Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for Frequency / Beat Rate (vph, Hz)

5,146 articles · 3,707 videos found · page 176 of 296

Changing of the Guard: Bremont Celebrates the Coronation of King Charles III & New Leadership at The Wing Worn & Wound
Bremont Celebrates May 8, 2023

Changing of the Guard: Bremont Celebrates the Coronation of King Charles III & New Leadership at The Wing

There’s a certain level of homeland pride in every way that Bremont operates. It’s apparent in their designs and palpable throughout their entire company from top to bottom. The Giles brothers have made it their life’s mission to produce beautifully British-made mechanical watches and if there needs to be any more confirmation of how successfully that’s going, then let “The Wing”, Bremont’s vast campus and headquarters in Henley which has subsequently brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores, put any queries to bed. As Bremont ambassador and now friend of Worn & Wound, Alex Bescoby eloquently put it in a recent interview, “Bremont is all about beautifully putting together traditional and British design, and celebrating that.” Well, for the folks living across the pond, there’s lots to celebrate as this past weekend, in front of 2,200 ceremony attendees and millions watching around the world, King Charles III was crowned as Great Britain’s new monarch. It’s only fitting that Bremont, who already has an ongoing partnership with the Ministry of Defence (MoD) to honor His Majesty’s Armed Forces, has released two limited edition models that marks a moment in history with the coronation of His Majesty. The MBII King Charles III Limited Edition largely retains the familiar design cues of the Martin-Baker collection – dual crown configuration, internal rotating bezel, a distinct knurled barrel design and internal case reinforcements. As every other Bremo...

Read article
IWC Returns to Miami with Bright New Titanium Pilot Chronograph 41 Worn & Wound
Autodrome May 5, 2023

IWC Returns to Miami with Bright New Titanium Pilot Chronograph 41

Last year marked the inaugural Formula 1 race in Miami at the newly constructed International Autodrome, the second F1 race in the United States of the season before adding a third in Las Vegas this year (see our recap of the race experience right here). To celebrate the occasion, Mercedes team sponsor, IWC, released a Petronas-AMG themed Pilots Chronograph 41, featuring bright Petronas green dial accents, and a titanium case (see our live look at that watch right here). As we approach round 5 of the 2023 Formula 1 season, once again in Miami, IWC has returned to the Petronas Pilots Chronograph 41 with a bright new strap option befitting of the venue, and matching the special livery seen on the Mercedes cars for the race. The IWC Pilot Chronograph hasn’t always hit the right notes for our taste, but when it received a sized down 41mm case back in 2021, it started to make a lot more sense. Throw in the surprisingly excellent Tribute to 3705 and the watch really hit its stride. When it received a titanium case last year in Miami, the watch overcame one of its biggest downsides: its heft. The lightweight case made a huge difference (similar to the Ceratanium Tribute model), and remains a feature we’d like to see added to more regular production references of the watch. As it stands now, if you want the titanium case, you had better like bright colors as this Petronas green dial is the only way to get it. Thankfully, the Petronas green works well here, and while it’s cer...

Read article
eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore Worn & Wound
Hamilton Enicar May 4, 2023

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor Starting this week off with a killer vintage diver, a Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor. This beauty is the classic 36mm dual crown type, with the same case style used by companies like Bulova, Hamilton, Enicar and Benrus to name a few. The Archimedes stands out from other Super Compressors with the bright orange dial. This example is in excellent condition with an unpolished case and flawless dial. The dual crowns are the oversized type, with the classic cross-hatched design on the ends. Seller states the watch runs well, but no movement picture. You really can’t go wrong with these EPSA cased Super Compressor divers, and they are only getting more desired by collectors and harder to find in good shape. View auction here. Vintage Accutron Navigator Here’s a rare and unusual piece, a vintage 1967 Accutron Navigator Mark 2 ships chronometer. These were used as extremely accurate time keeping devices on ships to aid in navigation. Usually these are high grade manual clocks, but Accutron dipped their toes in the water (see what I did there? ;-)) with their tuning fork movements. I read that this clock used three tuning fork movements mounted at...

