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VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet used Oct 30, 2022

VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision

It’s well-known that between 1975 and 1985, the Swiss watch industry collapsed and its chances of survival looked slim. Many manufacturers went bust or were forced to join larger conglomerates. The primary cause of the disruption was, of course, the innovation of electronic quartz movements. On Christmas day, 1969, Seiko released the Astron, the first-ever … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How Audemars Piguet used the quartz crisis to refine their brand vision appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Oct 27, 2022

Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition

When an anniversary comes along for a brand, it is almost obligatory for them to release a special-edition watch – which is great news for us. The Speake-Marin Ripples watch made waves upon its debut as the brand’s first entry into the steel-sports category. In celebration of their 20th anniversary, we now have 50 pieces … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 27, 2022

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide

To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does).  Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...

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IWC collaborate with Mr Sabotage on special-edition camouflage strap Time+Tide
IWC collaborate Oct 22, 2022

IWC collaborate with Mr Sabotage on special-edition camouflage strap

Brand collaborations are becoming almost as popular now as vintage dive-watch reissues, so much so that the phenomenon now extends to straps as well as watches. Although it may seem a little ridiculous at first, anything which motivates watch companies to become more creative and branch out from the norms is a great thing in … ContinuedThe post IWC collaborate with Mr Sabotage on special-edition camouflage strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition Time+Tide
Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies Oct 20, 2022

The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition

Hamilton’s history is a rich one. After taking over existing manufacturing facilities in Pennsylvania and establishing the Hamilton Watch Company in 1892, the brand was first focused on producing accurate railroad pocket watches, before shifting production to wristwatches after WWI, eventually only producing military watches during WWII. The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket watch focuses on … ContinuedThe post The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A. Lange & Söhne Exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 12, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong

Admired for its quality of engineering and finishing, A. Lange & Söhne is bringing Glashütte to Asia with a pair of exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong. The events will showcase the brand’s watches – including important historical models no longer in the catalogue like the Zeitwerk Luminous – as well as the brand’s most important complications like the constant-force mechanism. The Mechanical Masters takes place from October 27-30 in Singapore (sign up here), while Devoted to the Highest Standards in Hong Kong happens from October 25-31 in Hong Kong (sign up here). At the Singapore event, Lange’s technical excellence will be personified with live demonstrations of watchmaking, engraving, and other crafts required to complete a watch. The four-day event in Singapore will be fronted by two gentlemen from Glashütte: Robert Hoffmann, the chief watchmaker for the Zeitwerk department, and Robert Arnold, an artisan-engraver who will demonstrate the art of engraving the balance cock. A familiar face for anyone who’s attended past Lange events, Robert Hoffmann Event information Both events are open to the public, however, registration is required to attend. Singapore – The Mechanical Masters – 10:00 am-9:00 pm, October 27-30 ION Orchard 2 Orchard Turn Singapore 238801 Register for the Singapore event Hong Kong – Devoted to the Highest Standards – 10:00 am-7:30 pm, October 25-31 Landmark Atrium 15 Queen’s Road Central Central Hong Kong Regist...

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Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary Oct 1, 2022

Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary

Longines hasn’t launched too many watches this year, but it certainly unveiled a hit with the Master Collection 190th Anniversary. Based on the standard (and somewhat mundane) Master automatic, the anniversary edition sticks to a resolutely classical design but executes the dial in a surprisingly elaborate manner. The grained dial has deeply-engraved hour numerals that seem to be hand engraving at a glance, but are naturally done by machine given the affordability of the watch. Combined with the high-tech ETA calibre within, the Master anniversary offers a lot of watch for relatively little money – we explain why. Initial thoughts The Master anniversary struck me as a watch that is easily appealing when I first saw photos. Perhaps too easily appealing, because the design is a combination of familiar, likeable elements. But the dial seemed to be done unusually well, so I thought it was worth a second look. I wasn’t disappointed with the watch in the metal. The design is indeed a mix of details that are widely used elsewhere, but the execution is interesting enough – and the price sufficiently low – to make the Master anniversary an unexpectedly compelling watch. The fact that the Master anniversary is this compelling is testament to the importance of the dial. Everything else about it is identical to the standard 40 mm model. Even at arm’s length the engraved hour numerals are obvious and instantly give the watch the appearance of something fancier (and more exp...

