Hodinkee
Happenings: Rémi Maillat To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The founder of Krayon will discuss the mathematical and mechanical aspects of the brand's universal sunrise-sunset complication.
Results for Equation of Time
34,230 articles · 143 videos found · page 170 of 1146
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Kollokium is Back with “Variant d” of the Projekt 01
The still somewhat mysterious Kollokium project is back with its latest release, a new variant in their first series, dubbed Projekt 01. The Kollokium drops this year have reminded us, for better or worse, of the limited edition releases that dominated the pandemic era of watch collecting. In other words, watches timed to a worldwide release window, which starts a frenzy and inevitably ends up in many being disappointed when they miss out on snagging one. It seemed like these happened a few times a month in 2020 and 2021, but this cycle has slowed down significantly as the watch industry has normalized a bit over the last few years. I think it’s too Kollokium’s credit, then, that they’re still able to gin up a level of excitement for their watches that is capable of leaving people in a state where they inevitably lash out via keyboard. It’s also worth noting that these watches are still genuinely scarce enough that when they pop up on auction sites or the pre-owned market, they tend to command a hefty premium. All of this, of course, is secondary to the merits of the Projekt 01 as a watch, and I still believe that Kollokium is doing something that is pretty genuinely interesting at a price point (at retail) that feels approachable. The brand, you’ll remember, was founded by watch industry veterans Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, who collectively represent the business, design, and collecting sides of the community, with overlap across all three fo...
Worn & Wound
A New Marathon Diver, A Value Packed Tissot, Upgraded Kit, And A Tough Deal Of The Week
The post A New Marathon Diver, A Value Packed Tissot, Upgraded Kit, And A Tough Deal Of The Week appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – The Very Best Of The Tissot PRX Collection
When launched just a couple of short years ago, the Tissot PRX pretty much became an overnight sensation. Its sleek design, robust mechanical movement and above all its very modest sticker price skyrocketed the PRX to become one of the best-selling watches not only for Tissot but in the whole industry for years. Pretty much […]
Quill & Pad
The Retrograde: One of My Favorite Complications
The retrograde indication is one of Joshua Munchow's favorite “Because We Can” (BWC) complications. Gears are an amazing invention and have allowed watchmakers to make incredible creations. Simple gear systems leave a multitude of openings for creativity. Look at some great retrogrades here.
Hodinkee
Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Atlanta, Tucson, And Toronto
These next rounds of classes will be hosted by the Atlanta Watch Society, Ben Bridge Jeweler, and IWC.
Monochrome
First Look – The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon x SORAI
When the Big Bang exploded on the watch scene in 2005, it was the paragon of an oversized, high-octane, octagonal sports watch flaunting an unusual fusion of materials. A decade later, the Spirit of Big Bang joined the lineup of Hublot. Embracing a similar concept, the Spirit proposed a more complex case with a tonneau-shaped, […]
Quill & Pad
Light Me Up: The Insanely Colorful Lume of Black Badger James Thompson’s Watches (Lume Fest!)
Working with creative makers like De Bethune, MB&F;, Stepan Sarpaneva, Bamford, Linde Werdelin and more, Gothenburg-based James Thompson – aka Black Badger – has become industry famous as the driving force of a new school of applications of luminous materials. Anders Modig takes us through Black Badger's history, along the way highlighting many of his colorful watch collaborations.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The d.m.h. Three-Hander in Bronze is Perhaps the Purest Form of Artisanal Watchmaking
Nestled on the river banks of the Dutch IJssel River, close to the town of Ouderkerk aan den IJssel, watches are being made. Mechanical watches that is, by the hands of Fred Dingemans. With a background in fine mechanical engineering, he was already very familiar with lathes, tools and machines before starting to make watches. […]
Fratello
The New Genus GNS2 Is The Perfect Example Of The Evolution Of Watch Species
Do you want to dazzle or be functional? If the first is your goal, creating a unique-looking, complicated watch with equally unique features is the way to go. If you opt for the second, it’s all about sober functionality. When Genus released its first creation in 2019, the GNS1, the small independent brand wanted to […] Visit The New Genus GNS2 Is The Perfect Example Of The Evolution Of Watch Species to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Colorful Charm Of The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour
Fears Watches is one of the small-brand success stories of this decade. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill revived his family’s brand with the Redcliff in 2016. Since 2020, the brand seems to have gone from strength to strength, and the new Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour shows this. This year the brand opened a boutique in its hometown […] Visit Introducing: The Colorful Charm Of The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 – Now In Titanium
The Spirit Zulu Time collection gets an easy-wearing addition.
