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Our Contributors’ Favorite Watches & Wonders Releases Worn & Wound
Cartier pebble-like Apr 26, 2024

Our Contributors’ Favorite Watches & Wonders Releases

Yesterday, Zach Weiss, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan told you about their favorite watches from Watches & Wonders week. Today, our contributors have their say. Their choices reflect the incredible diversity of watches at the show (even in what most consider a somewhat slow year) and show that there are lots of great watches that we’ll all continue to discover from the event, sometimes from unexpected sources. Tanner Tran  By many accounts, the releases of Watches & Wonders 2024 were a relatively muted affair. We saw a lot of massaged designs and logical extensions of existing product lines. But that’s not to say there weren’t any new releases. The Cut, a new sports watch from Hermès, was one such example and a personal favorite of mine. I have a sneaking suspicion this watch will appeal to anyone looking for an uncommon 36mm integrated bracelet sports watch – that is to say, a lot of people – even though ‘The Cut’ is a little more than implicitly marketed as a ladies’ piece. With its rounded case (almost Cartier pebble-like) and variants featuring diamond-studded bezels, ‘The Cut’ is a softer alternative to its sibling, the H08. I really dig the design and find that it neither feels overly done nor half-baked. The applied numerals carry a distinct Hermès typography, and the orange accents along both the inner dial and second hand add a nice touch of contrast. The execution of the quick-change bracelet (and strap) is also simple and elegant. On that n...

Fratello On Air: Catching Up With The New Amida Digitrend And A Tissot Antimagnetique Fratello
Tissot Antimagnetique Welcome back Apr 26, 2024

Fratello On Air: Catching Up With The New Amida Digitrend And A Tissot Antimagnetique

Welcome back to Fratello On Air! This week, we’re coming back late due to our busy schedules. We’ve decided to cut this recording in half and will come back on our regularly scheduled day next week. For this episode, we talk about the new Amida Digitrend and a vintage Tissot Antimagnetique. Sorry, folks; we’re late […] Visit Fratello On Air: Catching Up With The New Amida Digitrend And A Tissot Antimagnetique to read the full article.

Take An Early Peek at the Products of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2024 Worn & Wound
Citizen group family Alpina brings Apr 25, 2024

Take An Early Peek at the Products of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2024

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is right around the corner and if you’re like us, you’ve only got one thing on your mind: what watches am I going to see? Whether you are planning to stop at specific brands on your tour of the new venue in Fort Mason, or your plan is to wander through the 80 different watch and EDC brands, today we’re highlighting a selection of standout projects from our Lead Sponsors. As always, Windup is free and open to the public, thanks in large part to these brands who continue to support the enthusiast community. You can see all of these brands and more at the 2024 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 4: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 5: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public You can see every product listed here and more from each sponsor on the Windup Watch Fair Product Showcase. While you’re on the site, be sure to sign up for Windup updates to make sure you continue to get the latest info in advance of and throughout Windup Weekend. Alpina One of the key brands in the Citizen group family, Alpina brings design and engineering talents to build luxury sport watches that operate with the highest available standards in precision and reliability through sporting environments. At Windup SF 2024, Alpina will showcase their Alpiner Extreme Automatic model, relaunched in 2022 after a 2009 introduction. Now with stainless steel bracelets, the watch c...

Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue” SJX Watches
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Apr 24, 2024

Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue”

When Rolex surprised with the launch of the 1908 last year, we liked it – Brandon Moore wrote a positive review. Now Rolex has followed up with the Perpetual 1908 in platinum (ref. 52506) with an “ice blue” guilloché dial of notably high quality. Though identical in almost all respects to the versions in gold, the new 1908 is very different – and significantly more compelling. Initial thoughts Done the traditional way with a hand-operated machine, the guilloché dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The pale blue is also more modern and striking than last year’s colours, which were fairly old fashioned. At the same time, the dial has a slightly glossy finish that gives it an even brighter hue. The guilloché transforms the dial, which was fairly staid in the earlier models. I would still do away with the peculiar hands inspired by the Submariner and other sports watches, but the dial is attractive as it is. The dial is engraved on a hand-operated rose engine Not only does it look better, the platinum 1908 also feels more appealing. It has the same slim profile as the gold versions, but has more heft thanks to the denser case material. More generally, it has the same tactile quality as all Rolex watches – it feels tangibly well made despite the compact size. While the dial is impressive artisanal quality, the rest of the watch is outstanding industrial quality. Though the case is thin, it is exceptionally robust and solid, as is the screw-down ...

