Hodinkee
Introducing: Bulgari's New Lee Ufan Limited Edition and Tourbillon Marble Octo Finissimos
From super edgy to super smooth, these two new limited editions cover a lot of ground for an 11-year-old model that's become an icon.
Results for Lume (Super-LumiNova)
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Hodinkee
WatchAdvice
Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? (Hands-On)
As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre Calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once felt far beyond the brand’s reach. And at Watches & Wonders Geneva this year, Raymond Weil unveiled perhaps its most...
WatchAdvice
Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
TAG Heuer has released a new look Carrera that is very different to the standard racing-inspired models. The Carrera Astronomer is designed to cast your eyes to the heavens with its new moonphase complication, and we’ve gone hands-on for a review. What We Love The dial design is unique and looks great Very easy to wear and comfortable 39mm size The Beads of Rice bracelet elevates this piece What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dial No micro-adjust on the clasp A date display could have added to the functionality Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For TAG Heuer’s first outing at Geneva Watch Days, it has released some very cool pieces, one of which (well, three really) is the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer. A new take on the traditional moonphase complication, TAG Heuer has set out to embark on a new phase for the famous Carrera line. It has introduced three different variations of the Carrera Astronomer – A 500-piece limited edition with grey dial accents and leather strap, a seconds 500-piece limited edition two-tone steel and 18k rose gold plated model, and this, which I’m reviewing today – the full stainless steel model as part of the core collection. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Collection with two limited edition pieces on leather and in two-tone, and the full steel core collection model But why an astronomical complication in the Carrera? So, in 1962, a significant moment in both watc...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Releases Seen During Geneva Watch Days 2025
Another Friday, another list! This week, we will follow up on last week’s article on the brands to watch during Geneva Watch Days. We have seen many great releases from various brands in this super-busy week. Some are hyper-expensive timepieces with grail potential, while others are more affordable stunners from small brands. As a result, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Releases Seen During Geneva Watch Days 2025 to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Automatic TOP GUN Editions Review
This year, IWC launched 41mm time-only versions of their Lake Tahoe and Mojave Desert Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN editions. In a slimmer case size, but still with the looks and feel of the bigger chronograph siblings, we had to test them out! What We Love The white ceramic on the Lake Tahoe is super fresh. The size and lighter weight make these very easy-to-wear watches Both rubber straps are comfortable, and each has nice design touches. What We Don’t The Mojave Desert can blend into your skin depending on your skin type The anti-reflective coating on the slightly domed crystal does make it hard to take a good photo! The luminescence on the hands and dial could be better and of a higher grade. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 First Impressions When I first saw the white Lake Tahoe Pilot’s Watch 41 Top Gun earlier this year, I was keen to get both it and the Mojave Desert model to compare them properly. My initial impression? They’re essentially the same watch, just in different colourways, with the Mojave on a fabric-inlaid rubber strap and the Lake Tahoe on straight rubber. But sometimes, that slight aesthetic difference makes all the impact, as I was to find out! The Lake Tahoe feels fresh and bold. With its all-white case and strap against a black dial, it jumps off the wrist. The Mojave Desert, with its sand-coloured case, strap, and matching indices on a grey dial, is far more subdued. It blen...
WatchAdvice
Hands On With The New Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite
It was only a matter of time before Zenith added a meteorite dial to the Chronomaster Sport collection, and now, they have! We’ve gone hands-on with it to test it out on launch. What We Love The meteorite dial, obviously! The El Primero movement The versatility of the watch itself What We Don’t The subdials can blend into the grey meteorite dial The bracelet still needs improving Lack of lume on the dial Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Believe it or not, this is the first time I’m officially reviewing the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. And lucky me, it just so happens to be the newly released meteorite dial version. Ok, it’s not that I haven’t worn the Zenith Chronomaster Sport before, I gave my thoughts on the green dial variant post its release at LVMH Watch Week in 2024, and then I subsequently took it on tour with me to New Zealand to see how it holds up as a watch you can travel and holiday with. But I never reviewed it in the true sense of the word, or gave it a rating. Until now. Hot off the press, or should I say, from the Manufacture in Le Locle is the new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Dial. The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Dial Meteorite dials are nothing new, but they do transform the look of a watch. The use of meteorite also elevates the price, too, thanks to the difficulty in working with the rock, not to mention the obvious fact that you’re not just creating ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Legend Diver Review
The Longines Legend Diver is one of the brand’s most popular and lauded vintage-inspired watches due to its distinct style and tremendous value for money. The original Legend Diver that serves as the template for the contemporary iterations is the Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042 that was launched back in 1959. In 2007, Longines debuted the Heritage Revival, which was a faithful reissue that was followed up with a date-window version in 2009. Fast forward to 2017 and Longines began to expand this collection to include options like a Milanese bracelet as well as a 36mm iteration to join the existing 42mm model. Then in 2023, we saw the Longines Legend Diver debut in a 39mm wide case that serves as the template for the white-dial iteration I review here. Of course, this is a truncated version of the Longines Legend Diver story, and you can read the full version by our resident historian Mark Bernardo here. There are currently eight dial-color variations in the Longines Legend Diver family: beige, black, blue, brown, green, grey, orange, and white, which is the most recent and the one I am going to get into here. If I had to pick a favorite, it might actually be the orange, which is more of a muted terra cotta that looks just excellent. That said, the white-dial model introduced earlier this year is a sleeper diver that stays with you long after you first see it. It’s not too difficult to nail a watch when you’ve mastered dial color techniques the way Longines has, but ...
