613 articles · 7 videos found · page 17 of 21
Monochrome
Since its debut in 1992, the Master Control collection by Jaeger-LeCoultre has embodied the brand’s refined approach to timeless design and precision. The line was introduced as the first to undergo the Manufacture’s 1000-Hour Control testing, a rigorous in-house certification of accuracy and reliability applied to the complete watch, not just the movement. Decades later, […]
Fratello
Last month, Mike brought you the details of a new 40mm Panerai Luminor in ceramic. That was the first time Panerai applied ceramic to a 40mm case. Well, the brand has already pulled the veil off an extension to that model with the PAM01783, featuring a deep blue dial. This new Luminor GMT Ceramica is […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01783 - Now With A Blue Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
Panerai is a byword for large, luminescent, water-resistant tool watches built for the Italian Navy with a powerful design that has stood the test of time for more than 80 years. With a collection based on just two models – Radiomir and Luminor – Panerai has applied the adage that “if it ain’t broke, don’t […]
Worn & Wound
The coolest thing I saw at Geneva Watch Days that I wasn’t allowed to talk about publicly is finally here. This week, Ming introduced a new bracelet concept they’re calling the Polymesh, and with its release it immediately became one of the most interesting products in a catalog full of boundary pushing designs. If you zoom out, what we have here is fairly easy to understand: it’s a 3D printed titanium bracelet. We’re pretty accustomed to 3D printing in watchmaking at this point, with recent releases from Holthinrichs and Apiar serving as recognizable touchpoints for what the technology is currently capable of. As with any other type of manufacturing, there are degrees to the level of quality and complexity depending on how the printing is done and what your goals are, more generally. Of course, in the case of Holtinrichs and Apiar, it’s the cases that are being created using a 3D printing process, and any watch you’d cite as an example has tell-tale signatures that it was made with additive manufacturing, whether that’s a rough finish or angles and shapes that would be otherwise impossible to achieve. A bracelet, though, is a whole other ball of wax. It’s worth pointing out that Holthinrichs has made a 3D printed titanium bracelet in the past, so the idea that Ming has here with the Polymesh isn’t unprecedented. The execution, though, is pretty original. The Polymesh is made up of 1,693 individual components, all held together without the aid of pins o...
SJX Watches
Ming has unveiled the Polymesh strap, described by the brand as the world’s first 3D-printed titanium watch bracelet. Blurring the line between bracelet and strap, it’s comprised of 1,693 articulating grade 5 titanium components. Designed to fit any Ming case with 20 mm lugs, the Polymesh strap reflects the brand’s growing ambitions. Initial thoughts The Polymesh strap illustrates the important function that independent brands like Ming play in the watchmaking ecosystem; they can explore concepts that big brands cannot. Large industrial brands are, to some extent, locked in a cage of their own making. On one hand, they have scale and distribution, but on the other, any innovation must be tested exhaustively to ensure it won’t complicate service channels. Ming exists in a sweet spot, with enough market traction to confidently invest in the development of new ideas, and the nimble size to take decisive action. In this context, it’s not surprising to see the first 3D-printed wristwatch bracelet come from a brand like Ming rather than an industrial powerhouse like Rolex or the Swatch Group. The concept itself is inherently interesting. It might be called a bracelet or a strap, but regardless of the nomenclature, it’s intended to offer both the dense, draping feel of a bracelet with the supple flexibility of a strap, made possible through additive manufacturing. As with any truly novel concept, the Polymesh strap likely needs to be experienced firsthand to be fully...
Worn & Wound
Longines has announced a pair of new watches in their Spirit collection today, and taken together it feels like a fairly significant shift and update for the five year old line. When the Spirit watches launched in 2020, it represented Longines making an attempt to develop watches that put more of a balance on contemporary vs. vintage inspired divide, having spent years carving out a niche as one of the most tasteful reinterpreters of their own back catalog. The Spirit watches were an entirely new invention but still leaned into the brand’s natural heritage appeal, and impressed from the start with excellent finishing and build quality. As the collection expanded over the years, it’s grown full of under the radar sleepers, but a handful of little issues are always mentioned by admittedly picky enthusiasts when new products drop. At least some of those seem to have been addressed between these new releases, updated versions of the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback. We’ll look at the Spirit Pilot Flyback first, as it’s a genuinely surprising and unexpected evolution of an ambitious watch that Longines debuted just two years ago. Longines has a long history with chronographs, and flyback chronographs specifically, so the introduction of a new flyback chrono at a competitive price point (at launch it came in under $5,000 in steel) was a big deal. Unfortunately, the case was just enormous, coming in at 42mm in diameter and around 17mm tall. The case height, in part...