Louis Erard Drops Another Abstract Atelier Oï Edition SJX Watches
Louis Erard Drops Another Abstract Atelier Apr 23, 2024

Louis Erard Drops Another Abstract Atelier Oï Edition

In 2021, Louis Erard collaborated with a Swiss design studio on the Le Régulateur x atelier oï, a strikingly minimalist regulator-style watch with a dial devoid of scales, indices, or branding. Originally presented in a restrained grey, this collaboration now returns with a brighter, gilt finish inspired by sundials in a notably small run of just 18 pieces. Initial thoughts  Louis Erard’s newest offering has a captivating aesthetic that is both minimalist and striking, albeit not particularly legible. Unlike its predecessor, this has a more richer look with a golden dial that contrasts with the blued steel hands. The colour diverts the eyes towards the asymmetrical radial pattern engraved on the dial. The rest of the watch is identical to the earlier edition, which also means the same case as the standard regulator model. The downside of that is the thickness, which at over 12 mm is substantial for a watch with a relatively elegant design. The Atelier Oï regular is priced at CHF3,750, which is the prevailing price for most Louis Erard regulator editions, like the Oliver Mosset released in January. The new offering is a compelling timepiece for someone looking for something more artistic than the conventional offerings on the market. Inspired by a sundial The newest release follows on Louis Erard’s first collaboration with the Swiss design studio in 2021. With the exception of the dial colour, the watch retains the same specs as before. It has a regulator-style dial...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301A-010 Grande Sonnerie “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 22, 2024

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301A-010 Grande Sonnerie “Only Watch”

Having announced its return with an auction on May 10, 2024, Only Watch has finally revealed the watch that everyone has been waiting for: the Patek Philippe Grande and Petite Sonnerie Ref. 6301A-010 “Only Watch”. Based on the standard version of Patek Philippe’s clockwatch – which is the second most complicated watch in the brand’s catalogue – the ref. 6301A has a stainless steel case like several past Only Watch editions and more unusually, a Rare Handcrafts hand guilloche dial covered with blue-green translucent fired enamel and 12 baguette-cut diamond indices. For the moment, the ref. 6301A is the only timepiece in Only Watch 2024 that is an entirely new creation, while the rest of the offerings are carried over from last year’s event (though word has it a prominent independent watchmaker might be making significant modifications to his creation). Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s original creation for the what was originally Only Watch 2023 was a unique version of the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P. After that got postponed to May this year, Patek Philippe replaced its original contribution with the ref. 6301A. Though only the dial differs from the standard version in terms of visuals, the ref. 6301A is strikingly different. With its elaborate dial, it looks less formal and more decorative. Thought arguably less surprising than the ref. 1938P that was an entirely new reference and complication, the ref. 6301A is more complicated, expensive, and elabo...

Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Established Apr 21, 2024

Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Established in 2015, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is an annual affair to recognise the next generation of watchmakers. Applicants present a timepiece of their own design and construction, which is judged by on its complexity, craftsmanship, and aesthetics by a jury including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe. While last year’s winner was a Swiss-Italian clockmaker, this year’s winner is 23-year-old Frenchman Thomas Aubert, who entered his wristwatch Séléné, a unique piece crafted in his final year at the Edgar Faure High School in Morteau, France. Amongst the standout features of the Séléné is its key-winding and -setting as well as the clever “shooting star” display on the back. The Séléné pays tribute to classical watchmaking in both style and technique, but each reinterpreted with a modern twist. As is often the case with such school watches, the movement is based on the Unitas 6497, although it underwent extensive reworking. For example, the timepiece doesn’t feature a crown; instead winding and time-setting are done via a key that goes into dedicated slots on the case back.  The front of the Séléné is classical and tastefully done, with a “grated” finish on the dial that is set on a frosted plate backdrop. The exposed balance bridge is mirror polished and chamfered. The screwed balance beats at 2.5 Hz and features a prominent Breguet overcoil hairspring. Mr Aubert is fascinated by astronomy, a passion that he...

