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With a name that sounds like it comes straight from the Marvel Cinematic Universe, it should come as no surprise that the watch looks more than a little out of this world. First of all there’s the dial - or rather the lack of it. Because as you might guess with a name like “Skeleton … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton X in Carbonium Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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A lot of new watches are released every year. Big brands will often release 100 or more new unique variants (and fair enough, different dial/strap/material, etc take up a lot of this space), but even so, it’s fair to say that not every new watch gets its time in the sun. Sometimes that’s OK, as … ContinuedThe post You might have missed these 6 excellent new watches – these are the sleeper hits of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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One of the most random, and awesome watches to emerge from the briny depths of Baselworld was the (very) limited edition Doxa SUB 200 T. On the surface this is a pretty standard vintage reissue, with a big 43mm case in that classic cushion shape, with that classic orange dial, in a dual register layout … ContinuedThe post Because who doesn’t want a solid gold DOXA dive watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
De Bethune is the latest amongst a number of watchmakers to take the covers off a commemorative edition to mark the 40th anniversary of Singapore watch retail powerhouse The Hour Glass. For the occasion, De Bethune has put together a variant of its signature DB28 with sprung lugs that’s entirely clad in brilliant, blued titanium. First unveiled in polished titanium in 2018, the Steel Wheels is essentially a DB28 wearing a little less. A partially open-worked dial – which is actually the delta-shaped barrel bridge – reveals its pair of skeletonised barrels and gears. While the original Steel Wheels captures the essence of De Bethune, combining its trademark design with the brand’s fundamental technical innovations, it was lacking a generous dose of blued titanium, a gorgeous, heat-treated alloy that is synonymous with the brand. Colour consistency That has now been rectified with the DB28 Steel Wheels Blue, arguably the purest – and bluest – distillation of the brand’s core values and technical achievements. It features an intense, mirror-polished, blued titanium case and dial that form a striking contrast against the exposed inner mechanics. Though blued titanium is also used by other brands today, De Bethune was amongst the first to mirror-polish its titanium cases and more crucially, started using heat treatment to blue titanium way back in 2006. An example of an early De Bethune using blued titanium, a DB25L from 2010 with a blued dial...
Time+Tide
For as long as time has been indicated with hands on a dial, horologists have been hunting for different ways to communicate time. Contemporarily, this pursuit has taken some weird and wonderful forms, resulting in a few very clever feats of engineering to tell you what time it is. For those who are tired of … ContinuedThe post Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: While #BlueWatch Monday has inspired 24,000+ posts on Instagram, I wanted to start the week with a watch in the same chromatic neighbourhood, specifically the Rolex Day-Date 40 with olive green dial. Without a doubt, this has to be one of the best-looking Day-Dates that Rolex has ever produced (yes, I said one … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Day-Date 40, olive-green goodness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The latest Grand Seiko limited edition sports a dial inspired by a Japanese blizzard.
Deployant
An extension to the elegant Tutima Patria line, now in stainless steel with either a magnificent cold enamel blue or grey dial. We review the Admiral Blue.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: If you look at the profile of this Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue, there isn’t a lot to see. That’s because the watch is so darned thin! But the dial-side more than makes up for it, because Bulgari has cut the dial open, exposing all manner of goodness inside. Read on for … ContinuedThe post The lovely bones – Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Skeleton Titanium Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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MB&F; releases a new version of the iconic Legacy Machine 2 in Red Gold with a beautiful Blue dial. Full details including price within.
SJX Watches
Montblanc recently introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a bronze case, black, multi-scale dial, and a monopusher, split-seconds Minerva movement inside. Priced at just 33,500 Swiss francs, it is a bargain as such things go. Now Montblanc has taken the covers off the one-of-a-kind, titanium version with a blue agate dial created for charity auction Only Watch 2019. Though it costs a bit more – the estimate is 42,000-48,000 Swiss francs – the watch still feels like a steal. The dial is made of blue agate, a hard, semiprecious stone, with a graduated colour that darkens towards the edges. Design-wise it’s the same as that found on the bronze model: inspired by a 1930s aviator’s chronograph made by Minerva, it has a double chronograph scale – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the middle. The contrast of white and red against the blue dial is both refreshing and striking. Notably, the dial forgoes the faux-aged “lume” of the bronze model; the cathedral hands and numerals are instead filled with white Super-LumiNova, letting the retro design speak for itself. The large dimensions of the case remain unchanged from the standard bronze model – 44mm in diameter and 14.55mm high – but it’s significantly lighter thanks to the lightness of titanium. The sapphire caseback reveals the gorgeous, hand-wound and hand-finished MB M16.31. It is essentially the MB M16.29 derived from a pocket watch movement, but w...
