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Monochrome
RGM Watch Company has never been a brand to chase trends or pop culture. Founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy in Pennsylvania, the brand has built its reputation on traditional watchmaking, producing around 400 watches annually while preserving crafts such as engine turning, movement decoration, and even in-house calibre production. Its latest release, however, […]
Deployant
High-tech ceramic was first introduced by Rado in 1986. The process begins with zirconium oxide powders injected into precision moulds at pressures of around 1,000 bar, then sintered at 1,450°C. The result is a material rated at 1,250 on the Vickers hardness scale, finished using diamond tools.
Fratello
Depancel has made a name for itself by creating affordable racing-inspired watches. But what if the French brand shook the race livery and created a chronograph inspired by a uniquely elegant road car from the 1940s? You’d end up with the Depancel Série-R Chronograph Ice Blue. It’s a fresh take on Depancel’s popular Série-R Chronograph […] Visit Keeping Cool During Summer With The Depancel Série-R Chronograph Ice Blue Limited Edition to read the full article.
![Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics]](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/f2731bf2-0cca-4542-9684-53f30c9ce71d/doxa-topper-tgraph-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=2000)
Hodinkee
What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...
Hodinkee
Here we go again. It's been a blue ribbon auction year so far, particularly for rare examples of timepieces from independents, including F.P. Journe. During a record-setting spring auction season marked by a stunning shift in valuations and collector interest in top-notch independent watchmakers, an early Chronomètre à Résonance (no. 007) fetched a record $13.9 million, making it the most expensive F.P. Journe watch ever sold at auction and the fifth most expensive watch of all time. Mark wrote up a great piece on the record-breaking result that dives deep into the history of the Résonance and why it's such an important achievement in haute horology, and why it is François-Paul Journe's signature watch. With the prototype produced in 1998, and with 'Souscription' commercial pieces produced and delivered beginning in 2000, Journe's Chronomètre à Résonance marks the first time that the concept of "résonance," combining two movements with separate balances into a single case and bringing them into perfect synchronization, was brought to a wristwatch. For many collectors, the model represents the ultimate expression of Journe's vision and talent as a watchmaker. Just 20 'Souscription' pieces—offered to those who bought Journe's first watch, a tourbillon—were produced, and collectors have come to covet the series, with the earliest watches fetching a premium. When it comes to the Résonance, the earlier the better, it seems. That's why it's newsworthy and worth ...
SJX Watches
In the run-up to the 57th anniversary of mankind’s first steps on the moon, Swatch has launched the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969, a watch that follows the proven MoonSwatch formula but enhances the value proposition with a substantial amount of 18k MoonShine gold. In fact, the 11 g of 18k gold contained in the dial, crown, and pushers is worth nearly twice the retail price of the watch at today’s spot price. In addition to the historical “OM” designation found at six o’clock, the dial is also engraved “Au 750” denoting its solid gold construction. Initial thoughts The anniversary of the moon landing, which took place July 21, 1969, is an annual reminder of the Omega Speedmaster’s legendary status as ‘the moon watch’. It’s an old story, but it remains a good one. The MoonSwatch leans heavily on this heritage, and the latest iteration is arguably the greatest, borrowing several aesthetic motifs from the so-called “Nixon” Speedmasters that were gifted to American astronauts and government officials — namely the gold dial and black inlay for the hands and dial markers. Substantively, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is much like any other MoonSwatch, with a plastic case that’s a dead ringer for that of the Speedmaster Professional. An ETA quartz chronograph ticks inside, and the battery — now protected by a scratch-resistant cover — is accessible from the case back. That said, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is an atypical Moon...
WristBuzz
Ref. SSX01B700: solid 18K Moonshine gold dial, gold crown and pushers, 11 grams of the good stuff, and CHF 500 because Swatch decided to charge 1969 gold prices. Only 1969 pieces. ESTA lottery is live.
