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Results for Caliber MT5813

467 articles · 31 videos found · page 17 of 17

Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon High-Frequency Diver Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon High-Frequency Diver Dec 17, 2024

Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon High-Frequency Diver Review

Just over two years ago, Longines launched the Ultra-Chron, a revival of the super-accurate 1968 original that gained notoriety as the world’s first high-frequency diver. Now Longines has released the Ultra-Chron Carbon, which is the brand’s first watch with a case made from carbon fiber, which, of course, is known for its lightweight durability. The watch, in fact, comes in at just 80 grams for the case and strap. The original Ultra-Chron Diver Ref. 7970 from 1968 was a cushion-cased steel watch that measured 41mm wide with 200 meters of water resistance. It was outfitted with the 5Hz Caliber 431 movement, which was accurate to 2 seconds per day. Our resident expert Mark Bernardo went into all the details of this model as well as the brand’s history with high-frequency timekeeping, in an article you can read here.  The 2022 revival was a little bigger, coming in at 43mm wide, but also beefed up the water resistance to 300 meters. This new Ultra-Chron Carbon shares the same basic specs as this revival model but the blacked-out design kind of makes all the difference in terms of style versatility. Rather than a red minutes hand and matching red accents on the bezel, we see a sleek, monochrome aesthetic that is more stealth than sporty. The use of a contemporary material like carbon also offsets some of that overt “vintage-inspired” design language in favor of its own identity. The cushion-shaped case measures 43mm wide and 14mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug measu...

Taking A Closer Look At The Yema Manufacture Morteau Fratello
Yema Manufacture Morteau During one Nov 25, 2024

Taking A Closer Look At The Yema Manufacture Morteau

During one of the last years at Basel, we met the folks from Yema at a nearby hotel. They showed us fantastic and faithful reissues from the brand’s heyday of the 1960s and ’70s. Since then, a lot has changed as there’s now the Yema Manufacture Morteau where three calibers are produced. Let’s look at […] Visit Taking A Closer Look At The Yema Manufacture Morteau to read the full article.

Panerai’s Latest Collaboration with the NAVY SEALS Highlights the Submersible in Four Variations Worn & Wound
Panerai s Latest Collaboration Sep 24, 2024

Panerai’s Latest Collaboration with the NAVY SEALS Highlights the Submersible in Four Variations

Panerai has announced a quartet of watches made in partnership with the U.S. NAVY SEALS, a capsule collection meant to highlight the brand’s mission of crafting reliable, purpose driven watches. All of the models share an aesthetic link through the use of camo patterns and dial effects and are based on collector favorite references from the Submersible collection. In a catalog filled with burly, oversized watches, the Submersible line is perhaps the most outwardly sporty, reflecting a more contemporary approach to divers, chronographs, and GMTs than you might find in the brand’s more heritage focused lines. The first model to receive the Navy Seals treatment is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro NAVY SEALS PAM01518. As the name suggests, this one is based on their stainless steel 44mm Submersible. Instead of their regular lume application, this one features sand-colored SuperLuminova on the hands, markers, and lume pip on the bezel. It is equipped with the Panerai P.900 caliber in-house automatic movement, which operates at 28,800 beats per hour and boasts a substantial 3-day power reserve. “NAVY SEALS” is displayed on the dégradé black to anthracite dial at 6 o’clock. When the watch is flipped over, a beautifully engraved commemoration of the NAVY’s special forces team is revealed. It is rated for water resistance up to 300 meters. The second model is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT NAVY SEALS Carbotech PAM01513. Similar to the previous model, this one is b...

The Peseux 7001 Revival: A Classy Hand-Wound Movement Returns To The Spotlight Fratello
Sep 18, 2024

The Peseux 7001 Revival: A Classy Hand-Wound Movement Returns To The Spotlight

These days, the focus seems to be on whopping power reserves and in-house calibers, with even mid-tier brands jumping on the bandwagon. But if you know your vintage watches, you’ll be aware of a time when everything wasn’t measured in the number of bridges, cogs, and pinions a brand produced by itself. In the car […] Visit The Peseux 7001 Revival: A Classy Hand-Wound Movement Returns To The Spotlight to read the full article.