Read article
Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement Worn & Wound
May 4, 2023

Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement

One of the big hits of the recently completed Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco came from Vero, a brand we’ve been covering for years. The transformation that Vero has made as a company doesn’t get enough coverage. Longtime readers might remember the time we took a look at how Vero was manufacturing watches at their Oregon headquarters, but since that time, the brand has changed their strategy and found their groove with an entirely new aesthetic. In 2021, with the launch of the Open Water diver, Vero made a hard pivot toward outsourcing their manufacturing to trusted Swiss partners, and refocusing the brand on customer service (they now offer a ten year warranty) and shifting the design language into something a little bolder and more colorful. The Open Water and Workhorse Chrono have proven to be durable hits on the microbrand scene, each spawning multiple new references since they made their debuts, and now they’re joined by the Meridian, a handsome manually wound piece that is a completely Vero take on the classic field watch.    Vero characterizes the Meridian as a “weekend watch,” which is borne out in the casual color schemes of the two models that recently launched the collection. First up is the Rambler, a bright blue dial with a red and white outer track, and easy to read black Arabic numerals at each hour. We also have the Rally, which is something of an inversion of the Rambler with its cream colored dial and accents in the perimeter in blue and r...

Read article
Introducing the O.G Deep Space, the First Watch from a New Brand Promising Small Batch, Themed Watches Worn & Wound
Apr 25, 2023

Introducing the O.G Deep Space, the First Watch from a New Brand Promising Small Batch, Themed Watches

O.G Watches is a new brand that has recently come to our attention, helmed by Oliver Gallaugher, a Bristol, England based watch lover and self-taught designer. Oliver has worked with watch brands in the past during the design stage, helping them to, as he puts it, conceptualize their watch ideas. Now, he’s started his own brand, under his own name, and it launches with a project called Deep Space that is actually quite ambitious. It also makes good use of his worldwide industry connections to create a final product that seems to combine many of Oliver’s own wide ranging interests. For O.G, Oliver promises a brand that will produce watches in small runs, each with their own unique themes. The Deep Space caught our attention as a first effort that’s remarkably polished, and has us interested in what might come next.  The star of the show is certainly the dial, which is said to be inspired by the flicker of stars in the night sky. This is, of course, fertile ground for watch designers, who have been making dials that incorporate nighttime scenes or star inspired motifs for almost as long as watchmaking has existed. What Oliver has done with the Deep Space is craft a dial that evokes the night sky almost completely through texture. The “stars” are hand engraved on the dial’s surface, and the entire dial has been brushed diagonally and given a coating that is meant to reflect the maximum amount of light when the dial is tilted, creating a “flashing” effect betw...

Read article
Blog posts The Roundup – A Timepiece That Brings Hope, Rugged Watch for Rangers, and Some Serious Storage Solutions. Worn & Wound
Apr 24, 2023

Blog posts The Roundup – A Timepiece That Brings Hope, Rugged Watch for Rangers, and Some Serious Storage Solutions.

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The post Blog posts The Roundup – A Timepiece That Brings Hope, Rugged Watch for Rangers, and Some Serious Storage Solutions. appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Read article
A Week In Watches Ep. 46: All The Collaborations, Plus One Anniversary Worn & Wound
Norqain Apr 23, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 46: All The Collaborations, Plus One Anniversary

Welcome to A Week In Watches, episode 45! This week, we were inundated with collaboration watches, and they are as diverse as they are interesting. From a $110 Timex, to a $26,000 Czapek, there’s a little something for everyone here. The most humble release of the week comes from Timex and our friends at Huckberry, who brought back a classic form the ’90s, the Ironman Flix watch. It’s a jolt of energy next to today’s modern ultra smart devices, and it’s a perfect workout companion even without all the bells & whistles of something like an Apple Watch. Another big theme this week (and recent years, come to think of it) is big colors and dial textures. We’ve got blue wave dials, lava red dials, and rose engine turned dials all making their way into a trio of releases from Czapek, Straum, and Atelier Wen, and their respective collab partners. Finally, we say congratulations to our friends at Norqain for hitting their 5 year anniversary, who celebrated with a selection of 5 new watches. We take a closer look at their version of an openworked dial, and wish them continued success in their journey. Here’s hoping we get more lume dials sometime soon. Next weekend, we’ll be coming at you from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair, and if you’re in the Bay Area, we hope to see you there. For more details on this year’s event, head over to windupwatchfair.com and get a look at the schedule for each of the days, as well as the extensive list of brands you can look f...