Fratello
Everyone knows the story: you start with a paperclip and trade your way up to a house. Canadian blogger Kyle MacDonald made it happen in 2006 with his One Red Paperclip project. Could this principle, on a smaller scale, be applied to watches? Today on Fratello Talks, Nacho, Thomas, and RJ join to discuss the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Trade To Upgrade - Is It Possible To Trade Your Way To Your Grail Watch? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Frederique Constant, the brand that has cemented a reputation for accessible luxury, unveils two new iterations of its Classics Premiere unisex dress watch. Dressed in attractive pastel dial colours, the compact 38.5mm case size is paired with a new stainless steel bracelet for a more contemporary and versatile look. When applied to watchmaking, the term […]
Hodinkee
A natural onyx dial and lab-grown diamonds combines with a modernized take on the Disco Volante for an attractive-and limited-release. We look at the history of precious stone indices and historical takes on the "flying saucer" design.
Monochrome
Headquartered in the historical centre of Delft, The Netherlands, Holthinrichs Watches, named after its founder Michiel Holthinrichs, is one of the rising stars of the indie watchmaking scene. The brand has a truly unique approach to design and manufacturing, combining advanced metal printing techniques (yes, 3D printed cases are THE signature feature there) with high-end […]
Monochrome
While it’s pleasing to see, wear or use something familiar, to some it’s not enough. Venturing beyond the beaten track, there’s ample joy to be found in things that break the mould, rewrite the rulebook, or throw it out altogether. This can be applied to the ever-popular mechanical chronograph watch, which usually has a bi- […]
Monochrome
Some of you might remember the adventurer and survivalist Bear Grylls wearing a Bremont pilot’s watch on an episode of his TV show Man Vs Wild. Since that was over 17 years ago, Bremont has refreshed its roster of ambassadors to feature more contemporary figures. To promote the latest white dial edition of the rugged […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Ah yes, the Orient Bambino. Over the years this is a watch that I have come to appreciate for what it represents to the broader horological universe, but I also respect the way Teddy, the man, and TEDDY, the business, have been able to truly platform this particular model over the years. Some time ago, for another publication, I penned an essay about the Orient Bambino Version 2 – the model with the applied Roman numerals at 40mm. I boldly proclaimed that, in the wake of the Seiko SKX’s discontinuation, that this watch was the new value king - the unsung best buy in truly affordable automatic watches I still believe that, despite the price creeping up a hair over $300 these days. Of course, the SKX did return in the form of the Seiko 5 Sports SKX series that we will be getting our hands on soon enough but the 42.5mm wide and 13.9mm thick case might trim the potential clientele. And it does cost more than the Bambino at $425. Today, we are looking at two iterations of the Orient Bamino starting with the 40mm Bambino v2 in steel, with its white dial and blued hands. I own the edition with rose gold-toned touches. I actually bought it after writing the aforementioned article. And while I do not wear it a ton, it is one of the watches I appreciate most. It’s a sub-$300 watch that looks and feels like something at five times that price tag. I will also be looking at the 38mm version that was introduced last year as part of a trio on bracelet, an addition that gives the ...
SJX Watches
Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...
Worn & Wound
Heinrich, the Stuttgart based indie brand known for reinterpreting classic watch designs of the 1970s (sometimes with lots of color) is back with their latest release, the Radiance. This latest effort from Heinrich is a new take on the dress watch (a trend we’ve been spotting more and more in recent months), and it’s interesting to see the brand’s distinct design language applied to a genre of watch that, on the one hand, they aren’t typically known for, and on the other is also not what we think of when we think of “watches of the 1970s.” That’s perhaps oversimplifying things a bit: Heinrich has made watches that aren’t completely over the top tool and sports watches before (put one of these Helicoprions with a stone dial on a strap, and you’ll be ready for almost any cocktail party), and of course there were plenty of dress watches made in the 1970s and 80s, but it’s fair to say that most of the watch designs pulled from those decades veer toward the sporty. Back to the Radiance, the prevailing idea here seems to be an experimentation on the brand’s part with softer lines and a clean, simple case. The case is stainless steel and 38.5mm in diameter and just 8mm tall thanks to the use of an ETA 7001 manually wound movement. Those are dress watch proportions, to be sure, and the lugs have been gently curved as well to make the watch wear closer to the wrist. Again, dress watch DNA. Finishing is a mix of brushing and polishing, with a clearly defined ...