Deployant
Mr Worldwide: Review of the Citizen Attesa Eco-Drive Radio-Controlled
We take a look at the latest addition to the Citizen line-up, featuring the Attesa Eco-Drive Radio-Controlled with the brand's DLC Blue Super Titanium.
Monochrome
Portrait - Benedikt Prand-Stritzko on his Watchmaking Journey and Fouding Aurelia Horology
It’s a well-known fact that we have a deeply rooted passion for independent watchmaking, and as such, we always keep an eye out for talented newcomers. Fortunately, with the rise in popularity of indie watchmaking, there is a lot to be discovered from all around the globe! Whether something is super-complex and ridiculously finished, or […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue
Nivada Grenchen goes back almost a century to 1926 and has a sizeable portfolio to draw from for modern reissues, such as the Depthmaster “Pac-Man”, Super Antarctic and many more. Although a victim of the Quartz Crisis, like many other brands, it came back in 2020 with faithful releases at accessible prices. The latest Chronosport […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Typsim Goes All-In on Vintage Accuracy with the 100M
Discover the Typsim 100M, a $999 vintage-inspired diver with gilt dial detailing, custom aging lume-designed by a watchmaker with zero shortcuts.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Laventure Marine Type 3 - A Specialized Instrument In Grade 23 Titanium
Just in time for summer, Clément Gaud presents us with the lightest and smallest Laventure watch to date. The Marine Type 3, available with either a black or full-lume white dial, features a case crafted from Grade 23 titanium. Like all of Clément’s watches, the Marine Type 3’s design takes inspiration from vintage timepieces. This […] Visit Hands-On With The Laventure Marine Type 3 - A Specialized Instrument In Grade 23 Titanium to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Farer Refreshes Its Aqua Compressor Line With Three New Designs
A new movement and upgraded lume complement new dial designs.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Three New Aqua Compressors Show Farer’s Subtle Evolution
Farer updates its Aqua Compressor line with three models featuring the La Joux-Perret G101 movement, upgraded lume, and refined dials.
Time+Tide
The Farer Aqua Compressor returns with a titanium case and a new movement
Returning to the catalogue, this super deep diver comes with some serious updates and raises money for a good cause. The post The Farer Aqua Compressor returns with a titanium case and a new movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - Farer Launches a New Generation of Aqua Compressor
The original Farer Aqua Compressor Endeavour from 2017 was a surprise from the small British brand. Not only did it have an impressive 300-metre water-resistance rating, but it was also a bona fide super compressor – its caseback compressed against a gasket as water pressure increased with depth, forming a tighter seal. The latest trio in […]
SJX Watches
Kollokium Introduces the luminous Projekt 01 Variant F
Known for its quirky pixelated dials and brutalist die-cast cases, Kollokium has introduced the Projekt 01 Variant F, which takes the brand’s signature dial and elevates it with hundreds of individual Lichtblock lume elements. The violet lume elements feature various sizes and heights, and are clustered around the even-numbered hour markers to provide a degree of legibility. It’s a striking look, especially when the lights go out and the lume can truly shine. Founded in 2020 by Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium has released a total of six models since inception. All models to-date have used roughly the same 40 mm die-cast steel case and the same basic design concept. The Variant F is a limited edition of 399 pieces and will be available directly from Kollokium and its authorised dealers in June 2025. Initial thoughts After years collecting watches, it’s easy to feel like every new watch is a remake of something else, because for many brands, especially towards the lower end of the price spectrum, that tends to be true. So it’s refreshing when a new brand like Kollokium manages to create a recognisable and distinctive aesthetic from day 1. The Variant F features the same 40 mm die-cast steel case as previous Kollokium models, but the water resistance has been increased from 30 m to 50 m. To clear the taller hand stack, the box-shaped crystal is also a bit higher, adding about a millimeter to the overall height, which is now 11.95 mm. The choice...