Monochrome
First Look – The Extraterrestrial Meteorite Dial of the De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite
Many of De Bethune’s watches reveal master watchmaker Denis Flageollet’s passion for outer space. Who could forget his interplanetary delta-shaped spaceship known as the Dream Watch 5 or his heat-blued titanium models that evoke the mystery of our cosmos? Flageollet is also drawn to extraterrestrial materials like iron meteorites, particularly fragments of the famous Muonionalusta […]
Monochrome
Introducing – Ikepod Goes Street Art-Style with the Megapod “This Is Our Time”
Back in the 1990s, if you were an architect or an artist and wanted to stand apart from the crowd, your go-to watch had to be an Ikepod. Founded in 1994, bold and unique, the result of the work of designer Mark Newson, Ikepod watches were among the coolest pieces you could get. After some […]
Fratello
The Olympian IWC Watch Designer Who Fought Nazis In The Skies Of Switzerland
This feature was researched with the help of Nic Barnes, who is a pilot, watch enthusiast, and occasional contributor for Watches of Espionage. Our thanks to the Schaffhausen City Archive and Schaffhauser Magazine for providing materials that greatly contributed to our research for this story. It is one about a remarkable man with connections to […] Visit The Olympian IWC Watch Designer Who Fought Nazis In The Skies Of Switzerland to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: ROO F1s, High Octane Fairy Tales of Super Star Racing Drivers
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore limited editions dedicated to the world of Formula 1 are one of the most interesting chapters in the history of the Offshore collection, which turns 30 this year. The release of such Offshores did not last long, from 2004 to 2012. Many of us were there, but for many everything was somehow forgotten and it is worth refreshing memories.
Time+Tide
DOXA’s Sea Emerald embraces green dials for the first time ever
Doxa’s first-ever green dial is now a standard option among its main divers.The post DOXA’s Sea Emerald embraces green dials for the first time ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph
Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...
Worn & Wound
Minase and Fratello Collaborate for the Third Time with the New M-3 “Shiro”
Minase, the independent Japanese watch brand, and our friends at watch media outlet Fratello have collaborated on a third edition of the brand’s cult favorite M-3. After versions in purple and green each of the last two years, this latest release strikes a more classic and refined tone. The new M-3 “Shiro” features a white lacquered dial and some subtle but well chosen accent colors, all with an eye toward traditional Japanese craft. “Shiro” is Japanese for white, and in Japan is historically a sacred color symbolizing spiritual and physical purity. It’s a color that is frequently worn by Japanese Emperors, and comes up frequently in Shinto rituals and traditions. For this M-3, Minase has given the dial a weave-like texture that recalls the garments that might be worn in such rituals. The dial has been coated with Japanese lacquer, and the brand promises the result is a dynamic silvery color with plenty of depth. Other callouts to Japanese culture include the red tipped second hand, a color that symbolizes good luck. The precise shade of red chosen for this edition, “Hinomaru,” translates roughly to “circle of the sun.” And the blue strap, according to Minase and Fratello, is a tribute to Japanese denim. Fratello and Minase see parallels in high craft denim to traditional watchmaking, noting that good denim, when taken care of, is meant to last a lifetime, just like a mechanical watch. The original impetus for the Fratello x Minase collaborations ...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: The Watches, Cars, And Old World Charm Of Goodwood Revival 2024
Automotive photographer Michael Shaffer turns his lens toward the watches of a costume-heavy car show.
Worn & Wound
Shaping the Future of Watch Events: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024
When we created the Windup Watch Fair nearly ten years ago, we did it for a simple purpose: to make the watch fair that we actually wanted to go to. We wanted a fair with the brands we were into and a comfortable environment-a fair that spoke to our values as a company and as watch enthusiasts. Inclusive, inviting, laid back, free, and, most importantly, fun. Naturally, we underestimated how big of a lift it would be to pull off, but we persisted, succeeded, and never looked back. The Windup Watch Fair, now held annually in San Francisco, Chicago, and New York City, has become the pre-eminent watch fair for enthusiasts. It is a fair where brands large and small, indie and group, accessible and luxury, come together to speak directly with you, the watch enthusiasts. New brands break ground, new products launch, and new friends are made. There’s genuinely nothing else like it. The original 2015 Windup Watch Fair Today, we’re excited to announce this year’s Windup Watch Fair New York City, which will set a new standard like our first fair ten years ago. With over 120 brands in attendance and 16 countries represented, Windup NYC, our flagship event, is now a watch fair on an international scale. From October 18th to the 20th, the center of the watch world will be in New York City, and you and all of your friends are invited to come. We look forward to seeing you there. This year, the event will be taking place at: Center415 on 5th Avenue between 37th and 38th Streets (...
