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Fratello On Air: Predicting The Fortunes Of Four Brands In Five Years Fratello
Oct 14, 2025

Fratello On Air: Predicting The Fortunes Of Four Brands In Five Years

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we try our hand at predicting the fortunes of four key watch brands. These makers all have great pieces in their lineups, yet we wonder if they have more in store to become absolute powerhouses. Or perhaps some of these companies will go in the […] Visit Fratello On Air: Predicting The Fortunes Of Four Brands In Five Years to read the full article.

Rolex 5513 Submariner Review: The Timeless Vintage Rolex? Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 11, 2025

Rolex 5513 Submariner Review: The Timeless Vintage Rolex?

In the world of Rolex, most people’s minds go straight to rarity, unattainability, and exclusivity. And in so many cases that rings true – except (and you may find this hard to believe) for the Submariner. That’s right, Rolex’s stalwart and most ubiquitous watch is also, kind of, its most accessible on the secondary market… and I am talking vintage and neovintage here. Sure, there are rare examples like Explorer dials (we will get to that in a bit), and early ref. 1680 Red Submariners that fetch a pretty penny at auction or from a vintage dealer. But there’s a very real reason for that. Those watches in particular fall into a bucket shared by many collectible rarities: They were only produced for a very short period of time. But there were many variations of vintage Subs, some rarer than others. And some still that weren’t rare at all. And the best example of that is the Rolex 5513, a Submariner model so common that it was one of Rolex’s most popular and best selling over the course of its – wait for it – 17-year run. Rolex 5513 History The Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 was in production from 1962 until 1989, and while there are some pockets of special ref. 5513 models within that run, it is for the most part of one the brand’s longest-selling and most-produced Submariners, or even sports watches full stop (the Explorer ref. 1016 has entered the chat). In 1962, Rolex had been producing its Submariner reference 5512 for about three years. The 5512 was a n...

eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Hamilton, Grand Seiko, Omega, and More! Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Omega Oct 10, 2025

eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Hamilton, Grand Seiko, Omega, and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Hamilton 14k Gold Watch First up this week is a classic and stylish vintage 1971 Hamilton dress watch in 14k yellow gold. The 33.5mm solid gold case is unpolished, with crisp edges. The caseback is engraved with a 25 year service award inscription from Eaton. The dial is clean and simple, with a nice sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The original crown is signed with the Hamilton logo. The watch comes with the original Hamilton signed lizard strap, and it all comes in the original box with papers! The case is a front loading type, so no movement pictures, but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Vintage 1950s Benrus  Here we have another small dress watch, but this one is gold filled and a little more ‘sporty’. This vintage Benrus 3 Star has a cool dial, with alternating Arabic numerals and thin arrows for hour markers, coupled with lume filled hands. The 33mm yellow gold filled case looks sharp, and has a steel screw in back. There is no movement picture, but the seller states the watch runs well. Nice little every day type of watch from an under-rated brand that should fit into any watch budget. View auction here Omega Constellation  Next up is a whopp...

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch Oct 6, 2025

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey

Louis Vuitton returns to its watchmaking roots with a recreation of its first-ever wristwatch, the Monterey. The remake sticks closely to the aesthetics of the original designed by architect Gae Aulenti in 1988, but is made to modern standards. While the original was a design-oriented creation with a high-tech (for the time) quartz movement, today’s Monterey is high-end in every way – case, dial, and movement are all contemporary high horology. Initial Thoughts The Monterey is an unapologetically nostalgic watch, and a yardstick against which Louis Vuitton measures its progress. In 1988, the Parisian malletier made its first foray into the watch market with Montre I, a private label affair produced by IWC and designed by Gae Aulenti. The 1988 watch was an impressive in terms of design and concept, but somewhat dinky in terms of tech: a multifunction quartz watch in gold powered by an IWC quartz movement that is no longer reparable. (It is also worth nothing that follow-up Montre II was clad in ceramic, possibly hinting at a sequel to this limited edition.) Now, Louis Vuitton wants the world to know it can make make a watch itself, only relying on external suppliers for the very most specialised components – and to a much higher standard than the Montre of the past. And the Monterey (a play on the American mispronunciation of montre, French for watch) completely eclipses the original in quality – much like the recent revival of Daniel Roth by Louis Vuitton. The Mont...

