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Farer Updates the Three Hand Collection with New Deeply Textured Dials Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Sep 15, 2025

Farer Updates the Three Hand Collection with New Deeply Textured Dials

The age of the textured dial is upon us, and there’s no escaping it. No longer are we limited to Grand Seiko and similar legacy brands to bring us the third dimension on our wrists, with microbrands pitching in their own-often more innovative-takes on texture. Farer has joined the fray with their new Three Hand Series III collection showcasing three new models, each with a unique approach to the intersection of texture and color.  The Three Hand collection was one of Farer’s first, and remains one of the British brand’s most emblematic. Previous iterations of the collection showcased varied numeral and index styles, and of course a huge variety of color, but with the III collection, Farer has opted for a smaller initial release of three watches. To achieve the texture, the dials are stamped with a custom press and then spray-painted, with multiple colored layers added for gradient effects. A clear lacquer layer comes next, with high gloss polishing to seal in the texture.  Before we dive into the different dials, let’s take a look at the functional aspects of the Three Hand collection. With a minimalistic design and large crown at 3 o’clock, the 316L stainless steel case appears simple, but boasts some nifty construction considerations, namely a new monobloc mid-case. Sizing is on the smaller side, with a 39mm diameter and 45mm lug-to-lug span, which suits the eye-catching dial designs well. A screw-down crown ensures 100 meters of water resistance, and a b...

First Look – The new Black DLC Titanium Edition of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sep 15, 2025

First Look – The new Black DLC Titanium Edition of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

The Octo Finissimo collection by Bulgari doesn’t need an introduction anymore. One of the few emblematic lineups to have surfaced over the last decade, the OF has become the king of ultra-thin watchmaking, beating one record of thinness after another. But Bulgari’s slim-fit watch is more than just its slender profile and complex movements. It […]

Introducing – The new Credor Goldfeather GBBY969 and GBBY971 with Enamel Dials Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sep 15, 2025

Introducing – The new Credor Goldfeather GBBY969 and GBBY971 with Enamel Dials

While Grand Seiko is now well-established all around the world as the higher-end brand of the Seiko Watch Corporation, Credor remains far more niche and has just begun its global expansion, primarily with the Locomotive collection, based on a vintage watch once designed by Gérald Genta. Credor, another high-end brandwithin the group, employs a more classic approach with watches […]

Seiko SNE573 Review: The Discontinued Prospex 38.5mm Solar Diver Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Sep 13, 2025

Seiko SNE573 Review: The Discontinued Prospex 38.5mm Solar Diver

Seiko divers might very well be some of the most sought-after in the enthusiast community. I say “enthusiast” because they aren’t always the entry point into Seiko, or into watches, for that matter, for the everyday consumer. I would think something like an entry-level Presage or any watch fit for the office is more desired in that regard. But, we don’t call them desk divers for nothing, and I personally have worn and still wear Seiko divers to work, but that’s neither here nor there. In fact, the same can be said of the subject watch for today’s review: The Seiko SNE573 as well as other variants of the 38.5mm Prospex Solar Divers like the SNE583 and SNE585, which were discontinued this past Summer. Its discontinuation adds it to a hallowed list of watches that have received similar treatment by Seiko, namely the vaunted SKX series, which has achieved iconic status rivaled by a small few watches in history. But we can also add a bevvy of Willard-esque Prospex models to the list including the SPB 153 green Willard – a personal favorite. When a Seiko dive watch goes the way of the trees, it achieves a kind of immortality and heightened demand that takes a once value-packed product into a new pricing universe, but less talk about price and more talk about a handsome piece of solar diving kit that is no longer commercially available in an official capacity at retail. Seiko SNE573 Brief History I use the word “brief” because, well, this watch had quite a short...

Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Scales Down Sep 13, 2025

Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Audemars Piguet (AP) shrinks its innovative new perpetual calendar movement, reflecting the industry-wide shift towards more compact sizing. The scaled-down model arrives in two models to start: the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm ref. 26684 loses the controversial week-of-the-year indicator, while the Code 11:59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm ref. 26441 retains the pointer. Notably, the marketing for the new 38 mm models implies a more feminine target audience, but the appeal of a mid-sized Royal Oak perpetual transcends gender. Initial Thoughts The march towards smaller sizes continues. Regardless of the client’s gender, it helps that Audemars Piguet has a real winner here, with a user-friendly movement that is also extremely technically interesting, contained inside the iconic and very well built Royal Oak case. Pricing is relatively reasonable as well – US$110,000 in stainless steel hardly screams “good deal” but is fair against the wider market. The absence of a 52-week scale on the Royal Oak 38 mm models is necessitated by the narrower dial and differentiates the 38 mm from the 41 mm. Many will welcome this change given the niche nature of a week indicator, though the result is arguably less distinct from the many other sub-dial-centric perpetual calendars on the market. Also, a matching 38 mm and 41 mm pair in the same colourway would be cute, and a missed opportunity. Compact Case At 38 mm, this is the smallest Royal Oak perpetual calen...

Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 12, 2025

Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing

Many factors go into the purchase of a new watch -  from pricing to colorway to the choice of movement and materials - but perhaps none are more make-or-break for most consumers than sizing. Watches, of course, being three-dimensional objects, there are multiple areas of measurement to consider, though most watch brands tend to narrow it down to the two most basic: the diameter (or in the case of non-round watches, the dimensions) of the main case and the case’s overall thickness, i.e. how high it will rise on the wrist. However, neither of these accounts fully for how large or small the watch will wear on the wrist. For that, you will need the lug-to-lug measurement, sometimes referred to more simply as the “length,” with the diameter deemed in shorthand as the “width.” The lugs, sometimes called “horns,” are the protruding parts of the case that connect it to the bracelet or strap. The distance from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom lugs is perhaps the most important factor that affects not only how large the watch “wears” on the wrist but also how comfortable it is. (This measurement should not be confused with another occasionally listed stat, the “lug width.” The latter, which is perhaps most useful for those looking to swap out other straps or bracelets on their watch, refers to the distance between the lugs on each side of the case, i.e., the span in which the strap or bracelet fits inside them. If a watch has a lug width of...

echo/neutra Introduces the Averau42 Collection, New Watches with a Hybrid Ceramic-Titanium Case Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2025

echo/neutra Introduces the Averau42 Collection, New Watches with a Hybrid Ceramic-Titanium Case

One of the real highlights of being involved in our Windup events year to year is getting to know brand owners and founders, and periodically getting a little peek at what’s to come. More and more often, brands come to our events not just with watches in their current catalog, but with early samples of watches they’re planning for the future to show prospective customers, members of the media, and the Worn & Wound team. I won’t lie: it’s a nice perk of being on the inside. A few months ago during the Chicago show, the team at echo/neutra pulled some really exciting stuff out of a bag that was not quite ready for prying eyes. The new Averau42 collection, which at launch consists of a pair of watches combining titanium and ceramic construction, is an exciting next step for a brand that we’ve been interested in for some time.  The heart of these watches is what echo/neutra calls the TiFrame construction. This is an idea we’ve seen a handful of times from other brands, usually bigger brands, in the recent past. These watches are made with an internal titanium case, or frame, that protects the movement and offers tensile strength that ceramic and other alternative materials lack. The outer layer is black ceramic, which provides a virtually scratch proof surface and a moody aesthetic vibe for these watches that fits in nicely with the design codes the brand has established over the past several years. This type of construction, in addition to making the most of the ...

Which Wrist Do Ladies Wear Watches On? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 11, 2025

Which Wrist Do Ladies Wear Watches On?

I don’t think it's any secret that, statistically speaking, our audience leans more towards men. But if you couldn’t already tell by a quick glance at my author photo, I am, in fact, a girl. Thus, today’s article is in part inspired by a desire to add a bit more of a feminine touch to the content we typically do, and in part to answer to a growing number of questions (such as "which wrist do ladies wear watches on?") the team and I have been getting relating to first steps towards starting a watch collection from the girls out there – either asked by the ladies themselves, or from partners and family members trying to induct their loved ones into the cult of watches.  Below, I’ll break down some common questions aimed at those just dipping their toes into the watch-collecting hobby, and share some personal musings and philosophies I approach when building a collection, as a young(ish), scrappy girl in the industry myself. I’ve also had some of the lovely ladies from the Teddy team share wristshots from their own collection for added color, flavor, and fun!  So, where do I start? Beginnings are exciting, but they can also come with some unexpected terror as you come face-to-face with the unknown. As with any new hobby or learning something new, the initial confrontation with all the information is bound to be somewhat (or very) overwhelming. Personally, when I first began dipping my toes into watches, I experienced something akin to vertigo, teetering on the e...

