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414 articles · 49 videos found · page 16 of 16

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Absolute Light SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces May 4, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Absolute Light

Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch is available in the usual range of materials, as well as some unusual carbon-glass composites, and now sapphire with the Laureato Absolute Light. At first glance it appears to adhere to a common formula – executing a well-known case design in sapphire – but Girard-Perregaux has tweaked a few elements to make it a little more interesting, while maintaining transparent-mechanical look prized in such watches. Initial thoughts Ultra-luxe sports watches with sapphire cases are surprisingly common, despite the accompanying price tag. Typically the design can be varied little, since what most brands do is produce their signature style in sapphire. So the way to stand out is to make the details a little bit more interesting, and the price tag a little less high. Girard-Perregaux has succeeded in the former – amongst the interesting details here are the movement and hours chapter ring – while doing so-so on the latter. At 85,000 Swiss francs, the Laureato Absolute Light is a lot of money, but amongst sapphire-case sports watches, the price is middle of the road. Framed by lugs The 44 mm case is typical Laureato, which is a circle within an octagon within a tonneau-shaped case. Admittedly the standard Laureato does bear a strong resemblance to a handful of famous Gerald Genta case designs, but when rendered in sapphire the Laureato does look quite original. The case construction is unusual in that the titanium lugs bookend each side ...

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Breguet Introduces the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Mar 21, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887

One of the most exotic Breguet watches in production today, the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 combines a tourbillon regulator, perpetual calendar, and running equation of time. Complexity aside, the watch is mechanically fascinating: the traditional complications within are executed in a modern and practical way. The equation of time, for instance, relies on an open-worked cam produced via the high-tech LIGA photolithography technique. And the tourbillon cage is lightweight titanium with a silicon escapement, while the automatic winding is equipped with a peripheral rotor. Breguet has now introduced a new version of the grand complication, in pink gold with a slate-grey dial. While it is mechanically identical to the two earlier versions – in platinum with a blue dial or pink gold with a silver dial – the new watch is striking and harmonious, shedding a bit of the sports-watch aesthetic of the Marine by way of the richer colours. Being a facelift, the dimensions of the watch remain unchanged. It is still a massive 43.9 mm in width, though a svelte 11.75 mm high, thanks to the ultra-thin movement inside. Like the movement, aesthetics across the case and dial are very much a blend of new and old. The case has the traditional fluted band, but is paired with modern integrated lugs. Similarly, the dial is solid gold and decorated with traditionally-executed guilloche engraved with a rose engine, but in a modern, stylised wave motif. In a nod to the age-o...

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Breguet Introduces the Classique 7137 and Classique 7337 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Mar 17, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Classique 7137 and Classique 7337

Perhaps the quintessential modern Breguet watches, having been in the line-up for decades, the Classique 7137 and Classique 7337 have elegant proportions and classical dials that showcase the exacting art of traditional engine-turning. And they have just been face-lifted, retaining the traditional look while getting sleeker engine-turning and a streamlined moon phase. Though the changes are slight, the watches differ significantly in look and feel from the initial versions. Unusually, the new dial is also offered in dark blue (with a white gold case), historically an uncommon colour for Breguet. The other combination is the conventional rose gold with a silver dial. Both models feature a slim, 39 mm case with straight lugs and a reeded case band. Mechanically, they are identical to the earlier generation versions. The movements of both watches vary in height and calendar complications, but they share the same ultra-thin cal. 502.3 as the base. The Classique 7337 in pink gold with a silver dial Before going on to the details of the two, it’s worth a quick look at their history. The two models are descended from the refs. 3137 and 3337 respectively, both watches designed by the independent watchmaker Daniel Roth when he helped create the modern Breguet identity in the late 1970s. Mr Roth, in turn, was inspired by important, 19th century Breguet pocket watches; he successfully translated Breguet’s glorious past into the modern era. Being small watches by modern standard...