Time+Tide
Oris continues its annual tradition with a luminous twist for 2025’s Hölstein Edition
The first Big Crown ProPilot without a date window, this full lume dial Oris has a bear-shaped Easter egg.The post Oris continues its annual tradition with a luminous twist for 2025’s Hölstein Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Edgy New Citizen Zenshin Senkei Chronographs
Last year, Citizen debuted a series of Super Titanium chronographs with integrated bracelets. The watches were received well for their looks and affordability. Since then, the brand has formally changed the names of these chronographs to Zenshin Senkei. Four more references now join the collection, but as we’ll see, new colors are only a part […] Visit Introducing: The Edgy New Citizen Zenshin Senkei Chronographs to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Breitling Top Time Martini Racing Review: A Winning Partnership
The Breitling Top Time Martini Racing is a stylish tribute to the brand’s motorsport heritage, blending retro 1960s design with the iconic flair of Martini Racing, and here is how it performs in the modern-day watch world… What We Love The vibrant colours and dial stand out on the wrist A super easy-wearing watch thanks to its dimensions and lightness A great If You Know, You Know (IYKYK) collaboration What We Don’t The 38mm size wears on the smaller side, and may not suit larger wrists The domed crystal does distort the tachymeter scale on the outer section of the dial Start function on the chronograph is a little stiffer than expected Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Two Brands, One Shared Passion Normally when watch brands embark on collaborations with companies or brands outside the watch world, there is normally a pre-existing association in place. Usually through a sponsorship of an event, or partnership with a movie, that kind of thing. However, with the new Breitling Top Time Martini Racing, this is not quite the case. What it is, however, is a partnership based on a shared passion – Motorsport. Interestingly, neither Breitling nor Martini Racing are motoring brands either. Before you say, “But Martini Racing is one of the most iconic motorsports brands out there!” to which you are right, I’ll preface that statement. Martini Racing is part of Martini & Rossi, the alcohol brand base...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Surprising Ball Roadmaster M Model A
You will remember a Ball watch once you encounter one. The brand’s distinct style immediately stands out from the large crowd of watches available these days. Several of Ball’s watches have tritium micro-gas tubes that light up in the dark. This unique form of lume has led to an instantly recognizable numeral style that defines […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprising Ball Roadmaster M Model A to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Throw Back To Vintage Vibes With The 'Deep Diver' (Live Pics)
With a super-compressor-style case and a ton of color, this could be a great pick for an elevated and exciting summer diver.
Teddy Baldassarre
A-11 Watch: Bulova Reimagines The World War 2 Field Watch
Anyone with an interest in watches and military history is likely familiar with the A-11 watch aka “The Watch That Won The War” due to its role as the standard issue timepiece for the American military during World War II. Elgin, Waltham, and Bulova were the three American watchmakers tapped to produce these watches which came in a few variants with some differentiation in case style with some having coin edge bezels while others didn’t, some with lume and others without, some waterproof and some dustproof. It was the durability, reliability, and the ever-useful hacking seconds function that gave these watches their reputation and we’ve seen our fair share of tributes and rereleases. One that caught my eye when it was released a couple of years ago is likely the least “faithful” to the traditional design but succeeds in presenting something a little different and done a red, white, and blue dial color scheme. The watch, of course, is the Bulova Hack A-11. Bulova A-11 Watch Case: Done in a 37mm wide and 14.5mm thick steel case with a 44.5mm lug-to-lug measurement, the Bulova Hack A-11 is quite conservative in its sizing (even though the original was a now-diminutive 32mm) and works as a versatile unisex field watch. Still, those nice long curved lugs do add some wrist presence that make the watch wear a little bigger than its specs would lead you to think. The case thickness and the added heft of a NATO strap also adds to the substantial feeling of the watch. Th...