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15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+ Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver 200m Sep 23, 2022

15 Rugged Watches, From Under $300 to $10,000+

Some occasions call for a suit, some for jeans, khakis, and t-shirts. Some events demand a dressy watch, others a tough, rugged watch that can take a beating. If the latter style of timepiece is what you're in the market for lately, check out our list of 15 tough, rugged watches (in ascending order of price) that not only boast impressive levels of functionality, reliability, and resistance to extreme depths, temperatures, and shocks, but also look very stylish on the wrist.  Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver 200m Price: $280, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 11.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Citizen Eco-Drive E168  Citizen unveiled its Promaster line of professional-grade sports watches in 1989 and its Promaster Diver models - equipped with the Japanese brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology, which uses light to perpetually charge the movement - have proven to be among the most popular of Citizen’s vast portfolio of timepieces. The 44mm steel case features a 60-click rotating bezel made of aluminum (here in maritime blue) and a screw-down crown positioned at 4 o’clock. The blue dial sports wide hands and large applied hour markers, all generously lumed for underwater visibility, and a date window at 4 o’clock. The prominent minute hand with its orange detailing adds another layer of contrast, and hence legibility, to the dial. The Eco-Drive movement offers six months of power on a full charge and boasts an accuracy of ...

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Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Sep 22, 2022

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue

As one of the world’s biggest watch retailers, Bucherer has long enjoyed unique relationships with leading watchmakers. Starting in 2016, Bucherer commissioned a series of special editions from a diversity of brands, including the well-known Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue. Girard-Perregaux (GP) is the latest marque to create a special run for the Swiss retailer with the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue. This variant of GP’s trademark complication once again is inspired by the retailer’s corporate colour: instead of a flat black in the standard version of the watch, the titanium bridges of the movement are highlighted in dark blue. Initial thoughts As with most of the Bucherer’s other editions, the new Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is a change in livery, but one that transforms the feel of the watch. Going from a muted black to a vibrant blue is a simple tweak, but one that adds to the visual appeal by making the architecture of the movement more apparent. The blue treatment makes the bridges stand out and emphasise their graceful, arched form, a quality that is less obvious in the standard version because of its near-monochromatic finish. The standard version with its black bridges All that makes for a contemporary look that’s more striking, a perfect fit for a calibre that’s essentially an ultra-modern take on a concept dating to 1860. At the same time, the modern yet restrained aesthetic is appropriate given Bucherer’s status as ...

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Habring2 Introduces the Chrono Felix Perpetual SJX Watches
Massena Lab Sep 21, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Chrono Felix Perpetual

Continuing with the vintage-inspired aesthetic that has informed many of its recent models, Habring² is elaborating upon its single-button chronograph. Now the brand’s flagship model, the Chrono Felix Perpetual is self-explanatory – a hand-wind Felix chronograph with a perpetual calendar module. As is typical for Habring², the Chrono Felix Perpetual (CFP) approaches the double complication in a practical and affordable manner. It’s powered by the brand’s own A11 base movement, while the calendar is the familiar and reliable Dubois-Depraz module. The CFP is making its debut in two variants: a “salmon” dial with Breguet numerals as well as a striking black-and-silver version for Massena Lab. The “salmon” dial model available from Habring² Initial thoughts Although Habring² introduced a split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar three years ago, the CFP feels like an all-new product. And it is, in fact, new in most tangible respects. The case is smaller while the movement has been dressed up and even incorporates an in-house escapement and balance assembly. The CFP is a handsome watch with surprisingly compact proportions. In fact, the CFP will feel like the standard Habring² Felix chronograph, since they share the same case middle with the CFP having a thicker bezel. The Massena Lab edition While both versions of the CFP have the same dimensions, they are aesthetics opposites despite both being vintage inspired. Habring²’s edition is a warm,...

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Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Sep 19, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies

A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...

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Why you should pay more attention to the Baume & Mercier Riviera Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Riviera How does one Sep 16, 2022

Why you should pay more attention to the Baume & Mercier Riviera

How does one of the older brands around stay relevant throughout the years, you may find yourself asking. Since their inception in 1830, Baume & Mercier have done it all – Art Deco, unique shapes, chronographs, and, in the 1970s, the Riviera – an integrated-bracelet sports watch. Today, as part of the Richemont group, they’ve … ContinuedThe post Why you should pay more attention to the Baume & Mercier Riviera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Geneva Watch Days 2022 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy Quill & Pad
Sep 10, 2022

Geneva Watch Days 2022 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy

The third edition of the sunny, COVID-19-friendly Geneva Watch Days came to a close on September 2, so of course we must talk about it. And this time we brought our friends Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello and Łukasz Doskocz of CH24! Please join this Quill & Pad round table discussion of what we did and didn’t like at Geneva Watch Days 2022.

