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The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025 SJX Watches
Seiko Power Design Project Returns Jan 2, 2025

The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025

Building on the success of the Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches, an annual design-focused exhibition inaugurated last year, Seiko has just opened the 2025 event Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district. Open from now till February 16, 2025, this year’s exhibition delves further into combining watchmaking and design in innovative and whimsical ways to create concept watches that are distinct from the brand’s conventional offerings. Amongst the watches designed by six of Seiko’s designers is one conceived for the perfect boiled egg, and even a watch for a vampire that distinguishes between day and night. The “Vampire” watch, distinguished by its red dial and gemstone-accented bezel Among the exhibition’s other notable creations is a “tool watch” for a ninja. Entirely in black, this tells the time in a tactile manner. It’s even paired with a wrap-around strap inspired by the traditional Japanese archery glove. Featuring an all-black aesthetic that evokes the stealth of a ninja. Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches 2 takes place from December 20, 2024 to February 16, 2025, at Seiko Seed, an exhibition space owned by the watchmaker. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am-8:00 pm daily (with the last admission at 7:45 pm). Admission is free. Seiko Seed Harajuku 1-14-30 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo For more, visit seiko-design.com.  

A Condensed Guide To Grand Seiko Releases From 2024 Fratello
Grand Seiko Releases From 2024 Happy Jan 1, 2025

A Condensed Guide To Grand Seiko Releases From 2024

Happy New Year, everyone! I hope you celebrated in style last night! As you may know, every year, we recap all the Seiko and Grand Seiko releases we covered here on Fratello. Last week, we published an overview of all the 2024 Seiko releases we wrote about. This time, we’ll focus on the Grand Seiko […] Visit A Condensed Guide To Grand Seiko Releases From 2024 to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Orion Sylph Worn & Wound
Seiko NH movements- Dec 23, 2024

Hands-On: the Orion Sylph

I have a confession: I previously dismissed Orion for the wrong reasons. As an avid collector of microbrands, somewhere along the way I subconsciously created an arbitrary value scale based solely on movements. Collecting primarily in the sub $500 range, most watches that have passed through my watchbox have been powered by Seiko NH movements- the long reigning king of budget friendly 3rd party workhouse movements. On the occasions that I crossed that $500 threshold, I’ve been conditioned to expect a Miyota 9000 series, slightly more expensive, and considered an upgrade largely thanks to an extra two beats per second and the resulting sweeping second hand. Truth be told, I could care less about beat rates, but owning something deemed more premium is hard to pass up. It’s this human desire for the seemingly better thing that led me to shy away from Miyota powered watches over $700. Afterall, having $700 to drop on a microbrand opens up the option to own a watch powered by a Sellita SW200, a Swiss movement synonymous with luxury. Of course, this is a deeply flawed way to collect watches and judge value. And, (spoiler alert) a guaranteed way to miss out on value-packed brands that don’t blow their entire budget on a movement. After spending time with Orion’s Miyota 9039 powered Sylph collection, which hovers just over $700 like much of their catalog, I’ve gained a new appreciation for brands that prioritize finishing and design over being the best bargain by spec sh...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Dec 19, 2024

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel

As this year is coming to a close, it becomes apparent that a leitmotif of 2024 were artisanal dials ranging from hand-engraved, enamelled or even silk-inlaid. Louis Vuitton now takes its turn with the Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel, a simple, three-hand watch endowed with a complex and impressive dial made by hand. Initial thoughts Perhaps reflecting Louis Vuitton’s emphasis on haute horlogerie and independent watchmaking, the new Escale feels more like something from an independent maker, rather than a timepiece made by a luxury giant. This kind of artisan-oriented creation reiterates Louis Vuitton’s focus on horological craft, which is also the motivation behind the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The deep blue sector-style dial feels organic thanks to the radial guilloché under translucent enamel. Beyond the artisanal nature of the dial, the design is thoughtful, with its proportions giving the face a classical composition. The brushed chapter ring with milled dots for markers evokes the minute tracks found in 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The classical styling is combined with Louis Vuitton’s own design cues like the faux rivets on the case band), which makes for a surprisingly pleasant combination.   A dial crafted by four artisans The complexity of the dial stems from different finishing techniques being combined to produce a seemingly simple design with a mesmerising effect. Each dial is crafted by four artisans,...

