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Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph... Jul 23, 2024

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...

Moser’s Latest Perpetual is Minimalist and Purple Fired Enamel SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Jul 15, 2024

Moser’s Latest Perpetual is Minimalist and Purple Fired Enamel

H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base. It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect. Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction. The case back is etched with the Sincer...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis Fratello
Longines Cartier Tudor Sinn Jul 4, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis

It has already been nine months since our last series of articles about the best watches under €5,000. I had to look up my choices from last time (new watches from Longines, Tudor, and Seiko and a pre-owned pick from Omega). I still stand by those picks, but my mood is slightly different these days, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - RJ’s Picks From Longines, Cartier, Tudor, Sinn, And Fortis to read the full article.

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Its Most Complicated Streamliner to Date SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Jun 28, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Its Most Complicated Streamliner to Date

The most complicated H. Moser & Cie. sports watch to date, the Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Blue Enamel is derived from the unique Streamliner Pandamonium created in collaboration with MB&F;. The new Streamliner retains both the minute repeater and tourbillon, but without the panda figure and the oversized balance wheel. In typical Moser “concept” style, the blue grand feu enamel dial is free of any markings and finished with a fumè gradient effect that darkens towards the periphery. Also found in the Endeavour, the movement was developed in collaboration with specialist Manufacture Hautes Complications (MHC). Initial thoughts Since Moser released the Streamliner four years ago, the sports watch has become the brand’s bestseller – unsurprisingly given the popularity of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch category in general. The new repeater-tourbillon fills in a gap in the Streamliner range, which is to say a top-of-the-line, flagship complication. Both minute repeater and flying tourbillon are visible on the dial If you like the Streamliner design, as I do, the new repeater-tourbillon is a handsome watch. The addition of the visible mechanisms on the dial add greater detail and depth to the visuals, while the fired enamel dial is a nice tough, though a fragile enamel dial is somewhat paradoxical in a sports watch. The repeater-tourbillon is similar in dimensions to the Streamliner chronograph, a good size for a sports watch of this design. The ...

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Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Jun 23, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 83 – Oh No, More MoonSwatches!

On episode 83 of A Week in Watches, we take a look at three new relatively affordable releases. First is a new powerhouse of a chronograph from Farer with unique functionality. Next is a new addition to Seiko’s Craftsmanship line, featuring a dial of beautiful Arita porcelain. Last, the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch returns again with some vibrant colors. This week’s episode is brought to you by Windup Watch Fair Chicago, which is preparing to kick off on July 12th. Eindup Chicago is heading into its third year and will feature over 40 brands, including Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and many more. Located at Venue West in West Town, it’s sure to be another exciting year. Learn more at Windupwatchfair.com The post A Week in Watches Ep. 83 – Oh No, More MoonSwatches! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Collective and Armin Strom are Back with a Second LE Worn & Wound
Armin Strom are Back Jun 18, 2024

Collective and Armin Strom are Back with a Second LE

One of the things we love about independent watchmaking is the ability for a brand to move swiftly on a project based on feedback from their clients, collaborators, and the watch world writ large. A new release from Collective and Armin Strom is a great example of how one good idea can quickly beget another, and in the grand scheme of things it really doesn’t even take that long. Not even two years ago, Collective and Armin Strom released the P.03 Gravity Equal Force, a creative take on one of Armin Strom’s signature designs. The concept behind the original release was to make this bit of high end watchmaking into something truly tactical, and its aesthetic was inspired by apparel, packs, and EDC tools in its finishing, color, and overall vibe. This new release, the P.03 “Night Ops,” takes that idea a step further, and does what arguably should have been done the first time around: blacking out the case.  It seems obvious, right? When you think “tactical” in watchmaking, you probably think “black,” at least to some extent. I have to say, though, that until I heard Collective and Armin Strom were making this new edition, the thought never actually crossed my mind that the original should have been black. I think that speaks to the genuine novelty of that first watch. It’s so rare for a haute horlogerie brand like Armin Strom to dabble in EDC inspiration that the first try really sold me. The new Night Ops variant feels like a more fully realized version o...