The Ultimate 4/20 Gift Guide Featuring the Limited Edition Shinola 420 Grassland Runwell Worn & Wound
Shinola Apr 20, 2024

The Ultimate 4/20 Gift Guide Featuring the Limited Edition Shinola 420 Grassland Runwell

A tradition unlike any other, yes we’re talking about the green-but you don’t need clubs or a golf balls for this holiday. Today is 4/20, a day marked for camaraderie and resilience, in addition to community, advocacy, and creativity, that come from in the endless pursuit of a nice, little high. With continued successes in campaigns for the legalization of marijuana in the United States and around the globe, the stereotypical stoner persona is changing. While the days of crafting makeshift pieces in the neighborhood “spot” are (hopefully) far behind you, the team at Detroit-based Shinola have used their ingenuity to dedicate a special Runwell to continue to speak up for those incarcerated or affected by outdated cannabis laws. Take a look at Shinola’s latest release, in collaboration with actor Quincy Isaiah and his new film Grassland, as well as some giftable products from other innovative brands that are doing their part to get those who light up out of the dark. The post The Ultimate 4/20 Gift Guide Featuring the Limited Edition Shinola 420 Grassland Runwell appeared first on Worn & Wound.

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet would launch their own Apr 18, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph

This is a pretty big year for A. Lange & Söhne. We’ve hit 25 years of the Datograph, which made its debut in 1999, and Lange is celebrating with a pair of very special limited editions of their iconic chronograph. One of them is truly off the wall, and we’ll get to that next week. For now, we’ll take a look at the Datograph Up/Down Limited Edition in white gold, with a blue dial. It’s a perfectly lovely example of the watch that many Lange collectors will insist put the brand on the horological map, and a strong counterpoint to the other Datograph that we’ll tell you more about soon.  First, it’s crucial to understand the importance of the Datograph not just in Lange’s collection, but in high end watchmaking writ large. When it was first unveiled in 1999, Lange was a young brand, only five years into their relaunch. They had earned the respect of connoisseurs in the late 1990s, but the introduction of their first in-house chronograph caliber with the Datograph took them to another level. This was years before Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet would launch their own in-house chronograph calibers, in an era where using supplied calibers from chronograph was common for brands at every level, including the absolute upper tier. It can be argued that the Datograph ushered in an arms race of sorts that would find many of the highest end watchmaking manufactures in a constant state of one-upmanship that goes on to this day.  There have been a variety of Datograph...

Baltic Kicks off the Tour Auto with a Limited Edition Tricompax Chronograph Worn & Wound
Baltic Kicks off Apr 18, 2024

Baltic Kicks off the Tour Auto with a Limited Edition Tricompax Chronograph

The Tour Auto, rooted in the historic Tour de France Automobile dating back to 1899, has become a pinnacle of motorsport, featuring legendary drivers like Maurice Trintignant and iconic brands such as Ferrari and Porsche. Today, over 250 competing crews traverse France’s scenic roads and racetracks, captivating spectators. Baltic returns for a second year in the row as the Official Timekeeper, and, in commemoration of the event, has produced 500 Tricompax timepieces. The Tricompax’s colorway strikes a balance between tradition and modernity, drawing inspiration from the excitement and iconography of the race. Its dial, in a matte light beige, complements three black-ringed subdials, reminiscent of the Tour de France Automobile’s colors. Accentuated by a black railway track, it pairs harmoniously with the tachymeter scale bezel, designed for speeds of up to 200 km/h. The Tricompax is encased in a 39.5mm 316L stainless steel case, clocking in at a thin 13.5mm profile. With a 63-hour power reserve from the Sellita SW510-M manually wound movement, 50-meter water resistance, and its double-domed sapphire crystal, each feature of this watch is meant for the long-haul.  Each watch comes with both a steel flat link bracelet and a navy blue Alcantara strap, housed in a beautifully presented custom-made case. Also included in the case is a Rally Timer comprising two emblematic motorsport tools: a stopwatch with a matte light gray dial, operated by a Hanhart hand-wound movemen...

