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Hands-On: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition SJX Watches
Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Jan 16, 2020

Hands-On: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition

The Zenith Defy 21 is unquestionably strong value for money – a 1/100th of a second chronograph starting at just over US$10,000 for the base model in titanium. But most of the iterations of the Defy 21 so far have a highly technical look, combining a skeletonised dial with a large, angular case. Now the Defy 21 design has taken a sharp turn in another another direction: with the help of Land Rover, Zenith has given it a makeover, creating the minimalist and functional Defy 21 Land Rover Edition. While automotive-inspired watches are often over designed, the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition has been redesigned in a simple and effective manner; the watch has been streamlined and pared back, giving it a slightly military look that works. The styling is a nod to the 2020 Land Rover Defender, the most no-nonsense of the British carmaker’s offerings that was launched in late 2019. Clean lines and surfaces To start with the case is micro-blasted titanium – finished with a finer-than-usual frosting that is faintly granular, in contrast to the coarser frosting that is more commonly applied to titanium. The surface is smooth enough that is resembles a coating, but it is natural titanium. The simplicity of the case finish is appealing, because it suits the chunky, angular form of the case. But it is also practical, because it reduces the perceived size of the case, which is large at 44 mm by 14.4 mm. But being titanium, the case is fairly lightweight and wears comfortably, though...

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Black Series Diver Limited Editions SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models which means it Jan 16, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Black Series Diver Limited Editions

Having launched a well received trio of Black Series dive watches in 2017, Seiko has done it again, but this time applying the black livery to more upscale models, including the Prospex Marinemaster and Prospex “Sumo”. The flagship model of the new collection, the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Black Series (ref. SLA035J1 or SBDX033) is all black with red accents on the dial, historically a common colour combination for dive watches. According to Seiko, the choice of red was intentional, as it is the first colour to disappear underwater, starting from a depth of about 5 m or 15 ft. As a result, the seconds hand and depth rating disappear underwater, thus “[eliminating] unnecessary information allowing for instantaneous readability.” Limited to just 600 pieces, the Marinemaster Black Series has a steel case with a black hard coating, and the bezel insert is scratch-resistant black ceramic. It’s powered by the 8L35, an automatic movement derived from the 9S55 used in Grand Seiko models, which means it has the same architecture but without the decorative finishing found on the Grand Seiko movement. The other two Black Series models feature a black-and-orange colour scheme, and are more affordable. The first is the Seiko Prospex Black Series “Sumo” (ref. SPB125J1 or SBDC095), which is a rather large limited edition of 7,000 watches, no doubt because the Prospex Black Series “Turtle” of 2017 sold out swiftly. The “Sumo” (left) and solar chronograph The new ...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera 160 Years Silver SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Jan 15, 2020

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera 160 Years Silver

To mark its 160th anniversary this year, TAG Heuer just unveiled the Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition, a remake of the Carrera 2447S from 1964 that’s a quintessential vintage Heuer. Though simple, the ref. 2447S is still fairly distinctive with a monochromatic colour palette and the recognisable Carrera case with its facetted lugs. The ref. 2447S was characterised by a radially brushed silver dial – the “S” in the model reference denotes a standard, silver dial without a tachymetric scale – that arrived only in 1964, replacing the white dial that was one of the launch colours, alongside black. Limited to 1860 pieces, the Carrera 160 Years Silver remains largely faithful to the original, save for a few tweaks like a larger size, restyled hands and necessary technical upgrades such as water resistance and the movement. While the original was 36 mm, the remake is 39 mm, a more appropriate size for a modern watch, if not exactly ideal for a remake. But it is finished just like the original, being entirely polished. And the case is topped by a domed sapphire crystal, which replicates the look of the acrylic glass on the original. A Carrera ref. 2447D, which shares the same silver dial but includes a decimal scale Besides the case, another obvious difference on the remake are the chronograph registers: the running seconds is now at six o’clock, while it sat at nine on the original. That is a consequence of the in-house movement inside. A more subtle upgrade ...

