1,736 articles · 17 videos found · page 17 of 59
Monochrome
In 2016, Armin Strom rocked the watchmaking scene with the release of its Mirrored Force Resonance, an incredible technical breakthrough that miniaturised the centuries-old concept of synchronised motion into the confines of a wristwatch. Using two independent oscillators coupled by a patented resonance clutch spring, Armin Strom breathed life into Christiaan Huygens’ observation that two […]
Fratello
I live about 25 minutes from the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam. I have lived there all my life, but I somehow never visited the museum. So, last week, when my wife and I had a free morning, we decided to take the plunge. This article isn’t about Van Gogh or about art at all. […] Visit The Watch Enthusiast Trap: Knowing More Can Lead To Enjoying Less to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has installed its high-end quartz calibre 9F in a 33 mm stainless steel case with fan-favourite textured dials, making one of the most advanced analogue quartz movements available in the smallest and slimmest format to date. The compact proportions of the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Quartz 33mm “Snowflake” SBGX359 and “Skyflake” SBGX361 are possible thanks to a new member of the 9F family: the cal. 9F51. Though smaller, the new calibre retains all the technical bells and whistles of this class-leading quartz platform. Ref. SBGX359 (Snowflake). Initial thoughts While Grand Seiko’s quartz models are generally known as good value propositions, with the cal. 9F in particular representing a lot of movement for the money, that has generally been less true of the brand’s smaller models. These maintain the brand’s standout case and dial work but with relatively pedestrian cal. 4J movements. Though above average in terms of quality and technology, the cal. 4J lacks the torque necessary to accommodate the exceptionally large and refined hands found on most Grand Seikos. Ref. SBGX361 (Skyflake). Given the brand’s recent emphasis on Spring Drive technology, seemingly at the expense of battery-powered quartz movements, that seemed unlikely to change. In this context, this duo is a pleasant surprise, with more likely to follow, and offers a no-compromise Grand Seiko experience in a smaller size without the high price tags of the ladies automatic line. A ...
SJX Watches
The Classic Tech Art is the latest, bespoke time-only piece from independent watchmaking duo Molnar Fabry, and a fine example of the pair’s modus operandi. Starting off from a Vaucher cal. 5401 ébauche, the watchmakers applied extensive finishing to both seen and unseen surfaces within the movement. While this exact configuration is unique, similar designs can be commissioned from the Slovakia-based creators. Initial thoughts Molnar Fabry’s calling card is open-worked movements and the Class Tech Art doesn’t disappoint in that respect. While the case back side of the movement is richly engraved but structurally unaltered, the tastefully open-worked dial reveals the usually hidden assemblies that make the Vaucher calibre tick. The duo behind Molnar Fabry operates outside the influence of many Swiss watchmaking traditions. As a result, the brand’s house style of finishing is somewhat unorthodox. Mixes of metals are on show, along with a rich blend of textures and shapes. The style might not be to everyone’s tastes, but Molnar Fabry’s work feels refreshingly original in today’s market. The two watchmakers shift the focus from proprietary movements and high-tech specs to true hand finishing. That said, the Classic Tech Art exemplifies a more streamlined vision of the brand’s design language, opting away from the excessively ornate cases the brand has produced in the past. This may point towards them going more mainstream - at least to the extent that a b...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts a trio of new perpetuals calendars, led by the first open-worked version of brand’s cutting edge perpetual calendar launched last year with the skeleton cal. 7139 inside the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak. And rounding out the trio is the first all-ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar powered by the cal. 7138. Initial Thoughts The open-worked version of AP’s latest-generation perpetual calendar movement arguably does most justice to a clever movement that is one of the most notable such movements on the market. While there was little visual difference between solid-dial versions of AP’s new perpetual calendars and the preceding versions, the open-worked examples are less similar, at least up close, as the perpetual calendar works are so clearly different. The new open-work dial givers owners a look at what is going on under the hood as they adjust the calendar, which I see as a significant value add given the unusual and innovative mechanics. While AP could have been more daring, the last year’s crop of Royal Oak Perpetuals were good looking watches. The new pair, in both Code 11.59 and Royal Oak formats, look nearly identical from an arms length to their predecessors. The open-worked models are mostly monochrome, the Code 11:59 is rhodium-plated white gold with a black ceramic mid-case while the Royal Oak is titanium with polished Palladium 500 bulk-metallic glass (BMG) accents and rose gold dial furniture. Neither break new ground for the b...