Fratelli Stories: The WWI Watches Providing A Glimpse Into Our Past Fratello
Apr 16, 2024

Fratelli Stories: The WWI Watches Providing A Glimpse Into Our Past

Mark Nagle is a passionate collector of vintage watches. His focus is vintage timepieces from World War One. We spoke to him about this particular fascination as part of our Fratelli Stories series. Read on. Like many of you, I am a fan of vintage watches. Sure, we cover a lot of new watch releases […] Visit Fratelli Stories: The WWI Watches Providing A Glimpse Into Our Past to read the full article.

First Look – The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Incarnating Apr 13, 2024

First Look – The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium

Incarnating Vacheron Constantin’s sophisticated vision of a luxury sports watch, the Overseas has its roots in the 222, a 1977 model designed to celebrate the brand’s 222nd anniversary. Following a major overhaul in 2016, the brand released the third generation Overseas with a host of complications and a versatile interchangeable strap and bracelet system. The […]

H. Moser Introduces a Skeletonized Streamliner Tourbillon in Steel Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Apr 12, 2024

H. Moser Introduces a Skeletonized Streamliner Tourbillon in Steel

Just in time for Watches & Wonders 2024, H. Moser & Cie. has unveiled the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring. In other words? Moser has produced a dramatically skeletonized flying tourbillon movement with their signature double hairspring, and they’ve put it in a Streamliner. It’s been a few years now since H. Moser & Cie. released the very first Streamliner, and there can be no doubt that in a very short time, that watch has come to represent the brand in a very real way. Since the launch of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph four years ago, Moser’s somewhat quirky entry into the integrated bracelet market has seen a steady stream of new releases and added complication, and today sees yet another new execution. This isn’t one of those new releases that shows us a bunch of things we’ve never seen before, but rather draws from several disparate threads that have been floating around the Moser universe and ties them together into a single, compelling package. The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton builds on the premise of the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack that Zach reviewed back in 2022. But where that watch hid its movement behind literally as black a dial as you can possibly find, this year’s release goes in another direction, one more in line with another 2022 Moser release, the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. What results is a watch that is exactly what you might expect, given the name on the tin. The Streamliner Tourbillon Sk...

Konstantin Chaykin Returns to the Classic Joker SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 11, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Returns to the Classic Joker

ACHI member Konstantin Chaykin unveils his newest timepiece, the Joker Classic. Part of the Wristmon collection, the new Joker reverts to the original design of 2017 but boasts a case downsized to 40 mm and more notably a new movement.  Initial thoughts The Joker, as introduced back in 2017, is a very quirky timepiece, not necessary suited to a wide range of tastes. The anthropomorphic dial is as striking today as it was then, with a niche appeal. Nonetheless, the timepiece was very well received – the original 99 pieces were sold out quickly.  Since then there were some special editions based on the Joker concept, but most had their own peculiarities, mostly departing from the pure 2017 design. The Joker Classic remains exotic as ever, but feels like a return to the timepiece’s roots – complete with some embellishments and concessions to the modern industry standards.  Priced at CHF16,900, the Joker Classic is amongst the more affordable of the Wristmon models. Like the original, it is a good value proposition given its distinctive design and high level of in-house manufacturing, despite the outsourced base movement. A familiar face The Joker Classic features the trademark white dial, made to resemble a smiling face. The regulator-like separated hours and minutes indicators make up the eyes, while the open grinning mouth reveals a cheeky moon phase complication. The Joker Classic is offered in two versions: the traditional color scheme of the original Joker (whit...

