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784 articles · 8 videos found · page 17 of 27

Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum Worn & Wound
Nomos Unveils Oct 4, 2024

Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum

I attended the 5th year of Nomos’s annual forum this week, and even though the theme was about design and colors, it was the new manual winding movement that received the most attention.  As a seasoned writer who has closely followed Nomos’s trajectory, I often find myself anticipating the brand’s future moves. However, even with my extensive experience, the unveiling of the Tangente 2date ($2,760-$3,020) caught me off guard. I will be very open about what resonated with me, and what left me puzzled. Let’s begin with the movement itself. The DUW 4601 is a new manual winding caliber with a slim height of 2.8mm, and 52 hours of power reserve. Speaking with Mirko Heyne, head of research and development at Nomos, I learned that the previous manual winding caliber, DUW 4101, had the same height with a normal date complication, 42 hours of power reserve, and not the nice finishing we see on the new 4601. Both have the Swing System, the proprietary escapement developed by Nomos. In summary, the new movement delivers extra power reserve, better finishing, and has an additional date complication while still remaining the same height as the previous movement – that’s because the patented date wheel is integrated into the mainplate. Another significant technical advancement in the 4601 caliber is the quick set date mechanism. You can easily jump forward with the crown in the second position.  When I saw the standalone movement with Mirko, my first impression was the sli...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver WatchAdvice
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Oct 3, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver

We go hands-on with the newly released Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch to see how heritage and tradition meet modern-day needs! What We Love: The textured dial and 3D markers add depth to the watch High legibility making time reading easy The easy-wearing ergonomic design What We Don’t: The bracelet clasp design is still lacking in finesse Crown placement at not quite 4 o’clock seems off-balance The closed caseback hides what would be a nice-looking movement inside Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Seiko has been on a bit of a walk down memory lane with many of their releases this year, looking back at the old vintage models from the 1960s and ’70s as inspiration and reviving some of these pieces for modern-day customers. It seems that this is a little bit of a trend currently, and has accelerated over the last few years with people looking for different pieces to place on their wrists. Many brands in the watch world have gone down this path, and it does make for some great vintage homage or revival pieces and a slight break away from the norm. Seiko has some great heritage pieces, and with their latest release, Seiko has gone back over 50 years to 1968, just three years after their very first dive watch and re-incarnated it in 2024 in the form of the Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver, with a black dial and white dial variant to choose from. First Impressions We had ...

First Look - The New Ice-Blue, Europe-Only Seiko Presage Style60’s SRPL19 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Style60’s SRPL19 Released Oct 1, 2024

First Look - The New Ice-Blue, Europe-Only Seiko Presage Style60’s SRPL19

Released in 2021, the Presage Style60’s was positioned as Seiko‘s vision of a casual, all-rounder-oriented and vintage-inspired watch. Far from the classism of the Craftsmanship Series or the funky colours of the Cocktail models, this collection was loosely based on the 1964 Crown watch, Japan’s first wrist chronograph – hence the sporty touch of this […]

Rado Over-Pole Review Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rado Over-Pole Review Sep 16, 2024

Rado Over-Pole Review

In 2022, Rado re-released the Over-Pole as a limited edition of 1,965 pieces. The diameter remains as svelte as the original at 37mm. The height of the case is 10.4mm, and the lug-to-lug is 43mm. The lug width is 19mm, and it has a water resistance rating of 100m, though it does not have a screw-down crown. The case is fully polished. Interestingly, Rado chose to use a manually-wound movement for this reissue, rather than the automatic movement an original Over-Pole would have used. The movement is known as the Rado R862, and is modified from a Powermatic 80 found in other Swatch group watches. It has 80 hours of power reserve, and the Nivachron hairspring to increase its anti-magnetic properties. The movement is well finished, and can be seen through the watch’s transparent caseback.

