Video: New Episode (9) of the Deployant Show: complicated watches
In this video, we answer the newbie question of what are complications in watches, and talk about our personal favourite complications.
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In this video, we answer the newbie question of what are complications in watches, and talk about our personal favourite complications.
Fratello
I have always believed that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is best enjoyed when you stop treating it like a precious object and start treating it like a companion. With ongoing wait lists and the like, getting one new from the Rolex AD has proven tricky. Luckily, Rolex recently loaned me the new Oyster Perpetual 36mm […] Visit Two Weeks With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Pistachio” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
It utilises Nitron MC, an advanced, scratch-resistant hard-coating technology developed in its hometown of Cambridge.The post Beaucroft goes full stealth with the Element Rebel Black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Editor’s note – As our long-time readers might know, MONOCRHOME is usually quite (to say the least) technical. We like to go in-depth, to look at the ins and outs of watchmaking, sometimes tackling highly complex topics. This was the main objective behind our “Technical Perspective” series, where we’ve covered some of the most complex […]
Deployant
The 2025 reissue of the Seiko Rotocall is a curious and deliberate throwback to an era when digital watches were not just tools, but symbols of technological optimism.
Time+Tide
A stealthy DLC colourway has been added to the core collection of the Nodus Sector II platform.The post Nodus brings a stealthy look back to the range with the Sector II Pilot DLC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
There’s a particular kind of madness that grips watch nerds before a big trip. Other people worry about airport transfers, currency exchange, or how many pairs of socks they need. I, however, have spent the last two weeks in what I can only describe as horological paralysis, staring at my watch box as if it […] Visit The Agonizing Joy Of Choosing A Holiday Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
Have you ever wondered what it is like to drive a Porsche 911 GT3? I did! Of course, it’s the most powerful and driver-focused, naturally aspirated version of the legendary 911, and it is praised by everyone for its brutal power, magnificent driving capabilities and sheer fun. After eight years of driving a 911 Carrera […]
Monochrome
Graduating from his watchmaking studies in Switzerland this year, young indie watchmaker Ivan Berets is set to launch his first watch. Simply called the Series 1, it is based on his graduation project watch, more poetically known as the Montre d’Ecole in French. With Russian roots, Ivan now resides in Italy and has unveiled the Sereis […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Among all of Rolex’s bracelet options, the Oysterflex is perhaps the most unconventional and arguably the most misunderstood. Now marking 10 years on the market, and encompassing attributes of both a sturdy steel bracelet and a supple rubber strap, the Oysterflex has gone from being a curious, one-off outlier on a niche Yacht-Master model to an integral element of some of the Crown’s most buzz-worthy timepieces of recent years. Here’s what you should know about it. History of Rubber Watch Straps The road to the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet really started with the invention of vulcanized rubber in 1839, attributed to chemist Charles Goodyear (below, whose name is now immortalized in the automotive world as a leading manufacturer of tires). Vulcanized rubber - a compound of natural rubber with other compounds, which offered enhanced resilience and pliability - was originally used in mostly industrial areas, as in the manufacture of o-rings, gaskets, and (of course) tires. The discovery of fluoroelastomers as an alternative to the difficult-to-source natural rubber led to the rise of synthetic rubbers that had even more advantages, such as resistance to water, oils, and temperature extremes. These rubbers found their way into more everyday products such as shoes, belts, and flooring, while also expanding further into applications in the automotive industry, for door seals, hoses, and other parts. Synthetic rubber first emerged as an alternative for wristwatch straps in...
Time+Tide
The Man United defender turned entrepreneur stopped by our London Discovery Studio for a night all about Norqain. The post Norqain and Gary Neville stopped by the London Studio for a Wild night appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
In a surprising and quite unexpected move, Alpina celebrated its 140th anniversary in 2023 by unveiling a highly limited run of Heritage Carrée Mechanical watches, featuring the authentic calibre 490 hand-wound movement from 1938 inside, restored and presented in a silver case. Following positive reactions and to ensure continuity, the brand introduced non-limited versions in […]
Deployant
I had the opportunity to ride the top of the line Moulton Double Pylon with all high end components over a week, and here is a quick review.
