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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Introducing - The Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80, now with Mother-of-Pearl Dial Monochrome
Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80 Aug 20, 2026

Introducing - The Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80, now with Mother-of-Pearl Dial

To say that the PRX collection by Tissot is wide would be a genuine understatement… The range is vast, comprising classic automatic versions, quartz models, several sizes (40mm, 38mm, 35mm and even 25mm recently), standard steel editions, but also unexpected materials (titanium, damascuss steel, carbon) and all the colours you can imagine. And here, I’m […]

Wei Koh and Guillaume Tetu Launch Legare with the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aug 20, 2026

Wei Koh and Guillaume Tetu Launch Legare with the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted

Just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, we see the debut of a new haute horlogerie brand, brought to us in part by Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and the Rake, and a longtime fixture in the watch media landscape. The new brand, Legare, was founded by Koh and Guillaume Tetu, a watch industry veteran who counts Hautlence as well as TAG Heuer and Ralph Lauren on his resume. Koh and Tetu are incredibly well connected professionally, and the first watch out of the gate for Legare reflects that particularly well – this is the product of a lot of collaboration between many partners, and has plenty of pure watch nerd DNA in its inspiration as well.  The brand’s first watch is the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, and takes inspiration from a rare pocket watch made by Albert-Gustave Piguet, who would ultimately become well known in the watch industry for his work on the Lemania 2310 caliber. But the watch that Legare credits with shaping the Chapter 1 is a pocket watch he created while a student at the Vallee de Joux School of Watchmaking in 1932, when he was just 17 years old. That watch featured two large split bi-metallic balance wheels, whose rates were averaged by a differential. According to Legare, only six total examples of this pocket watch were completed.  Legare’s conceit in making the Chapter 1 is essentially an answer to the hypothetical question of what if Piguet’s idea behind this movement had continued to evolve? This is an entirely original movement architecture (and diff...

First Look - The new Czapek Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue Monochrome
Czapek Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue Aug 20, 2026

First Look - The new Czapek Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue

Independent watchmaking brand Czapek introduced the Promenade collection in 2024 as a more classic and elegant vision of its contemporary watchmaking. Since then, the model has been used for several creative dial executions, such as the Plissé, Diamond Drops, and Goutte de Rosée editions, as well as the Promenade Transparencies Viridian Green, made in collaboration […]

Into the Blue: Czapek’s Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue  SJX Watches
Czapek s Promenade Transparencies Aqua Aug 20, 2026

Into the Blue: Czapek’s Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue 

In the lead up to Geneva Watch Days, Czapek has unveiled the Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue — a gradient blue variant of a sapphire-dialled dress watch the brand released in late 2024. The watch breaks little new ground but the blue-on-blue look reveals a keen eye and an awareness of colour theory. Initial thoughts I have mixed feelings about sapphire dials, but I liked Czapek’s approach to opening up the Promenade when the brand launched its “Viridian Green” collaboration with Fratello in 2024. The “Aqua Blue” edition gets many of the same things right, with a dark-enough tint that the exposed movement elements don’t overwhelm the design. In fact, at some angles, the exposed movement looks more like a graphic element, akin to the Octo Finissimo Automatic BVL 138 Sketch. On the wrist, when the movement is not back-lit, the dial appears much darker, and the movement components are even less obvious. This split personality extends to the overall format of the Promenade, which is conveniently sized at 38 mm and is about 11 mm thick. The latter dimension is a bit chunky for an automatic dress watch with a micro-rotor movement, but it gives the watch a robust, almost sporty feel. And the extra thickness likely contributes to the reassuring 50 m test depth. An optional milanese-style steel bracelet completes the transformation from dressy to sporty, should one wish to do it all with one watch. A close look reveals thousands of printed dots that are responsible...