Longines’ Retro Legend Diver 39 mm in Modern Colours SJX Watches
Blancpain have established Sep 3, 2024

Longines’ Retro Legend Diver 39 mm in Modern Colours

For the 65th of its trademark vintage dive watch of the 1960s, Longines is giving the modern remake a set of new colours. The new Legend Diver is essentially extensions of last year’s release, retaining the double-crown case in the smaller 39 mm size and gaining new dial colours in green, terracotta, or anthracite grey. The model is equipped with a “grains-of-rice” stainless steel bracelet with a micro-adjustment feature. Initial thoughts While many brands, namely Rolex and Blancpain, have established a familiar template for the dive watch, Longines has its a distinct design with the Legend Diver that has its characteristic Super Compressor case with two crowns and internal bezel. The design isn’t unique to Longines but the brand has arguably been most successful with it in the modern day And compared to other Super Compressor-style divers in this price range, the Legend Diver has the advantage of a higher-spec movement in the form of the COSC-certified L888.6 with 72 hours of power reserve. This makes the Legend Diver an appealing and affordable watch that’s priced at US$3,400. Lacquered colours The highlight of the release are the lacquered dial in green, terracotta and anthracite grey. The colour extends to the rotating bi-directional bezel designed for measuring dive time. The bezel can be rotated utilising the screw-in crown at two o’clock. The dial layout is symmetrical with no date, and features elongated indices and raised Arabic numerals coated with Su...

16 Of The Best Pilot And Aviation Style Watches For Under $1,000 Worn & Wound
Aug 25, 2024

16 Of The Best Pilot And Aviation Style Watches For Under $1,000

In our most recent shop video, Devin looks at 16 of the best pilot and aviation-style watches on the market for under $1,000. One of the more popular and distinct watch types out there, pilot and aviation watches have a rich history with a broad selection of options. What other watches would you have liked to see make the list? In our most recent shop video, Devin looks at 16 of the best pilot and aviation-style watches on the market for under $1,000. One of the more popular and distinct watch types out there, pilot and aviation watches have a rich history with a broad selection of options. What other watches would you have liked to see make the list? The post 16 Of The Best Pilot And Aviation Style Watches For Under $1,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

(Video) Incredible Watch Engineering from a Brand You Need to Know - Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Worn & Wound
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Aug 1, 2024

(Video) Incredible Watch Engineering from a Brand You Need to Know - Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force

The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...

Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium Please Jul 22, 2024

Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium

Please, come closer. It’s worth it. When you do, you can find that the movement inside the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium comprises 194 parts and features no fewer than 16 types of manual finishing. This results in a sophisticated and impressive watch that is both complicated and minimalistic; indeed, it is a paradox in […] Visit Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium to read the full article.

Business New: Louis Ferla Appointed CEO of Cartier SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin since 2017 – during Jul 2, 2024

Business New: Louis Ferla Appointed CEO of Cartier

Capping several months of rumours, Richemont has just announced the appointment of Louis Ferla as the chief executive of Cartier. Having been in charge of Vacheron Constantin since 2017 – during which its annual sales tripled to about €1 billion – Mr Ferla succeeds Cyrille Vigneron, who is retiring after eight years at the top of the jewel in Richemont’s crown. This news comes just weeks after Nicolas Bos was named chief executive of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that also owns brands like Van Cleef & Arpels and IWC. Mr Bos was the longtime chief executive of Van Cleef & Arpels and will be replaced by Catherine Rénier, who’s been running Jaeger-LeCoultre since 2018. Elevating VC Officially assuming the coveted top job at Cartier on September 1, Mr Ferla has been with Richemont since 2001 when he joined Alfred Dunhill, before moving to Cartier in 2006 where he rose to International Director of Clients and Business. His tenure at Vacheron Constantin saw the brand increase both its sales and margins as the brand trimmed its retail network to focus on in-house boutiques, while also boosting its offerings of high-end, one-off Les Cabinotiers timepieces. Vacheron Constantin has yet to announce Mr Ferla’s replacement, but his deputy, chief commercial officer Laurent Perves, will step up as the interim chief executive. Mr Ferla’s name became the subject of conversations in the industry at end 2022, when it emerged he was one of the candidates to succeed Francois...