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 SJX Watches
Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 Jan 8, 2020

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946

Longines’ determination to churn out affordable vintage remakes is going strong, despite having just unveiled the Heritage Classic Sector Dial and then the Heritage Military 1938 late last year. Previewed last year but only just officially launched, the Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 sticks to the same formula – reproduce a desirable Longines wristwatch and price it modestly – but is unusual in being the first vintage-inspired chronograph since the Avigation BigEye of 2018. More unusually, it’s a good-looking remake of an odd-looking vintage watch, purportedly from 1946, in the Longines Museum that combines elements not usually found together. Whatever the case maybe with the historical inspiration, the design of the remake has been sleekly refined. Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 Like other remakes, the 1946 won’t win any prizes for imagination, but it’s a good-looking remake that gets the details right. The basis for the remake is a watch from 1946 in the company’s museum, which was most probably powered by the famed cal. 13ZN flyback chronograph movement (which was succeeded by the equally famous cal. 30CH in 1947). Introduced in 1936, the cal. 13ZN represented the cutting edge of chronograph technology at the time, being the first serially produced chronograph movement to incorporate a flyback function. Catered for sportsmen and aviators, the flyback function allowed the wearer to reset the chronograph without having to stop it first. As a rather...

Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Jan 2, 2020

Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Anniversary

At Baselworld last year, Seiko unveiled its take on the ultimate time-only watch, the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Spring Drive 20th Anniversary SBGZ001. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 is powered by essentially the same movement as found in the Credor Eichi II, but dressed up with an engraved platinum case and dial, while also priced at quite a bit more than the Eichi II, with a retail of US$76,000. Also launched at the same time was the Grand Seiko SBGZ003, which is almost the same watch – having the same movement but minus the engraving on the case and dial, resulting in a US$57,000 price tag. With their cushion-shaped cases and dauphine hands – the hallmarks of the newish Elegance Collection – both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are slightly more retro in style than the stark and contemporary Eichi II. But more importantly, they are powered by the 9R02, which is an upgraded version of the movement in the Eichi II and the most gorgeous movement ever found in a modern Grand Seiko. In short, both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are watches with incredibly well finished movements – amongst the best in modern watchmaking anywhere – but with a couple of caveats, discussed below. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 – watch courtesy of Mark Cho, founder of menswear store The Armoury The 9R02 Spring Drive movement Masterpieces from the studio All of Seiko’s top of the line watches – both Grand Seiko and Credor – come from the Micro Artist Studio, a workshop set up in 2000 to produce the fi...

Gerontohorologyphobia: A Young Man’s Fear Of Being Seen Wearing An Old Man’s Watch Quill & Pad
Dec 26, 2019

Gerontohorologyphobia: A Young Man’s Fear Of Being Seen Wearing An Old Man’s Watch

Colin was wearing a steel watch with blue dial when the receptionist at the trading company he was working for, a chirpy lass straight out of the BBC’s 'Eastenders' soap opera, looked down disdainfully and said, “I hate watches with blue dials. They remind me of old men in pubs.” What happened after that can only be described as a case of gerontohorologyphobia: fear of inadvertently wearing an old man's watch.

Hermès Introduces the Slim d’Hermès Cheval Ikat SJX Watches
Richard Mille Dec 22, 2019

Hermès Introduces the Slim d’Hermès Cheval Ikat

The often quirky or abstract equestrian themes Hermès applies to its watches recently received an unusual twist: its newest pair of timepieces feature dials decorated in ikat, a traditional dyeing and weaving technique usually associated with Indonesian textiles. Characterised by individually dyed yarns and slightly fuzzy motifs, ikat has been given a touch of gold – literally – in the Slim d’Hermès Cheval Ikat. Combining the traditional art with modern technology, the dial is decorated with tiny threads, each the third the width of a human hair – some 1,165 of them in total. Each thread is secured on the dial at two points, creating a network of linear, perpendicular threads crisscrossing the dial that form a prancing horse. The ends of each thread sit in a laser-cut divot on the dial that’s been filled with a drop of 24k gold, which secures the thread while giving the dial a metallic glint. Offered in two variants – in white or rose gold with dark or light dials respectively – the Cheval Ikat is powered by the H1950, an extra-thin calibre with a micro-rotor made by Vaucher, a movement specialist part owned by Hermes that is probably best known for supplying movements to Richard Mille. Key facts and price Slim d’Hermès Cheval Ikat Diameter: 39.5mm Material: 18k white or rose gold Water-resistance: 30m Movement: H1950 Functions: Hours and minutes Winding: Automatic Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3Hz) Power reserve: 42 hours Strap: Alligator L...

