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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 Aug 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention

The dive watch genre is rife with great watches, and many stick to a tried and true formula that was first devised in the early ‘50s with the advent of recreational diving. It’s evolved a bit over the generations, but what made for a great dive watch then, largely still makes for a great dive watch today. Their broad popularity stretches far beyond the bounds of the actual diving community, as the features that make a great dive watch also happen to make them great everyday companions for those that prefer life on dry land. But that doesn’t mean they all have to abide by the same set of rules.  In this Inside the Collection episode, I take a look at 3 dive watches that march to the beat of their own drum in some way, shape, or form, and eschew the established design codes of the genre. You’re probably familiar with one or two of these watches, as we’ve discussed two of them at length before (here, and here), but all three come together to say something important about my own collection, and how I view watches regardless of their label. The Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 seen here will be the subject of an upcoming Missed Review, in which we’ll further explore this era of the famous diver, and some of the ways the collection has diversified itself over the generation. This is watch that’s always found it’s own path, for better or worse, and not only does this specific reference represent something special within the collection, it represents somet...

The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Aug 18, 2023

The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink

While Speake-Marin’s established catalogue has been upheaved in the last couple of years with their integrated-bracelet Ripples watches, their boutique and nuanced past is still being captured with select models like the Academic Black Tie using their Piccadilly case. With the Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink, technical sportiness gets merged with both tradition and vibrant whimsy … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Dual Time Pink is Pantone-clad in pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new Aug 17, 2023

The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry

This new Grand Seiko 44GS steel Spring Drive trio uses katana artistry as a muse for their dials The SBGA489 and SBGA491 introduce a new dial texture inspired by Japanese tamahagane steel The SBGA493, a limited edition of 500 pieces, has a fiery red dial that encapsulates the emanating sparks from the forging of a … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko Katana Collection debuts new dial textures inspired by katana artistry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

9 Dungeons & Dragons races and the watches they’d wear Time+Tide
Aug 17, 2023

9 Dungeons & Dragons races and the watches they’d wear

The popularity of Dungeons & Dragons is at an all-time high, since nerd culture became pop culture and TV shows like Stranger Things boosted sales of D&D; starter kits by 250%. If you read my list about watches for goths, I’m sure you wouldn’t be surprised to hear I’m a long-term D&D; fan, and there … ContinuedThe post 9 Dungeons & Dragons races and the watches they’d wear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The best kinds of watches you should buy for a 21st birthday Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2023

The best kinds of watches you should buy for a 21st birthday

You may have a general idea of the watches a list like this would include. Of course, going for timeless and classic designs is going to be a solid option for any 21st birthday present, especially if it’s robust enough to survive most people’s wildest decade and keep those memories throughout their life. There are … ContinuedThe post The best kinds of watches you should buy for a 21st birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph Aug 14, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo

When it comes to big watch fairs like Watches & Wonders Geneva, it’s often the brands that aren’t officially exhibiting at the show that have some of the most exciting releases. Step out of the frenetic hive of activity that is Palexpo and go exploring Geneva’s streets, hotels and bars and you’ll find all manner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Aug 12, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph

Watches & Wonders 2023 feels like a lifetime ago, but certain releases have stuck with us. Chopard’s L.U.C collection continues to impress with every release, and they doubled down on proving their worth at Watches & Wonders by unveiling both a reissue and a new design. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 returns to the collection’s 1997 … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2023

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva uses vintage inspiration for a versatile package. It serves as a reminder that Hanhart aren’t a one-flieger pony. With black or white dials available, the Pioneer Silva neatly balances different eras for a timeless look. Hanhart have had their fair share of the limelight in the past few years, mainly thanks … ContinuedThe post The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2023

The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature

Smokey Bear became established as a quintessential figure for all Americans towards the end of World War II. The character was created in 1944 to help prevent forest fires, and his role today might be even more relevant due to the continuing rise in global temperatures and  devastating wildfires. Smokey Bear’s mission, therefore, transcends borders … ContinuedThe post The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new rainbow Blancpain Ladybird Colors offer a playful sense of glamour with a 100-hour power reserve Time+Tide
Blancpain Ladybird Colors offer Aug 10, 2023

The new rainbow Blancpain Ladybird Colors offer a playful sense of glamour with a 100-hour power reserve