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Up Close: Breguet Classique 5177 in Blue Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Classique 5177 Dec 26, 2019

Up Close: Breguet Classique 5177 in Blue Enamel

Breguet is often at its best when it does traditionally styled watches with a twist, something exemplified by the Classique 5175 limited edition made for its Tokyo boutique in 2017. The design was classical, but the dial was blue enamel, instead of the usual white (or occasionally, black). This year Breguet revived the same look – albeit with a date window – for the new Classique 5177, once again in blue enamel. A longstanding model in the catalogue, the Classique 5177 was launched in 2006, but in more traditional livery – white enamel, or guilloche in either basketweave or hobnail. The latest iteration, however, is the most striking of the lot, managing to be both traditional and different. Formal dress At 38mm by 8.8mm, the case is perfectly proportioned as a modern dress watch; not too big and not too small. Like all Breguet watches it has long, narrow lugs, which give it a slightly larger footprint than its dimensions imply. On the wrist the watch sits graceful and flat, proportions that give it a look of proper formality, especially when combined with its restrained design. The profile of the traditional Breguet watch case, with a fluted case band and soldered lugs All the details of the new 5177 are old school, inspired by 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The obvious ones are the Breguet-style numerals and hands, while the less obvious, and more charming, elements include the star-shaped minute markers and the Breguet “secret” signature above six o’c...

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Hands-on: Tissot T-Complication Squelette SJX Watches
Tissot T-Complication Squelette Tissot has Dec 11, 2019

Hands-on: Tissot T-Complication Squelette

Tissot has a stellar reputation for well-made watches at notably affordable prices, like the recent Ballade Powermatic 80 or Heritage Petite Second. Switzerland’s biggest watchmaker by production, Tissot maintains a vast portfolio of vintage-inspired, dress and technology-focused watches, including a skeleton wristwatch with modern styling. Skeletonised watches are intriguing as the intricate mechanics that make a movement tick are front and centre. Combining both aesthetics and mechanics can be a tough nut to crack, however, as legibility in particular suffers when a movement is open-worked. Tissot managed to nail both looks and legibility with the T-Complication Squelette, which retails for a little under US$2000. At 43mm in diameter and 12mm high, the T-Complication Squelette is a sizeable watch on the wrist – it has presence – but also an expansive canvas of gears and springs. The stainless steel case is fully brushed with substantial “horn” lugs, and a handful of interesting details that contribute to its character. Most notably is the asymmetry on its upper right flank that is not initially obvious. The case subtly widens from the crown to the top-right lug, filling the angular space between the lug and case that’s present on the other three lugs. And the signed crown has an interesting knurled pattern reminiscent of a turbine, creating a subtle mechanical motif that is echoed in the movement. The bezel is relatively narrow and simply gets out of the way....

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Longines Introduces the Heritage Military 1938 SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Nov 14, 2019

Longines Introduces the Heritage Military 1938

Following the recent Heritage Classic with a “sector” dial, Longines continues to churn out compellingly-priced, well-conceived remakes with the Heritage Military 1938. Limited to 1938 pieces, the watch is modelled on the ref. 4092, an oversized military watch produced by Longines just before the Second World War. Such watches were often made for the firm’s agents in Eastern Europe, most prominently Zipper in Poland. The original watch from 1938 (left) and the modern reissue (right) Like the original, the Heritage Military 1938 has a 43mm stainless-steel case topped by a domed sapphire crystal, which is pretty much the only obviously modern element of the watch.  The rest is pretty much faithful to the original, right down to the typeface of the logo and numerals, even on the sub-dial. Crucially – traditionalists will surely approve – the remake is hand-wound like the original, in contrast to most other Longines remakes that are self-winding. The case has a polished top surface on the lugs and bezel, with a contrasting brushed case band. And the matte black dial features a railway minutes track, along with sans-serif Arabic numerals and baton-shaped hands filled with cream-coloured Super-Luminova to mimic the aged appearance of the radium “lume” on the original. And because the watch is powered by the suitably large ETA Unitas 6498-1 that fills the case, the small seconds is correctly positioned, sitting a distance from the central axis and close to the bot...