Charles Leclerc Makes A Power Move - The F1 Star Invests In Chrono24 Fratello
Jun 5, 2024

Charles Leclerc Makes A Power Move - The F1 Star Invests In Chrono24

Formula 1’s rising star Charles Leclerc has proven himself a force to be reckoned with on the racetrack. But beyond the high-g world of Grand Prix, Leclerc harbors another passion - timepieces. This passion recently took a surprising turn with the announcement of his investment in Chrono24, the world’s leading online marketplace for luxury watches. […] Visit Charles Leclerc Makes A Power Move - The F1 Star Invests In Chrono24 to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Watches With Full-Lume Dials Fratello
Hamilton last weekend during May 31, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Watches With Full-Lume Dials

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we take a step away from the pre-owned watches we have been covering lately. Earlier this week, IWC announced the first fully luminous ceramic watch. Watch spotters saw it on the wrist of Formula 1 driver and IWC ambassador Lewis Hamilton last weekend during the Monaco Grand Prix. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Watches With Full-Lume Dials to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Skeletonized Monaco Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces May 28, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Skeletonized Monaco

Once again, TAG Heuer has released a new Monaco chronograph to celebrate the running of the Monaco Grand Prix, which took place over the weekend in, you guessed it, Monaco. While it’s surely a bit on-the-nose to unveil a new chronograph that is named after the race itself on race weekend, we’ll forgive TAG here given the simple fact that the Monaco Grand Prix’s place in our culture. If it’s not one of the most watched races in the world, it’s certainly one of the most recognizable and well known. The word “Monaco” to many will immediately conjure images of the race, unless it’s heard by a watch collector, in which case iconic square cased chrono is likely to be front of mind. In any event, not introducing a new Monaco on race weekend would likely amount to a tactical error on TAG Heuer’s part, given the intense focus on F1 over the weekend.  The new watch is effectively a new variant of the watch released last year, which introduced skeleton dials to the Monaco collection with brightly colored accents and lightweight titanium cases. Here we have a DLC coated titanium case measuring 39mm across and 15.2mm tall, with a skeletonized dial featuring dark blue and bright yellow accents. Skeleton dials can, of course, sometimes be a bit difficult to read, but time-telling on the skeletonized Monaco is fairly straightforward with sharp white minute markers at the perimeter of the blue minute ring, and oversized lume filled hour markers set against the Caliber 02...

IWC Unveils Experimental Luminous Ceramic Case SJX Watches
Hamilton May 28, 2024

IWC Unveils Experimental Luminous Ceramic Case

IWC just revealed an experimental Pilot’s chronograph with a luminous ceramic case – on the wrist of Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton at the Monaco Grand Prix. Christened Ceralume, the material was developed XPL, the watchmaker’s experimental engineering department. According to IWC, the Ceralume concept watch was glowing a bright blue for more than 24 hours in dark chamber tests (although it didn’t state how the material was “charged” prior to the test). According to IWC, the patent-pending material is created by blending ceramic powder with Super-Luminova, the luminous material produced by RC Tritec that absorbs light energy and then emits it. Being non-radioactive, Super-Luminova is widely used to illuminate watch dials, and also suited to a case material. Though IWC has not revealed specifics about future plans for the material, it did say Ceralume will “form the foundation of future developments and releases.” Lewis Hamilton at the 2024 Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix Initial thoughts Ever since the discovery of radium in 1898, luminous materials have become commonplace in watches, primarily to aid legibility. With legibility being less crucial today, luminous paint is increasingly used for purely aesthetic purposes. Moreover, luminous ceramic is not actually new. Tudor, for instance, used luminous ceramic hour markers in the Black Bay Pro of 2022. IWC is the first to make an entire case from the material, albeit not one that is available commercially (ye...

Hot Take: The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton In Black DLC Titanium Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton May 26, 2024

Hot Take: The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton In Black DLC Titanium

If you read this article shortly after publication, you are probably missing the Monaco Grand Prix. Or you are multi-tasking, which I would not recommend; eyes on the road! Either way, TAG Heuer is releasing a new version of its Monaco Chronograph in celebration of the Monaco race. Join me for a first look at […] Visit Hot Take: The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton In Black DLC Titanium to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco “Dark Blue” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces May 24, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco “Dark Blue”

In anticipation of the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Monaco Chronograph “Dark Blue”, a variant of last year’s Skeleton Dial that retains the open-worked dial that’s now in a restrained blue with vibrant yellow accents, match with a case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts The new Monaco makes an immediate impression with its striking colours and open-worked design. It’s essentially a darker version of last year’s model (that was almost electric blue), with the muted blue a good compliment for yellow accents on the counters, central and hands, while also matching the all-black case. Aside from the aesthetic refinements, this is fundamentally a Monaco Skeleton Dial, with the same calibre and dimensions. Appropriately, it is priced the same as last year’s equivalent Skeleton Dial model. However, the Skeleton Dial is not quite a value proposition as it’s priced quite a bit higher than the Monaco “Dark Lord” that has the same movement. Muted colours The latest Monaco is making its debut just in time for the Monaco Grand Prix that begins this weekend. It’s essentially a chromatic variation of Skeleton Dial “Turquoise”, with the same open-worked dial showcasing the mechanics. The primary distinction is the lattice-like dial that is now in a dark, navy blue. It’s matched with yellow lacquered hands for the chronograph, which are echoed by yellow markings on the oscillating weight and column wheel visib...