Read article
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful Chronograph – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Apr 22, 2023

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful Chronograph – Reprise

Rarely has the term sports watch been as appropriate as when applied to the BR 03-94 Multimeter from Bell & Ross. This nifty chronograph displays five different scales on the dial to measure various things. In that sense, it is a modern-day version of the vintage chronographs with “snail scales” that did the same, though not in such an elaborate way.

Read article
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Tanner T. Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat $2610 Apr 21, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Tanner T.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Tanner T. shares a tidy three watch collection that spans from some all-time classics, to some newcomers on the scene. There’s plenty of style here to enjoy, and even a reminder not to take ourselves too seriously. Best of all, this collection could come in under budget at the right spec. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I must admit this was a challenge, not because I am spoiled for choice (which we all are these days as watch enthusiasts), but because I actually aspire to not be a collector. Wearing and enjoying a single piece day in, day out is something I pursue and practice. There’s something rewarding about a watch so satisfying and inherently capable that it requires no stablemates. Now for the rest of us who live in reality and want to experience more, here are three watches that comprise a solid trio and share unique aspects about what keeps collecting interesting. Oh, and they all fit well under five thousand of your hard-earned buckaroos. Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat ($2610 in small, $2740 in large) Cartier’s reputation as the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers” is another way of suggesting they’re your favorite watch company’s favorite watch company (the folks at Jaeger LeCoultre are gonna love that). The storied maison has been on an incredible run over the last few years with reimagined hits li...

Read article
Hublot Continues their Collaboration with Tattoo Artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi in the New Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Collection Worn & Wound
Hublot Continues their Collaboration Apr 19, 2023

Hublot Continues their Collaboration with Tattoo Artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi in the New Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Collection

Hublot and tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi are back again for another entry in the Sang Bleu collection, a series of watches named for Plescia-Buchi’s tattoo studios located in Los Angeles, Zurich, and London. The Sang Bleu watches always incorporate complex geometry and the watch design equivalent of the intricate line work that is core to Plesia-Buchi’s design language. These design elements translate remarkably well to a watch, if you’re at all inclined toward the abstract, at least. Up until now, the Big Bang has been Plesia-Buchi’s preferred canvas, but that changes here with a selection of watches using the barrel shaped Spirit of Big Bang as a starting point.  As with previous Sang Bleu watches, the new editions seen here are marked by a series of facets throughout the case that create a compelling, sculpted look. The overlapping geometric shapes have a grid-like consistency and at some angles appear to take on the appearance of armor. Hublot has given Plescia-Buchi a great deal of freedom to work outside the normal constraints of the Spirit of Big Bang case shape. While that case is the clear inspiration for these watches and certainly falls under its larger umbrella, the lines of the case have been reworked to a certain extent, and the impression it gives from the front is quite a bit different in these Sang Bleu watches.  The dial is sapphire and provides a view to the skeletonized chronograph movement underneath it. Time is read by rotating disc “...

Read article
Czapek & The Collective Hit the Beach With New P.04 Lanikai Collab Worn & Wound
Czapek & Apr 18, 2023

Czapek & The Collective Hit the Beach With New P.04 Lanikai Collab

The Collective has announced their latest Portfolio series watch done in collaboration with Czapek, and it’s just in time to capture some major summer vibes. The watch, which is called the P.04 Lanikai, takes inspiration from Hawaii’s unique beaches with a conceptual dial that captures their vibrant colors and textures. It’s a dial you can almost hear and feel, taking full advantage of the given real estate by forgoing even hour markers to maximize the feeling of connection with the source of inspiration. The concept is built within Czapek’s Antarctique 40.5mm steel case with integrated bracelet, and as fun as the dial is, it’s all business around back.  The watch is officially the Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective, and the brand claims that three years of design, development and prototyping went into bringing it to life. Much of that revolves around the novel enamel dial which evokes those soft wave patterns of a sandy beach. The dial work was done by the artisans at Donzé Cadrans, who had to develop a process to create the unique scene in enamel. Their work begins with a concave blank, which creates the sense of depth to the dial even in its finished form. Next, the texture is stamped from a hand-engraved mold before the enamel itself is layered and fired. Enamel is notoriously tricky to get right, and the uneven depth at play here didn’t exactly help the situation, but there’s no arguing with the end result. All of that work is apparent at a glance...