Piaget Celebrates 150 Years with an Ultra-Thin Tourbillon and a Pair of Polo Dates Worn & Wound
Piaget Celebrates 150 Years Apr 10, 2024

Piaget Celebrates 150 Years with an Ultra-Thin Tourbillon and a Pair of Polo Dates

Piaget is having a major moment in the watch industry right now. Its core design language-with bold aesthetics and a distinctly 1970s flair-is very en vogue, and it’s celebrating a milestone anniversary: 150 years. The brand kicked off the year with the Polo 79, a thoroughly modern interpretation of its very first Polo from 1979. Now, we get another extension of the beloved Polo line in the form of a pair of Polo dates and a new Altiplano that puts Piaget’s proficiency in the realm of ultra-thin calibers on full display. The Polo is a collection that strikes that perfect balance of utility and style. As the name suggests, its roots trace back to the sport, and the original hails from the peak era of luxury sport watches. However, from the onset, Piaget gave the model a sophisticated edge with the use of precious metal, yellow gold to be exact from the original 1979 model. In the four decades since its initial debut, Piaget has iterated on the Polo in many forms, including the introduction of a more traditional stainless steel variation with the Polo S in 2016.  With the two new additions to the Polo lineup (each limited to just 300 pieces), we get that classic stainless steel build along with the addition of a sporty rubber strap in place of the integrated bracelet. However, Piaget elevates each model with the incorporation of rose gold accents on the hands, hour markers, and date window. The 150th anniversary Polo Date comes in two sizes: 42mm and 36mm. I’m a r...

Hublot Introduces a Trio of New Big Bang Unico Chronographs for Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Hublot Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Hublot Introduces a Trio of New Big Bang Unico Chronographs for Watches & Wonders

If I were asked to pick the quintessential Hublot watch, the choice would be easy. It’s the Big Bang Unico. Just about every watch brand has a model that can be pointed to as a sort of platonic ideal. That watch tells you pretty much everything you need to know about the core of a brand. For Hublot, it’s the Big Bang Unico, and Hublot knows it. The Big Bang Unico is to Hublot what the 458 was to Ferrari, a pure distillation of the brands’ essence into something that you can (mostly) drive in the real world. The Big Bang Unico Ceramic, well that’s more like a 458 Speciale - mostly the same thing, but with a little extra oomph. For Watches & Wonders this year, Hublot is continuing to iterate on the tried and true 42mm flyback chronograph with the introduction of three new variants of the Big Bang Unico, each made primarily of ceramic. To kick us off, Hublot is introducing two new versions of the Big Bang Unico Ceramic, one in orange, and one in green, each in a limited edition of 250 pieces. These aren’t entirely new colors for the brand, we’ve seen green ceramic on the Big Bang Integral Chronograph, and Hublot produced an orange ceramic limited edition Big Bang Unico inspired by the Golden Gate Bridge through their San Francisco boutique a few years ago. That said, they are welcomed additions to the lineup, and will each have their fair share of fans. Both the Orange and the Green come equipped with color-matched rubber straps and feature black accents through...

Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models

At Watches and Wonders last year, TAG Heuer presented new Carrera models using a 39mm Glassbox case design. Many celebrated these watches due to their clean, classic looks and moderate size. Since then, more variants have entered the lineup, including a full-gold model and the return of the cult-classic Skipper. Now we have two new […] Visit Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models to read the full article.

First Look – The New Chopard Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 XP TT (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Chopard Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 Apr 9, 2024

First Look – The New Chopard Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 XP TT (Incl. Video)

Chopard’s first luxury sports watch was the St. Moritz, a somewhat flamboyant 1980s watch with an elaborately shaped bezel and an integrated bracelet with a shiny central link that captured the bling spirit of the 1980s. Overhauled in 2019 to become the Alpine Eagle, the brand’s luxury sports watch has soared to become a veritable […]

The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night shows the globe in a novel way Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day Apr 9, 2024

The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night shows the globe in a novel way

The tourbillon is already one of the most mechanically impressive but elegant complications, neatly integrated into a tiny radius. For Watches & Wonders 2024, IWC sought to further iterate on the elegance of its manual-winding Portugieser Tourbillon, but rather than just introducing a new dial colour or strap option, the brand added a complication. Usually, … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night shows the globe in a novel way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...