Fratelli Stories: Connecting To Vintage Watches Through Old Ads Fratello
Omega sparked his very own May 24, 2024

Fratelli Stories: Connecting To Vintage Watches Through Old Ads

In this edition of Fratelli Stories, reader Antonio shares how his father’s passion for vintage Seiko and Omega sparked his very own love of watches. But it was old ads that truly sucked him into the hobby. Imagine flicking through an old magazine or publication one day at a secondhand store and coming across one […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Connecting To Vintage Watches Through Old Ads to read the full article.

Introducing – The Staggering Beauty of the Bulgari Aeterna High-Jewellery Watch Collection 2024 Monochrome
Bulgari Aeterna High-Jewellery Watch Collection May 22, 2024

Introducing – The Staggering Beauty of the Bulgari Aeterna High-Jewellery Watch Collection 2024

Bulgari celebrates Rome, la città eterna, with a spellbinding collection of high jewellery watches congregated in the 2024 “Aeterna” collection. This year also marks Bulgari’s grand 140th anniversary. To celebrate, creative director Fabrizio Buonamassa brings out the big guns with some of the most extraordinary timepieces dripping with the brand’s signature coloured gemstones and his […]

Taking A Spin With The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV To Start The Last Week Of The Giro D’Italia Fratello
Bravur May 20, 2024

Taking A Spin With The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV To Start The Last Week Of The Giro D’Italia

The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV is a chronograph from the Grand Tour series of the cycle-crazy Swedish brand. The color of the sub-dials and the central chronograph seconds hand clearly state, “I am a Giro d’Italia Watch” (please read this in your best Italian accent). Since the famous stage race is in its final […] Visit Taking A Spin With The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV To Start The Last Week Of The Giro D’Italia to read the full article.

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Marathon May 14, 2024

Marathon’s SAR Lineup Outfits the Inaugural Windup in a Bay

In 2022, a group of intrepid watch enthusiast divers began a grand tradition of coupling a Lake Michigan dive adventure with the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, affectionately referred to as Windup in a Lake. Well, this tradition has expanded to include more divers and, as of last week, a new destination. Monterey Bay was the inaugural location of the first Windup in a Bay, part of our Windup Watch Fair San Francisco festivities. Best of all, our friends at Marathon were interested in participating in this adventure as well.  When search and rescue pros from around the world reach for a mission timer, the Canada-based watchmaker Marathon has been a go-to solution for over 80 years. So, their SAR collection-short for, you guessed it, Search and Rescue-was an ideal catalog to outfit the team of pros who gathered to kick off this dip into the Pacific. For this trip to the iconic Monterey Bay, we paired a slew of dive-rated Marathon SARs with five watch enthusiasts, each with major diving chops. Here’s our official photo recap and impressions from the team. The post Marathon’s SAR Lineup Outfits the Inaugural Windup in a Bay appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” for Miami GP SJX Watches
Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic May 3, 2024

Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” for Miami GP

Days before the Miami Grand Prix, Tudor announced a pair of special watches specifically for the event: the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” issued to Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB). With a rainbow-hued dial that draws inspiration from the credit card of the team’s main sponsor, the two watches match the VCARB cars that have been dressed in a rainbow livery only for the Miami GP. They follow the quiet unveil in February of the Black Bay Ceramic with a blue dial made for the VCARB team at large.  The Chameleon on the wrist of Daniel Ricciardo. Image – Visa Cash App RB Initial thoughts While the first VCARB edition was discreetly launched, this new pair was officially announced by Tudor. Unlike the earlier edition though, these are one-off creations intended for the drivers to wear during the Miami GP. While Tudor has produced numerous collaborative special editions over the years, this stands out for its unusually colourful dial that stands in contrast to the no-fuss aesthetic Tudor often employs. With a dial reminiscent of tie-dye shirts of the 1960s, the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” sports an unorthodox aesthetic for a “tool” watch. Although the look is decidedly atypical for the brand, it’s striking and surprisingly appealing, though it will certainly be polarising. The Black Bay “Chameleon”, however, is not available to the public, making the appeal a moot point. The Miami GP-specific livery of the V...