Hands On: Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion As Urwerk Dec 18, 2024

Hands On: Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion

As Urwerk has matured as a brand, its products have evolved to become more wearable. The recently launched UR-150 Scorpion embodies this evolution. The UR-150 incorporates the familiar Urwerk time display – but with a retrograde twist – but in a sleeker, curved case that hugs the wrist. Initial thoughts The UR-150 continues the emphasis on wearability established by the compact UR-100. The UR-150 is bigger and bolder, but despite its size, the curved case profile allows it to sit well on the wrist. This contrasts with many of Urwerk’s past models, which tended to have wide, flat case backs that were less ergonomic. The curved case also looks good, especially since it continues the line of the domed sapphire crystal. This design moderates the hyper-mechanical aesthetic of many Urwerk models, leaving the UR-150 a little more elegant, albeit in a war machine-like way. In some ways, the UR-150 seems descended from the UR-100. It has a similar tonneau shape, but more streamlined. And it has the signature satellite disc wandering hours, but enhanced with a retrograde minute hand (that’s no doubt borrowed from the UR-210/220/230). The combination of the retrograde minutes with the satellite disc display is notable for Urwerk as the brand historically kept this time display on its simpler watches, while the top-of-the-line satellite cube display was accompanied by the retrograde indicator. This leaves the UR-150 as something of a bridge between two distinct lines of the br...

My Year in Watches: Outgrowing Your Author Bio Worn & Wound
Dec 17, 2024

My Year in Watches: Outgrowing Your Author Bio

In today’s “My Year in Watches” editorial, contributor Nathan Schultz reflects on how his perspective as a collector changed (for the better) in 2024. It’s been two years since I pitched my first article to Worn & Wound. The concept for Why Every Parent Needs A Tool Watch was simple: to share a light hearted take on how robust purpose built watches can be incorporated into everyday life. The article is ripe with evidence of the admiration I once felt for tool watches. Reading it again with fresh eyes, I was in awe of their ability to operate at depths that would quickly kill any person wearing them, and smitten with their noisy rotating bezels that served as both useful gadgets and fidget spinners that inspired me to look for every opportunity to incorporate their intriguing ruggedness into my life. To my surprise, my rambling pitch was accepted, and I was asked to submit a brief bio to accompany the article. I excitedly hammered out three short sentences that summed up my current mentality as an experienced writer and gear enthusiast that was taking a stab at shoehorning watches into those existing interests. Here is what I landed on: Nathan Schultz is a New Hampshire based writer, equally obsessed with watches and outdoor gear. He specializes in dad jokes, breaking NH35s while modifying watches, and testing the limits of recreational equipment. Micro brands hold a special place in his heart, and he aspires to stop buying and selling so many darn watches. At the t...

Fratello On Air: Questionable Vintage Watches Fratello
Dec 17, 2024

Fratello On Air: Questionable Vintage Watches

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. In this episode, we stray from our original topic and discuss questionable vintage watches. Lately, too many questionable watches have received universal praise from “noted experts.” We get on the topic after approximately 15 minutes. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. […] Visit Fratello On Air: Questionable Vintage Watches to read the full article.

The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Dec 15, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians

Originally conceived for pilots of the US military (and covered here by Fratello), the Omega Speedmaster Pilot is now available to civilians. The origins of the watch explain the military-influenced, instrument-style dial design, which is meant to evoke the utilitarian nature of an instrument panel inside a fighter jet. The regular production version of the watch retains the same specs as the military exclusive, but with different livery. The case has the straight lugs of the Speedmaster “Ed White” but in a larger format thanks to the automatic cal. 9900 inside. Initial thoughts I’m something of an outlier amongst enthusiasts since I prefer automatic to manual-wind, even within the Speedmaster collection. While a manual-wind movement is traditional for the Speedy, I appreciate the day-to-day convenience of an automatic. Additionally, Omega’s latest-generation automatic chronograph movements are all impressively high-spec. While the Speedmaster Pilot may not achieve the same aesthetic purity as its manual-wind counterparts, it remains an excellent everyday option, especially with the military provenance. That said, the military provenance is not exactly military-issue. The watch was designed for military pilots who presumably buy it on a personal basis for off-duty wear; it is not an actual mil-spec instrument watch. This can be seen in the dial design, which has aviation-inspired elements, rather than actual, functional indicators for pilots. Even though this is m...