The Blancpain Ladybird Colors collection has been expanded with this rainbow gradient reference. It comes with five colours of alligator leather straps, so you can tone the playfulness up or down depending on your mood. The case is made from 18k white gold, and is set with 59 diamonds. When Blancpain released the Ladybird in … ContinuedThe post The new rainbow Blancpain Ladybird Colors offer a playful sense of glamour with a 100-hour power reserve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years of the Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver with a New Huckberry Collaborative Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years Aug 9, 2023

Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years of the Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver with a New Huckberry Collaborative Limited Edition

Our friends at Huckberry have partnered with Zodiac for their second collaborative limited edition, an homage to the original version of the Sea Wolf from 1953 with subtle bronze accents. This year marks the 70th anniversary of the iconic Zodiac skin diver platform, and the easy to wear dive watch arguably makes more sense today than it ever has. A skin diver, by definition, is a little lighter, smaller, and more casual than a full throated “pro” dive watch, while still being more than robust enough for day to day wear, including any number of water based activities. And as Zodiac has proven over and over again, their simple and straightforward design is a fantastic blank canvas for collaborators, with the Sea Wolf easily taking on any number of personalities and characteristics as colors shift and change. The new limited edition made with Huckberry is suitably vintage inspired, with the bronze adding an additional layer of refinement.  The new Super Sea Wolf Bronze is a bit of a fakeout in that it’s not a full bronze watch, but keeps the bronze content limited to the rotating dive bezel and crown. This is a smart choice, giving the watch a subtle two-tone appearance and dressing it up just a tad from its tool watch roots. Bronze, of course, is known to patina quite heavily and in a very particular way, so we’d expect the bezel to take on a weathered look as this is used. According to Huckberry, the application of bronze here was inspired by early diving helmets, ...

The new Swatch Bioceramic What If? collection reimagines their round 1983 debut as square Time+Tide
Swatch Aug 9, 2023

The new Swatch Bioceramic What If? collection reimagines their round 1983 debut as square

The new Swatch Bioceramic What If? collection imagines their 1983 debut was square instead of round. It merges ‘80s style with modern eco-friendly materials such as bioceramic. Four watches are available in green, black, grey and beige. The exploration of alternate and parallel universes has definitely become one of the most interesting pop culture trends … ContinuedThe post The new Swatch Bioceramic What If? collection reimagines their round 1983 debut as square appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower Time+Tide
Seiko SJE095 takes Aug 8, 2023

The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower

The King Seiko SJE095 highlights a chrysanthemum pattern as Japan’s national flower. The case is based on the original King Seiko from 1965 with an even thinner profile. It’s a limited edition of 600 pieces and will be available from October 2023. Although its return to market focused mainly on recreating vintage models, King Seiko … ContinuedThe post The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Alterum is a dive-ready GMT in lightweight titanium Time+Tide
Aug 7, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Alterum is a dive-ready GMT in lightweight titanium

After two years of waiting, fans of the Arken Instrumentum have finally received a followup from the microbrand. At the time, it was one of the best-specced titanium divers around for the money, and the new Arken Alterum has a lot to live up to. Now that titanium has become a lot more prevalent in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Alterum is a dive-ready GMT in lightweight titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Longines Museum is on fire! Which three watches should be saved? Time+Tide
Longines Museum Aug 7, 2023

The Longines Museum is on fire! Which three watches should be saved?

The Longines museum in St-Imier showcases the brand’s illustrious history in the form of 500 timepieces, navigational instruments and timekeeping devices. Unfortunately, in this luckily fictitious scenario, the museum is on fire! Daniel Hug, Longines Head of Brand Heritage, can only save three watches before the whole place goes up in smoke. “Oh my God!” … ContinuedThe post The Longines Museum is on fire! Which three watches should be saved? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual lacquer dials continue to attract an A-list crowd – a definitive list Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual lacquer dials Aug 6, 2023

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual lacquer dials continue to attract an A-list crowd – a definitive list

Unobtanium. It is a word many collectors use these days, with more and more references fitting this gloomy bill. It sucks to know that when certain brands release new watches, your chances of getting one at retail are quite slim, short of a long buyer’s history or a big dose of luck. So the question … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual lacquer dials continue to attract an A-list crowd – a definitive list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 3: The Seiko House Ginza (Wako Main Building) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 3 Aug 6, 2023

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 3: The Seiko House Ginza (Wako Main Building)

So. I have detailed the first stop of my trip to Japan with Grand Seiko at the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi – the home of all things 9S mechanical. Then we returned back to Ginza from Morioka, and swung by the Seiko Museum Ginza to get intimate with the history of the corporation and the … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 3: The Seiko House Ginza (Wako Main Building) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHAT IF… Casio made the gold G-Shock a (more) regular thing? Time+Tide
Casio made Aug 5, 2023

WHAT IF… Casio made the gold G-Shock a (more) regular thing?