DOXA Expands the SUB 750T Collection Worn & Wound
Doxa Expands Sep 11, 2025

DOXA Expands the SUB 750T Collection

Last week, DOXA unveiled an update to one of their most popular references – the SUB 750T. First introduced in 2002, the 750T was conceived as a diver’s companion with oversized proportions, professional-level depth rating, and (due to its large size) a real presence on the wrist. Nearly two decades later, the newest iteration of the SUB 750T arrives with a familiar profile, but maybe a bit more pared down – and upgraded – than its predecessor. Like I said, this is a big watch. Clocking in at 45mm across and 47mm lug-to-lug, this isn’t a watch that’s going to be demurely tucked under your shirt sleeve. Even so, DOXA has counterbalanced the size by reducing the model to just under 12mm in height. In contrast, the original reference clocked in at 14mm; and while you may not think that the 2mm differential would be noticeable–trust us, it is. That reduction takes away some of the added bulk that makes such a large watch just feel overwhelming and makes the DOXA SUB 750T that much more wearable.  It’s not just the case size which has been improved, DOXA added eight colorways (Professional Orange, Sharkhunter Black, Whitepearl White, Searambler Silver Grey, Caribbean Navy Blue, Divingstar Yellow, Aquamarine Turquoise, and the new Sea Emerald Dark Green) to this particular model. Each is available on either a rubber strap color-matched to the dial or the brand’s classic beads of rice bracelet, making for 16 total options to choose from.  On the technical side...

Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Sep 11, 2025

Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? (Hands-On)

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre Calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once felt far beyond the brand’s reach. And at Watches & Wonders Geneva this year, Raymond Weil unveiled perhaps its most...

Ressence and The Armoury Team Up for the TYPE 9 Scattering Sun (Live Pics) Worn & Wound
Ressence Sep 10, 2025

Ressence and The Armoury Team Up for the TYPE 9 Scattering Sun (Live Pics)

There’s something exciting about seeing two brands you admire collaborate, especially when those brands represent relatively different aesthetics, if shared sensibilities. So, when we heard that Ressence, the independent watch brand known for its unique ROCS dial displays and futuristic aesthetic, was teaming up with The Armoury, a traditional menswear retailer and tailor, our collective interest was piqued. And the result is, well, oddly exactly what one might expect: a more formal take on Ressence’s most wearable watch to date, the TYPE 9. Called the TYPE 9 Shattering Sun, it meets the two brands in the middle. The TYPE 9, which came out at the end of last year, is the smallest Ressence in diameter, and very thin at 39mm x 42.5mm x 11mm. Additionally, it’s one of the lightest at 39 grams for the head. Unlike other Ressences, it pushed the minute index from under the glass to an external bezel, which further compresses it visually. I reviewed that watch earlier this year and was taken with its wearability. It puts the unique aesthetic and dial display Ressence is known for into a form that would be easy to wear daily. Identifying this, the ever sartorially-savvy and horologically inclined Mark Cho, founder of The Armoury, took the TYPE 9 and remixed it to lean toward dress watch aesthetics, and, more importantly, work with a suit. The dial, originally in silver or teal, has been rendered in warm, copper-toned salmon with a subtle sandblast finish. The explorer-esque...

De Bethune Shrinks the DB25 Starry Varius SJX Watches
De Bethune Shrinks Sep 8, 2025

De Bethune Shrinks the DB25 Starry Varius

De Bethune narrows the diameter of the bestselling DB25 Starry Varius but broadens its horizons with an entrancing red-leaning-purple dial achieved by heating titanium. And it’s more than just a pretty face, the DB25xs Starry Varius packs one of the most advanced two-hand manual wound calibres on the market. Initial Thoughts A personal favourite of mine, the Starry Varius line is gorgeous, technically adept, and meaningfully customisable. De Bethune justifies this variant as representing the night sky after a volcanic eruption, and colour perfectly matches viral, and hauntingly beautiful, images taken after the Tonga volcano eruption in 2022. As a chronometry-focused movement that paradoxically lacks a seconds hand, I find the cal. DB2005 very interesting. I’d even argue it makes sense as the six-day power reserve paints it as an endurance timekeeper. It’s also more technically interesting than most of the – very finely decorated – three handers from younger independents, even if Be Bethune’s R&D; efforts have dwindled recently. Under A Sea of Stars The dials are mirror polished titanium, which De Bethune heat oxidises for colour. While the brand’s specific method is proprietary, the thickness of this oxide layer determines which wavelengths of light transmit back to the observer, and this Burgundy dial must have a thinner oxide layer than the brand’s typical blue. Next, artisans set dozens of tiny gold pins into the dial to marks starts, before a micro-mill...

Introducing: The Innovative Berneron Quantième Annuel Fratello
Berneron Sep 6, 2025

Introducing: The Innovative Berneron Quantième Annuel

Independent watchmaking has a special kind of magic. It is where bold ideas meet artisanal execution, free from the constraints of mass production, design by committee, and shareholder interests. Few embody this spirit more convincingly than Sylvain Berneron, whose debut model, the 2023 Mirage, was met with instant critical acclaim. With his second creation, the […] Visit Introducing: The Innovative Berneron Quantième Annuel to read the full article.