The Doxa Sub 300T Gets a Destro Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 300T Gets Sep 17, 2024

The Doxa Sub 300T Gets a Destro Limited Edition

It’s kind of hard to believe, but in the long history of Doxa divers, they’ve never made a dive watch with a lefty crown. That’s a bit surprising only because we tend to associate Doxa with the manufacture of professional grade dive instruments in a way that few other watch brands can match, and certainly there are left handed pro divers out there who could have made use of a destro Doxa diver over the decades (say that five times fast…).  Well, it’s a nice time to be a lefty Doxa fan, as the brand has just announced the Doxa Sub 300T Professional Aristera, their first dive watch ever with a crown positioned on the left hand side. It’s a limited edition of 300 pieces, and it’s fitting that the first destro Doxa is a version of what most would consider their core, enthusiast focused diver.  Like other Sub 300Ts, this one is 42.5mm in stainless steel with a short 44.5mm lug to lug measurement. Of course we get the iconic orange dial (hence the “Professional” designation) as well as an aluminum bezel insert. It runs on a Sellita SW200-1 caliber with 38 hours of power reserve, and we can assume it’s been rotated and modified to accommodate the left hand crown position (the date remains at the 3:00 position).  As a left handed person, I’ve always been kind of fascinated with destro watches, even if I don’t personally see much utility in them. Like most southpaws, I wear my watch on my right wrist. And with a normal watch, the crown is positioned facin...

Discovering Hentschel Watches, One of German Watchmaking’s Best Kept Secrets Worn & Wound
Aug 8, 2024

Discovering Hentschel Watches, One of German Watchmaking’s Best Kept Secrets

Hentschel has been on my radar for a while, and I followed the watch company casually for many years – until a mutual friend living in Berlin made the introduction. My curiosity level spiked, and I was ready for a deep dive into the background, manufacturing, watches, and everything that is Hentschel.  A Brief Overview of Hentschel Andreas Hentschel is the watchmaker and founder of Hentschel, based in Hamburg, Germany. Established in 1993, Hentschel has garnered a decent reputation for its craftsmanship and producing high quality mechanical wristwatches. A majority of the watches feature manual winding movements and sub-seconds on the dial. The design is reminiscent of classic pocket watches, but with complex case construction and colorful dials, they appear refined modern. Under the expert guidance of Andreas Hentschel, the family-owned workshop consists of a team of four skilled watchmakers that produce approximately 150 watches annually. According to Andreas, this limited production approach maintains the highest standards of craftsmanship and ensures that every Hentschel watch remains unique. In-House Movements Before I provide you my impression of two watches that I test drove for a month, I would like to address Hentschel’s in-house movements. Hentschel refers to the HUW 1130 S caliber as a “in-house manufactory movement.” Without going into the definition of in-house, Andreas is upfront about it being based on the Swiss A-Schild manually winding 1130 moveme...

Norqain Debuts the Latest in their Neverest Collection Worn & Wound
Norqain Debuts Jul 8, 2024

Norqain Debuts the Latest in their Neverest Collection

Mt. Everest has long held a grip on our cultural consciousness – and for good reason. Not only is it Earth’s highest mountain, but it takes an almost superhuman amount of determination and grit to scale it. Then, of course, there is the rich history of the Himalayas, making for an even more fascinating landscape – geographically and culturally – for our imaginations to explore. With all of this in mind, it seems that NORQAIN’s latest in their Neverest collection shows appreciation to the history, mystique, and people of the region through their Glacier Black and Ice Blue references. The 41mm DLC coated Neverest GMT Glacier Black features a black glacier dial inspired by the crevasses on Mt. Everest, with a second time zone and a 24-hour indication on a black and white ring surrounding the dial. The DLC black coating brings the overall appearance of the watch together, while the red-gold plated indices and hands add some contrast. The 40mm Neverest Glacier Ice Blue boasts an ice blue glacier dial with cracks that mimic the crevasses on Mt. Everest. The dial features diamond-cut, faceted blue indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova and blue diamond-cut faceted hour and minute hands. The steel case is paired with a blue ceramic bezel and is water-resistant up to 200 meters, ensuring reliability under even the most extreme conditions. Both watches are powered by a NORQAIN Manufacture Caliber by Kenissi. The Glacier Black model runs on Caliber NN20/2, which offers a ...