The WHAT IF…? idea is a versatile one, concerned with wishful thinking, hopes of market-changing releases, and nostalgic pleas. Sometimes, however, it might as well be called WHY NOT…?, and this is the case today. In a recent writers’ meeting, there was discussion of G-Shock, and more particularly the proposition of a solid gold one, … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… Casio made the gold G-Shock a (more) regular thing? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Nomos Gets Aug 4, 2023

The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors

Any watch enthusiast who has been around the corner once or twice has no doubt discovered Nomos, Germany’s worst-kept secret in distinctive design and excellent quality and finishing for its price. Nomos’ unapologetically Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic may not be for everyone, but it’s easy to admire how far this Glashütte-based watchmaker has come in just over three decades. Today we look at the Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38, a watch that is new inside and out. The Ahoi is the sportiest line in the catalog, which admittedly isn’t saying much. But it does have crown guards and 200m of water resistance, considered by Nomos as “suitable for diving.” To that end, the winding stem features a red ring that is only visible when the crown is unscrewed, a reminder that full water resistance is only guaranteed when the crown is entirely secure. The case is pleasantly thin at 9.9mm thanks to a new movement – more on that in a moment. And the lug-to-lug distance has been reduced to 48.7mm, compared to 51mm on the standard Ahoi. Other nice details include a contrasting orange second hand, double-sided anti-reflective coating on the domed crystal, and a waterproof textile strap suitable for diving. Inside, the new Ahoi is powered by the DUW 6101 for the first time. Developed by Nomos and introduced in 2018 with the Neomatik line, this caliber is both beauty and brains. The rotor and bridges get some love with ribbing polish and perlage, and the movement utilizes Nomos’ re-imagine...

Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni Aug 4, 2023

Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni

The chance to experience the latest 3 day Radiomir from Panerai was too hard to pass up. But how did it hold up, especially comparing it to the 8 Giorni I road-tested a month or so ago? What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticSlim case profile sits flush to the wristTextured dial and aged lumed numerals What We Don’t Thick strap is a little chunkyNo see through caseback3 Day Manual Winding Overall Rating: 8.875/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Back in June, I was able to experience the new Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni that the brand released for Watches and Wonders this year. I was immediately drawn to the distressed look of the eSteel and the blue smoked and textured dial. Check out my review of it here for the full details. So when the opportunity came up to wear the Tre Giorni (three day) version for a couple of weeks, and be able to compare directly to the 8 Days variant, I jumped at the chance. And what better place to photograph a watch with nautical and Navy roots than down by the bay and marina! Seemed fitting to take a naval inspired watch to the marina for some photos First Impressions Now, the differences between the Tre Giorni and the Otto Giorni are not huge, and other than the movement’s power reserve, it’s basically aesthetics. But then the look of a watch is a major factor when it comes to what you choose. It either looks good and resonates with you, or it doesn’t. The first impression of the Tre Giorni is ...

Now In The Shop: Track Multiple Time Zones With New GMT’s From Seiko Worn & Wound
Seiko One Aug 3, 2023

Now In The Shop: Track Multiple Time Zones With New GMT’s From Seiko

One of the most satisfying feelings as a watch enthusiast is setting your watch to a new time zone during travel. What could be better than that? Having a dedicated hand to track another timezone, of course. Watches with GMT functionality are both fun and useful, especially during travel. Of course you can also use the feature to track the other team you work with on the opposite coast, but let’s keep it fun. Today in the shop, we’re happy to bring three new Seiko GMT watches into the mix. The SSK011 and SSK009 are both in the Presage family of watches, while the SFK003 is a fully dive-capable Prospex. Let’s take a closer look. One of the most satisfying feelings as a watch enthusiast is setting your watch to a new time zone during travel. What could be better than that? Having a dedicated hand to track another timezone, of course. Watches with GMT functionality are both fun and useful, especially during travel. Of course you can also use the feature to track the other team you work with on the opposite coast, but let’s keep it fun. Today in the shop, we’re happy to bring three new Seiko GMT watches into the mix. The SSK011 and SSK009 are both in the Presage family of watches, while the SFK003 is a fully dive-capable Prospex. Let’s take a closer look. The post Now In The Shop: Track Multiple Time Zones With New GMT’s From Seiko appeared first on Worn & Wound.