VIDEO: The timelessly elegant Grand Seiko SBGY002 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGY002 Created Dec 18, 2019

VIDEO: The timelessly elegant Grand Seiko SBGY002

Created to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s prolific Spring Drive movement, SBGY002 is a limited edition dress watch for discerning fans of the Japanese watchmaker’s signature snowflake dial. Hewn from solid 18k yellow gold, the case of the rarified timepiece is signature SBGY and, as a result, measures in at just 38.5mm and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The timelessly elegant Grand Seiko SBGY002 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Introduces a Duo in Delicate Wood Marquetry SJX Watches
Hermes did Dec 16, 2019

Hermès Introduces a Duo in Delicate Wood Marquetry

In its usual tasteful yet quirky style, Hermès has unveiled a pair of wristwatches featuring dials decorated in wood marquetry,  tiny pieces of exotic woods assembled like a puzzle to form striking, abstract motifs; last year Hermes did the same in leather. Created by a young French marquetry artist, the dials start with a line drawing on tracing paper, which is then digitised and scaled down to the size of the dial. The reduced drawing is then printed out and cut into its component parts with a scalpel, forming the pattern for cutting. Each piece is then glued to a thin slice of exotic wood that is then cut with a small electric fret saw. The resulting bits of wood are then assembled with a tweezer, and occasional gentle hammering, before the dials are sanded and varnished, making them seem like an unbroken whole. Monochromatic yet intriguing enough to make you look twice, the Arceau Astrologie Nouvelle reproduces the pattern from the silk scarf of the same name. The original Astrologie scarf featured a classical star chart, but in 2012 designer Cyrille Diatkine reinterpreted the motif – nouvelle is French for “new” – breaking it up into alternating and inverted segments. The Astrologie Nouvelle motif has been recreated using tulipwood, a wood that can vary in colour from white to dark blue according to Hermès, resulting in the contrasting colours of the dial. Its case is 41mm and 18k white gold, containing the H1837 automatic made by Vaucher, a movement maker...

VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt One Dec 15, 2019

VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt

One of the most appealing elements of a Louis Vuitton watch is just how unabashedly bold they are in their design, as well as their wrist presence. The new Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt is an excellent example, with its amply portioned 46mm stainless steel case, vivid dial graphics and branded rubber strap. The dial … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer Automatic 41 Southeast Asia Edition SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Dec 12, 2019

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer Automatic 41 Southeast Asia Edition

The entry-level model in Breitling’s Navitimer line, the Navitimer 41 is a three-hander with date – plus the Navitimer’s trademark circular slide rule bezel. Already available in a variety of guises, it’s now available in a small, 36-piece run for Breitling’s Southeast Asian boutiques, with a blue dial and red gold bezel. The Navitimer Automatic 41 Southeast Asia Boutique Edition has a 41mm steel case, but dressed up with the rotating bezel in 18k red gold. As with all current Navitimers, the bezel has a “beads of rice” rim, a detail taken from the first generation Navitimer of the 1950s that was later replaced by a more functional knurled edge. To match the bezel, the hands and hour markers are plated in red gold, while the dial is a deep metallic blue. Though not available on the Navitimer prior to this, the combination is a familiar, having been used by numerous brands in recent years, especially with blue dials being fashionable now. And the movement inside the Breitling 17, which is a rebadged ETA 2824, a robust, no-frills movement, here with a COSC chronometer certification. The SE Asia edition is limited to 36 pieces, and not 50 as engraved on the case back of the prototype above Key facts and price Navitimer Automatic 41 Southeast Asia Boutique Edition Diameter: 41mm Height: 10mm Material: Steel with 18k red gold bezel Water resistance: 30m Movement: Breitling 17 (ETA 2824) Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date Winding: Automatic Freque...

Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Ultraplate in Platinum SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Dec 11, 2019

Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Ultraplate in Platinum

Originally introduced in stainless steel and red gold earlier in the year, Blancpain has just unveiled the top of the line Villeret Ultraplate 6605, now in platinum with a deep blue dial in an 88-piece limited edition. Ultra plate is French for “ultra flat”, and it aptly describes the line, which includes both automatic and hand-wound models. The new Villeret Ultraplate 6605 is essentially the hand-wound, time-only version of the self-winding (plus date) Ultraplate 6223 that’s a decades-old mainstay in the Blancpain line-up. At 40mm wide and just 7.39mm high, the Ultraplate 6605 is compact on both dimensions and exceedingly elegant. It’s also slightly larger but thinner than the automatic 6223. Entirely polished, the platinum case is done in typical Blancpain style, with a thin, double-stepped bezel and slim, short lugs that allow the watch to wear smaller than expected. The deep blue dial has a simple sun-ray finish and features applied Roman numerals in white gold, along with a pair of elegant, open-worked leaf-shaped hands – a tiny detail but one that lightens the dial. Powering the watch is the hand-wound cal. 11A4B. Though a new movement, it is based on the automatic Frederic Piguet cal. 1150 introduced in 1988. The 11A4B is essentially an enlarged, hand-wind variant of the cal. 1150, with a diameter of 27.8m versus the 1150’s 26.2mm. Some of the enlargement is thanks to wider base plate and bridges, while retaining the original architecture – explain...

IWC Introduces the “Lewis Hamilton” Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Hamilton Big Pilot’s Watch Dec 10, 2019

IWC Introduces the “Lewis Hamilton” Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar

To mark British racing driver Lewis Hamilton’s sixth Formula 1 World Championship, IWC has unveiled the “Lewis Hamilton” Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition. One of the most striking executions of the Big Pilot to date, the watch departs from the subdued, technical colours that characterise the line – which was inspired by German airforce navigators’ watches of the Second World War – and instead opts for a Bordeaux dial and pink gold accents. Measuring 46.5mm wide and 15.9mm high, the case is made of matte black ceramic, which accentuates its burgundy dial while downplaying its massive dimensions – though the watch is hard to miss on the wrist. The richly coloured dial is combined with a pink-gold crown and case back, while the hands are gold-plated and filled with cream-coloured Super-Luminova. All the indications are also printed in a golden hue, along with a black four-digit year disc and moons, matching the case. Visible through the case back is the in-house, automatic cal. 52615, which sports a solid pink-gold rotor. It features the brand’s trademark Pellaton winding system, a 7-day power reserve courtesy of twin barrels and most crucially, the landmark perpetual calendar module invented by IWC’s longtime technical guru Kurt Klaus. The perpetual calendar tracks the day, day of the week, date, month, four-digit year, with both northern and southern hemispheres moon phases displayed concurrently. All indications advance in a coordinated sequ...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Dec 2, 2019