Read article
Getting Modular with the Liberum DMD 001 Worn & Wound
Formex offer Apr 18, 2023

Getting Modular with the Liberum DMD 001

As watch enthusiasts, we understand the desire to change up the look of our timepieces without breaking the bank. Thankfully, the market for third party straps and bracelets has exploded in recent years, and quick release options have made swapping them out a breeze. But sometimes, a new set of shoes just isn’t enough. Still, the options for a more dramatic swap have been somewhat limited until recently. Brands like Formex offer an inventive quick bezel swap system and Hegid offers an interchangeable case system. Still these options leave a gap at a more attainable budget. Enter Liberum, an Italian microbrand with a new modular watch system that’s both fun-focused and budget-friendly, with a project that is ending soon on Kickstarter. The watch features a modular design consisting of five different colored outer cases, one or two inner cases (depending on the package you select), and five integrated polyurethane rubber straps. These pieces seamlessly integrate with each other, allowing you to swap and combine them for 25 different color combinations.  While some color combinations may work better than others, the Liberum watch lets you switch and swap until your heart’s content. Its genius lies in its simplicity: the durable TPE outer watch cases integrate seamlessly over a stainless steel inner case encapsulating the dial and movement in a sapphire sandwich, making the swap incredibly easy. To change the case and strap, all you need to do is remove the quick-releas...

Read article
Up Close: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 Apr 17, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327

Breguet has announced a new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327. Succeeding the ref. 5327 that’s been in the catalogue almost two decades, the new ref. 7327 retains the traditional style that defines the brand while incorporating refinements and gentle modernisation in the design. Importantly, the ref. 7327 features a new perpetual calendar mechanism that boasts an elaborate retrograde display that illustrates Breguet’s sophisticated approach to movement construction. Initial thoughts The design of the ref. 7327 is quintessential Breguet and indisputably the main attraction. The orderly yet asymmetrical dial finished in guilloche, pomme hands, and the slim case with a fluted band – it is Breguet. Yet I’d be remiss not to mention the immense charm and finesse the ref. 7327 exudes. Thoughtfully executed dress watches are seldom encountered today, especially ones with svelte, just-right proportions, but this a niche that Breguet has mastered with consistency and quality. The design of the ref. 7327 is particularly interesting because it is clearly classic Breguet, but with a modern twist. The dial is slightly cleaner than old-school Breguet wristwatches, which were often elaborately, and sometimes fussily, decorated. But unlike the facelifted ref. 7337, for instance, which traditionalists might argue is too modern, the ref. 7327 is still eminently classical. Additionally, the addition of a retrograde month display at 11 ...

Read article
Insight: The Ingenuity of the F.P. Journe Centigraphe SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Centigraphe Modern mechanical chronograph Apr 14, 2023

Insight: The Ingenuity of the F.P. Journe Centigraphe

Modern mechanical chronograph movements have mostly been conceived according to two standardised recipes. One is the vertical clutch approach exemplified by the the sporty, performance oriented cal. 4131 inside the Rolex Daytona, while the other is the classical, lateral coupling architecture used by the celebrated L951.1 in the Lange Datograph. Sticking with a successful architecture is no bad thing, after all, chronographs are complicated enough in their basic form. However, there are some chronographs that stand out for being truly original, like the F.P. Journe Centigraphe and its cal. 1506. Constructed like no other chronograph on the market, the Centigraphe seeks to measure times with a resolution of 1/100th of a second with a unique movement that is modern in its approach yet subtly references the work of John Harrison. In many ways it encapsulates the philosophy of François-Paul Journe, which prizes original, creative watchmaking that pays tribute to historical greats. The cal. 1506 Despite its achievements, the Centigraphe is overshadowed by the brand’s signature watches, namely the Resonance and Tourbillon Souverain, and remains one of of F.P. Journe’s less-known offerings. Paradoxically, the Centigraphe should be more recognised than most other F.P. Journe watches because has a tangible link to the world of celebrity with its Formula 1 provenance, having been conceived at the suggestion of Jean Todt, the former boss of Ferrari’s Formula 1 team. Although...

