priced well. Abstract mosaic A watch brand owned by the Petrodvorets Watch Factory, which has its origins in 18th century Tsarist Russia, Raketa is now owned by English and French investors who recruited former Jaquet Droz chief executive Manuel Emch as a consultant. An industry veteran who’s an art collector himself, Mr Emch is no doubt responsible for the tie up with Tretyakov Ga...

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