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Has Gone Two-Tone (Or, Bi-Color) Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Professional Has Gone Jun 5, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Has Gone Two-Tone (Or, Bi-Color)

Is two-tone back? Is it on its way back? Has it returned and then left again? I feel like for as long as I’ve been involved in watches as a hobby, people have been saying all of the above regarding multiple metal watches. I think the most common shared perspective is that two-tone watches (that’s usually, but not always, watches made with both steel and gold) were a staple in the 1980s, fell out of favor, and have been threatening a comeback pretty consistently for the better part of a decade. But I think maybe two-tone is as back as it’s ever going to be, meaning just about every signature (“iconic,” if you must) watch collection has a two-tone example. This week, we add the Speedmaster to the list, with two new references featuring Moonshine (yellow) and Sedna (red) gold.  The new two-tone (or “Bi-Color” in Omega terms) Speedys are from the Professional line, meaning these are Moonwatches at their core, even though they have just a bit of bling. That means a manually wound 3861 caliber with METAS certification, and the classic 42mm Speedmaster case. These references see gold applied to the bezel, crown, pushers, center links of the bracelet, and throughout each dial. The Moonshine Gold reference has a silver dial with gold tone subdials, while the Sedna Gold version has a dial coated in Sedna PVD with black subdials. Of course the most immediate question at hand is which one do you prefer, aesthetically? For me, it’s the Sedna Gold reference every day of...

Eberhard & Co. Debut Two New Chronographs at their First Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Breguet numerals Apr 29, 2024

Eberhard & Co. Debut Two New Chronographs at their First Watches & Wonders

Earlier this month at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Eberhard & Co. unveiled two new chronographs, expanding its 1887 line-up, first developed in 2019. The Swiss brand unveiled both the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée and the Chronographe 1887 Automatique. These timepieces represent a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the brand’s founding date and its rich heritage that has made it a staple on the Swiss market for over 130 years. According to the Maison, the development process of these chronographs was meticulous, involving extensive research and study of original Eberhard & Co. chronographs dating back to the 1930s. Preserved at the Eberhard & Co. Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds, these timepieces served as the primary source of inspiration for the design and technical aspects of the new releases. Both the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée and the Chronographe 1887 Automatique are powered by exclusive calibers developed in collaboration with Manufacture AMT. The movements (EB 280 and EB 380, respectively) feature a column wheel and the fly-back complication, a nod to the precision timing required in aviation during the 1930s. The EB 280 in the Limitée is manually wound, while the EB 380 in the Automatique is, as the name of the watch implies, self-winding. The primary aesthetic difference between the two references is the use of baton style hour markers on the Limtée and Breguet numerals on the Automatique. Each is available with white or black dials...

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet would launch their own Apr 18, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph

This is a pretty big year for A. Lange & Söhne. We’ve hit 25 years of the Datograph, which made its debut in 1999, and Lange is celebrating with a pair of very special limited editions of their iconic chronograph. One of them is truly off the wall, and we’ll get to that next week. For now, we’ll take a look at the Datograph Up/Down Limited Edition in white gold, with a blue dial. It’s a perfectly lovely example of the watch that many Lange collectors will insist put the brand on the horological map, and a strong counterpoint to the other Datograph that we’ll tell you more about soon.  First, it’s crucial to understand the importance of the Datograph not just in Lange’s collection, but in high end watchmaking writ large. When it was first unveiled in 1999, Lange was a young brand, only five years into their relaunch. They had earned the respect of connoisseurs in the late 1990s, but the introduction of their first in-house chronograph caliber with the Datograph took them to another level. This was years before Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet would launch their own in-house chronograph calibers, in an era where using supplied calibers from chronograph was common for brands at every level, including the absolute upper tier. It can be argued that the Datograph ushered in an arms race of sorts that would find many of the highest end watchmaking manufactures in a constant state of one-upmanship that goes on to this day.  There have been a variety of Datograph...