Hodinkee
Introducing: G-Shock Throws It Back To The Original 'Rubber Ball' Prototype With The New GA-V01
Retro design, super cool story – it's one of G-Shock's biggest (literally and figuratively) releases in recent memory.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Edition Marine
It’s nice to review a truly affordable watch like the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik every so often. After all, entry-level mechanical timepieces are great for daily wear and can provide a start for new collectors. Sternglas does these watches well and adds thoughtful details, including attractive dials with uncommon lume colors. Today, we’ll look at the […] Visit Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Edition Marine to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Legend Diver Guide
The Longines Legend Diver, introduced in the mid-aughts but tracing its origins all the way back to the embryonic era of modern dive watches in the 1950s and ‘60s, is the epitome of retro-vintage cool for many lovers of sport watches. Here’s how the watch, and its hallmark and still-rare Super Compressor case design, found a successful niche, and an avid audience, in the 21st century. 1959: The Inspiration As with many now-common watchmaking innovations, Longines was one of the pioneers in waterproofing timepieces, making its first water-resistant case as early as 1937, and introducing its first wristwatches purpose-built for recreational diving in the late 1950s. Unlike many of its predecessors and contemporaries in that fertile era of iconic dive watches - like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner (both 1953), and Omega Seamaster Professional (1957) - Longines’s Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042, launched in 1959 and the most direct ancestor of today’s Legend Diver - did not employ the now-ubiquitous, external, unidirectional rotating bezel for its dive scale. Instead, the watch was designed in the so-called compressor style, also used by brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Enicar, and Universal Genève, whose case design included an inner dive-scale ring, positioned on the dial’s flange and mounted under the crystal, which rotated in both directions, operated by an additional crown at 4 o’clock. The “Super” in Longines’ “Super Compressor”...
Time+Tide
You can finally shop Christopher Ward in Australia at our Melbourne Watch Discovery Studio!
The super-popular British independent brand finally arrives 'in the metal' Down Under, exclusively at our Melbourne Discovery Studio.The post You can finally shop Christopher Ward in Australia at our Melbourne Watch Discovery Studio! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
First Impressions of the New A. Lange & Söhne Novelties
A. Lange & Söhne never does half-measures, especially at Watches & Wonders. For 2025, they announced three new models, but a total of four watches: the Saxonia Minute Repeater Perpetual, the Honey Gold Odysseus, and the 1815 in 34mm in rose and white gold. So, one super complicated piece with a ton of features. One rare piece in an exceptional presentation. And two sublimely proportioned everyday watches (in ALS terms). While all were exceptional, the latter of the three left the biggest impression, despite being the smallest in stature. With a name like Minute Repeater Perpetual, there’s not much mystery about what this watch does, but in true Lange fashion, it’s the elegance with which it does it that’s so special. And, naturally, we have to start with movement. The new caliber L122.2 consists of 640 parts and is meticulously finished to the standards one expects from Lange. In somewhat of a departure from their norm, the untreated Glashütte ¾ plate features a frosted finish instead of Glashütte ribbing. Though the result might appear more straightforward, we were told it makes assembly more complicated, and the resulting even surface puts more attention on the governor, black polished hammers, and encircling gongs, not to mention the free-hand engraved balance cock. It does not just look impressive, however, as there are some clever mechanical tricks at play, too, namely regarding the repeater. The typical sequence of chimes includes first single chimes per ...
Time+Tide
The Tudor Pelagos Ultra becomes the brand’s most capable diver with 1,000 metres of water resistance
All-titanium build with an overengineered bracelet and extra-bright lume. This is as good as it gets, folks.The post The Tudor Pelagos Ultra becomes the brand’s most capable diver with 1,000 metres of water resistance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Insight: Rolex Land-Dweller Cal. 7135, Patents and Innovation Explained
Rolex has entered uncharted territory with the Land-Dweller, arguably the most advanced and radical creation from a hitherto conservative brand. The Land-Dweller is significant, perhaps even game changing, not because of the integrated bracelet or patented solid lume, but because of the cal. 7135, a new calibre with an all-new double-wheel escapement known as Dynapulse and a ceramic balance staff. (This story details the technical advances in the movement; for a review of the watch, check out the accompanying story.) The Land-Dweller 40 mm in platinum The fundamentals Why is it significant, or even game changing? The cal. 7135 is the first in-house, serial production Rolex movement that is high frequency, beating at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. All things being equal, a higher frequency promises superior timekeeping. Despite the higher frequency, the cal. 7135 still has a 66-hour power reserve. That’s thanks in part to the Dynapulse escapement which is 30% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while occupying essentially the same volume of space. The balance assembly of the cal. 7135 Dynapulse is one of several innovations that make the cal. 7135 a landmark, especially since it will be produced at scale. While Rolex has traditionally been associated with incremental innovation, the cal. 7135 is a revolution. The Land-Dweller is the subject of 32 filed patents, 18 of which are unique to the watch. Moreover, 16 of the patents unique to the watch are ...