Worn & Wound
This was supposed to be the summer of the Royal Pop. Still the biggest cultural moment for watches of the year, the Royal Pop launch did not exactly go as anyone anticipated, and it created perhaps the wrong kind of crossover moment for all involved. I’ve come to think that the product itself, a colorful pocket watch sharing a silhouette with the Royal Oak, is a lot of fun and a genuinely good and smart idea, but the rollout was so epically poor it will take a long time for the sour taste in all of our mouths to be washed away. I’m not quite sure what the current availability of Royal Pops actually is in the various Swatch boutiques that are designated to sell them. I’ve seen exactly one in the wild, at Windup Chicago over the weekend, worn on the wrist of an attendee on an aftermarket strap of some kind. It’s safe to say, though, that it has not yet caught on as a Labubu-like sensation the way that Audemars Piguet and Swatch likely hoped that it would. So, like Swatch themselves, I’m forced to ask “What if…?” What if the Royal Pop had been earmarked for a summer 2027 release instead, and that this year’s big launch was actually the one that came across the transom last week? The new “What If…Jelly?” is one of my favorite types of Swatch releases: those that remind us that what the brand does best are not the intra-group collabs like the MoonSwatch or big hype pieces like the Royal Pop, but the colorful, purely original designs that could only b...
Time+Tide
A watch made to go fast, this new collaboration brings two icons of the motor racing world together on your wrist.
Fratello
You want to relax this summer. You want to go to a nice place and chill, re-energize, and enjoy life without a worry in the world. And what is your biggest worry? No, it’s not picking the right summer watch. As always, it’s the kids. Napping on the beach, for example? With one eye on […] Visit Fratello Summer Tip: Keep Track Of Your Kids With Cybex Collection Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
Every collection has one — the watch that sits quietly at the back of the box, rarely seeing wrist time, never quite fitting the rhythm of daily life. Mine is a Universal Genève Ferrovie dello Stato Mark II, and I would not part with it for the world. Go ahead and open your watch box […] Visit What’s The Watch You The Least, And Why Do You Still Have It? to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Happy Friday, Ballers, and I hope everyone's buckled in for what looks to be some excellent football (and, if you were lucky enough to catch the England v Mexico match, you've already seen some of the best ever). Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Million "Sherpa Cousin" sells on Sunday the 12th, the 18k Omega Constellation ref 2648 sold for €4218 all-in, the Sarpaneva x Moomin went for $8,800, and the Vacheron Constantin 4111 with the 'washed' dial sold for €100,000. Strays It feels like Seiko 6139s are a sort of necessary step in early collecting. They're lovely vintage watches; there are lots of them out there, and, unless you're hankering for a flawless Resist-dialed Pogue, they're fairly reasonable. This week, Goodwill has a blue-dialed 6139-6005, and it's not only in very good shape but also early in the model run, which you can tell from the 'notch' case (the small cutout for the crown) and the early Z bracelet. Photo courtesy of Goodwill. If you're on the hunt for vintage steel-cased time-only beauties, this Jaeger-LeCoultre sure seems excellent, ditto this Favre-Leuba Daymatic, or this Movado with its bit of patina, and if those aren't quite your tune, there's this NOS Tissot, serviced in 2026, which, yes, is small (31mm), but I dare you to click that link and not get a little distracted by the watch's pristine condition. Rossini's auction on the 11th is chock-full of goodies, but the ones I kept returning to were this RAID edition Speedmaster (if this ...