Exhibition: Breitling’s “Time Capsule” on Four Continents SJX Watches
Breitling s “Time Capsule” Jun 26, 2024

Exhibition: Breitling’s “Time Capsule” on Four Continents

Time Capsule: The Breitling Heritage Exhibition is coming to a Breitling boutique near you as it makes 55 stops across four continents over the course of 2024. On show are the most significant vintage timepieces – mostly chronographs naturally – from the brand’s 140-year history, including the first-ever chronograph with a pusher separate from the crown, a 1915 invention of Gaston Breitling. Many of the watches on show were the first of their kind, hence the exhibition’s tagline “140 Years of Firsts”. Amongst the other highlights is the Navitimer with its slide rule bezel that Breitling describes as the first flight computer for the wrist, and the Chrono-Matic, the first self-winding chronograph movement developed by a consortium that included Breitling. Amongst the more recent timepieces is the Emergency, the first wristwatch with a built-in distress beacon. The vintage timepieces are exhibited in streamer-trunk display cases tailored to each boutique with QR codes in the showcases that provide additional historical detail Vintage timepieces are the main highlights of the show. The exhibition is making stops in key cities in the Americas, Europe, Oceania, the Middle East, and Asia, with some stops happening concurrently. Each stop will be for one to two weeks in the local Breitling boutique. Time Capsule is open to the public. Scheduling an appointment is not mandatory but recommended. A few of the cities that will host the exhibition are as follows, for the ...

Splitting The Anatom - Hands-On With The New Rado Anatom Automatic And Its Vintage Predecessor Fratello
Rado Anatom Automatic Jun 20, 2024

Splitting The Anatom - Hands-On With The New Rado Anatom Automatic And Its Vintage Predecessor

Just over four decades after its debut, the Rado Anatom is back. It’s bigger than ever with a mechanical movement instead of a quartz one, a bezel and crown in black high-tech ceramic, and a middle case in black PVD-treated steel instead of traditional steel. The new Anatom also shows an impressive edge-to-edge sapphire crystal […] Visit Splitting The Anatom - Hands-On With The New Rado Anatom Automatic And Its Vintage Predecessor to read the full article.

How An Altimeter Works And Why We Think They’re Cool Worn & Wound
Jun 19, 2024

How An Altimeter Works And Why We Think They’re Cool

An altimeter is a device used to measure the altitude of an object or a person above a particular fixed level, usually sea level. There are various types of altimeters, including pressure, sonic, radar, laser, and GPS. In this instance, we will be focusing on the kind that uses atmospheric pressure to make measurements, as these are commonly found in aircraft and used by skydivers, hikers, and mountain climbers. The technology is relatively straightforward: the higher the altitude, the lower the atmospheric pressure. An altimeter is a device used to measure the altitude of an object or a person above a particular fixed level, usually sea level. There are various types of altimeters, including pressure, sonic, radar, laser, and GPS. In this instance, we will be focusing on the kind that uses atmospheric pressure to make measurements, as these are commonly found in aircraft and used by skydivers, hikers, and mountain climbers. The technology is relatively straightforward: the higher the altitude, the lower the atmospheric pressure. The post How An Altimeter Works And Why We Think They’re Cool appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Citizen Dive Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Dive Watches Guide Citizen Jun 11, 2024

Citizen Dive Watches Guide

Citizen Watch Co. of Japan has been making watches for 100 years, and a glance at the brand’s current portfolio reveals that quite a few of those watches are dive watches. It’s not surprising, since Citizen has been in the business of supplying watches for divers since the early 1980s, and has been extending the variety of styles, functionalities, and even movement types available in the various collections ever since. So how do you decide on whether you want your first (or next) Citizen dive watch to be an Eco-Drive or an automatic? An everyday-wear Fugu, a multipurpose Aqualand, or a deep-diving Eco-Zilla? Our comprehensive guide is here to help you, with a brief history of Citizen dive watches and a rundown of all the styles available today. Swiss watchmakers began embracing purpose-built, water-resistant divers’ watches in the early 1950s, while their contemporaries in Japan came aboard a decade or so later. As many history-minded watch enthusiasts are aware, it was Citizen’s competitor, Seiko, that released the first Japanese-made divers’ watch, in 1965. However, Citizen’s Parawater, regarded as the first “water-resistant” Japanese watch, preceded it to market six years earlier, in 1959. The Parawater watches (as above) were waterproof to 50 meters of depth, an impressive feat for the era, and they were the forerunners of Citizen’s contemporary line of dive watches, which began in the 1960s but really kicked into gear with the release of the Promast...

