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SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s 270th Dec 26, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Complications

Episode 22 of the SJX Podcast looks back at the complicated watches that emerged in 2025, a banner year that saw major brands deliver ambitious and record-setting complications. Several anniversaries, including Vacheron Constantin’s 270th and Audemars Piguet’s 150th, resulted in inspired releases. Big brands delivered big hits, from Lange’s black enamel minute repeater perpetual calendar to Blancpain’s Grande Double Sonnerie, which feature a four-note melody composed by Kiss drummer Eric Singer. For its part, Chopard finally gave its sapphire gongs the platform they always deserved with the Grand Strike, the brand’s first-ever grande sonnerie. And while Audemars Piguet’s big anniversary was headlined by the RD#5, the brand’s crown-operated perpetual calendar was another important addition to the field of complications this year. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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Hands On: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s 2022 launch Dec 9, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis

Earlier this year F.P. Journe unveiled its most daring jewellery watch yet, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis, set with the largest baguette rubies ever used in watchmaking. Despite the current popularity of high jewellery watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie (TVJ) Rubis is an audacious undertaking that required eight years to accumulate the right gemstones – and the destruction of 61 carats of gem-quality rubies to make this single watch. Initial thoughts Haute joaillerie watches of this sort are not new; the 1980s and 1990s saw significant demand for gem-set complicated watches, especially in Asia. But Over the last decade such watches have shifted from niche offerings to an important (and resilient) pillar of the business for many brands. Coloured stones are seeing marked interest too, as a sort of trend within a trend, as exemplified by Rolex’s “Rainbow” Daytona, one of the brand’s hottest models. Patek Philippe’s 2022 launch of the gem-set Grandmaster Chime trio can also be seen as a milestone for the genre, with one of Geneva’s flagship fine watchmaking brands adorning its flagship watch with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. A unique Piaguet minute repeating pocket watch that’s a fine example of 1990s gem-setting high horology But with the TVJ, it’s clear that F.P. Journe is not simply following industry trends – this watch is eight years in the making and belongs to a two-decade tradition of high jewellery tour...

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Introducing – The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, the Next Chapter in Sound and Substance Monochrome
Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 Dec 1, 2025

Introducing – The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, the Next Chapter in Sound and Substance

As part of its 250th anniversary celebrations, Breguet closed the year with a grande finale, the Experimental 1 and its innovative magnetic escapement. But there was one more watch as part of the celebratory collection… The Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, a new limited-edition minute repeater rooted in the brand’s heritage while pointing firmly to its […]

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Breguet Reimagines the Classic Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Reimagines Dec 1, 2025

Breguet Reimagines the Classic Répétition Minutes

Along with the flagship Classique Grande Sonnerie Métiers d’Art 1905 pocket watch, Breguet just announced its first water-resistant minute repeater, the Classique Répétition Minutes 7365. While this 250th anniversary edition with a Breguet gold case and Bleu de France grand feu enamel dial is limited to 25 examples, it likely represents the future of the brand’s chiming watches: smaller and more robust. Initial Thoughts Despite the strong popularity chiming watches have seen at the high end for many years, it has felt like something of a weak point for Breguet, reliant on rather old movements that didn’t always sound the best. The ambitious and wild Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087 promised to fix this in 2018, but for unknown reasons that watch never made it to market. However, acoustically Breguet’s repeaters have become quite good despite the old bones, proving how key gongs and case construction are to repeaters. The 7087 doubles down on this approach, not even introducing a silent centrifugal governor which has become ubiquitous in modern chiming watches, even at the high end – the sound of which I’ve come to find quaint. The move to smaller sizes, 42 mm to 39 might be more dictated by market trends rather than any specific vision from the brand, but is one I appreciate either way, and while water resistance isn’t strictly necessary in a chiming watch, the peace of mind is reassuring. In the end, this watch comes down to how much you lik...