Hodinkee
In 2020, watches became a real escape for a lot of us. Instagram, Facebook groups, even Clubhouse (who remembers that?) were thriving, and for me, watches had become more than a 9-5 as I fell deeper into those communities. It's where I first came across a guy on Facebook talking about a watch he'd designed that was 'inspired by a watermelon'. Every time it appeared, the comments filled with feedback as he gauged whether people were actually interested. They were. And now, six years later, that man, Richard Benc of Studio Underd0g, has just opened the doors to his very own watch assembly workshop here in the UK called 'The D0ghouse'. Roughly 45 minutes by train from Central London, the building in Maidenhead is a fusion of creative interior design and legitimate horological assembly, and anyone can experience the process first-hand. For £700, Studio Underd0g will sit you at a watchmaker's bench and guide you through the assembly of your own watch. What they're offering isn't a tour or just a showroom (they have that on-site, too), but a set of tweezers, a loupe, and an opportunity to experience the Underd0g, hands-on. That alone makes The D0ghouse worth the journey, but having just completed the experience myself, what I didn't expect was how much it would adjust my understanding of what this six-year-old brand has actually become. The Unassuming Townhouse From the outside, The D0ghouse is simply a Victorian townhouse on Park Street, the same address that Benc's friends an...
Fratello
We know Christopher Ward as a brand that always keeps new releases coming. With most of them, CW raises the bar of affordable timepieces time and again. But it’s not always about pushing the boundaries of technical development and production quality. If there is one thing that the brand understands well, it’s that it should […] Visit Christopher Ward Collaborates With The Dial Artist To Create The Twelve Xander to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
As Christopher Ward has grown in stature in recent years, it’s their most ambitious watches that have resonated the most with me, personally. Nothing against the Sealanders, Tridents, and the like, but the brand has really become interesting to me with watches like the Bel Canto and the Loco, and even the more artistic, design forward stuff like the C1 Moonphase. The Twelve collection falls into a middle ground, of sorts. The Loco, their most avant-garde watch, is built on the Twelve platform, but at its core it’s a fairly straightforward (though incredibly well made) integrated bracelet sports watch, something the hobby is not exactly in short supply of these days. But they occasionally stretch the bounds of the Twelve, exploring a variety of materials, ultra-thin case designs, and even finishing techniques. And that brings us to the latest release from the UK based brand, the all new The Twelve Xander, a 150 piece limited edition made in collaboration with The Dial Artist, otherwise known as Chris Alexander. Chris has been expanding his portfolio as of late, after getting his start in the watch world adding custom, graffiti inspired art to off-the-shelf watches. He’s now an in-demand collaborator, having worked with brands like Holthinrichs on completely original dial designs and executions. What makes this new project somewhat different is that there’s no actual “dial” for The Dial Artist to paint. The Twelve X is fully skeletonized, so Chris has added h...
Hodinkee
What We Know This week, Vacheron Constantin added two new 34.5mm Overseas models to the collection. There's a new version in steel with a red dial and a tone-on-tone version in 18k pink gold with a matching gold-toned dial. No, these new additions aren't the most groundbreaking introductions from Vacheron in recent times, but they are quite attractive and do well to flesh out the brand's small collection of mechanical mid-sized Overseas models. The distinct visual cues of the Overseas are all present on these models, with Vacheron's Maltese cross motif prominently shown on the bezel, crown, bracelet, and buckle. Proportions of certain elements like the bezel on this smaller Overseas feel quite thick, thanks to its relative sizing compared to the very compact overall dimensions of the watch, with a diameter of 34.5mm and a thickness of 9.33mm. Water resistance is rated to 150 meters, and there is a screw-down crown. Continuing the appeal of customization across the line, both versions come with three interchangeable straps: a full metal bracelet (with toolless micro-adjust), a rubber strap, and an alligator leather strap. The interchangeable strap options for the red dial Overseas. Though Vacheron is branding this as "a feminine take on sport-chic," the two executions released this week certainly can work on a wide array of wrists, thanks to eye-catching but versatile lacquered and sunray-brushed dials. The red dial of ref. 4600V/200A-H127 stands out, not just in hue, but a...