First Look - The Bovet Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Becomes Sleeker with Sapphire Dials Monochrome
Bovet Dec 12, 2024

First Look - The Bovet Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Becomes Sleeker with Sapphire Dials

Bovet’s watchmaking universe is characterised by incredibly complex timepieces staged with dramatic flair and decorated to unparalleled standards. Founded in 1822, Pascal Raffy breathed new life into Bovet to create a highly niche connoisseur brand. While classical complications and centuries-old decorative techniques abound, Bovet is no stranger to the potential of sapphire crystals and luminescence […]

Introducing - The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché Dec 12, 2024

Introducing - The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Following a drastic change of strategy in recent years, Louis Vuitton‘s watchmaking division is being primed to become a serious player. As part of the new strategy, Arnault has taken the flagship Tambour watch, launched in 2002, and revisited it as a luxury sports watch, while the Louis Vuitton Escale was reintroduced as a time-only […]

The Urwerk UR-230 Arrives in White Ceramic Composite SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-230 Arrives Dec 11, 2024

The Urwerk UR-230 Arrives in White Ceramic Composite

Urwerk is best known for its all-black, sci-fi watches, so the UR-230 Polaris departs from the norm. Cased in white ceramic composite, the UR-230 Polaris incorporates several advancement in terms of materials: the white case is milled from a proprietary fibreglass-reinforced ceramic that is more resistant to impact than conventional ceramic. Notably, the material was developed in-house according to Urwerk. Initial thoughts Although Urwerk has introduced many iterations of the UR-210/220/230, the Polaris is arguably the most interesting to date because of the material. It retains the familiar design of the series, but represents an achievement for Urwerk with the proprietary ceramic-fibreglass composite. The fact that Urwerk is going beyond complications and case design is laudable. The composite addresses one of the weakness of pure ceramic, which is vaunted for its durability and immunity to scratches – that very hardness makes it fragile. Dropped onto a hard surface, for instance, ceramic may crack or break. Moreover, such damage is impossible to repair, making case replacement necessary (and inevitably expensive). The UR-230 Polaris is more expensive than the other models in the series that sport conventions case materials. The higher price is arguably justified considering the new material, although if this new material makes its way into more affordable Urwerk models, then the material would lose some of its novelty. Satellite complication Fibreglass-reinforced cera...

Go To Travel Options, A Boutique Exclusive Deal, And Shining a Diffused Light Worn & Wound
Dec 8, 2024

Go To Travel Options, A Boutique Exclusive Deal, And Shining a Diffused Light

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up.As always, the Windup Watch Team is available to consult with you and answer any questions. In addition, all these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up.As always, the Windup Watch Team is available to consult with you and answer any questions. In addition, all these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Go To Travel Options, A Boutique Exclusive Deal, And Shining a Diffused Light appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Up Close: Biver Automatique SJX Watches
Dec 6, 2024

Up Close: Biver Automatique

The second watch launched by Biver, the Automatique is a three-hand time-only, functionally simple but elaborately executed. Even the base model has a surprisingly complex dial, but the Automatique is really all about the JCB-003 movement, which is a micro-rotor calibre that ranks up there as one of most impressive recent self-winding movements. Established by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver got its start with a far more complicated watch, but the Automatique is arguably more impressive because it’s a simple watch executed in a complicated yet cohesive manner. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts Yet another time-only watch with a dressed up movement and hefty price tag – the formula feels a little worn out now. So the Biver Automatique surprises on the upside. I like it. The design is appealing and cohesive, while the movement is impressive. In contrast, when Biver debuted with the Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater, I thought “the quality is unmistakeable, the aesthetics are lacking”. The Automatique lives up to the same levels of quality – and maybe even more – but it is instinctively appealing, even considering the price. The solid gold dial of the entry-level version in rose gold Even though Biver is not an artisanal independent brand in the conventional sense of the word since neither of its founders are watchmakers, the JCB-003 movement is executed to a standard that equals many artisanal independents. The construction is thoughtful and sophisticate...

Fratelli Stories: Retrieving NASA Rocket Boosters While Wearing A Seiko Fratello
Seiko Our Fratelli Stories series Dec 4, 2024

Fratelli Stories: Retrieving NASA Rocket Boosters While Wearing A Seiko

Our Fratelli Stories series shares some of the wonderful and interesting backstories of our readers around the world. Today, we speak with Robert Eames, who is an enthusiast for all sorts of watches and has a fascinating backstory. One vintage Seiko has particular resonance with him. Fratello reader Robert Eames wrote in after a story […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Retrieving NASA Rocket Boosters While Wearing A Seiko to read the full article.