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Highlights: Complications on Bracelets at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 24, 2025

Highlights: Complications on Bracelets at Christie’s Hong Kong

The uniform of high complications almost invariably includes a leather strap; a metal bracelet remains an uncommon pairing with, say, a grande sonnerie. Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, however, brings an unexpected abundance of complicated watches on bracelets for collectors who prefer metal, including notable examples from Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. This season’s sale is anchored by two major private collections, most prominently the second part of The Chronicle Collection, the first half of which was dispersed earlier in the spring. The consignor began collecting in the 1990s, a fact reflected in the depth of neo-vintage highlights throughout the catalogue. Lot 2442 - Patek Philippe ref. 3448⁄8 with Possibly Unique Ruby Dial The Patek Philippe ref. 3448 was the first self-winding perpetual calendar produced in series. According to movement numbers, it is likely 586 were made in total - this lug-less example was one of the first made. Beyond its historical interest, the ref. 3448 is underpinned by one of – if not the – most beautiful automatic movements ever made: the cal. 27-460 Q. Looks aside, it was one of the most technically competent automatics of its era, with an overcoil hairspring, free-sprung balance, and bi-directional winding using a cam and pawl system. Atop this worthy base calibre, the ref. 3448 adds the iconic windows perpetual calendar by none other than Victorin Piguet. The ‘/8’ in ref. 3448/8 suffix denotes the style ...

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Introducing: Two New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Watches In Distinctive Copper Hues Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Watches Nov 22, 2025

Introducing: Two New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Watches In Distinctive Copper Hues

Jaeger-LeCoultre has a reputation for revered watchmaking, all within a single facility in Le Sentier, in the Vallée de Joux. For 2025, La Grande Maison unveils two new Master Ultra Thin timepieces. Both feature a soft, almost terracotta-like shade of copper. The grainy texture also lends the aesthetic a touch of ruggedness. Yet, the playful […] Visit Introducing: Two New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Watches In Distinctive Copper Hues to read the full article.

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Xu Beihong Immortalised in Enamel on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Reverso One Oct 8, 2025

Xu Beihong Immortalised in Enamel on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso

One of the most famous Chinese artists of the modern era, Xu Beihong is best known for his ink paintings of horses and birds, which are amongst the most valuable examples of 20th century Chinese art. Three of those equine works have been reproduced in miniature enamel on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Xu Beihong”. Presented in the classic Grande Taille case size, this limited edition trio continues Jaeger-LeCoultre’s longstanding tradition of transforming the case back of the Reverso into a blank canvas for art. Past works that have been miniaturised for the Reverso include Claude Monet’s Venice paintings and Shahnameh, an epic poem of ancient Persia. Initial thoughts Like other miniature enamelled Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is impressive. The original artworks are already beautiful, and they have been reproduced in exceptionally fine detail. Even if you don’t like the works, the enamelling is clearly top quality. But like the other recent enamel Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is expensive in comparative terms. The retail price for similar watches was almost half today’s level six years ago. This is not unique to JLC of course. But JLC doesn’t have the cachet, after a few slow years, for such strong pricing, unlike say, Patek Philippe or a hot indie brand. That’s not entirely fair since they are beautiful watches with finely executed miniature enamelling, but it is the state of affairs. Two Horses Horse running and standing Notably, this is ...

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Hands-on – The Spirit of Mr Genta Chimes On in the Gérald Genta Minute Repeater Monochrome
Gerald Genta Sep 18, 2025

Hands-on – The Spirit of Mr Genta Chimes On in the Gérald Genta Minute Repeater

A legend in his own lifetime and the name behind countless watch icons designed for other brands, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) also produced masterpieces for his eponymous brand founded in 1969, including the Grande Sonnerie, considered the most sophisticated and complex chiming watch in the world. The current custodian of the Gérald Genta brand is Louis […]

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Best Watches Under $10,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 21, 2025

Best Watches Under $10,000

Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...