SJX Watches
While it’s a new brand that just made its debut, Genus is founded on the watchmaking talent of an industry insider who has spent a lifetime working on complications. Its first watch is the GNS 1 that tells the time with an ultra-exotic complication with the minutes travelling across the dial like a train. Conceptually the GNS 1 harks back to the burst of creativity that started in the early 2000s, when watchmakers went all out with imaginative complications to display the hours and minutes. This was the heyday of the Harry Winston Opus series and the birth of brands like MB&F; and Urwerk. The brand Genus was founded by entrepreneur Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières, founder of GMTI, a specialist watchmaking workshop. The son of a watchmaker, Mr Billières started his career at Roger Dubuis in 1999, followed by a stint at Urwerk. In 2011, he set up GMTI, which specialises in primarily in assembly and servicing of complicated movements for major watch brands. Now staffed by 25 watchmakers, GMTI’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from tourbillon movements bearing the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, to time-only movements produced on an industrial scale. Telling the time According to Mr Billières, the GNS 1 is the realisation of his long-held ambition of creating his own watch, after spending his career doing it for others. The GNS 1 is essentially an exceptionally avant-garde display of the hours and minutes. Even when static the face is impressive...
Time+Tide
In a world overflowing with safe-and-similar watch designs, Franck Muller is a breath of fresh air. As in this ladies tourbillon (a recent addition to the Cintrée Curvex Collection), the confident use of colour, the beautiful balance of traditional and avant-garde, the refined details on the dial, and the voluptuous curves of the case have … ContinuedThe post Have a heart – the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The timepieces that held the title of “most complicated watch ever”, as well as their famous owners, are mostly well known – save for the long-lost English grand complication commissioned by banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Morgan was a great collector of watches, and his grandest timepiece was a double-dial, astronomical pocket watch made by J. Player & Son. It was the most complicated English watch ever made, and perhaps the most complicated watch in the world at the time of its completion. Though Morgan’s watch has long been surpassed in complexity by other hands, and it bears the name of a defunct English brand, it has arguably the greatest provenance of all super-pocket watches. Unlike James Ward Packard or Henry Graves, who were both wealthy, accomplished, and little known individuals outside their fields, Morgan is still the best known banker in history; the biggest bank in the United States today bears his name. The grandest of all time But first, a brisk walk through the grand complication hall of fame. The most famous most-complicated-watch-ever is, of course, the Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication”, which sold for US$24m in 2014 and still holds the record for the most expensive watch ever sold. Commissioned by American banker Henry Graves Jr in 1925, and delivered in 1933, the Graves pocket watch outdid the now obscure Leroy 01 that was sold in 1904 to a Portuguese millionaire. And it also surpassed the various watches produced for automobile ...
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Sinn 6012 Rose Gold Anniversary The new 6012 rose gold edition is a limited edition created to mark the 20th anniversary of the Frankfurt Financial District Watches in 1999. The rose gold limited edition is limited to 50 pieces and cased in 18K rose gold (not plated). The case and dial The Sinn 6012 isRead More
Time+Tide
Thanks to their central function in the time-telling process, watch dials often get a significant amount of coverage in the horological media. But this often ignores the thing that keeps the dial on your wrist in the first place - the bracelet or strap. Considering the most customisable part of a watch is the bracelet - and … ContinuedThe post The most interesting watch bracelets of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In 2016, Cartier unveiled one of the most dramatic examples of an orbital regulator – the Astromysterieux – in which the entire movement was suspended in the oculus of the watch dial, mysteriously unencumbered by any visible support. The Astromysterieux sits in the same class of exotic regulators as the Ulysse Nardin Freak, Piaget Tourbillon Relatif, and Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital – and unsurprisingly, three of the four were conceived by the same watchmaker. Previously only available in palladium, the brand has now introduced a striking pink gold version with a black guilloche chapter ring. The dimensions of the watch remain unchanged – 43.5mm in diameter with a thickness of just 12mm, making it one of the thinnest, most elegant watches with such an unusual regulator. In the new pink gold version, the black guilloche chapter ring is paired with polished pink gold roman numerals and black Breguet-shaped hands, creating a remarkable contrast. But the true brilliance of the watch lies in the ingenious cal. 9462 MC, for which three patents were filed. The secret to the floating, mysterious movement is in the invisible gearing that is hidden behind the chapter ring. The movement is essentially baguette-shaped, with the minute hand fixed to the barrel bridge, and completes a full rotation on the dial in an hour. The central, carrousel tourbillon The basic idea of a tourbillon is to install the escapement in a mechanically driven platform in order to cr...