Worn & Wound
Regular readers might remember our coverage of the debut watch from VPC almost two years ago. This was a special project as it comes from Thomas van Straaten, whose byline many of you may have seen over at his main gig, as a writer at Fratello. The Type 37HW, the debut release from VPC, was conceived as something as the ultimate enthusiast’s watch, with special attention paid to the small details that serious watch lovers are particularly attuned to. In practice, that means you end up with a watch that is very subtle, with lots of things that are special about it but perhaps don’t advertise themselves in big bold colors. VPC, after all, is an acronym for a Latin phrase that translates to “beauty through restraint,” and if that isn’t a mission statement of enthusiast focused watch culture, I don’t know what is. For the second VPC release, the brand is back with a watch that builds on the design language of the Type 37HW but shifts it specifically into the realm of the dive watch. The Type 39VM is, according to the brand, the thinnest 200 meter water resistant automatic dive watch on the market, which is a bold claim but seems to be backed up by a cursory review of the data. The case height is listed at 9.34mm, which is quite thin indeed for a watch like this. In keeping with VPC’s design principles, van Stratten set out to create a watch that was purely functional but also didn’t sacrifice ergonomics or aesthetics. Through an exploration of figuring out wh...
Worn & Wound
If you’re a Mad Men fan like me, then you may remember a particular scene in season 1 where Don Draper and Rachel Menken are having a conversation and the concept of utopia briefly comes up. “Maybe,” says Rachel, “They taught us at Barnard about that word, ‘utopia’. The Greeks had two meanings for it: ‘eu-topos’, meaning the good place, and ‘u-topos’ meaning the place that cannot be.” While the latter may be true for an ad exec and his department-store-heiress-slash-mistress, it doesn’t have to be for you, dear reader. All thanks to Italian watchmaker, Venezianico, who has released their Redentore Utopia II. Inspired by the Lagoon of La Serenissima, there is undoubtedly a sense of otherworldiness that this watch brings to the market, with its dial decorated with hand-engraved waves, creating a kaleidoscopic effect. Further inspired by the Neoclassicism of the Palladian Basilica, the textured dial is complemented by a 38mm stainless steel case that offers clean lines and simple ergonomics to balance the intricacies of the dial and the transparent caseback.Visible beyond it is the V5001 calibre, an evolution of the V5000 that marked a turning point for the brand. Made in Italy, the movement maintains a slim 3.5 mm profile and a 60-hour power reserve, all while improving upon previous iterations with elevated finishing, such as bridges and a mainplate treated with a 24-carat gold galvanic coating, radial Côtes de Genève, and fine perlage. The Red...
Monochrome
Young, independent Dutch brand VPC (Venustas Per Constantiam) returns with its next release, the Type 39VM, following its debut model, the Type 37HW. Founded by Thomas van Straaten, watch journalist at Fratello, collector, and now the founder of the design-driven microbrand, VPC was created around a beauty-through-restraint approach. After setting a standard with its hand-wound […]
Fratello
It has been nothing but an enjoyable experience to watch Fratello’s Thomas van Straaten build his watch brand. I greatly respect the passion and determination that Thomas puts into VPC Watch Co. Today, VPC launches its second model, the Type 39VM. This new dive watch is nothing short of impressive. The fact that the Type […] Visit Introducing: The Impressive VPC Type 39VM to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Tudor turns 100 this year. The same age as Dick Van Dyke and American Airlines. Anniversaries like this are a big deal in the watch industry – we’ve just been through a year where both Vacheron Constantin and Breguet celebrated major milestones, each with a series of special releases. That’s the playbook for a watch brand: milk the year for as long as possible with new releases that feel special. It’s a sensible strategy given that it inherently leans into heritage and prestige, both ideas that have been proven to sell watches successfully for years. This isn’t meant to be a prediction of what might be in store for Tudor this year – plenty of outlets and watch media figures have already weighed in on that topic. We don’t have any inside information, of course, so any guesses as to what Tudor might do would be just that. My hunch, though, is that we won’t see obviously anniversary inflected pieces dropped throughout the year in the same way we saw from the likes of Vacheron and Breguet in 2025. It doesn’t feel like that’s part of the Rolex DNA that Tudor shares. I expect we’ll see some very subtle 100 year mentions in Tudor marketing, a special watch or two that is not explicitly tied to the anniversary but as recognized as honoring it just the same, and perhaps something a little more celebratory around Watches & Wonders or an athletic event that Tudor is involved in (there will of course be many of those throughout the year). What I’m much more int...