Fratello
When CIGA Design first released the Everest Central Tourbillon, it caught plenty of us off guard. Here was a young Chinese brand taking on one of horology’s most challenging mechanisms while doing it in a watch that actually felt emotionally grounded. Brad’s hands-on review from last year summed it up nicely: this was a watch […] Visit CIGA Design Scales Higher With The New Everest Summit Central Tourbillon to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Every Windup has its share of surprises, and the recently completed New York edition of the fair (in our big 10th anniversary year) was no exception. Something I was definitely not expecting was the newest release from Lorier, the Roosevelt. Lorier is a brand that’s on my personal Mt. Rushmore of microbrands – I just find their watches endlessly charming and Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega are among my favorite people to run into at a watch event. The existence of the Roosevelt itself isn’t so much a surprise, but the way it was presented felt different. Lorier didn’t have a booth at this year’s NYC show, but introduced the watch through their partners at Grand Central Watch, who had a space on the second floor of our venue, showing off the Roosevelt and doing some bracelet adjustments and strap changes on the side. The Roosevelt feels in some ways like a cousin of the Zephyr, Lorier’s Art Deco inspired dress watch from a few years back that felt like a real departure from their midcentury sports watch roots. I was a huge fan of the Zephyr, and remember thinking at the time it could signal an entirely new lane for Lorier to experiment in. Now we get the Roosevelt, which feels like a departure in many of the same, satisfying ways. Inspired by the design of Grand Central Terminal, the Roosevelt is a cushion cased design reminiscent of sports watches from the 1920s. Today, it presents like a dressier piece, but in a lot of ways this watch is very much in line with Lorie...
Fratello
Twenty years after launching its first watch, British watch brand Christopher Ward seems to be settling into a hard-earned level of maturity. Its latest introduction, the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT, exemplifies everything the brand has learned over the past two decades. It’s an impressive, feature-packed tool watch that combines the brand’s now fully fleshed-out design […] Visit Hot Take: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT to read the full article.
Monochrome
Born from the French Ministry of Defence’s Type 20 brief in the mid-1950s, the Type 20 Chronograph watches featured a black dial, a flyback (retour en vol) function, a rotating bezel, and pilot-proof robustness. Alongside fellow suppliers like Breguet, Mathey-Tissot, and Auricoste, Airain’s Type 20 quickly became one of the most recognisable field chronographs. A […]
Fratello
As the year progresses and new releases continue to shape the horological landscape, Fratello is turning its attention to one of watchmaking’s most enduring genres, the dress watch. Welcome to Fratello Dress Watch Season, a new series that brings together eight of our writers - and you, our readers - to determine which of this […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: The Search for 2025’s Most Elegant Timepiece to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Russell has this theory that Bulgari is the biggest rebel in the entire watchmaking industry. He went to Bulgari to put that to the test.The post Inside Bulgari’s rebellion: how the watch industry’s fastest mover does the impossible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Born in the Black Forest and best known for instrument chronographs like the 417 ES and Pioneer series, Hanhart also has a quieter thread that predates its stopwatch fame: the wristwatches of the 1930s (cal. 36/39), valued for clarity and everyday utility. The Silva line infuses that heritage into a modern, time-only series. It is […]
Fratello
Let me ask you a simple question: if you had to choose between a tourbillon and a Gravity Control System, which would you pick? Well, then again, you might require more information before answering my question since the system I mentioned might not be a household name. Therefore, let me introduce the gravity-defying Zenith Defy […] Visit Introducing: The Gravity-Defying Zenith Defy Zero G Sapphire - 46mm Of Transparent Or Blue Sapphire Goodness to read the full article.
SJX Watches
World time watches are notoriously imperfect, often out of sync with the realities of daylight savings and partial-hour time zone offsets. Yet their appeal endures thanks to their mechanical ingenuity and jet-set romance. The Richard Mille RM 63-02 Worldtimer stands out in both respects, with a planetary differential that enables the wearer adjust time zones with a simple twist of the bezel. Limited to just 100 pieces, the RM 63-02 offers commanding presence thanks to its 47 mm case in 18k rose gold and titanium, and its bold pink and burgundy colourway. While not a fit for every wrist or every budget, it’s nonetheless more wearable and accessible than expected. Initial thoughts From a strictly practical standpoint, the standard format for world time watches is inherently flawed, as about half the world observes daylight savings time for about half the year, and a fifth of the world’s population lives in time zones with partial-hour offsets. Flaws aside, they capture a certain jet set romance, and are frequently beautiful or clever. Richard Mille’s world timers are the latter, and maybe even the former too, depending on your disposition. The RM 63-02 is clever in its operational and conceptual simplicity, though the actual implementation is quite sophisticated, enabling the user to adjust to local time with a simple turn of the bezel. This functionality is reminiscent of the IWC Timezoner, which was itself based on a patent acquired from Vogard. Richard Mille’s app...
