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Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton DEPLOYANT May 23, 2022

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton

Vacheron Constantin has had a blast at Watches & Wonder 2022, releasing a whole gamut of watches that reminds us why the luxury Swiss watchmaking Maison is known as the “grand dame of watchmaking”. From complicated and artistically stunning Les Cabinotiers pieces, to the faithful reissue of the legendary Ref. 222 sports watch that’s beenRead More

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team” Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 May 15, 2022

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team”

Launched at the inaugural Miami F1 Grand Prix, the new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team” is the next step in the partnership between the Schaffhausen manufacture and the team, dating back to 2013 when IWC first became a team sponsor. It’s the first-ever official watch for the team – … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph in Mint Green and Titanium SJX Watches
IWC Introduces May 5, 2022

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph in Mint Green and Titanium

Facelifted in 2021 with a slimmed-down case that went from 43 mm to 41 mm, the IWC Pilot’s chronograph is a longstanding bestseller that’s now more wearable. The watchmaker has now created an online-only edition of the watch for its F1 partner, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Edition”. Conceived to celebrate the inaugural Miami Grand Prix, the new chronograph is the first official team watch, meaning it will be worn by all team members ranging from mechanics to strategists. It’s naturally dressed in the team’s signature colour, the green of its title sponsor, Petronas. Initial thoughts The overall design for the new chronograph appears almost identical similar to the standard model, except for the colour. But a few additions reveal themselves up close, including the sandblasted titanium case, which set it apart from IWC’s current offerings. The case material is notable – no other Pilot’s chronograph has a sandblasted titanium case – and sensible choice for a “instrument” watch. It makes the F1 team edition lighter than its counterparts in the Pilot’s Watch line, which the matte, grained surface suits the functional spirit of the watch. And the metal also makes sense given the Formula One context since titanium is widely used in automotive engineering due to its corrosion resistance and high strength-to-density ratio. But it is the mint green that makes the watch truly unique. The green livery will be ap...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 30, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater

A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled their first minute repeater in 2013, in the form of the Grand Complication. It took two more years for the unveiling of a simpler – yet still complex – model in the form of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. Finally, seven years later, Lange unveils the Richard Lange Minute Repeater – a no-frills, classical three-hander with the coveted chiming feature. Initial Impressions Surprisingly slim and impressive in terms of acoustics, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater feels like a conservative release from the brand, but one that is much needed in the brand’s lineup – especially for those looking for a classically-styled minute repeater compared to the Zeitwerk. At first glance, it feels like an odd watch relative to the rest of Lange’s catalogue – we’ve taken for granted that Lange usually designs movement that are distinctively unique, especially for complications. In fact, the minute repeater mechanism and overall layout feel like a traditional Swiss calibre, albeit one with a German aesthetic. This can be forgiven as there’s only so many ways to design a minute repeater in a classic three-hander. And the brand still innovates – the repeater has practical high-end features compared to most of its peers, such as safety mechanisms and eliminating the pauses between the hour and minute strike. But arguably the best quality of the watch is its tactile feel. It feels and sounds good on the wrist – the case is unusually thin for a La...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith Time+Tide
Zenith Hey there Time+Tide readers Feb 25, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith

Hey there Time+Tide readers, This is Ricardo and I’m going to hijack Zach’s Friday Wind Down to broadcast this urgent message. WATCH MEETUPS ARE BACK BABY! This past week, the pandemic stars aligned and I was able to safely attend the release party for Worn and Wound’s 10-year anniversary piece; a Seiko 5 pilot watch. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Molnar Fabry Transforms a 19th Century Minute Repeater into a Wristwatch SJX Watches
Feb 16, 2022

Molnar Fabry Transforms a 19th Century Minute Repeater into a Wristwatch

Founded by a Slovakian duo who are both trained jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in elaborately decorated watches built on existing movements. Last year the pair reworked a Vaucher automatic calibre, but the brand’s latest project started life over a century ago. Echoing one of Molnar Fabry’s creations from 2018, the Grand Master Minute Repeater is essentially a pocket watch converted into a wristwatch. Starting out as a C.H. Meylan minute repeating pocket watch from 1901, the Grand Master features a hand-made case containing the pocket watch movement, which has been entirely refinished and extensively engraved. A close-up of the heavily decorated movement Initial thoughts Molnar Fabry does high quality work especially in terms of decoration, both for movement components and engraving. Their style is usual ornate, which might not be to everyone’s taste, but the brand has shown versatility in its past work, which has included more streamlined designs. The Grand Master is definitely ornate with its fully engraved case and movement. The quality and thoroughness of the work is impressive. And relatively to its ballpark price, the Grand Master is priced reasonably compared to what better-known makers in Switzerland would charge. But as with many pocket watch conversions, the Grand Master is a huge watch. The case is 47 mm by 14 mm. For anyone who likes their watches on this scale – and appreciates the skill that went into the decoration – the Grand Master is off t...