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone Jun 7, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone

Omega continues to expand the range of its famous chronograph with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Colour. Following the recent Moonwatch with a white dial, the two-tone models are based on the Speedmaster cal. 3861 from 2021. The new pair share the 42 mm case, stepped dial, and “Nixon” bracelet, but they get a two-tone livery with gold elements in the bracelet, bezel, dial, crown, and pushers. And the gold is, of course, either one of Omega’s proprietary alloys, Moonshine or Sedna gold. Initial thoughts Before the long-overdue update in 2021, most notably with the cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch was beginning to feel dated in terms of tech and specs. The iterations introduced since the update have been spaced out well and fill logical gaps in the Moonwatch lineup, essentially creating a variant of the Moonwatch for everyone. This two-tone pair is a good example of that. Though steel-and-gold variants of the Moonwatch have existed in the past, they have never been common, or even that popular. The new models aren’t for everyone, but a useful addition to the lineup. Both are Moonwatches in terms of intrinsic features and design, but look very different from the quintessential, no-frills steel model. The two-tone models cater to someone who wants a Moonwatch with a bit more shine and a slightly retro feel. At US$18,100, the two-tone Speedmaster is a fair value proposition. It’s significantly pricier than the all-steel version, but priced in line with...

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 Fratello
Panerai s New Luminor Dieci May 21, 2024

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482

Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip WatchAdvice
Christopher Ward Baltic Formex May 17, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip

In the early 2020s, everything was shut down, and the watch industry was beginning to stagnate. However, one man decided to make the most of it and designed a watch – inadvertently helping facilitate the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ But do we believe the hype? Let’s find out! What We Like: A non-serious yet refined design Remarkable build quality for the price point Comfortable and well-made strap with plenty of adjustment What We Don’t: Insufficient lume Crown and pushers are extremely fiddly to use Low power reserve Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 7/10 The 2020s post-pandemic watch industry has been coined by some to be the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ for those unfamiliar with the term, a microbrand is a watch brand, usually independently owned and run by a small team – Essentially a small business or a start-up, in normal terms. What the ‘Rise of the Microbrand’ indicates is the massive resurgence of interest in said start-ups, which in turn has been a contributing factor to saving modern horology as we know it. That might sound like hyperbole to you, but I don’t say it lightly – Microbrands like Christopher Ward, Baltic, Formex and Farer have grown to the point where they now challenge household names. Every day, promising young microbrands such as HZ Watches also come out of the woodwork, transforming the industry in small but significant ways. We even got the chance to look at a HZ wat...

Explained: The Detent Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s natural escapement May 8, 2024

Explained: The Detent Escapement

Among the many different escapement types, one in particular stands out, the detent escapement. Taking its name from détente, French for “trigger”, this system is often considered to be the purest type of escapement due to its efficiency and virtually lubrication-free operation. Any sort of mechanical clock or watch requires an escapement, a mechanism that transfers torque from the power source to the regulating organ. The escapement bridges the steady rotation of the gears in the going train and the oscillation of the balance. As a result, the escapement fulfils a double function, both maintaining the swing of the balance and regulating the discharge speed of the mainspring and going train. The detent escapement was invented in the second half of the 18th century,  somewhat simultaneously but independently by the English watchmakers Thomas Earnshaw (1749-1829) and John Arnold (1736-1799). A somewhat similar escapement was prototyped by the Frenchman Pierre Le Roy (1717–1785) some three decades earlier, but the modern detent escapement is derived mostly from Earnshaw’s design. Initially, the escapement was conceived for use in marine chronometers, explaining why it is also known as a chronometer escapement. The chronometer escapement also inspired many innovative subsequent escapements, like the Breguet’s natural escapement, the Robin escapement, and the Daniels co-axial. Drawings of detent escapement types taken from ‘The Marine Chronometer: Its History and ...