Monochrome
The king of ultra-thin watches is back… Mostly known for his popular Wristmons series, we tend to forget that Konstantin Chaykin is also a highly talented independent watchmaker, a member of the AHCI and a man capable of creating extremely complex watches and clocks. He has, for example, applied for close to 100 patents. Last […]
Monochrome
Anyone familiar with Moser’s concept watches knows that ‘concept’, in Moser’s vocabulary, means maximum minimalism: no logos, no indices, no inscriptions…just the bare essentials. Moser is also intimately associated with beautiful dials and has shown how traditional métiers d’art, like Grand Feu enamel, can create strikingly contemporary dials. The latest Endeavour Tourbillon Concept is a […]
Monochrome
Byrne is an independent watchmaker that debuted in 2021 and is known for its original design and playful dial animations featuring customisable, changing indices. At the heart of its innovation is the Gyro Dial complication, which allows the cuboid indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock to rotate instantly at midnight or on demand […]
SJX Watches
Originally a low-key, perhaps even boring, vintage remake, the Commander 1959 Pixel Dial livens things up with a vibrant array of blue, purple, and pink squares printed on the black dial. The new Mido departs from our usual focus on higher-end mechanical watchmaking, but at a little over US$700, it combines affordability, good-enough quality, and fun. The blue and pink squares are actually Super-LumiNova on matte black, creating a striking illuminated pixel dial in the dark. The dial is housed in the classic Commander 1959 case characterised by a “Milanese” mesh bracelet, flat bezel, and domed acrylic crystal, which evokes an unmistakable mid-century aesthetic that contrasts with the funky pixel dial. Initial thoughts Several of Mido’s recent releases, including the Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961, combine inject vibrant colours and details into vintage-inspired designs. The new Commander 1959 continues this with its unmistakably 1950s-style case paired with a modern dial. Despite the dial’s array of colours, legibility is excellent thanks to the wide hands and markers. The Pixel Dial is a simple iteration of the original, and consequently remains affordable at US$740. Like many other watches in the same price range made by Mido’s parent Swatch Group (which also owns Tissot and Longines amongst others), the Commander 1959 is equipped with the Powermatic 80, a no-frills, economical movement that nonetheless provides an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Pattern...
Monochrome
Today, there is only one Reverso, with Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on its dial, but this was not always the case. During the 1930s, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Cartier made watches that used the Reverso case for their timepieces. Moreover, the 1931 Reverso was not the first reversible case design. A few years earlier, Universal Geneve […]
Hodinkee
Printed dial, of course.
SJX Watches
Launched quietly last year as limited production runs of the standard model, the Tank Américaine “Art Deco” gives a striking new look to a familiar model that was first introduced in 1989. Though the Art Deco-style dial is mostly associated with the low-cost (and low-end) Tank Must de Cartier, it has been artfully applied to the Américaine with varying surface finishing and thoughtful details. The result is a Tank Américaine that looks radically different from the standard model, while being priced the same. Initial thoughts The Tank Américaine was conceived as a modern take on the Tank Cintrée, but because of its wider availability, numerous variants, and comparatively affordable pricing, the Américaine has become something of a poor cousin in the eyes of enthusiasts. The new variants of the Tank Américaine, however, are clearly trying to change that. They look and feel more upscale with the “Art Deco” dials that do away with the central seconds, which are long standard for automatic versions of the Tank Américaine. The yellow gold version Both are identical in dimensions. The case is a little wider and thicker than the Cintrée, so it’s not quite as elegant. And the 1899 MC movement inside is in-house but industrial and not as sophisticated as the manual-wind calibres (that are either Piaget or Jaeger-LeCoultre) in the Cintrée. But the Américaine “Art Deco” is more affordable, with the yellow gold version priced a little over US$16,000. The “Art...