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue

A year ago, H. Moser & Cie. debuted the Heritage Pilot’s Watch, a retro, aviation-inspired watch with grey fumé dial for Swiss retailer Bucherer that was then a one-off unlike anything else in the brand’s line-up. Now the watch has officially joined the collection as the Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue, positioned as an entry-level model priced under US$14,000. The watch has a familiar design, for good reason: it’s modelled on early pilot’s watches from the 1920s that were produced by a host of brands including Longines and Zenith, and also Heinrich Moser, the predecessor of H. Moser & Cie. At the same time, according to Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, the Heritage watch takes some inspiration from early 20th century wristwatches that were converted pocket watches with wire lugs soldered on for wear on the wrist. While the Heritage measures 42mm in diameter like a majority of Moser’s watches, it is just 11.1mm high, making it one of the brand’s slimmest models. Its stainless-steel case features an onion-shaped crown and thin lugs to mimic wire lugs. The case is largely polished, punctuated with fine, vertical fluting on its flanks, a detail taken from another watch in the Moser line-up, the Pioneer. The dial is a dark, metallic blue finished with sunburst brushing and the brand’s signature fumé treatment that gradually darkens towards the edges. But the most distinctive feature are the large Arabic numerals – modelled on the painted radium ...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Dance of the Gemstones’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Dec 1, 2019

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Dance of the Gemstones’

Another of the strikingly elegant, one-off minute repeaters that’s part of Vacheron Constantin’s 2019 Les Cabinotiers line-up is the Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Dance of the Gemstones’. Well, it is actually two repeaters, a matched pair of his-and-hers watches (that are available separately nonetheless) with eggshell grand feu enamel dials and ruby hour markers. The dials are extravagant yet elegant, evoking prominent watches of many decades ago. They are inspired by high-end gentlemen’s wristwatches of the 1950s that combined silvered or enamel dials with ruby hour markers, with baguette-cut stones for the quarters and brilliant-cut in between. These were often special orders for royalty or as royal gifts, with the best known being the pocket- and wristwatches made for King Saud bin Abdulaziz of Saudi Arabia that bore his portrait on the enamel dial. His and hers A Patek Philippe ref. 2481 from 1955 with a cream enamel dial bearing a portrait of King Saud bin Abdulaziz. Image – Christie’s Both the repeaters share a similar case design, but different diameters and decoration – the men’s version is 41mm while the ladies’ watch is 39mm with a diamond-set bezel and crown. The watches are otherwise identical, powered by the same cal. 1731, an extra-flat, hand-wound movement that was developed in-house. Key facts and price Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘The Dance of the Gemstones’ Men’s model – ref. 6630C/000R-B662 Ladies’ model – r...

Whither Watch Websites? The Future Of Online Watch Journalism (You Read It Here First) - Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 1, 2019

Whither Watch Websites? The Future Of Online Watch Journalism (You Read It Here First) - Reprise

Back in 2018, Ian Skellern published a provocative article taking issue with the current state of online watch journalism. Specifically, he criticized what in his view is the low quality and repetitive nature of what we see online. But are things really uniform and uniformly bad or are there distinct types of online sources and content? GaryG wonders how we think about the different business models and value propositions of watch sites, and what it tells us about how the future may unfold.

In-Depth: Commissioning the Voutilainen GMT-Villes Custom Time Zone Watch SJX Watches
Rado x Nov 28, 2019

In-Depth: Commissioning the Voutilainen GMT-Villes Custom Time Zone Watch

Voutilainen watches are well loved for their dials, which are made in-house and offered with a myriad of finishes – primarily guilloché or enamel – as well as numerous colours and appliques. But unconstrained freedom leads to hesitation, and too many choices make a decision difficult. American psychologist Barry Schwartz, writing in The Paradox of Choice, notes that consumers are often happier having to choose from fewer options, rather than more. The author’s custom GMT-Villes But in my own collecting, perhaps the opposite is true. When I work with an independent watchmaker on a custom or bespoke watch, exploring the abundance of possibilities is the main attraction, particularly when I can specify the details face to face with the watchmaker himself. Investing sufficient time to figure out my goal makes the process of choosing not a task to be feared, but an enjoyable journey leading to the unique piece. This is my story of commissioning the GMT-Villes from Kari Voutilainen (which happened slightly before I embarked on a similar project with Andreas Strehler). Kari Voutilainen in his showroom. Image – FHH The beginning of custom work After setting up his own workshop in 2002, Kari, then 40 years old, made his debut as an independent watchmaker with the Masterpiece series of wristwatches, starting with Masterpiece 6 unveiled at Baselworld in 2005. The Masterpiece watches were all one-off minute repeaters relying on rebuilt and finely decorated vintage ebauches ma...