Casio Just Re-Released The Very First G-Shock Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer can make Dec 3, 2024

Casio Just Re-Released The Very First G-Shock

Casio's G-Shock brand is celebrating a big birthday this year. And much like many industries, it is taking its 40th anniversary as a chance to look to the past, to get nostalgic, to wax digital. The thing is, while a brand like TAG Heuer can make a statement with the launch of the KITH F1 watches in near ‘80-faithful form, or even one like Timex can reissue the IronMan in a 1:1 configuration (JDM only; sorry, USA), Casio is in a bit of tough spot…for a good reason. I think of the G-Shock like the affordable, digital version of the Omega Speedmaster "Moonwatch," a watch whose design has been altered but, in many ways, has effectively been in uninterrupted production since the 1960s – and we love it for that reason. Similarly, through models like the modern DW-5600, Casio has been producing some manner of the original G-Shock since, um, the birth of G-Shock four decades ago. And again, we love that. I mean, people really love that. I even own a DW-5600 and I’m not what you might call a G-Shock guy, or a G-shocker, or whatever it is you call it (to be honest, people probably don’t call it anything). This has been a deeply circuitous route to saying that the brand has released a throwback G-Shock to celebrate its own birthday which is essentially a reissue of the very first G-Shock. And all of my preamble is to illustrate that, at first blush, you probably don’t notice anything massive here. But like any release worthy of watch nerdery, the devil is in the resin...

Up Close: Aigaki Debuts with the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon SJX Watches
Dec 2, 2024

Up Close: Aigaki Debuts with the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon

Founded by a Japanese transplant to Switzerland, Aigaki is making its debut with the impressive Direct-Impulse Tourbillon. Though relatively youthful, brand founder Takahiko Aigaki is a watchmaker of the old school who developed the watch and then makes almost all of it by hand. Produced almost entirely in Takahiko Aigaki’s own home-workshop with hand-operated tools, the Tourbillon is characterised by its hand-engraved silver dial and a finely-finished movement combining unique architecture with a proprietary escapement. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Aigaki on Instagram for several months, having become intrigued by the unusual in-line architecture of the movement, and its symmetrical direct-impulse escapement. Initially, only the movement components were shown, but even this sneak peak was enough to pique my interest. Now that the watch has been unveiled, I feel like it was worth the wait. The Tourbillon is a compact, 37 mm timepiece with a clean aesthetic and domed crystal that lends it something of a vintage feel. On its face, the appearance is simple, but the watch instantly conveys the sensation of a finely-crafted object, especially when you turn it over. But even on the front, the details of the dial give away the fact that it is hand-made. Interestingly, there is no ink or paint used on the dial. All of the dial markings and elements are hand-engraved using traditional tools; the brand name is engraved with a hand-operated pantograph. The Tourbillon is v...

5 Super-Versatile and Value-Packed Watches at Every Price Point Worn & Wound
Dec 1, 2024

5 Super-Versatile and Value-Packed Watches at Every Price Point

5 Watches You Can’t Miss at Every Price-point As watch enthusiasts, the only thing that’s better than a new watch, is getting a great deal on said new watch. Whether you’re looking to add something to an existing collection or start a new one, we’ve curated a selection of our top picks across multiple price points, and we’re super excited to share them with you. Regardless of price, these watches are packed full of features making them the perfect gift this holiday season! 5 Watches You Can’t Miss at Every Price-point As watch enthusiasts, the only thing that’s better than a new watch, is getting a great deal on said new watch. Whether you’re looking to add something to an existing collection or start a new one, we’ve curated a selection of our top picks across multiple price points, and we’re super excited to share them with you. Regardless of price, these watches are packed full of features making them the perfect gift this holiday season! The post 5 Super-Versatile and Value-Packed Watches at Every Price Point appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Exhibition: ‘Cartier, The Power of Magic’ in Shanghai SJX Watches
Cartier Nov 29, 2024

Exhibition: ‘Cartier, The Power of Magic’ in Shanghai

Now open at the Shanghai Museum East, Cartier, the Power of Magic is an exhibition that comes exactly two decades after the jeweller’s first-ever exhibition in China. Made up of over 300 jewels and objects from the Cartier Collection and museums around the world, the exhibition explores Chinese art, Cartier’s history, and the influence of Chinese culture on the jeweller’s creations. Pierre Rainero, Cartier Image, Style and Heritage Director, describes the exhibition as “distinctly more analytical, taking a fresh look at the bonds uniting China and Cartier, and also at a relatively unexplored yet intrinsic aspect of jewellery: magic.” A desk clock with an imperial dragon motif sold by Cartier New York in 1925 A pair of 1920s Cartier screen clocks flanking a Qing Qianlong period jade table screen Chu Xiaobao, the Director of the Shanghai Museum, highlighted the significance of the exhibition, “The concept of Cartier, which goes beyond the art of jewellery to capture the eternal beauty, bears a striking resemblance to the timeless value of ancient Chinese art”. Notably, the aesthetics for the exhibition were devised by the artificial intelligence model cAI, which was created by Chinese contemporary artist Cai Guo-Qiang and his studio. The backdrop of the exhibitions are traditional Chinese landscapes combined with Chinese courtyard manuscripts generated by the AI. But Mr Cai’s presentation also encompasses physical objects, which were crafted in ceramic and st...