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG SJX Watches
Nov 7, 2021

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG

A member of Switzerland’s diplomatic corps for some two decades – he was the Swiss Consul General in New York City until 2007 – Raymond Loretan was tapped to become the President of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Just before the 2021 awards ceremony took place in Geneva, we sat down with Mr Loretan to get his thoughts on how the GPHG has evolved and where it is going. Raymond Loretan making the opening speech at the 2021 GPHG ceremony. Photo – GPHG Benjamin Teisseire: You have overseen profound changes at the GPHG since you took over as president in 2018. Is everything going as planned? Raymond Loretan: So far yes. We created the Academy last year and it represents a big change in paradigm for the Grand Prix. It worked well with the 350 members but with some glitches, which we have now learned from. This year, it worked even more smoothly with over 500 members of the Academy. No technical issues with the digital platforms and academicians were involved at all stages in the selection process. But the goal is to double this number of academicians in the next two to three years. That’s because it is the way to assert the three principles on which the Grand Prix is built. First of all is the Neutrality that has been questioned in the past. With this new way of working, this important pillar will be guaranteed. The second one is Universality. The more people coming from all over the world, the better this diversity will be represented. And it...

My top five watches from WatchTime New York 2021 Time+Tide
Oct 27, 2021

My top five watches from WatchTime New York 2021

Imagine walking into a building and coming face to face with some of the biggest brands and independent watchmakers in horology. Well, that’s exactly what I was lucky enough to do last weekend while attending WatchTime New York. It’s an annual event located within the vast Grand Ballroom of New York City’s Gotham Hall. It … ContinuedThe post My top five watches from WatchTime New York 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: With its first movement, the Bremont Longitude is a statement of bold intent Time+Tide
Bremont Longitude Oct 21, 2021

INTRODUCING: With its first movement, the Bremont Longitude is a statement of bold intent

In July, Bremont announced the grand opening of The Wing, a 35,000 square foot, state-of-the-art watchmaking facility on the edge of Henley-on-Thames. This was a statement of intent for the British brand as part of a move towards increased in-house production of parts without the reliance on a non-domestic supply chain. But delving behind The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: With its first movement, the Bremont Longitude is a statement of bold intent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R

A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time Quill & Pad
Trilobe Oct 10, 2021

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time

Trilobe, in collaboration with French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, created a clock with an aesthetic designed to jar you awake for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction. And Trilobe's Nuit Fantastique, currently competing in the Petite Aiguille category of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, represents the next step in aesthetic direction for Trilobe. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look at both.

Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator in Lapis, Malachite, and Aventurine SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Aug 31, 2021

Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator in Lapis, Malachite, and Aventurine

Louis Erard has embarked on a journey into the realm of special dials lately, starting with grand feu enamel and followed by hand-made guilloche – done affordably as is typical of the brand. And now Louis Erard is continuing apace with Excellence Régulateur featuring dials in lapis lazuli, malachite, or aventurine glass. But this time, however, the special dials are different. Louis Erard has opted for its signature regulator-style display, instead of the time-only format used on earlier editions, adding more character to the exotic-material dials.  Initial thoughts Regulators have long been a specialty of Louis Erard, and it’s a complication that’s uncommon this price point, especially a regulator with in-line hours, minutes, and seconds. The regulator watch has been the base for several interesting limited editions, especially the collabs with Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. Despite not being a collab with a notable personality, the latest regularly is equally interesting, because the dial materials are typically found in watches at a much higher price point. Recent examples including the platinum Omega Seamaster 300 or even the multi-million dollar, piece unique Rolex Daytona in platinum. In contrast, the new regulator is relatively affordable at just under US$3,200. At the same time, the regulator also costs less than the earlier special editions, namely the models with guilloche or enamel dials, making it an even better value proposition. Tho...

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P Chronograph – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5370P Chronograph – Jul 17, 2021

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P Chronograph – Reprise

The first weekend of November 2016 was a big one for GaryG: in addition to attending the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, he collected not one, not two, but three spectacular watches. The watch he left home certain to bring back was one that he had been waiting patiently for since January 2016: the split-seconds chronograph Reference 5370P from Patek Philippe. Here Gary explains why he bought it.

Only Watch 2021: Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock SJX Watches
Bulgari Jul 11, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock

While named after a late-18th century Swiss watchmaker, Charles Girardier is a startup, having been established in 2018 by Patrick A. Ulm, a Swiss private banker with a passion for watches. The brand focuses on tourbillon wristwatches, but enhanced with elements inspired by vintage Charles Girardier pocket watches, such as paillonnee enamel dials and its whimsical “mysterious” complication. Its Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel won the Ladies’ Complications Watch Prize at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve, beating out competition from big names like Bulgari and Piaget. For Only Watch 2021, Charles Girardier created the 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock, a wristwatch with a figure-of-eight dial layout in grand feu enamel and an unusual automatic movement with a peripheral rotor. Initial thoughts Being relatively young, Charles Girardier only has one model to its name so far, the Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse. Still, it’s a technically interesting watch, making it a useful starting point for an Only Watch edition. The Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse is symmetrical  – both on the front and the back. The dial is arranged in a figure-of-eight, with a flying tourbillon at six, and the “mysterious” complication at twelve. The “mysterious” complication is the brand emblem that spins freely, thanks to a weight on its back that’s hidden under the dial. It gives the dial dynamism, though the “mysterious” complication feels a b...