Monochrome
Face an inconvenient truth about dive watches. Even with their awesome water-resistance ratings and overengineered cases, most will never explore the bottom of the sea. Their rotating bezels are far more likely to time pasta, something in the oven or even a parking meter. French brand MAT Watches (Mer-Air-Terre) clearly understands this and, with a […]
Hodinkee
Any good tailor has a house style, or a few of them. You generally don't want a tailor who says they can do everything—Neapolitan, English, sack suit—as they rarely do it all that well. Variations on a theme are key to a tailor who knows how to cover the right amount of ground and deliver a good result. The house style, as it were, for The Armoury's recently launched house brand, Temporal Works, is a Patek Philippe 565 for the modern era. And if the 565 and a Hamilton Khaki field watch had a baby, it would look something like this: Temporal Works' new Series A "Rambler." The brand, along with its inaugural model, launched last November with the Series A 'Sector' in black or blue, or the Series A "Fortune Red" in stainless steel cases with Zaratsu-polished surfaces. When I hung out with Cho last fall, a while before the launch, he pulled a watch out of his pocket and showed it to me. "Oh! A 565," I remember saying. For whatever reason, in my busy schedule, it fell through the cracks for coverage. To be honest, they didn't hit me the same way as the new "Rambler" with its stainless-steel bead-blasted monoblock case. Temporal Works Series A 'Sector' Maybe there's just something more novel about a 565 that doesn't look that much like any 565 before it. With the sector dials (less so the red one), you can imagine a world in which Patek might have done something like this, even though they never experimented with color beyond black or a sector dial quite like this. The built...
SJX Watches
Being able to tap the collections of fabled museums like the Louvre, Vacheron Constantin recently revealed the second instalment of Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations. The collection once again comprises four watches inspired by the ancient world, spanning Assyria to the Roman Empire: Buste d’Akhénaton, Lamassu de Sargon II, Athéna de Velletrie, and Tiber de l’Iseum Campense. Each watch essentially contains a miniature replica of a statue from the Louvre that is surrounded by decoration in a variety of techniques ranging from enamelling to stone mosaic. Buste d’Akhénaton inspired by Ancient Egypt Initial thoughts VC rolls out a well-stocked Metiers d’Art collection every year, and the appeal is varied. The good ones, however, are great, usually combining multiple decorative techniques, artful aesthetic execution, and tremendous appeal. Boosting its Metiers d’Art programme, VC has inked agreements with world-class museums like the Louvre and the Met, which allow the brand to source inspiration from the vast troves of objects housed in these institutions. All of that is captured in the latest Tribute To Great Civilisations, which qualifies as amongst the best Metiers d’Art offerings from VC. Each of the watches in the quartet manages to evoke the civilisations and objects that served as inspiration. Tiber de l’Iseum Campense of the Roman Empire While striking from a distance, each watch still reveals an impressive degree of detail up close. Mos...
WristBuzz
From a €120 flag-themed G-Shock all the way up to a €9k Omega Spectre, here are seven watches that hit the red-white-blue brief without looking like a costume. Steel Pepsi Rolexes, patriotic Hamilton chronographs and a Fossil that shows up to every cookout.
Fratello
In all four seasons of the Fratello Talks podcast, we’ve never dedicated an episode to watch dials. We thought it was about time to change that. The dial is one of the most important parts of a watch, as it’s the “face” that gets the most attention when checking the time. It often draws the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Texture, Color, Stone — Let’s Talk Dials to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: A break this week from reader submissions of our ongoing 3 for 5k column to make room for an entry from Worn & Wound contributor Cait Bazemore. Cait is a watch industry veteran and her choices reflect her experience in the space in an interesting way. Specifically, they are all tied to her connections with the people behind the brands. This is a phenomenon most of us who work in watches for any length of time eventually come to understand. It just feels good to support the people we connect with (even when it’s hypothetical support for a Worn & Wound column). And honestly, this isn’t exclusive to watch industry professionals. Anyone who has attended a Windup event or any other watch fair and taken a minute to speak with a brand owner can probably relate. Today, I notch another rite of passage as a contributor at Worn & Wound: my three-watch collection for under $5,000. The mission is clear, but I have to be honest, it was much more challenging than I expected. This exercise taught me a lot about myself, what I value, and how that actually translates to a dollar figure. I’ll confess, I realized a majority of my most desired watches sit around the $2,700 to $3,300 range – multiply that times three, and the total is well over the $5,000 mark. I had to carefully consider three timepieces that fell roughly around $1,500 each and that would make a well-rounded three-watch collection: a dress watch, a sport watch, and a wild card seemed like obvious ...