Fratello
Michiel Holthinrichs, an architect turned watch manufacturer, made a name for himself and his brand by introducing the world’s first watch with a 3D-printed stainless steel case in 2016. State-of-the-art technology and machining processes created cases with swooping lines and sensual curves, but the human touch made the watches sexy; the machines could only do […] Visit Trying On Two Versions Of The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament, The Dutch Brand’s Entry-Level Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
Rado watches stand out with their use of modern materials and the originality of their design. The brand collaborates on a regular basis with international designers. Among the countless initiatives in this field, in 2021, British industrial designer Tej Chauhan applied his creative vision to the True Square with a bold yellow take on the […]
SJX Watches
First launched in 18k yellow gold a little over two years ago, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 finally debuts in stainless steel. Sticking to the familiar vintage-remake template established by the gold model, the 222 retains the familiar “bottle cap” bezel and applied Maltese cross emblem, but in brushed steel. Like the gold model, the 222 “Jumbo” in steel is executed to a high level of fit and finish – certainly superior to that of the vintage original – and it’s presented in the classic livery of a matte blue dial (great) and faux-vintage lume (not so much). More importantly, the steel 222 substantially more affordable than the gold version, about half as expensive in fact. Initial thoughts The 222 in gold was well received at launch in 2022; it helped that the roll-out took place when integrated bracelet sports watches were all the rage. That success made the steel version a certainty. Vacheron Constantin (VC) took a little longer than I expected to unveil the steel 222, but now it’s finally here. The watch is, admittedly, predictable. It has all of the familiar elements found in the vintage originals and then the gold reissue. But it is still appealing, because the quality of execution is high and the proportions of the watch are good. Compare this to a vintage 222 and the improvement in build quality, particularly of the bracelet, is immediately obvious. Although the steel 222 is compact by modern standards, it has the refined quality of a con...
SJX Watches
Ordinarily a faithful vintage remake with an old-school aesthetic, the Conquest Heritage gets a makeover for the Chinese Lunar New Year. The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake stands out with a striking red gradient dial featuring gold-plated hands and indices. And for the occasion, the back bears an engraved snake motif penned by Chinese contemporary artist Wu Jian’an, who drew inspiration from the ancient Chinese fable, “Legend of the White Snake”. Initial thoughts The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake offers something more modern and striking, instead of the conservative look of the standard model that has a silver or black dial. I particularly like the fact that the snake motif is limited to an engraving on the case back, as having it on the dial would have been overly ornate. It’s priced at US$3,150, almost exactly the same as the regular production model, which makes it a decent value proposition. It has a workmanlike quality appropriate for the price, while the high-spec ETA movement inside is one of its strengths. And like other zodiac-theme watches, this would have resonance for those born in the Year of the Snake a meaningful way to commemorate the occasion, not unlike wearing a birthstone. Vintage inspired The snake edition is identical to the standard model save for the dial and case back engraving. Water resistant to 50 m, the stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter, 10.7 mm in thickness, and entirely polished. It’s slightly larger than the ori...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe had an active 2024, not just because of the launch of the ref. 5330G World Time with Date, a massive collection of Rare Handcrafts, and of course the Cubitus. But equally notable was the announcement of updates to the Patek Philippe Seal. Buried on the last page of its 2024 Watches & Wonders brochure was some fine print about some updates to the brand’s internal certification that superseded the longstanding Poinçon de Genève in 2009. The updates applied to two things that watch enthusiasts love to argue about: water resistance and rate accuracy. Officially rated to 30 m and -1/+2 seconds a day Initial thoughts Water resistance is never far from the minds of watch geeks, so it’s no surprise that this is dominated the discourse when the announcement was made earlier in the year; the idea of a Nautilus rated to just 30 m was concerning to many. Apparently even the fact that the watch itself was unchanged did little to quiet the nerves. Perhaps because people enjoy the opportunity to punch up, far more attention was paid to the issue of water resistance than the meaningful updates made to timekeeping testing and certification, which cement Patek Philippe’s position as the leader in high-end mechanical timekeeping at scale. The cal. 240 PS CI J LU of the Cubitus ref. 5822P also features a Spiromax hairspring, clearly visible Thirty meters But let’s get water resistance out of the way. Patek Philippe now guarantees all of its water-resistant watches to ...
Monochrome
Our readers might remember reading about the fledgeling French brand Awake, which has taken the ancestral Vietnamese art of sanded natural lacquer and applied it to the dial of its first permanent collection, Son Mài. Inspired by the bright red colour of Remembrance Day poppies, Awake has produced a special Son Maì edition and will […]
Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin celebrates the 20th anniversary of its Patrimony collection with a special edition produced in collaboration with French designer Ito Morabito, more widely known as Ora ïto. The understated soul of the Patrimony is inspired by Vacheron’s slim men’s dress watches of the 1950s, a formula applied across the board to all Patrimony references. […]
Time+Tide
Despite an aventurine dial and sparkly diamond indices, the Antarctique Flying Diamonds is still subtle.The post The Czapek Antarctique Flying Diamonds is dressed up with everywhere to go appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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