We asked Chat GPT to review the Doxa SUB 300 in the voice of Matthew McConaughey Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner Well Aug 3, 2023

We asked Chat GPT to review the Doxa SUB 300 in the voice of Matthew McConaughey

Once upon a time, when Chat GPT made its debut and artificial intelligence became a point of mainstream discussion, we decided to let former president of the USA Donald Trump take a stab at writing a review of the Rolex Submariner. Well, an artificial intelligence pretending to be Trump that is. We do not have … ContinuedThe post We asked Chat GPT to review the Doxa SUB 300 in the voice of Matthew McConaughey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Review: A Complete Guide to the King of Marine Chronomet Teddy Baldassarre
Ulysse Nardin Aug 2, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Review: A Complete Guide to the King of Marine Chronomet

Since its founding in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has long been regarded as the standard bearer of nautical timekeeping, a historic watchmaking maison whose very name conjures up romantic images of seagoing adventure and oceanic exploration. However, here in the 21st century, Ulysse Nardin is also known in watch connoisseur circles as one of the most technically innovative and boldly experimental watchmakers on the scene, beginning with the bombshell introduction of the Freak in 2001. How did this intriguing brand achieve both these distinctions and how does it continue to pile up accolades in the modern era? Read on for a complete guide to the history, evolution, and diverse timepiece portfolio of today’s Ulysse Nardin. Foundations in Chronometry Like many inhabitants of Switzerland’s Jura Mountain region in the 18th and 19th centuries, Léonard-Frédéric Nardin took up the trade of watchmaking largely out of economic necessity, to supplement his family’s farming income during the cold, snowbound winter months. He passed that horological savoir faire on to his son, Ulysse, who proved to be an apt pupil and honed his own horological skills further under the tutelage of two of the region’s most talented and revered watchmakers, Frederic-William Dubois and Louis JeanRichard-dit-Bressel. In 1846, at the young age of 23, Ulysse Nardin (above) established his own watchmaking workshop in his hometown of Le Locle, where the eponymous company is still headquartered today. Ulysse ...

Only Watch out – EveryWatch is the new piece unique auction in town Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2023

Only Watch out – EveryWatch is the new piece unique auction in town

First of all I’d like to apologise for the punny title – it was simply too tempting. Slated to take place from August 16-23, the EveryWatch charity auction is a collaborative effort between Edinburgh’s Lyon & Turnbull auction house, fellow enthusiasts over at Scottish Watches, and nine independent brands whose great generosity is set to … ContinuedThe post Only Watch out – EveryWatch is the new piece unique auction in town appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa Time+Tide
Raketa Jul 31, 2023

From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa

Despite what some marketing departments would have you think, there’s almost never such a thing as a centuries-old watch brand with an unbroken history. Whether it’s a change of ownership, bankruptcy during the Quartz Crisis, or a pivot to an entirely different technology, consistent survival as a watch brand requires adaptation. Raketa don’t come up … ContinuedThe post From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ball Roadmaster First Responder shows that mechanical watches can even save lives Time+Tide
Jul 31, 2023

The Ball Roadmaster First Responder shows that mechanical watches can even save lives

The Ball Roadmaster First Responder is designed to save lives on the wrists of paramedics and first responders. The inner bezel can be turned by twisting the outer bezel, reducing the need to fiddle with other timing devices. The scales on the chapter ring allow for calculating pulse and breaths per minute. Demanding situations call … ContinuedThe post The Ball Roadmaster First Responder shows that mechanical watches can even save lives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback Time+Tide
Jul 30, 2023

Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback

It wasn’t so long ago that exhibition casebacks were reserved for either exquisite pieces of high horology or oddities like the Ernest Borel kaleidoscope watches. Mechanical watchmaking was either the norm or old-fashioned, so the only times people wanted to stare at a mechanical movement was when it had something special to show off. It’s … ContinuedThe post Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baume & Mercier updates the Riviera Chronograph with warm, two-tone hues Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Jul 28, 2023

Baume & Mercier updates the Riviera Chronograph with warm, two-tone hues

Continuing their Riviera-focused Watches & Wonders 2023 form, Baume & Mercier has revealed yet another update to their sporty integrated bracelet watch. While the year’s biggest watch fair saw two new Riviera releases celebrating the model’s 50-year anniversary, this mid-year update zeroes in on bringing a popular colourway to the Valjoux-equipped Baume & Mercier Riviera … ContinuedThe post Baume & Mercier updates the Riviera Chronograph with warm, two-tone hues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.