Monochrome
When discovering new and exciting independent watchmakers, I am often surprised by how many of them come from outside the industry. While many pursue a life and career in engineering, mechanics, and so on, not everyone follows the most obvious path of going to a watchmaking school. The upside of this is that many bring […]
SJX Watches
One of the earliest wristwatches created by the modern-day Breguet company was the 3130, way back in 1983. Now for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has continued the lineage with the Classique 7235. Inspired by the historic No. 5 pocket watch, just like the earlier 3130, the 7235 reimagines a Breguet classic with the brand’s new design language that debuted with the first anniversary wristwatch earlier this year. Limited to 250 pieces, the 7235 is powered by a derivative of the same movement found in the 3130, but with one bestowed with several generations worth of technical and decorative upgrades. The calibre is also hand engraved with a 19th century streetscape of Paris that includes Abraham-Louis Breguet’s work on Quai de l’Horloge. The cal. 502.3.DRL in the 7235 Initial thoughts The 7235 is instantly familiar. A staple of Breguet’s catalogue over the years, the asymmetric dial with a power reserve, moon phase, and small seconds is quintessential Breguet in style. But the 7235 is not quite Breguet as it is now known, as while it retains the movement and dial design, it employs the new aesthetic of Breguet’s 250th anniversary line-up. While most will be accustomed to the “Breguet style” of coin-edged case with straight soldered lugs and silvered guilloche dial, the 7235 moves away from that to good effect – yet the 7235 is immediately recognisable as a Breguet. The new design marries the new with the old: the patterned case band is retained, but instead of...
Time+Tide
Looking for a watch to match your Halloween costume? Get your spook on with these 9 that range from Gothic and grim to just plain goofy.The post Trick or treat! Here’s 9 of the spookiest watches just in time for Halloween appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Besides their accessible dress watches and fairly-priced yet robust retro-inspired divers, Baltic has long been all about race cars and vintage motorsport competitions (not really a surprise when you know the founders’ passion). The connection between cars and watches is obvious, and Baltic materialised it with several Tour Auto-themed models, the latest in line being […]
Worn & Wound
Just about a year ago, Christopher Ward released the C60 Trident Lumiere, a dive watch that impressed all of us here at Worn & Wound with its styling, bold lume, and easy wearability. Today, they’ve announced what amounts to a spiritual successor to that watch, and a natural evolution of it, the C63 Sealander GMT. With the new C63 Sealander GMT, Christopher Ward has made their version of a no compromises adventure watch in the vein of Rolex Explorers, Omega Planet Oceans, and the like, with, of course, the practicality of a GMT. If you were intrigued by last year’s Trident Lumiere but are after something that’s maybe a bit more tied to land (or air), the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT might be of interest. It all starts with a 41mm stainless steel case with Christopher Ward’s signature “light catcher” finishing elements, found most prominently along the lugs. Two dial variants are available at launch, a simple black and a military green, both with grained, matte finishes to bolster the tool watch nature of the piece. Each version features a fixed ceramic bezel in black with a 24 hour scale. But the real star of the show here is the impressive lume treatment on the dial. Once again, Christopher Ward has tapped their partners at Xenoprint, just steps away from their facility in Biel, to create bold blocks of lume to enhance dial legibility, both during the day and at night. The markers, hands, and even the brand’s logo are made up of solid blocks of Globolight l...
Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen releases limited edition stone dial variations of its popular F77 MKI in the "Last Series".The post Nivada Grenchen sees out the first-generation F77 with a two-tone and stone dial celebration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Just released! The much anticipated EVF only Leica M. Dubbed the M EV1. We got our hands on a pre-release sample, and tested it for this review.
Monochrome
As one of the oldest names in the Swiss watch industry, Favre Leuba’s fortunes have fluctuated over the centuries. During the 1960s, Favre Leuba had a notable run of iconic, heavy-duty tool watches. Having changed hands several times, industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann was behind the relaunch of Favre Leuba staged during Geneva Watch Days 2024. […]
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