First Look - The Brellum Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer, With a new Movement Inside Monochrome
Nov 29, 2024

First Look - The Brellum Pandial Bicompax Black DLC Ti Chronometer, With a new Movement Inside

A relatively young and independently-ran brand, Brellum specializes in sporty chronographs, all produced in limited editions, with a maximum capacity of only 299 units per year and exclusively direct sales to final customers. A deliberate choice that’s made the brand an enthusiast-driven project with a strong base. Following the refreshing Duobox 39mm a couple of […]

Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million Nov 28, 2024

Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity

For its third outing supporting the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, F.P. Journe created a unique Chronomètre à Résonance that sold for S$4.00 million – equivalent to US$2.98 million – during the charity’s annual gala dinner in Singapore. As a friend of the Monegasque ruler, François-Paul Journe has long supported his namesake charity. Now once of the most valuable recent F.P. Journe watches ever sold, the Resonance follows the LineSport Rattrapante of 2018 and the Chronometre Optimum of 2022, which have cumulatively raised several million for the charity that supports environmental causes around the world. Echoing the livery of the Optimum of 2022, the unique Resonance has a platinum case with a burgundy dial and ruthenium sub-dials. Notably, two forms of Chinese characters: modern simplified Chinese characters on the right sub-dial, while the left register has markings in oracle bone script, the oldest form of written Chinese. The movement is engraved on the barrel bridge: “S.A.S. Albert II Singapore 2024” More than double the result of the Optimum in 2022, the big number for the Resonance is no surprise given the recent record-setting sale of the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype. This arguably demonstrates that F.P. Journe has gone beyond a watchmaker or even watches, but a brand. This desirability of the F.P. Journe brand is reflected in not just the value, but how easily and quickly it was achieved at the auction during the dinner event. Thoma...

Introducing - A Brand New Ressence Collection, the Compact Type 9 Grey and Aqua Monochrome
Ressence Collection Nov 28, 2024

Introducing - A Brand New Ressence Collection, the Compact Type 9 Grey and Aqua

Two years after introducing the Type 8, its most minimalist time-only watch, Belgian independent watchmaker Ressence expands the concept with the launch of the new Type 9. Like all Ressence creations, the latest model incorporates the brand’s patented ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System) display module, with time indicated via revolving sub-dials – the so-called “beyond […]

First Look - The Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is a Genuine Grand Slam Memento Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Nov 27, 2024

First Look - The Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is a Genuine Grand Slam Memento

Hublot has always been associated with the fusion of disparate materials, starting with Carlo Crocco’s surprising cocktail of a gold case and rubber strap on board the flagship Classic Original. Hublot’s latest watch dedicated to tennis legend Novak Djokovic takes the “art of fusion” to unimaginable levels and even slips in the much-desired sustainability card. […]

Hands-On: the Circula Facet Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer amongst others Nov 27, 2024

Hands-On: the Circula Facet

The eagle-eyed watch enthusiast may have noticed a theme shift on the Circula website very recently. A new layout, new graphics, even a new logo. No, this is not some quarterly refresh, but rather a sign of things to come. Enter the Facet. A new flagship model from the brand positioned as an elevated everyday or dress watch following in the integrated bracelet sport watch wave that has swept throughout the industry. Now, the Facet may not technically have an integrated bracelet (it’s available on a strap as well), though it certainly leans into a similar look and feel. While this might be an introductory piece for a portion of this audience, Circula is a brand that has been on my radar for a while now with the Protrail Field watch making its way into my collection. I can honestly say too that I was a fan of the former direction of the brand, aiming to provide good value in the roughly $1,000 sports watch segment of the market. So, does this departure from the previous trend towards another signal my exit from the bandwagon or blow a signal for full steam ahead? Let’s face it, the landscape of the watch industry has changed creating a more crowded and competitive market than we have ever seen before. In an effort to stand out, Cornelius Huber, the current caretaker of Circula and 3rd generation at the helm, has partnered with designer Guy Bove, previously of TAG Heuer amongst others, in designing the Facet to stand out in the pack. Utilizing new finishing techniques, a ...