First Look - Cleaner and More Compact, The new Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Monochrome
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Glashütte Original Aug 20, 2026

First Look - Cleaner and More Compact, The new Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph

Glashütte Original has a long history with chronographs, going back more than 80 years to the development of wristwatches for short-time measurement in the Saxon watchmaking town. Among the important chapters in that history was the UROFA calibre 59, developed in the early 1940s as one of the first modern Glashütte wristwatch chronographs. The contemporary […]

Introducing: The Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph And Senator Chronograph Navigator Hodinkee
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Aug 20, 2026

Introducing: The Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph And Senator Chronograph Navigator

What We Know Today, Glashütte Original introduces two new flyback chronographs, replacing the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date models currently in the collection. While both models fall under the brand's Senator line, the new Senator Chronograph and Senator Chronograph Navigator could not be more opposed in aesthetics and spirit. First is the new Senator Chronograph Navigator, which departs significantly from the Senator line's overarching classical design language. With only a few exceptions, you're most likely expecting to see at least a few Roman numerals on any Senator dial. But the Navigator takes the chronograph down a much more utilitarian route, with what I believe is the brand's only conventional tool-watch design outside the SeaQ dive watch lineup. The matte black dial features three-dimensional, solid, luminescent applied Arabic hour numerals, while the rest of the dial text is printed in white to provide sharp contrast and improve legibility. The large subdials for the running seconds and elapsed minutes are snailed in texture, while a recessed faceting frames the oversized Panorama Date at six o'clock. The sword hands here are filled with a generous proportion of Super-LumiNova, and the remaining hands are all finished in white lacquer. The Senator Chronograph, sans Navigator, streamlines the layout of the outgoing Senator Chronograph Panorama Date for a more conventional look while still feeling familiar. A galvanic silver dial in soft white holds solid-gol...

A Nice Vintage-Inspired Surprise: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Aug 20, 2026

A Nice Vintage-Inspired Surprise: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary

Over the past few years, we have seen great changes within the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms lineup. The brand celebrated the 70th anniversary of its iconic diver in multiple “acts.” On top of that, Blancpain created a full collection of Fifty Fathoms models in different sizes, offering something for everyone and addressing an issue many enthusiasts […] Visit A Nice Vintage-Inspired Surprise: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary to read the full article.

First Look - Blancpain Goes Vintage with the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Monochrome
Blancpain Goes Vintage Aug 20, 2026

First Look - Blancpain Goes Vintage with the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary

While the fact that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was one of the earliest dive watches on the market is now well-known, this professional, mostly military-issued model wasn’t the only one produced by the brand. There is another watch in the collection that was created back in 1956, as the civilian counterpart to the Fifty Fathoms […]

A Heavenly “Match” - The Olympique De Marseille × Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB200 Chronometer Limited Edition Fratello
Aug 20, 2026

A Heavenly “Match” - The Olympique De Marseille × Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB200 Chronometer Limited Edition

“Droit au But,” translated roughly as “Straight to the Goal,” has been Olympique de Marseille’s motto since the club’s foundation in 1899 and appears beneath the “OM” crest. OM is one of the most recognizable clubs in French football. Its greatest achievement came on May 26th, 1993, when OM defeated AC Milan 1–0 in Munich […] Visit A Heavenly “Match” — The Olympique De Marseille × Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB200 Chronometer Limited Edition to read the full article.

Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30 Monochrome
Minerva Aug 19, 2026

Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30

Minerva‘s Unveiled Chronograph series is an exercise in turning conventional watchmaking inside out. Instead of hiding the movement under the dial, which would require taking the watch off the wrist to admire its calibre through the display caseback, the manufacture reverses its architecture, making the chronograph mechanism and its distinctive hand-finished components the main attraction […]

Inside The Manufacture: Why Fam al Hut Is Pursuing Manufacture Status Hodinkee
Aug 19, 2026