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Interview – Jérôme Lambert on his Comeback as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, His Plans and The Collectibles Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre His Plans Jul 2, 2025

Interview – Jérôme Lambert on his Comeback as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, His Plans and The Collectibles

I have known Jérôme Lambert for longer than I want to admit. The man started his watchmaking career right there, at La Grande Maison, or the Watchmaker of Watchmakers. Lambert has already been CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre from 2002 to 2013, and he left his mark on the brand. Strong collections, focus on complications and high-end […]

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Hands-On Introduction: The Yema Granvelle CMM.20 - Inspired By 16th-Century Architecture Fratello
Yema May 20, 2025

Hands-On Introduction: The Yema Granvelle CMM.20 - Inspired By 16th-Century Architecture

Yema’s current catalog mainly consists of sports watches, so it’s nice to see a new dressier option, especially because it has quite an original design. The inspiration for the all-new Yema Granvelle’s cushion shape came from the arches in the courtyard of the Granvelle Palace in Besançon. The building also houses the Museum of Time, […] Visit Hands-On Introduction: The Yema Granvelle CMM.20 - Inspired By 16th-Century Architecture to read the full article.

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey May 19, 2025

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction is a three-day affair that starts with enamelled Chinese market masterpieces of the 18th and 19th century, followed by a two-day main sale that includes several notable examples of independent watchmaking. Some, including watches from Greubel Forsey and Urwerk, might be value propositions and comparably accessible entries into the brands, while others will be six figures but arguably worth it – like the Piaget Gouvernor Grande Sonnerie that was produced by a young Francois-Paul Journe in the mid 1990s. We round up those and a few more indie highlights from The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX that takes place from May 23-25, 2025. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. The Piaget Gouvernour Grande Sonnerie with a movement made by François-Paul Journe in 1997 Lot 893 – Krayon Anywhere in pink gold & Lot 965 – Krayon Anywhere in white gold The sale includes not one, but two examples of the Krayon Anywhere. Conceived by engineer Rémi Maillat, the Anywhere indicates sunrise and sunset times anywhere in world, thanks to a set of cams and levers that can be adjusted for a particular locale. The chapter ring on the periphery of the dial is composed of overlapping discs that move with the seasons, indicating sunrise and sunset as well as the seasonal length of the day. A sub-dial at six indicates the calendar, which is linked to the sunrise and sunset indicator. Hand finished to a high level by specialists in the Vallée de Joux...

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Introducing – The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Apr 4, 2025

Introducing – The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a spectacular pink gold Reverso with a minute repeater powered by a new, fully integrated and shaped in-house movement. Taking advantage of the sleek Art Deco geometry of the Reverso and its swivelling case with two faces, the Grande Maison showcases its refined artistic crafts with an elegant guilloché decoration on the front […]

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Hands-On Introduction: Circula Turns A Sharp Corner With The New Facet Fratello
Junghans Laco Nov 30, 2024

Hands-On Introduction: Circula Turns A Sharp Corner With The New Facet

Circula was founded in 1955 by the grandfather of Cornelius Huber, the current owner. As a family business, the brand established itself in the German town of Pforzheim, a watchmaking hotspot that’s home to brands such as Junghans, Laco, and Stowa. Today, the brand releases a new model with a new level of quality and […] Visit Hands-On Introduction: Circula Turns A Sharp Corner With The New Facet to read the full article.

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Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial SJX Watches
Louis Erard s Régulateur Nov 7, 2024

Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial

The Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is a vintage-inspired take on Louis Erard’s signature regulator wristwatch. The “sector” dial has a grained black finish with engraved markings that are gold-plated, bringing to mind vintage “gilt” dials. Part of the brand’s Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, the new Le Régulateur shares the same case design and specifications with the recent “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator. Initial thoughts While Louis Erard is best known for its collaboration with independent watchmakers, such as Konstantin Chaykin and Kudoke, it offers a wider range of accessibly-priced regulator-style watches. And the Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is no different. It’s a fresh take on the vintage-inspired “sector” dial, combining the signature regulator display with rose-gilt engraved markings on a grained black dial. Priced at CHF2,900, the Gravé Noir stays within Louis Erard’s typical price range. It stands out from the competition in this price segment with the unconventional time display on a vintage-inspired dial. Like the brand’s other offerings, it is good value. It also shares the weaknesses of Louis Erard’s other regulator models, namely a thick case. Sector dial The Gravé Noir has the same dimensions as the rest of the Le Régulateur line with a simple, polished steel case measuring 39 mm by 12.82 mm. Inside is a self-winding Sellita SW266-1 that sports a rotor with the brand logo but is otherwise no frills. The movement has 38 hour...