Garrick Launches an S2 with the Most Esoteric of Complications: Deadbeat Seconds Worn & Wound
Ming events Jan 10, 2024

Garrick Launches an S2 with the Most Esoteric of Complications: Deadbeat Seconds

Garrick, one of our favorite watchmakers in the burgeoning “micro-indie” space, has introduced a watch that is truly niche to start 2024. Really, it’s a niche of a niche, because even the most straightforward Garrick is a highly specialized enthusiast focused object. Each one is custom made for its owner, and Garrick offers a head spinning variety of customization options so clients can truly make their new watch their own. Now, with the latest entrant in Garrick’s growing S2 lineup, customers can opt for one of the most unusual and esoteric complications of all: the deadbeat second.    The Garrick S2 Deadbeat Seconds employs the  Calibre DB-GO6, a movement built from the ground up with an unusual party trick: instead of a smooth sweeping motion that most mechanical watch collectors are accustomed to, the seconds hand driven by this caliber “ticks” in a manner that is similar to a quartz watch. It’s anachronistic to say the least, and the complication has come to represent something akin to an insider’s secret for the way it upends expectations about how we expect a mechanical watch to function. Historically, the complication has roots in the scientific community, as timing events to the second in this manner was advantageous in certain circumstances.  The S2 case is 42mm in stainless steel (gold cases are also available) and customers begin the custom ordering process by selecting either a MK 1 dial (with a heat blued skeletonized chapter ring) or a MK...

21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Richard Mille as their “everyday” brands Jan 1, 2024

21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026

The definition of an everyday watch can, of course, be highly subjective, based on one’s individual needs, tastes, and budget (I have met people who rock A. Lange & Söhne, F.P. Journe, and even Richard Mille as their “everyday” brands). But most of us can get behind Teddy’s idea that an everyday watch is one that combines versatility with specifications suited for day-to-day needs; it can be dressed up or down, is highly legible in most conditions, and is water resistant enough for worry-free daily wear (i.e., rated to at least 50 meters). As a timepiece that will spend much more time actually on the wrist than in a safe, it should also be affordable. Hence, our selection of the 21 best everyday watches starts under $500 and tops out under $10,000. Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the recently introduced NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish: blue, yellow, green, turquoise, and black. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for...

Breitling Unveils a New Capsule Collection of SuperOcean Divers Inspired by the Scottish Highlands Worn & Wound
Breitling Unveils Dec 14, 2023

Breitling Unveils a New Capsule Collection of SuperOcean Divers Inspired by the Scottish Highlands

In 2020 Breitling presented their throwbackiest watch to date. Yes, I made up that word. From its distinct concave bezel to its form fitting mesh bracelet, the SuperOcean Heritage ‘57 very much looked the part, yet had a very contemporary sizing of 42mm. Since then, this watch has been offered in multiple color variants, which included a very impressive rainbow colorway that featured a black dial and multicolored hands and indices.  Being so wildly different from their other SuperOcean models, including the standard Heritage line, I do not believe it got the attention it deserved. Despite being 42mm, the Heritage ‘57 was only 9.9mm thick. Its profile was impressive, and the lug thickness matched the bracelet thickness perfectly. It must have been a joy to wear.  Breitling is now introducing four new versions of the Heritage ‘57 dubbed the Highlands Capsule Collection. These new pieces have been downsized to more traditional vintage proportions and many will be jumping for joy at the 38mm diameter and short 42mm lug to lug length, making this one truly unisex. Somehow, they have even managed to shrink the thickness down to only 9.35mm and maintain the 100m of water-resistance. Inspired by the Scottish Highlands, there are four land-and-sea inspired dial colors available: beige, green, mustard, and blue. They all feature stainless steel cases and scratch-resistant ceramic bezels rimmed in 18k red gold. Powering these watches will be the Breitling Caliber 10 (a modifi...

12 Yellow-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Tsuyosa Price $450 Case Dec 8, 2023

12 Yellow-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury

Yellow is a color meant to draw attention: there’s a reason it’s used in road signs, stoplights, and to highlight important text passages. When yellow is used on a watch dial, you can usually be sure that it’s a watch that is meant to be anything but understated and subtle - whether the tone is a bright, matte “signal” yellow or a more elegant, shiny-surfaced gold or champagne tone. Here are a dozen yellow-dialed watches that span the gamut from sporty to luxurious - and from affordable and easily accessible to expensive and ultra-exclusive.  Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish, including the standout yellow version above. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for better ergonomics on the wrist. The bracelet has what Citizen describes as a “mountain-shaped” design thanks to its individually curved links; the center links and the bezel are both sleekly polished. The self-winding...