Monochrome
Founded in 1934 by Raymond Dodane, Lebois & Co. built its reputation during the golden age of mechanical watchmaking, crafting elegant, precision-driven chronographs. After decades of dormancy, the brand was revived in 2016 by a Dutchman, Tom van Wijlick, with a clear mission: to honour its heritage through nicely executed timepieces inspired by its vintage […]
Monochrome
Artya, the brand created by Yvan Arpa, is never shy to break the rules and to create watches with impressive character. Even though recent models have toned things down a bit, specifically the sleek and organic Purity Wavy or Luminity Wavy, the family-run business is always answering the call for innovation and creativity. As part […]
Monochrome
A historical name of the watch industry (founded in 1934), Lebois & Co was revived in 2015 by Tom van Wijlick, a Dutch entrepreneur who’s also responsible for the comeback of Airain and its Type 20 and 21 pilot’s watches. Although still hesitant at the beginning, the brand truly found its stride with the 2022 release of the […]
Worn & Wound
The Windup Watch Fair, especially the New York City edition, has increasingly become a venue for brands to debut new watches aimed at their enthusiast fans. It makes a lot of sense if you’ve ever been to a Windup – there’s an incredibly high concentration of watch lovers in a single place, and many of them are in what you might call a buying mood. And of course, the new stuff is often the most enticing when that particular mood strikes. This year, Serica got in on the act, debuting new references in the Parade collection, their unexpected but incredibly well executed “dress watch” from last year. “Dress watch” is in scare quotes here because of course it’s quite a bit more complex than that, but it’s perhaps easiest to understand the Parade when you view it as a contrast (and complement) to Serica’s sportier offerings. A quick refresher, in case it’s needed, on the Parade. Serica refers to the case as “stadium” shaped because it’s based on the architecture of the Roman Stadium, with straight sides that blend into an elliptical shape at 12 and 6. On the wrist, it presents as an oval, but a look at the case in profile (or any angle other than top down) reveals the case construction makes this one tough to pigeon hole. It offers 100 meters of water resistance while being just 8.2mm tall thanks to “sandwich” style construction that uses screws that hold the case together from the back and are housed in and protected by the bezel. This is far f...
Worn & Wound
If you ever have the chance to try on a Greubel Forsey - any Greubel Forsey - take it. For one thing, these are rare watches, and it’s a cool thing to be able to say you’ve done. For another, Greubel makes objectively awesome watches, and any watch enthusiast should try out as many awesome watches as they can. But more important than that, Greubel Forsey is one of those brands whose quality is hard to understand through the internet. Greubel Forsey is a brand that defies expectation. Since the launch of Greubel’s first watch in 2004, Greubel Forsey has pushed the limits of both technical and aesthetic watchmaking, and they’ve done it all without sacrificing their unique character, or seemingly ever needing to compromise. In fact, the Greubel Forsey of today is - at least outwardly - a brand with a clearer identity than most, that also happens to do what it does really, really well. A few weeks ago, in Geneva, our two Zachs had the chance to sit down with the brand to see the proof of that in person, and to catch up on some of Greubel’s latest releases, including the brand new QP Balancier and the new Nano Foudroyante - a direct successor to last year’s superb Nano Foudroyante EWT - each of which have been announced in highly limited editions of 22 watches, and each of which are great reminders of just how far Greubel has come in the last 25 years. It also doesn’t hurt that both the QP Balancier and the Nano Foudroyante easily rank among the most...