SJX Watches
Akrivia’s entry for Only Watch 2019 is a unique variant of its critically acclaimed Chronomètre Contemporain but with an added bonus – the platinum case is made by storied case specialist Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The first outing at Only Watch for Akrivia and its founder Rexhep Rexhepi, the unique Chronomètre Contemporain is equipped with a dial made of grey-blue fired enamel featuring white enamel markings. But the dial is unusual for having a hand-hammered finish, a decoration typically only applied to gold dials, giving it a granular surface. The view from the back of the 38mm platinum case is identical to that of the standard model, save for the “JHP” hallmark on the lower right lug. It’s short for Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a semiretired case maker who was responsible for some of the most exquisite watch cases of the 1980s and 1990s. Amongst his work is the incredibly complex case of the Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 pocket watch. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” is the first watch to emerge from the recently inked collaboration between Akrivia and Mr Hagmann. Stay tuned for more on this. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” has an estimate of 40,000-60,000 Swiss francs, and will go under the hammer on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva. The complete Only Watch 2019 collection can be seen on onlywatch.com.
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This year, Chopard introduces what is arguably the most laid-back iteration of the L.U.C Quattro thus far - and it's solely to do with its new dial.
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G was unveiled at Baselworld 2018 to much fanfare, as it marked the debut of the perpetual calendar complication in the iconic Gérald Genta-designed watch. It still retains its signature looks, with the embossed blue dial, integrated bracelet and 40mm size. It’s also got a pleasing degree of heft … ContinuedThe post Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Longines rolled out a smaller version of its popular Legend Diver last year, one that is just 36mm in diameter and catered to ladies. Now it’s added a “tropical” dial model to the line-up, creating a dive watch for ladies with serious retro style. The first Legend Diver, which was made for men, was based on the twin-crown dive watches of the 1960s, specifically the refs. 7042, 7150 and 7594. The lower crown was for winding and setting, while the upper crown rotated the elapsed time bezel, a feature that has been reproduced in the modern day remake. Sometimes nicknamed “Super Compressor” after the type of water-resistant case made by case maker E. Piquerez (which also supplied other brands), the originals were notably large for watches of the era, measuring 42mm in diameter. The men’s Legend Diver is exactly the same size, but the mini Legend Diver is substantially smaller, just 36mm in diameter. Despite its reduced size, the Legend Diver 36mm manages to retain the look and proportions of its bigger brother. And with the new “tropical” dial, it also replicates the highly desirable discoloured dials of some vintage “Super Compressor” divers. The original watches all had glossy black dials, but exposure to sunlight over the decades caused some dials to fade, resulting in varied shades of brown. The new Legend Diver “tropical” replicates the aged dials found on some vintage examples, with a tobacco coloured centre that darkens towards the edges. T...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: For all that Hublot is a name strongly associated with big, bold colours (and rightly so, might we add), they’re not afraid to show their more subtle side on occasion. Take, for example, this Classic Fusion Titanium Greed – what a dial! This week we’re looking at Hublot watches that aren’t the Big … ContinuedThe post Green, lean and not at all mean – Hublot’s Classic Fusion Titanium Green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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In this week's Throwback Sundays article, we take a look at six watch recommendations that features a world map on the dial.
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Bell & Ross releases a new instalment to their Bellytanker series with the new Bronze black dial limited to 999 pieces. The watch is part of the brand’s vintage-style collection.
Revolution
Hands-on with the new Panerai PAM977 and PAM978 with a brushed silver dial and stainless steel bracelet.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: To paraphrase Sandra’s excellent review of the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph - the brand nailed it. Case, movement, dial and all the details are what we want from a heritage style piece in 2019. Pro – it’s expected to be hitting the market quite soon. Con – it’s limited to 100 pieces globally. When … ContinuedThe post Heritage perfection, the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde isn’t a new watch but, oh boy, it’s still a good-looking piece of wristwear. The simple case, numerals, and dial texture all add up to an entirely pleasing watch … The story in a second: Tissot‘s latest heritage release is another hit. In these days of the never-ending … ContinuedThe post Mid-century modern – Tissot’s excellent Heritage Petite Seconde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In 2017, Blancpain released one of the coolest dive watches of the year, the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC, which stood out because of its distinctive spherical moisture indicator on the dial. It’s a watch that owed its existence to a particularly storied watch with a military backstory. The story is set in a post-WWII … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The mythical Tornek Rayville TR-900 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Time to Move saw some new dial variants of the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, with a chic black dial. And while we only saw these watches in passing, it reminded us of what an interesting, underrated and divisive (yes, all at once) watch it is. So, this is our review of the original, … ContinuedThe post Another look at the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, a wonderful watch ruined with wordplay? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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We start with the Aquaterra GMT World Timer. 43mmSS case with a blue rubber strap. The dial features a cartouche of the Earth looking down from the North Pole which is laser engraved on a Ti plate to create the blue ocean leaving a relief of the continents. The contrasting colors of the surface isRead More
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