Worn & Wound
Baltic Celebrates the Opening of their NYC Showroom with Limited Edition Prismic Stone Dials
New today from Baltic, a trio of limited edition versions of their Prismic “cocktail watch,” each with a colorful stone dial. The watches have been announced to celebrate Baltic’s new showrooms, one exotic dial for each. The Paris showroom is tied to the lapis lazuli dial, London to red agate, and New York gets green jade (as seen in the included photos). Stone dials are clearly having a moment, with approachable and affordable stone dial editions being released by many of our favorite brands over the course of the last year or so. Once considered extremely niche (and to be fair, it’s probably still pretty niche) stone dials are now seen as a way to have something genuinely unique on the wrist, as no two dials will be exactly the same. They’re also a natural fit for the Prismic collection, which is already set apart as something a little off the beaten track from Baltic’s heritage inspired sports watches. As is the case with most stone dials, the texture and color of each stone takes center stage with these pieces. Each watch features simple applied hour markers and brushed dauphine hands, with Baltic’s wordmark near the 12:00 position and a small seconds register at 6:00. The case is the same five part design seen on the initial Prismic releases. It measures 36mm in diameter and is composed of both stainless steel (the bezel, lugs, and caseback) and titanium (the midcase, which has a contrasting “grain” finish). The original concept of the Prismic, a t...
Worn & Wound
Habring² Pilot Watches: A Tale of Two Fun (and Rare) Complications
My journey with Habring² started back in 2009 when my girlfriend (now wife) and I decided to spend a cozy weekend in Vienna. At the time, I was living and working in Prague, thus it was an easy drive to Vienna. On a chilly November morning, after a delightful breakfast, we wandered through the city. That’s when I noticed these enormous banners showcasing various watch brands for an event called Vienna Time. Among them was a banner for Habring². I had been a fan of the brand but had never seen any of their watches in person. So, I jumped at the chance to visit and meet the brand’s founders, Richard and Maria Habring. Fast forward to today, after knowing the Habrings for so many years, I can honestly say they are some of the most down-to-earth and caring people you’ll ever meet. And it shows in their watchmaking too. I like to call it “honest watchmaking.” Their watches are reasonably priced, especially considering the various complications they offer. Even the packaging is charmingly unpretentious-a compact wooden box that simply says, “made with love.” In this box, the Habrings also include spare parts necessary for the first service with our preferred local watchmaker-a practical consideration. The Habrings do not like to discuss Richard’s past accomplishments at various big brands like IWC and Lange. However, they are well documented online. As a primer, I would recommend reading this Hodinkee article by Jason Heaton, and this WatchProZine write-up ...
Fratello
Move Over, Seiko - Is Citizen The New King Of Affordable Japanese Watches?
Seiko has long been the default choice for affordable and bulletproof mechanical timekeepers. But is Citizen now starting to take over that role? There’s plenty of evidence to suggest that it is, so let’s examine this topic today. My first article for Fratello asked: “Is the Seiko magic slipping away?” You see, like so many […] Visit Move Over, Seiko - Is Citizen The New King Of Affordable Japanese Watches? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Three Geneva Watch Days Takeaways From a First Time Attendee
For watch collectors, enthusiasts, and industry veterans, it’s kind of hard to believe that Baselworld hasn’t existed in a meaningful way since 2019. Covid (and a rapidly changing industry) killed the industry’s biggest trade show in 2020, and as soon the show was on life support, many began prognosticating about the future of large scale industry events. Over the course of the last five or so years, the watch world has settled into a groove, with Watches & Wonders (formerly the far more exclusive SIHH) largely replacing Baselworld as the big spring must-attend watch event, with an ever growing roster of brands exhibiting at the show, and even more taking meetings in unofficial capacities adjacent to it. Baselworld being effectively replaced by another show was probably somewhat predictable, but a turn of events that fewer saw coming was the rise of Geneva Watch Days as a major end-of-summer tentpole event for the watch community. Originally conceived in 2020 as a way for a small handful of brands (Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F;) to bring watch collectors together in a pandemic ravaged year, the event has grown to over 50 official participants and many more exhibiting on the fringes, taking advantage of the influx of collectors and watch industry types on the city of Geneva while the event is up and running. If you talk to people who have attended Geneva Watch Days since it began, you’ll hear a lot of chatter about t...
Time+Tide
Time for the science – a guide to lab-grown diamonds
Why are lab-grown diamonds such a hot topic in watches right now, and why should you care about them? Let us explain.The post Time for the science – a guide to lab-grown diamonds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
News – Rolex To Publish The First Authorized History of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Watch
Retracing the history of iconic watches has long been a fascinating yet difficult task. Things are even more complex regarding Rolex, a rather discreet company that has hardly ever communicated its history and the origins and evolution of its emblematic models. Retracing the history of a Rolex collection was until now a task for historians […]
Fratello
For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models
Do you want to hunt with the hounds and run with the hare? In that case, Seiko has got you covered. What? Is that too cryptic for you? If you want an ultra-precise quartz watch that connects to GPS satellites circling the globe and takes its energy from light but looks like a traditional, mechanical […] Visit For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 101 Secrets hides the time behind over 1000 diamonds
The 101 Secrets is a diamond bracelet that just happens to be a watch.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 101 Secrets hides the time behind over 1000 diamonds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
5 Reasons Why Geneva Watch Days is the Show of the Future and a few Stand Out Watches
Open to the general public for 5 days, Geneva Watch Days welcomed 13,800 visitors, an increase of more than 70% over last year. Carol Besler is a new fan of the summer fair.