Monochrome
Since Christiaan Huygens paired a balance wheel and spiral spring in 1675, the hairspring has been the beating heart of every mechanical watch. Its material has always dictated chronometric performance. Steel, used for centuries, suffered from magnetism and temperature drift. Special alloys developed in the 20th century improved reliability – from Elinvar to Nivarox/Nivachron, made […]
Fratello
After weeks of discussion among our editors and a single session of reader voting, the results are clear: the Rolex Datejust 1601 has emerged as the favorite in our editors’ Datejust lineup. While initially highlighted by Thomas van Straaten as his pick, the 1601 received 41% of the vote, demonstrating broad appeal among collectors and […] Visit The People Have Spoken: The Rolex Datejust 1601 Reigns Supreme to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Ask and ye shall receive, dear readers! Well, within reason. Quill & Pad reader and frequent commenter Greg has been after GaryG for a while to write a piece on his Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph, most recently in response to Gary's article on three “keepers” from his collection that don’t get a lot of wrist time. Gary didn’t include the Deep Stream on that list as it is a quite frequent wearer for him, but now its time in the spotlight has come.
SJX Watches
The world of Swiss watchmaking is a small one; everyone seems to know everyone. This is especially true among the exclusive ranks of enamellers. In total, there are about 120 practicing enamellers in Switzerland, largely concentrated in Geneva, which has been a leading hub for fine enamelling for more the 400 years. Of these, four artisans have recently taken up residence at Émailleurs de la Cité (EC) in Geneva’s Old Town. A newly established enamel workshop founded by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia and Florent Olivier Martin, EC crafts a small number of grand feu enamel dials annually for Mr Rexhepi’s own watches and for select clients like Biver. Though recently opened, the workshop has the feel of a mature and highly organised operation, benefiting from the obvious experience of the staff – Mr Martin was formerly the production director at the respected dial specialist Olivier Vaucher – and the attention to detail for which Mr Rexhepi is known. The enamel workshop is a fitting addition to his growing empire, and is conveniently located just steps away from Akrivia’s watchmaking atelier on Grand-Rue, the picturesque cobblestone thoroughfare that runs through the Old Town. The hand-engraved gratté pattern is applied personally by Mr Rexhepi. The art of enamel Brands like Patek Philippe consider enamel a “rare handcraft”, and for good reason. While industrial groups like the Swatch Group seem to have largely mastered the production of quality enamel dials at (v...
Worn & Wound
The Windup Watch Fair is returning to Chicago from Friday, July 11th through Sunday, July 13th, and it’s shaping up to be another unforgettable weekend celebrating all things watches, gear, and community. Hosted in the heart of the West Loop at Venue West, this 2025 fair continues our 10th anniversary tour and will once again be free and open to the public. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just getting into the hobby, Windup offers an approachable, hands-on experience with dozens and dozens of incredible brands from around the world. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 11 – Sunday, July 13, 2024 Venue West 221 N Paulina St Chicago, IL 60612 Free and open to the public. To get you warmed up, here’s a look at standout timepieces from our Lead Sponsors, namely: Atelier Wen, Casio, Christopher Ward, Citizen, and Oris, that you’ll most definitely want to see in person. Atelier Wen – Perception Artistry meets engineering in the Perception, Atelier Wen’s flagship model that fuses traditional Chinese craftsmanship with modern horology. Its hand-engraved guilloché dial ,crafted in collaboration with master artisans in China, is unlike anything else in its price range. Powered by the in-house SL1588 micro-rotor movement, the Perception is bold, elegant, and unapologetically different. See the finishing for yourself under the lights of the Windup showroom. Casio – G-SHOCK MTGB4000 Tough just got sleeker. Casio’s MTGB4000 is the latest evolution in G-SHOCK...