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Hands-On: the Fleux FLX003 Worn & Wound
Panerai Nov 4, 2024

Hands-On: the Fleux FLX003

Search for “vintage watch” on Kickstarter and you’ll be met with page after page of watches that seek to capture the charm of watches from decades past. Some will be near-replicas that look more like carbon copies than modern interpretations. Others will find a balance of paying homage to iconic designs while still maintaining an air of originality. While the approaches vary, vintage inspired designs remain pervasive – they’re just about everywhere. Last year, Toronto based Fleux joined the ranks of brands crowdfunding their vintage inspired freshman releases with the FLX001 and FLX002– taking the amalgamation route by drawing inspiration from a variety of classic skin divers. The FLX001 featured chunky lume plots and a blocky orange hour hand that brought to mind images of Squale and Vulcain. The FLX002 featured a California dial, a layout of half Roman and half Arabic numerals that was popularized by brands like Rolex and Panerai. Changing gears to pay homage to a single watch rather than a genre, the FLX003 unapologetically draws its inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle- also known as the “Big T”. The Watch Lets address the elephant in the room: When considering a $500 NH38 powered Omega inspired dive watch, it’s fair to ask how it differs from the other Omega-inspired designs on the market. Afterall, a 200 meter, Seiko powered watch from Pagani Design can be yours for about $100. I’ve personally owned (and worn with pride) many of t...

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Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Sep 26, 2024

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Southeast Asian retailer Sincere Fine Watches is marking its 70th anniversary with a series of limited editions, with the latest being the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, equipped with a hand-wind, seven-day movement. The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition features a case and movement bridges of Damascus steel, a pattern-welded alloy composed of two types of steel that create a distinctive grained surface. Limited to 28 pieces, it follows Sincere’s prior anniversary editions, including the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon and H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD. An exotic alloy The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition combines the trademark Franck Muller tonneau-shaped case, an unusual case alloy, and one of the brand’s more interesting movements, a skeleton calibre with a seven-day power reserve. The Vanguard case is an evolution of the classic Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex, with modern lines echoed in the movement, which has a geometric and linear bridge layout. The case, crown, buckle, and movement bridges of the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition are made of an unusual steel alloy known as Damascus steel, or wootz steel. The material gets its name from the ancient high-quality steel used for bladed weapons over a thousand years ago. The modern-day Damascus steel employed here is created with powder metallurgy, namely mixing various steel powders before ...

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Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre SJX Watches
Sep 6, 2024

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre

Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...

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Citizen Dive Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Jun 11, 2024

Citizen Dive Watches Guide

Citizen Watch Co. of Japan has been making watches for 100 years, and a glance at the brand’s current portfolio reveals that quite a few of those watches are dive watches. It’s not surprising, since Citizen has been in the business of supplying watches for divers since the early 1980s, and has been extending the variety of styles, functionalities, and even movement types available in the various collections ever since. So how do you decide on whether you want your first (or next) Citizen dive watch to be an Eco-Drive or an automatic? An everyday-wear Fugu, a multipurpose Aqualand, or a deep-diving Eco-Zilla? Our comprehensive guide is here to help you, with a brief history of Citizen dive watches and a rundown of all the styles available today. Swiss watchmakers began embracing purpose-built, water-resistant divers’ watches in the early 1950s, while their contemporaries in Japan came aboard a decade or so later. As many history-minded watch enthusiasts are aware, it was Citizen’s competitor, Seiko, that released the first Japanese-made divers’ watch, in 1965. However, Citizen’s Parawater, regarded as the first “water-resistant” Japanese watch, preceded it to market six years earlier, in 1959. The Parawater watches (as above) were waterproof to 50 meters of depth, an impressive feat for the era, and they were the forerunners of Citizen’s contemporary line of dive watches, which began in the 1960s but really kicked into gear with the release of the Promast...

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