Seiko Recreates the Classic Reference 6117 with the New Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko Recreates Oct 3, 2023

Seiko Recreates the Classic Reference 6117 with the New Prospex Land Mechanical GMT

Seiko made some big news this morning, with the long rumored announcement of a new version of their classic 6117 Navigator Timer. That vintage reference is critically important for many Seiko collectors, an early GMT from 1968 in the same familiar design language of many classic Seiko sports watches. With new GMT calibers now in production, many enthusiasts expected the timing was right for a modern rendition of the 6117, and today they got their wish in the form of the SPB411, the Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition. This new reference is a fairly faithful rendition of the classic watch from the 60s, with modern components and design choices only where they’re most appropriate, and plenty of restraint everywhere else (no Prospex logo on the dial!). For GMT fans and Seiko collectors, the SPB411 is a significant new release.  All the hallmarks of the 6117 would appear to be present in the SPB411. Namely, the distinctive cushion case, the rotating 24 hour bezel, and a slate gray dial. The “Navigator Timer” wordmark no longer appears on the dial, but otherwise it’s a solid recreation, with rectangular hour markers and thin, block hands carried over to the new release, as well as a short red arrow GMT hand. That gray dial has a sunray finish, and we get a date window at 3:00 with a contrasting white background. Most importantly for fans of the original, the case size has remained consistent. The SPB411 comes in at 38.5mm in diameter, just about half a mi...

Christopher Ward Debuts a Pair of C63 Sealanders with their SH21 Movement Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Debuts Mar 16, 2023

Christopher Ward Debuts a Pair of C63 Sealanders with their SH21 Movement

Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander, the brand’s value oriented, all purpose sports watch that debuted in April 2021, is getting an upgrade this week, and for a good cause. With all of the press concerning Christopher Ward’s Bel Canto at the end of last year, it would be easy to forget that they have another, perhaps even more significant, horological achievement in the Calibre SH21 movement. This five day, chronometer certified movement is the brand’s flagship, and the first industrialized mechanical caliber from a British watch brand in fifty years. It’s genuinely historic, so when they put it in a watch for the first time, it’s a special occasion by default. These new Sealanders live up to the occasion not just in terms of design and aesthetics, but by being the face of a worthy charitable endeavor as well.  The C63 SH21 Blue Marine is the latest watch that Christopher Ward has made in partnership with the Blue Marine Foundation, a marine conservation organization that the brand has worked with several times. For this release, 5% of the sale price of Blue Marine watch will go back to the organization to benefit their efforts around cleaning the ocean of rising levels of plastics. Similarly, the C63 SH21 Snow Leopard is being launched with the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, another longtime Christopher Ward charitable partner. The DSWF is a wildlife charity that funds conservation projects throughout Africa and Asia, and for this release 5% of the sale of ...

New: Bulova Accutron Astronaut Deployant
Accutron Astronaut DEPLOYANT - Feb 18, 2023

New: Bulova Accutron Astronaut

One of the most notable aspects of the Bulova Astronaut Re-Edition is its design. The watch features a 41mm stainless steel case with a black dial and luminous hands and markers, similar to the original watch. It also features a distinctive Day/Night bezel which helps the wearer track two time zones simultaneously. The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, which ironically makes it no longer the 'most accurate watch in the world'; a phrase used to describe the original 1968 model with the 214HN sub-caliber.

Breitling Introduces Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 May 24, 2022

Breitling Introduces Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 Limited Edition

One of the watches synonymous with the pioneer era of spaceflight is the Breitling Cosmonaute, which was worn by Scott Carpenter on the 1962 Mercury-Atlas 7 mission, making him the second American to orbit the Earth and the Cosmonaute the first Swiss-made wristwatch to make it into space. The Cosmonaute has been part of the Breitling catalogue in various forms in the decades since, but now for the 60th anniversary of Carpenter’s journey to space on board the Aurora 7 spacecraft, Breitling has unveiled a remake, the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute Limited Edition. The 362-piece edition is faithful to the original in terms of design, but upgraded with the in-house Caliber B02 and a bit of luxe in the form of a platinum bezel. A page from the 1964 Breitling catalogue showing the Navitimer-Cosmonaute ref. 809, the same model worn by Carpenter in space Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the distinctive aesthetic of the Navitimer – it is actually an aviation instrument – and the Cosmonaute is essentially a more complex version of the same thing, making it even more of an instrument. Granted all of that functionality has very limited use in the modern world, but it is still an appealing watch that possesses significant history. That in turn makes the Cosmonaute remake an appealing watch, especially since Breitling did a good job reproducing the original. The diameter remains the same but the modern-day version is necessarily thicker due to the in-house B02 movemen...