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen has been revived in fine style thanks to its investors and of course Kari Voutilainen. With the Finn in charge of watchmaking, the reborn brand made its debut with a trio of watches led by the flagship Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon. Inspired by the Oval pocket watch made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen, the UJ-1 is impressive in its execution, from construction to decoration. The quality is evident across the watch, which is unsurprising given Mr Voutilainen’s role in its conception and production. And the occasionally controversial lugs give an otherwise classical watch a distinct character. Initial thoughts The fine details of the UJ-1 are easily apparent in the metal. The movement decoration and construction are both impeccable, and so is the guilloche on the dial. But it is details like the engine turned case back and typography that give the UJ-1 that little bit of extra refinement. It is obvious from the photos, the movement quality is outstanding. Frosting, black polishing, chamfering, and so on – all are expertly accomplished. Moreover, all of the decoration is done in a traditional, often manual manner, rather than being mostly done by machine and then finished off by hand as is increasingly the case now. But finishing is merely the more obvious aspect of the appeal. The construction of the movement is equally impressive. It captures the style of the Oval pocket watch, including the three-dimensionality and clean aesthetics. Even though...
Worn & Wound
Get ready, Windup Watch Fair fans-we’re headed back to Chicago! Continuing the 10th anniversary tour of Windup, Worn & Wound is thrilled to announce that the Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2025 will take place Friday, July 11th – Sunday, July 13th at Venue West. We’ll be bringing together watch enthusiasts, collectors, and some of the most exciting brands in the industry for a weekend packed with timepieces, community, and hands-on discovery. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 11 – Sunday, July 13, 2024 Venue West 221 N Paulina St Chicago, IL 60612 Free and open to the public. For the fourth year in a row, we’re returning to the heart of the West Loop with a strong lineup and fresh programming. Whether you’re a seasoned watch lover or just starting your watch journey, Windup Chicago offers something for everyone. As always, Windup is free and open to the public so bring your friends and family. All are welcome. This year, we’re proud to welcome Atelier Wen, Casio, Christopher Ward, Citizen, and Oris as our Lead Sponsors of the show. These five brands represent the incredible diversity of modern watchmaking-from iconic heritage designs to rugged tool watches, from innovative materials to independent vision. In addition to the bustling show floor, Windup Chicago 2025 will feature exclusive panels, live podcast recordings, and behind-the-scenes conversations with some of the most interesting voices in the watch world. These sessions offer a chance to dive dee...
Monochrome
Looking back at the history of watchmaking, there are some inevitable names to be mentioned: Abraham-Louis Breguet, John Harrison, Thomas Mudge, John Arnold, Antide Janvier, Jean-Marc Vacheron and Christiaan Huygens, just to name a few. Moving up North, in the city of Copenhagen, to be precise, we have to talk about one of the most […]
Monochrome
In recent years, Citizen has gained incredible visibility with its ultra-accessible take on the 1980s watch with (sort of) an integrated bracelet, the Tsuyosa. With its cool design, fun colours, multiple sizes, and fair price, it brought back the brand on the cool wall (Top Gear viewers will understand the reference…) Building on the success […]
Worn & Wound
The next stop in our ongoing celebration of 10 years of Windup, the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco, is now right around the corner and if you’re like us, you’ve only got one thing on your mind: what watches am I going to see? Whether you are planning to stop at specific brands on your tour of the Fort Mason venue, or your plan is to wander through the nearly 90 different watch and EDC brands, today we’re highlighting a selection of standout projects from our Lead Sponsors. As always, Windup is free and open to the public, thanks in large part to these brands who continue to support the enthusiast community. You can see all of these brands and more at the 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 2: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 4: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public You can see every sponsor on the Windup Watch Fair website. While you’re on the site, be sure to sign up for Windup updates to make sure you continue to get the latest info in advance of and throughout the Windup weekend. Here’s that sneak peek at the watches of our 2025 Lead Sponsors in San Francisco! anOrdain anOrdain is proud to celebrate the crafts of watchmaking and fired arts by introducing the Model 2 Porcelain. The Model 2 offers a true porcelain dial that was developed in-house after years of research aided by master potters in Stoke-on-Trent, England. Each dial is lovingly handcrafted by p...