Read article
The Roundup: Fliegers, Divers and a Clock to Set Your Watches To Worn & Wound
Apr 13, 2023

The Roundup: Fliegers, Divers and a Clock to Set Your Watches To

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The post The Roundup: Fliegers, Divers and a Clock to Set Your Watches To appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Read article
Timex Q Gets Unusual Three Time Zone Chronograph Worn & Wound
Timex Q Gets Unusual Three Apr 13, 2023

Timex Q Gets Unusual Three Time Zone Chronograph

The wildly popular Timex Q collection welcomes a new, more complicated family this week with the introduction of the Q Three Time Zone Chronograph. The new watch brings a new level of practicality to the 40mm integrated frame with the addition of a 24 hour hand, a 12 hour bezel, and two adjustable hour hands. It might be called the Three Time Zone watch, but thanks to that 12 hour rotating bezel, you could actually track 5 if you really needed to. Timex is encouraging you to hit the open road with this watch, and it’s easy to see why, but we’ve still got a few questions about this one.  At a glance, this Timex Q looks to be a pretty straightforward GMT equipped chronograph, not an entirely uncommon function grouping for a quartz module. But the closer you look, the more odd details you’ll begin to notice. Is that second hour hand a GMT hand? If so, why is the bezel a 12 hour unit? There is no am/pm indication in sight, and Timex refers to that hand simply as the “2nd hour hand”. Closer still and you’ll notice that the 24 hour is actually located in the sub dial at 12 o’clock. This is an independently adjustable 24 hour hand that can be used to track home time, while the 1st and second hour hands can track local, and local adjacent (again, no am/pm indication) time zones against the circular hour markers, and a twist of the 12 hour bezel will even let you track an additional two. That’s 5 total by my count, though I’m not sure how practical doing so would...

Read article
One Watch to Rule Them All: A New Strategy Emerges at Watches & Wonders 2023 Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe booths These brands Apr 12, 2023

One Watch to Rule Them All: A New Strategy Emerges at Watches & Wonders 2023

When you enter Palexpo, the enormous convention center that is home to Watches & Wonders, you have an immediate decision to make: right or left? A glance to the left and you see the Tudor, Rolex, and Patek Philippe booths. These brands, in a lot of ways, anchor the entire show, and dominate much of the conversation for the duration of the fair. If you look to your right, you’ll be greeted by something entirely different. This year, it was a giant Ingenieur, spread across the top of the IWC booth at the end of the hall, and it was hard not to get the message that this watch, and this watch alone, was the brand’s sole focus for Watches & Wonders this year. Building your Watches & Wonders presence around a single watch was a trend that came into sharp focus at this year’s event.  The IWC booth at Watches & Wonders, viewed from the opposite end of the hall. Whether brands took a literal one watch approach (like Ulysee Nardin, who only showed the new Freak ONE this year) or put the lion’s share of their backing behind one release but dropped a few additional under the radar pieces (like IWC), it’s a strategy that makes for a stark contrast with what feels like a more traditional practice of overwhelming everyone in the meeting with tray, after tray, after tray of new watches to try on, photograph, write about, and otherwise consider. The single watch strategy communicates a sense of confidence, that a brand has hit on something so good that they don’t need to muddy...