Seiko GMT Watch Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko GMT Watch Buyer's Guide Apr 25, 2024

Seiko GMT Watch Buyer's Guide

More than just about any other watchmaker, Japan's Seiko has become known for offering not only multiple styles and complications in its product families, but also several different types of movements - from affordable quartz, to proprietary hybrid Spring Drive, to high-tech solar and radio-controlled, to classically traditional mechanical. However, one Holy Grail combo that has eluded Seiko and its fans until very recently is the rare GMT (aka dual-time) watch powered by a mechanical movement and priced at what most would consider entry-level for a budding collector. Fortunately, the past few years of R&D; have yielded several all-new GMT-equipped, self-winding mechanical movements for the Japanese megabrand, which have found their way into several models in its modern collections. Here’s a guide to familiarize yourself with all the Seiko mechanical GMTs on the market now - and yes, all of them offer the enticing value proposition that has made Seiko a darling of enthusiasts at every level of economic means. SEIKO 5 SPORTS The Seiko 5 Sports series traces its roots all the way back to 1963 and the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define Seiko’s entry-level mechanical collection today. These include automatic movements, date or day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the w...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR Fratello
Tudor vs Rolex battle Last Apr 21, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR

It’s Sunday morning! Yes, that means it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown inspired by the new releases we saw at Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s time for a full-on Rolex showdown after last week’s Tudor vs. Rolex battle. Last year, The Crown introduced the 18K yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR to read the full article.

Tudor Debuts A Monochromatic Black Bay 41 SJX Watches
Tudor Debuts Apr 14, 2024

Tudor Debuts A Monochromatic Black Bay 41

Last year, Tudor revealed an updated version of its classical diver, the Black Bay 41 with a refreshed crown, bracelet, and bezel designs. Initially presented with a rich burgundy-hued bracelet, the brand has now introduced a more monochrome aesthetic, showcasing a new black dial accentuated by silver markers. Initial thoughts This year’s latest release is interesting to say the least. It encapsulates the enduring allure of traditional dive watches, but the modern color scheme takes from the classic allure. Unlike its predecessor, the new model does away with any gilt accents – which bestows this timepiece with a more minimalist and utilitarian aesthetic. True to Tudor’s tradition, the value proposition remains exceptional. Priced at US$4,225 for the steel model with a rubber strap (slightly higher with bracelet options, whether the five-link version or the vintage-inspired riveted bracelet), it compares favourably with similar sports watches. The Black Bay’s winning formula lies in its straightforward design with classic cues, excellent craftsmanship, and accessible price, solidifying its status as a compelling diver choice. Last year’s Black Bay 41 with its burgundy red bezel and gilt accents A black and silver livery One questionable aspect of the revamped design is the similarity it bears to the modern Rolex Submariners. The clean, silvered accented black dial resembles the iconic Submariner more than ever. Save for the new uniform colour scheme, the watch ha...

Introducing - The Classic Tudor Black Bay (41mm) Goes All-Black Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay 41mm Goes Apr 9, 2024

Introducing - The Classic Tudor Black Bay (41mm) Goes All-Black

Last year, Tudor unveiled a deeply refreshed version of its original Black Bay – understand the 41mm edition – featuring multiple important changes; Master Chronometer movement, updated and slimmer case, new bracelet options, new clasp, new crown and new bezel… Almost an entirely new watch. First presented in the classic burgundy and gold colour scheme, […]

New Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition Watches Two Broke Watch Snobs
Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition Mar 22, 2024

New Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition Watches

The Baltic Hermétique line has been the brand's consciously sized, vintage-inspired dress/field watch with a crown that sits flush with the case. The versatility of the watch, due to its size and the ability to wear it on either wrist with the recessed crown, has made it a fan favorite. Baltic has chosen bold textures for the new limited edition dials but still keeps everything we know and love about the Hermétique line.