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Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked Nov 7, 2019

Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”

At Only Watch 2017, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black ceramic – but with a one-off blue dial – sold for a whopping 800,000 Swiss francs, with two phone bidders driving it to nearly seven times the high estimate. It was the third most expensive watch in the sale. This year’s contribution is no Royal Oak – far from it – but it’s surprisingly worthy of a second look. In fact, it’s probably the best-looking watch to emerge from the brand’s often criticised Code 11.59 line. Amidst the flak heaped upon it, the Code 11.59 range had a couple of standouts, including the Tourbillon Openworked. And that’s where AP started for Only Watch 2019. The Tourbillon Openworked Only Watch retains the slim, beautifully finished skeleton movement, eschewing the contentious Code 11.59 dial altogether. And the movement has a two-tone finish that smartly highlights the most important mechanical components. To match the movement, the Only Watch edition features a two-tone case that does justice to the Code 11.59 construction in a way the uniform colour of the standard models simply couldn’t. Superbly constructed In terms of size, the case is identical to the standard model – 41mm by 10.7mm. Beyond immediate impressions, the case is wonderfully constructed with a subtle and intriguing mix of shapes and finishing made obvious by the two-tone materials. The octagonal case middle is pink gold, while the rest of the case, including the lugs, are white gold,...

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Ophion Introduces the OPH 786 Vélos SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Sep 20, 2019

Ophion Introduces the OPH 786 Vélos

Ophion is a Spanish brand offering Swiss-made watches with a particular speciality: traditionally-styled movement and dial decoration done by machine, resulting in a modest price. The new OPH 786 Vélos sticks to the same formula, but takes it to a new level by increasing the degree of machine-executed decoration on the dial to create an appealing style while retaining the accessible pricing. And the resulting look is also reminiscent of the work of far more expensive independent watchmakers like Thomas Prescher and Voutilainen. Two dials are offered: the simpler, and less expensive, one being a metallic finish and concentric brushing matched with nickel-plated hands. And the fancier option is an elaborate basket-weave guilloche engraved by a CNC milling machine, combined with either nickel-plated or heat-blued hands. Both dial finished have the same construction featuring an applied minute track and inner ring, and also large applied Breguet numerals. The inner ring has a wide inner bevel that is once again cut by machine. The 39mm watch case features bulbous, teardrop lugs that are each produced individually, and then welded to the case – an unusually elaborate construction at this price point. And it’s worth pointing out the case is made by Voutilainen & Cattin, the case maker owned by Voutilainen. Inside is the same calibre found in earlier Ophion models. Made by Soprod, it’s hand-wound with a five-day power reserve. The movement layout was customised for Ophion...

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Highlights: Sotheby’s Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction Taking Jul 17, 2019

Highlights: Sotheby’s Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction

Taking place on July 19, Sotheby’s thematic auction to mark the 1969 Moon landing – Omega Speedmaster: To the Moon and Back, Celebrating 50 years since Apollo 11 – is all about the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, plus a handful of watch accessories and lunar paraphernalia. The auction is 50 lots, covering a variety of Speedmaster models, starting from the very affordable to “grail” references like the ref. 2915-1 and “Alaska III”  prototype. For those interesting in a lot-by-lot opinion of the sale, check out the article written by Speedmaster enthusiast William Roberts over at speedmaster101.com. Here’s a look at a couple of highlights. Lot 10 – Speedmaster ref. 2915-1 The ref. 2915-1 is substantially different from the later Moonwatches but is the one that started it all, being the very first reference of the Speedmaster ever. Its particular combination of features – steel bezel, “broad arrow” hands, straight lugs – give it a distinct and appealing look compared to the later Speedmasters. This particular appears correct, albeit showing its age. The wear seems pretty even throughout, from the case to dial to back, and is detailed in Sotheby’s condition report. According to the extract, it was delivered to Mexico in 1958, a year after the model was introduced. With one of the best examples of the ref. 2915-1 having sold for just over US$400,000 at Phillips last year, the estimate for this well-worn example is US$150,000-200,000. Lot 13 ...

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VIDEO: Holding the last watch that walked on the moon in your hand (and quietly freaking out) Time+Tide
Oct 8, 2018

VIDEO: Holding the last watch that walked on the moon in your hand (and quietly freaking out)

Nothing hints at the story of a watch more than its imperfections. A thick scratch across the crystal. Could that have been a motorbike accident? A near miss with a switchblade? A ding in the otherwise smooth shoulder of the lugs. Something mundane like an errant car door, or seatbelt buckle on a plane? A … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Holding the last watch that walked on the moon in your hand (and quietly freaking out) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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