INTRODUCING: Rock and rolling with the Bremont Ronnie Wood “1947 Collection” Time+Tide
Bremont Ronnie Wood “1947 Collection” Nov 23, 2019

INTRODUCING: Rock and rolling with the Bremont Ronnie Wood “1947 Collection”

The limited edition watch is a tactic used by watch brands that is receiving increasing numbers of eye-rolls as dozens are churned out each year. But where many brands simply change a dial colour and limit production to 200 pieces, Bremont has been making limited editions with a difference. Cutting through the noise of endless … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Rock and rolling with the Bremont Ronnie Wood “1947 Collection” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Edition SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces Nov 23, 2019

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Edition

Characterised by its sleek, modernist form, the Octo Finissimo Automatic was introduced only in 2017 but is arguably the most successful new design in the luxury sports watch category. Its architectural case and bracelet has now been melded with a dial conceived by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, resulting in the most intriguing iteration of the watch to date – the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Edition. Born in 1941, Tadao Ando is a self-taught architect whose minimalist yet monumental buildings demonstrate his mastery of concrete, geometry and light. Winner of the 1995 Pritzker Prize, Mr Ando’s notable works include the Church of the Light in Osaka; 21_21 Design Sight, a design museum in Tokyo; and most recently a lavender-planted hilltop shrine containing a giant Buddha in Hokkaido. While much of his work is located in his home country, he is also famed for several international projects, including the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth in Texas and 152 Elizabeth, a residential tower in New York City as well as the Cerro Pelon Ranch in New Mexico designed for designer Tom Ford. In the Octo Finissimo Automatic, he relies on simple geometry to create an unusually distinctive dial, with a spiral motif that emanates from the seconds hand, creating the effect of a wave rippling across the dial. Though the pattern is remarkably simple – it is printed in black lacquer on the dial – the effect is striking, especially when contrasted against the harsh, futuristic lines of the c...

Chopard Alpine Eagle: A Cool - And Ethical - Sports Casual Watch Quill & Pad
Chopard Alpine Eagle Nov 21, 2019

Chopard Alpine Eagle: A Cool - And Ethical - Sports Casual Watch

Stainless steel case, integrated bracelet in the same material, manufacture movement, and a blue dial: these are the ingredients for today's watches that people are willing to spend a significant premium to obtain. For many, this was also the first thought that went through heads when Chopard recently launched its new blue-dial, stainless steel, sporty watch, the Alpine Eagle. Martin Green looks beyond that pretty blue face after wearing it for a week and gives us his thoughts.

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 Emirates Edition SJX Watches
Singer Nov 19, 2019

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 Emirates Edition

Singer Reimagined, a sister company of Singer Vehicle Design, the acclaimed Californian outfit that modifies 964-series Porsche 911s, made its debut in 2017 with the Track 1 – a watch with a retro case but an ingenious, modern movement. The brand has since introduced several limited editions for key cities, including Geneva and Hong Kong. Now, to coincide with Dubai Watch Week, it is launching the Track 1 Emirates Edition, a smartly coloured iteration with contrasting dial textures for more intuitive reading. Measuring 43mm wide and 15mm high, the watch features a ceramic-coated aluminium case, created by subjecting aluminium to an electro-plasma oxidation process that creates a thin layer of ceramic on its surface. This gives the case a hard, scratch-resistant surface while keeping it lightweight, although the coating can be damaged by impact. In the same vein, the bezel, pushers, crown and case back are in titanium, but coated with zirconium nitride (ZrN), a hard ceramic that is pale gold in colour. The dial features black, concentric hour and minutes discs on the periphery with an olive-green centre and a gilt tachymeter flange, while all the hands are orange. The watch is otherwise mechanically identical to the standard versions. It is equipped with one of the most revolutionary chronograph movements of recent times – the AgenGraphe, which was developed by Agenhor, a respected Geneva complications specialist led by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Boasting five patents for...