Worn & Wound
Amidst the three and four-figure divers that dominate the market, Citizen has a reputation for being the everyman’s watch. Though the brand offers a variety of styles and price points, their dive watches tend to be one of the most popular options amongst their fan base. Launched in 1989, the Promaster series was developed with the goal of providing professional-grade, reliable watches for divers and outdoor enthusiasts. The first Promaster dive watch was equipped with advanced features like a high-water resistance rating, luminous hands for visibility underwater, and a rotating bezel to track elapsed time.These Promasters featured an arrow logo, symbolizing the watch’s ability to “go higher and deeper” than Citizen’s previous collections. This arrow is still included on the crown of modern Promaster references, tying these new releases into a longer history of one of the brand’s favored series. Citizen made waves in the summer of 2023 when they released a smaller version of their Eco-Drive divers. Those releases brought the Eco-Drive Promaster, traditionally sized 44mm, into the realm of the smaller-wristed by shaving off a whopping seven millimeters. These options came in three dial colors: gray, blue, and black, and all had a color-matched bezel. Three more colorways were debuted this past December, which included purple, blue, and red dial options. Along with the new colors, the brand made some aesthetic changes to these 37mm divers. Though the three color...
Monochrome
Well, as far as we know Flamingos aren’t blue. As far as we know, the previous hit of Tudor was pink, and yet it wasn’t named Flamingo… Try to understand. Or simply just enjoy yet another unconventional and fun watch by Tudor. Following the highly-discussed and sought-after Black Bay Chrono Pink last year, which somehow […]
Hodinkee
Why we need to talk about the Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas.
Worn & Wound
This summer, a new American watch company quietly launched in Denver, Colorado. Fittingly named 5280 after the Mile High City where the brand calls home, this watchmaker is tackling an artistic craft that’s particularly near and dear to my heart: vitreous enamel. 5280 is the brainchild of founder Rich Keel, a longtime watch collector. For him, timepieces have always been less about functionality and more about wearable art. In addition to being a lover of watches, Keel is a lover of art of all kinds. “I’ve always been a big fan of Impressionism and its vibrant colors, beauty, depth, and richness-really art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries is what I gravitate toward,” he shares. “Faberge eggs are another artform that’s always fascinated me. So, when I decided I wanted to bring my passion for watches and art together and create my own company, the goal was to put a Faberge egg on a watch face.” Despite his knowledge and appreciation for art, Keel admits he’s “utterly inept when it comes to being artistic,” so he knew he’d have to tap the right craftsman to execute his vision. Enter Bill Brinker, an expert in guilloche and enamel work and a true artist through and through. I’ve had the pleasure of interviewing and training with a number of masters in the arts of guilloche and enamel work throughout my career and in my personal pursuit of the crafts, but none have quite as unique and fascinating a story as Brinker. He hails from a tow...
Worn & Wound
In this edition of our ongoing Three Watch Collection for $5,000 series, reader Elodie Townsend offers up a trio of watches that hit a variety of enthusiast touchstones. Elodie, a watch and automotive enthusiast based in California, has some fun with the format here, dividing up her choices into three distinct categories. Together, they form a cohesive, hypothetical collection with genuine variety and a ton of value. The idea of a three-watch collection totaling $5,000 is both enticing and daunting. As an automotive enthusiast, I’d wager that it mirrors the classic “three car garage” problem, but with even more potential for argument; the vastness of the used watch market and ever-changing design and style trends make any trio of timepieces ripe for debate. To either combat controversy or further court it, I’ve chosen three categories for my list: Busy, Affordable, and Conversation Starter. Basically, the “Busy” watch will embody the spirit of tool watches-many complications, most of which you will never use, but guaranteed to delight the gearhead in all of us. The “Affordable” option represents an entry-level watch for the new (or penny-pinching) enthusiast. Lastly, the “Conversation Starter” represents a piece that will draw eyes to your wrist, whether you like it or not. The Busy Watch: Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer ($1,310.00) It doesn’t get much more complicated than the Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer; even the name i...
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