Time+Tide
Awake introduces the a new style to its sơn mài lacquer dials with the Frosted Leaf Royal Blue, adding 24k gold leaf to the process
Fratello
Frederique Constant’s Moneta line has been received with great applause from the watch community. The formal design with its distinguishing internal reeded ring rubbed many enthusiasts, including me, the right way. Today, I get a chance to go hands-on with the latest edition, the solar-powered Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre. It makes me wonder: is this […] Visit Is The Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre The Perfect Outlier Dress Watch For Your Collection? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Launched in 2020, the Antarctique is Czapek’s distinctive take on the integrated luxury sports watch powered by the brand’s first in-house calibre. Although the Antarctique has embraced complications, the go-to model is the more straightforward time-only reference, often featuring textured dials, like the successful Passage de Drake editions. Following the Antarctique Green Meteor, Czapek proposes […]
Monochrome
Greubel Forsey, the high-end independent brand founded in 2004, has long been associated with multi-axis tourbillons, often staged in enormous, asymmetric cases with protrusions to accommodate the mechanics and offer panoramic views. The first model to appear without a tourbillon was the Balancier, equipped with an enormous 12.6mm dial-side balance wheel. Ever evolving, the latest […]
Monochrome
The Ocean Star collection has been part of Mido‘s catalogue since 1944, which today has become a solid and affordable choice for those wanting a dive watch with clear legibility, robust construction, and reliable mechanical performance. More recently, the Ocean Star 200C introduced ceramic bezels, colourful dials, and presented a more refined take on the […]
Fratello
Panerai continues its official partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs with a new Submersible. The watch’s 44mm stainless steel case has the brand’s characteristic cushion shape and a matte black ceramic unidirectional bezel. Following the ultra-limited Afniotech Experience model, this release extracts key design cues in a more grounded steel package. Crucially, PAM01738 skips the […] Visit Panerai Launches The Rugged Yet Reined-In Submersible Navy SEALs PAM01738 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Concept cars are where carmakers and designers go wild and create the craziest, most unhinged experimental vehicles you can imagine. They often showcase never-before-seen technology and ideas, provide a glimpse into design elements for future production cars, or downright do something outrageous for the sake of being outrageous. Most of these are relegated to a […]
Hodinkee
It was about halfway through James Cameron's speech on the Rolex Landing at the new National Geographic Museum of Exploration in Washington, D.C., that I glanced up. There, suspended above my head, was a familiar yellow object. To the uninitiated (and less nerdy), it might look like an alien spaceship from a low-budget sci-fi film. But I knew what it was immediately: Jacques Cousteau's soucoupe, the diving saucer from his 1964 documentary, "World Without Sun." As I listened to Cameron go on about his descent to Challenger Deep, I looked around at all these incredible objects—there was the bathysphere that William Beebe climbed into and descended to over 3,000 feet in 1934. Down the hall, the Maruti Suzuki 4x4 used by Sandesh Kadur to track wildlife in India, its tires still muddy. A dugout canoe, once upended by a hippo, used by Steve Boyes while searching for the source of the Zambezi. A Chinese terra cotta warrior. And a one-atmosphere JIM suit like the one in which Dr. Sylvia Earle walked 1,000 feet deep on the ocean floor. For a student of exploration history like me, this was nothing short of nirvana. Rolex has been a supporting partner to the National Geographic Society since 1954. Those were halcyon days for exploration and the introduction of Rolex's most legendary tool watches—the Explorer, the Submariner, and the GMT-Master. The names Rolex and National Geographic have been intertwined ever since, and I, for one, recall seeing those great print ads in the...
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