First Look – New Full-Steel and Blue Editions of the Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Frederique Constant Sep 5, 2025

First Look – New Full-Steel and Blue Editions of the Frederique Constant Classics Premiere

Frederique Constant, the brand that has cemented a reputation for accessible luxury, unveils two new iterations of its Classics Premiere unisex dress watch. Dressed in attractive pastel dial colours, the compact 38.5mm case size is paired with a new stainless steel bracelet for a more contemporary and versatile look. When applied to watchmaking, the term […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Releases Seen During Geneva Watch Days 2025 Fratello
Sep 5, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Releases Seen During Geneva Watch Days 2025

Another Friday, another list! This week, we will follow up on last week’s article on the brands to watch during Geneva Watch Days. We have seen many great releases from various brands in this super-busy week. Some are hyper-expensive timepieces with grail potential, while others are more affordable stunners from small brands. As a result, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Releases Seen During Geneva Watch Days 2025 to read the full article.

25 Of The Best Red Dial Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 4, 2025

25 Of The Best Red Dial Watches

More so than almost any other color option, a watch with a red dial begs to be noticed - whether the watch is large or small, simple or complicated, soberly matte or luxuriously shiny in its choice of case material. It’s not hard to see why: crimson and scarlet tones have long symbolized heat, sensuality, and even hints of temptation and danger. Best of all, for anyone inclined to take the plunge into red-dial watches, there are more options these days than ever, in just about every price range and style. Here we showcase 25 watches with red dials, some of which you can buy new and some which might require a little hunting on the secondary market. Orient Bambino Day-Date Price: $430, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug to Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic F6B22 Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its much larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino, Orient’s dressy gents’ model, mostly offers simple three-handed options but also a handful of “quiet” complications, like the intriguing designed Bambino Day-Date, here in a red-dialed execution. The Roman hour numerals and railway minute track surround a pair of asymmetrically balanced subdials, a smaller one at 10 o’clock for the day of the week and a larger one at 5 o’c...

Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey s QP Balancier Greubel Sep 4, 2025

Style and Substance in Greubel Forsey’s QP Balancier

Greubel Forsey repackages its cutting edge perpetual calendar in a sleeker, more accessible format as the QP Balancier. It’s still a highly legible calendar that adjusts forward and back via the crown without need of tools or fear of damage. Despite the simpler styling, the QP Balancier retains the high-end movement decoration the brand is known for. Initial Thoughts Greubel Forsey was arguably a latecomer to the world of complications, spending its first decade on chronometry, refining the tourbillon. The brand’s first complication, the GMT presented in 2011, applied an unfamiliar approach to a familiar complication. That set the tone for the brand’s first perpetual calendar four years later – the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation. At its heart was a “mechanical computer” programmed with 48-month leap year cycle that allowed the calendar to be adjusted forward and back without issue, all from the crown. The Quantième Perpétuel à Équation of 2015 While the result is not novel, – Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. have bi-directional perpetual calendar as well – the method certainly is. Greubel Forsey paired the mechanical computer with a similarly sophisticated in-line display – using four layers of stacked disks – making its perpetual as easy to read as it is to use. The new QP Balancier is a more focused watch than its predecessor, as it does away with the 24-second inclined tourbillon and equation of time. While wider, the case is also slimmer an...

In-Depth: TAG Heuer Achieves Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Achieves Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth: TAG Heuer Achieves Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation

TAG Heuer is marking the rollout of its new-and-improved, and in-house, carbon hairsprings – timed to coincide with the 350th anniversary of the hairspring’s invention – with a pair of chronographs: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring. More than just two new watches, the TH-Carbonspring is a notable technical achievement that might promise an entirely new generation of TAG Heuer movements equipped with oscillators that boast all of the advantages of silicon, but with added robustness. Protected by several patents, TH-Carbonspring is also the result of a fascinating process of research and development to overcome a surprising problem. Kitted out in carbon composite dials and cases, the two watches are centred on TAG Heuer’s latest-generation carbon-nanocomposite balance springs, with each being a limited edition of just 50 pieces Initial thoughts Both models serve as a launch platform for TAG Heuer’s improved and industrialisation-ready carbon hairspring. While the brand has been flirting with carbon hairsprings since 2019, its use of the technology has been intermittent and on limited scale. TAG Heuer explains previous attempts at carbon springs were not up to the brand’s standards, which is to say the hairsprings did not perform as expected and could not be produced at scale. The new TH-Carbonspring indicates TAG Heuer has perfected the technology to make reliable hairsprings, which m...