Inside The Manufacture: Why Fam al Hut Is Pursuing Manufacture Status

This story is a special presentation from Hodinkee Japan, written and illustrated by Masaharu Wada, the Deputy Editor-in-Chief for Hodinkee Japan.  For a young brand to revisit roughly 98 percent of the movement components in a GPHG-winning watch after receiving the award might ordinarily sound like cause for concern. But when I visited Fam al Hut's workshop in Taicang, Jiangsu Province, China, I came away feeling almost the opposite. More than anything else, that fact seemed to capture exactly where the brand stands today. A large industrial elevator takes you to the second floor, where the doors open onto a long central corridor. To the right, behind glass walls, designers and engineers gather around technical drawings. To the left is a production floor lined with five CNC machines and other machine tools. Farther inside are a prototyping room, a finishing department, a clean room for movement assembly, a quality-control room, a stockroom, and even a dedicated room housing a femtosecond laser machine. Not everything is made here. Cases and sapphire crystals, among other components, still come from outside suppliers. What Fam al Hut has built, however, is an environment in which it can control the design, prototyping, machining, assembly, testing, and continued development of its movements. For such a young independent brand, the scale of the operation was far beyond what I had expected. Fam al Hut was founded in 2024. The following year, its debut watch, the MARK 1 Möb...

Introducing - The New Norqain Independence Skeleton Titanium DLC Monochrome
Norqain Independence Skeleton Titanium DLC Aug 19, 2026

Introducing - The New Norqain Independence Skeleton Titanium DLC

Since the debut of the Independence Skeleton in 2022, followed by the fifth-anniversary Skeleton editions in 2023 and the more compact 40mm model introduced last year, Norqain has established its approach to skeletonisation. Without chasing the extremes, the brand offers a combination of a contemporary openworked design and the robust, adventure-ready character that defines the […]

The Charming Kiwame Tokyo Yane Is Like Putting A Japanese Temple Roof On Your Wrist Fratello
Ming Kiwame Tokyo Yane Aug 19, 2026

The Charming Kiwame Tokyo Yane Is Like Putting A Japanese Temple Roof On Your Wrist

Ten years ago, my wife and I went to Japan for vacation. We strolled through Tokyo, visited the beaches of Okinawa, and toured the temples of Kyoto. Some of the things I photographed most on that trip must’ve been the countless temple roofs. They’re so characteristic and graceful with their sloping shapes and carefully placed […] Visit The Charming Kiwame Tokyo Yane Is Like Putting A Japanese Temple Roof On Your Wrist to read the full article.

Introducing - Henri Grandjean & Cie Unveils the Magician Atrivm Green Sapphire and Atrivm Red Sapphire Monochrome
Aug 19, 2026

Introducing - Henri Grandjean & Cie Unveils the Magician Atrivm Green Sapphire and Atrivm Red Sapphire

Henri Grandjean (1803-1879) was a master watchmaker from Le Locle, renowned for his precision marine chronometers and for his pioneering role in Swiss chronometry. The name was recently revived by entrepreneur and collector Sohail Aziz and positioned as an independent brand specialising in exquisite high-end contemporary haute horlogerie. Making an impressive debut, Henri Grandjean & […]

Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References Behind Every Great Watch Fratello
Ming up Aug 19, 2026

Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References Behind Every Great Watch

Drumming up a list of the watch world’s biggest icons is easy. While we can debate what constitutes a true icon, we can probably agree that such watches defined a category and had a lasting impact on the current watch landscape. That’s not the discussion we want to have, though. In this new series of […] Visit Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References Behind Every Great Watch to read the full article.

Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A Ushio Aug 18, 2026

Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver

We go hands-on with the new Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, and see why this is the watch Grand Seiko fans and watch enthusiasts have been wanting! What We Love The new case size and dimensions That dial, I mean, seriously?! The new bracelet and clasp design What We Don’t The lack of a date window The full titanium construction may not be to everyone’s liking The anti-magnetism could be increased to accommodate modern life Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value For Money: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year, Grand Seiko upped the ante and took the fight to the swath of other luxury dive watches on the market with the release of its new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, which was released at Watches & Wonders 2026. It was the dive watch Grand Seiko enthusiasts had been wanting and waiting for. A smaller, more wearable diver that was a little more contemporary than the models it replaced. With a raft of changes, including a smaller, better-proportioned case, a redesigned bracelet, new micro-adjustment and a more modern dial aesthetic, the new Ushio 300 Diver ticked so many boxes. Plus, Grand Seiko decided that steel was too heavy for a sports watch, so they made it from High-Intensity Titanium instead. The 2026 Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver models We had the privilege of previewing it before Watches & Wonders, and while the article I wrote up for the Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A 300 Ushio Diver was a ...