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Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton ambassador Bradley Cooper has Sep 8, 2022

Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador

Bradley Cooper has got a new watch. The Hollywood actor has just been unveiled as the face of Louis Vuitton’s Tambour, the brand’s most famous model that celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. The news will perhaps bother some po-faced folk, who’ll no doubt start muttering about Cooper’s previous affiliation as an IWC ambassador and … ContinuedThe post Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Sep 8, 2022

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition

A “concept” store for high-end watches when it first opened in 2005, Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) closed its original location in the now-closed Hilton hotel in 2019. Three years on, Singapore retailer Sincere is reviving SHH at the city state’s landmark casino resort. To commemorate the event, SHH has unveiled several limited editions created in collaboration with independent watchmakers led by the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe SHH Edition. A watch with twin balance wheels linked by a differential, the SHH edition is housed in the streamlined “Convexe” case that defines the Greubel Forsey’s sports watches. But unlike the brand’s sports watches to date, this is striking in an ultra-contemporary purple livery that’s uncommon for such a complicated watch. The rationale behind the juxtaposition of bold colours and refined complications is straightforward according to Sincere chief executive Ong Ban. “For the new generation, watches go with their dress and the younger ones want… [watches] that go with sneakers or hoodies,” explains Mr Ong, “But while the cosmetics evolve over the years, but the essence of finely executed movements remains the same.” Even the titanium main plate of the movement is finished in purple Initial thoughts The new Double Balancier is a haute horlogerie sports watch in an eye-catching colour and the requisite integrated strap that will no doubt draw a new audience to the brand. While Greubel Forsey (GF) wat...

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Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sep 5, 2022

Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon

As Cortina Watch celebrates its Golden Jubilee this year, it has progressively rolled out a series of commemorative editions, including a pair from Patek Philippe in the form of a unique Dome Clock (that’s unfortunately not for sale) and a special Calatrava ref. 5057G (that fortunately is). Now the Singapore retailer has taken the covers off its most extravagant anniversary edition yet, the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary. The anniversary lineup is made up of five unique versions of Franck Muller’s triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch, each set with 28.4 carats of baguette-cut gemstones. One of the five watches is complete – the others are still being put together – and is on display at an exhibition in Singapore taking place from now till September 13, 2022. The diamond-set version with a rainbow-finished movement that’s now on show in Singapore Initial thoughts Franck Muller is one of the leading practitioners of lavishly-jewelled complicated watches, while Cortina Watch has long been a champion of high-jewellery watches, so the anniversary Vanguard tourbillons make sense both ways. While the large-format bling has a niche appeal, the Vanguard Revolution 3 movement is interesting in itself. In fact, the movement is quintessentially Franck Muller in how it highlights the tourbillon. Here the tourbillon regulator is less about mechanics than visual spectacle. Not only does the tourbillon twi-axial and spherical, it also ...

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INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two Sep 3, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum

Luxury watches sold by fashion brands will always be fighting an uphill battle to be taken seriously by elitist watch enthusiasts, but after two decades the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has definitely made more than enough compelling arguments for its legitimacy. Between the Tambour Spin Time, the Spin Time Air Quantum, and the artisanal-focused Tambour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Sylvain Pinaud Origine SJX Watches
Carl F. Bucherer Sep 2, 2022

Up Close: Sylvain Pinaud Origine

Sylvain Pinaud entered the independent watchmaking stage in 2019 when he revealed his monopoussoir chronograph that had an unusual dial-side mechanism and a high level of decoration. But he was working on something both more concise and more elaborate all along, the Origine. Launched earlier in 2022, the Origine is a wristwatch that pursues a familiar formula in independent watchmaking – a time-only movement finished extremely well and mostly made by the watchmaker himself, except for the dial and case that are the work of an industry favourite. But Mr Pinaud does it better than most with an original movement construction and gorgeous decoration, though he is clearly still perfecting his brand’s defining aesthetic. NB: The watch pictured is the prototype of the Origine so it is slightly imperfect in terms of cleanliness and detailing. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Origine might seem like one of many time-only rolled out by watchmakers who recently set up their own brands. But it stands apart in several aspects. For one, Mr Pinaud is an experienced watchmaker unlike many nascent independent watchmakers. Now in his forties, he graduated from watchmaking school in 1998 before embarking on a career that took him to Franck Muller as well as Carl F. Bucherer. And then there’s the quality of execution, which is extremely high. Not only is the movement an original construction by Mr Pinaud himself, the decoration is top class. In fact, a major part of the Origine’...