Read article
The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Apr 10, 2023

The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication

Vacheron Constantin drops an incredible one-of-one reference from its Les Cabinotiers collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 The Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication is a two-dialled expression of the pinnacle of Vacheron’s craft No less than 774 components make up the elaborate movement that boasts 11 complications It’s hard to overstate the level of … ContinuedThe post The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article
The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now Time+Tide
Apr 10, 2023

The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now

Although the 2020s is a young decade so far, we’ve already been treated to a wealth of dial enrichment from textures, colours, and even shapes from plenty of big-name brands who traditionally don’t take risks. While that demonstrates a growing trend towards watch enthusiasts enjoying more characterful watches, that doesn’t mean that it’s anything new. … ContinuedThe post The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Apr 10, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton

Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing its presence in the realm of serious watchmaking, an endeavour that began with its purchase of movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) a decade ago. While its recent launches have been extravagant in typical Louis Vuitton style – ranging from a gothic automaton to the casino-inspired jump hours – the brand’s latest is contemporary and low key. Enter the Voyager Skeleton, an open-worked timepiece that incorporates Louis Vuitton’s design language in an unexpectedly minimalist design.  Initial thoughts While Louis Vuitton’s top-of-the-line complications are certainly showstoppers, its simpler, regular production watches have historically been a mixed bag. But with a clear change in direction at its watch division, changes seem to be afoot, beginning with the Voyager Skeleton. Granted, it is hardly an affordable watch at over US$50,000, but it is a good looking time-only watch. The highlight is the styling of the open-worked LV60 movement that is both striking and restrained. The bridges possesses a distinctive, geometric style that is decidedly architectural. Although the automatic-winding bridge clearly forms a large “LV”, the branding is surprisingly discreet. In fact, the face of the watch has no overt branding, save for the open-worked barrel. Overall, the execution of the movement is appealing and lives up to expectations, save for one detail – the Etachron regulator looks out of place considering the ...

Read article
SJX W&W; Highlights – Value Propositions and The Not-Quite SJX Watches
Louis Erard stands out Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – Value Propositions and The Not-Quite

Maybe unsurprising given the state of the industry – watchmakers enjoyed record sales in 2022 – value buys were few at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) this year. Amongst the independent watchmakers, just two stood out for being value buys, the Kudoke 3 and Urwerk UR-102 “Reloaded” – both of which I covered in my highlights amongst the indies. Not quite an independent watchmaker but niche nonetheless, Louis Erard stands out for the Excellence Marqueterie. Probably the best value amongst its many limited editions, the Excellence Marqueterie brings the art of wood marquetry to a previously unheard of price segment. Although it costs only about US$4,000, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial decorated with tiny pieces of exotic wood that have been sawn and applied by hand to form an M.C. Escher-like pattern. The Excellence Marqueterie. Image – Louis Erard Like most other niche brands, Louis Erard exhibited outside the halls of W&W;, where all of the establishment brands were located. Amongst the big names, only Tudor offered substantial value with its new models, although that is not news in itself since value is a fundamental characteristic of the brand. (Though it is arguable that Rolex offers strong value in all its models regardless of price, but certainly not as much as Tudor.) Two watches stood out amongst Tudor’s 2023 line-up. One is the Black Bay 54, a watch clearly conceived by aficionados with an eye for detail. Just 37 mm in diameter, it resembles a vinta...

Read article
SJX W&W; Highlights – Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – Independent Watchmaking

As is often the case when the wider industry is doing well, independent watchmaking is on fire. This was illustrated by the numerous and diverse exhibitors, many of them brand-new entrants, showing their wares alongside Watches & Wonders in Geneva. But as is often the case when independent watchmaking is on fire, quantity far exceeded quality, and the good and great were rare. Not wanting to go up against brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe for eyeballs (and also because most independent marques now enjoy long, long waitlists), many watchmakers didn’t launch anything new. Some talented watchmakers are merely making slow but steady progress, like Yosuke Sekiguchi, the Japanese watchmaker based in Switzerland who presented the final version of his Primevère along with new dial variants for the same. One of the best new launches is not really a new model, but it’s good enough it deserves a top spot on the list. The F.P. Journe FFC is the regular production version of the unique FFC Blue made for charity auction Only Watch in 2021. Indicating the time with a five-fingered hand, the time display is simple but driven by a clever and complex movement, illustrating the brilliance of its creator. Granted it costs CHF820,000 before taxes, which is probably too much even considering the complication. But according to Mr Journe, the movement is complex enough that it can only be assembled and adjusted by a watchmaker who is otherwise working on the Astronomic grand complication....

Read article