A Look at the New Certina DS-1 Chronograph Automatics: Models C029.462.16.011.00 and C029.462.26.051.00 WatchRider
Certina DS-1 Chronograph Automatics Models Aug 18, 2026

A Look at the New Certina DS-1 Chronograph Automatics: Models C029.462.16.011.00 and C029.462.26.051.00

Over the years, I have added a few Certina watches to my collection. I enjoy wearing them because the brand consistently delivers timepieces that are well-made and nice to look at. Certina has a reputation for building solid, reliable watches, and my personal experience with them has confirmed this. Recently, they introduced two new models to their DS-1 Chronograph Automatic lineup: reference C029.462.16.011.00 and reference C029.462.26.051.00. I took some time to look closely at these releases to see what they offer. Both of these new chronographs share the same core foundation. They are housed in a 42-millimeter case made from 316L stainless steel. This size gives the watch a substantial presence on the wrist without being overly bulky. Inside both watches beats the Valjoux A05.231 automatic movement. This is a movement that features a silicon hairspring, which helps protect the watch from magnetic fields. It also provides a generous 68-hour power reserve. This means you can take the watch off on a Friday evening, and it will still be running on Monday morning. As part of Certina’s Double Security concept, both models are water-resistant up to 100 meters and feature a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Model C029.462.16.011.00: Clean and Classic Style The first model is the more traditional of the two. It features a crisp white dial set inside a polished silver-tone case. The dial layout is very clean, displaying the time, the date, and the chronograph sub-dials in a ...

Introducing - Tutima Expands its Fleet with the Compact Flieger T5 in Titanium Monochrome
Tutima Aug 18, 2026

Introducing - Tutima Expands its Fleet with the Compact Flieger T5 in Titanium

Tutima, based in Glashütte, earned its wings in the 1940s with its military and pilot’s watches and, in 1941, produced Germany’s first two-pusher flyback chronograph (later referred to as the Flieger). In 2019, Tutima released a contemporary, less tool-oriented, time-and-date take on the Flieger. The latest model to join the squadron is the Flieger T5, […]

Jacques Bianchi Introduces their First Watch in Partnership with the Olympique de Marseille Football Club Worn & Wound
Timex x Nigel Cabourn “Referee Aug 18, 2026

Jacques Bianchi Introduces their First Watch in Partnership with the Olympique de Marseille Football Club

Jacques Bianchi, the Marseille based brand specializing in dive watches, has released the first watch in what is expected to be an ongoing partnership with Olympique de Marseille, the city’s historic football club. This has been a big summer for soccer, of course, with the World Cup being held in North America right in the middle of summer, and if your individual case of football fever hasn’t exactly been cured yet, the new diver based on the brand’s popular JB200 platform might be of interest. And even if it’s not, it’s an interesting diversion from Jacques Bianchi that might point to some broader ambition from the brand as it relates to artistic craft, and chronometry.  First, let me say that while I have no particular allegiance to Olympique de Marseille, I have a soft spot for soccer watches. The first watch I bought after writing about it for Worn & Wound was a Timex x Nigel Cabourn “Referee Watch,” which sits on my desk to this day, ticking away. Soccer of course has a unique approach to timing among the major team sports in that a clock counts up to the end of a 45 minute half, with the referee having a great deal of latitude to add time to the clock at his or discretion that takes into account the normal stoppages of play. This principle is further complicated by the fact that the referee solely holds this information – the clock counting up that players and spectators see in the stadium or on television is essentially always just an estimate. The ...

Just Because - Berneron Quietly Reveals its next Chapter, The Mirage Miroir Monochrome
Berneron Aug 18, 2026

Just Because - Berneron Quietly Reveals its next Chapter, The Mirage Miroir

Since founding his independent brand in 2022, Sylvain Berneron has built a reputation around a distinctive approach to form, mechanics and scarcity. His experience on the creative side of major organisations clearly shaped his understanding of both product design and the power of restraint. His first watch, the Mirage, established that philosophy immediately. Introduced in […]