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HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches Time+Tide
Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre Aug 30, 2022

HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches

While conglomerate brands from groups like Swatch and LVMH have a large presence, arguably the sector of watchmaking that is drawing the most interest from collectors these days are the independents. Therefore, these brands really have to standout with their products, and they typically do so with novelties that embody the best of horological craftsmanship. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Nivada Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” Second Edition SJX Watches
Nivada Grenchen has unveiled another customised Aug 30, 2022

Nivada Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” Second Edition

Having launched a “panda” version earlier this year, Nivada Grenchen has unveiled another customised chronograph for its Dubai retailer. Clad in a striking olive-green, the Chronomaster Automatic “Perpétuel” Second Edition once again features Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial and bezel. Initial thoughts While the Second Edition is a repetition of the first in a different colour, it is undoubtedly more striking. Olive green is a fashionable colour today but it works well with the faux-vintage lume and retro style of the watch. More broadly, the vintage-inspired design also suits the calligraphic style of the Eastern Arabic numerals. Like the first edition, the new model costs almost double the standard Chronomaster. It’s a steep premium for a new dial, but the Eastern-Arabic numerals have a unique appeal, particularly in the Middle East. The only downside to the Second Edition is arguably the fact that it came second – some who bought the “panda” without knowing this was in the pipeline might have wanted to wait for this one instead. A sixties design The Second Edition is based on the Chronomaster Automatic, a sports chronograph produced by Nivada in the 1960s. Conceived as a multi-purpose chronograph for both divers and aviators, the Chronomaster is rated to 200 m but also has a countdown bezel and tachymeter scale – this also explains the text above six o’clock. Besides the olive green dial, the key feature of the Chronomaster Perpétuel are the Ea...

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Zenith Ambassador And Supercoach Patrick Mouratoglou: ‘Little Details Make Big Differences’ Quill & Pad
Zenith Ambassador Aug 29, 2022

Zenith Ambassador And Supercoach Patrick Mouratoglou: ‘Little Details Make Big Differences’

Patrick Mouratoglou morphed from a frustrated player in his teens into today’s perennial supercoach; he is able to deal with the highly complicated psyche and game of an elite competitor just the way a horologist is qualified to finetune a supercomplication. And he is a Zenith ambassador. Learn all about him here thanks to tennis and timepiece writer Miguel Seabra!

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GENEVA WATCH DAYS: The Bulgari novelties find a luxe upgrade for the Octo in gold Time+Tide
Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari Aug 29, 2022

GENEVA WATCH DAYS: The Bulgari novelties find a luxe upgrade for the Octo in gold

In March this year, Bulgari released the world’s thinnest mechanical watch with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, only to be beaten again in July by the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari by just 0.05mm. While creating another record-breaking watch within a handful of months would be inconceivable, the Bulgari lineup for Geneva Watch Days offers an … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: The Bulgari novelties find a luxe upgrade for the Octo in gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Code41 Introduces the Mecascape Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille Aug 24, 2022

Code41 Introduces the Mecascape Pocket Watch

A startup that relies solely on crowdfunding for its timepieces, Code41 has launched a variety of wristwatches since its founding in 2016. All of its products to date have been wristwatches with a stylised, mechanical appearance. Now Code41 is launching its first pocket watch, the Mecascape. Essentially a portable clock that doubles up as a desk clock, the Mecascape is powered by a manually-wound movement with an eight-day power reserve. Like the brand’s other timepieces, the Mecascape has a modern, open-worked aesthetic, but applied to a regulator-style display with each of the indications in separate sub-dials. Initial thoughts More of a portable panel clock than a pocket watch, the Mecascape is an interesting product that doesn’t quite fit into any category of timepiece. The best way to describe it would be as an interesting mechanical object that watch enthusiasts might appreciate. Though slim, it is quite large at about 10 cm long, which is about a third shorter than an iPhone. The size means its practicality as a portable timepiece is limited. It would seem more useful as a small desk clock. Visually it has the modern, open-worked aesthetic found on watches from the likes of Richard Mille and Hublot. The style works well with the concept of the Mecascape. And thanks to its scale the mechanics are more easily observed than on a wristwatch. At just over US$9,300, the Mecascape seems fairly priced on initial examination, largely thanks to its unconventional form and...

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