Behind the DIN 8330 Standard for Pilot’s Watches Worn & Wound
Sinn lead Oct 3, 2025

Behind the DIN 8330 Standard for Pilot’s Watches

Standards and certifications in watchmaking were primarily developed for chronometry, as well as to reassure the buyer that their watch had been thoroughly tested to a certain level of accuracy. The standards we see most often in the technical specifications are COSC, METAS, and other company or regional chronometry certifications. In modern watchmaking, other key standards like the ISO 6425 dive watch standard, which was developed in the 1990s and followed by watch companies, also come into play. These standards were largely based on various military set standards for watches; however, since each military set their own requirements, there was not one universally followed standard. The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) published specific requirements and testing procedures for a watch to be officially designated a “Diver’s watch”. While there is no ISO standard for pilot’s watches, there are specific requirements set by militaries around the world. One of the most well-known standards is from the WWII German pilot’s watch known as the “Beobachtungsuhren” or “B-Uhren.” B-Uhren pilot’s watch standards are well documented and are still followed by many watch companies to this day. In March 2012, Sinn lead an initiative in collaboration with the Faculty of Aerospace Technology at the Aachen University of Applied Sciences to create TESTAF – Technical Standard for Pilot Watches. TESTAF was developed so that a pilot’s watch meets all mod...

Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign Fratello
Hamilton Puts Oct 3, 2025

Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign

I do not embark on nearly as many adventures as I would love to. As much as I like to tell myself it’s due to a lack of time, I know that’s not true, and the watch on my wrist is an excellent reminder that I need to go out more. Most of us wear […] Visit Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign to read the full article.

The New Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Is Less More? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin Oct 3, 2025

The New Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Is Less More? (Hands-On)

In a roster packed to the rafters with hype-laden icons, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is deceptively simple. Or is it too simple? Let’s find out! What We Love: Simplistic, no-nonsense design and colour Solid, unobtrusive wearability A true GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) watch What We Don’t: Overshadowed by other Rolex models Lacks modern quality-of-life updates Date or no date? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Consistency is a hard thing to come by in the watch industry. Very few brands have managed to achieve it, and even fewer watches can truly be called consistent hits. Off the top of my head, I can probably name only a handful of brands and models that have managed to not only succeed but hold that sweet spot. Longines, Vacheron Constantin, and even Panerai all come to mind — but if you want to talk about longevity, you have to talk about the Crown. Since their founding in 1905, Rolex has been one of the most consistent brands in history. The numbers speak for themselves: the company has held the number one spot for revenue in the luxury Swiss watch industry since at least 2017, according to the Morgan Stanley LuxeConsult reports. But the evidence also lies in their catalogue. Much of Rolex’s mainline collection has become inseparable from the brand’s identity, thanks to timeless, slow-changing designs, robust functionality, and uncompromising craftsmanship. Their watches have changed so little...

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 1, 2025

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity?

The beginning of October is the official marker of the beginning of spooky season, at least in my opinion. In the spirit of Halloween inching closer and closer on our calendars, I thought it would be fun to take a deep dive into a watch that really channels the energy of the season, at least as far as nicknames go – the Seiko Monster. And, to lean even further into the fanfare, I’ll be focusing solely on the most Halloween-appropriate colorways of the Seiko Monster universe – that’s right, it's the bright, pumpkin-y Seiko Orange Monster from here on out. Below, I’ll be walking you through a little history lesson for context, breaking down the various generations of Seiko’s Monster diver, ultimately to help you determine for yourself if this watch is an unlikely icon or a horological monstrosity.  Seiko Monster Context First things first – the “Monster” moniker is a nickname for this line of divers that the enthusiast community came up with itself, and the brand has yet to embrace it officially. The early 2000s, at large, is representative of something of an identity crisis for the watch world, as the necessity of wristwatches as a time-keeping tool waned. Each brand has its own approach, but when I think of the early 2000s for watches, chunky, bold, imaginative, and somewhat overbuilt pieces are the first things that come to mind, especially on the heels of the relatively conservative watch designs of the 1990s. Ultimately, the origin story of the Seiko ...

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin just unveiled Oct 1, 2025

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time

On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Introducing – The New Ochs und Junior Day/Night Holiday Edition 2025 Monochrome
Sep 30, 2025

Introducing – The New Ochs und Junior Day/Night Holiday Edition 2025

Ochs und Junior, the independent brand founded in 2006 around the inventive genius of Dr Ludwig Oechslin, has built its reputation on watches that present complex astronomical or calendar displays in radically simple, functional designs. Models such as the perpetual calendar, annual calendar, and moon phase are already cult favourites among collectors who appreciate mechanical […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Master Control Calendar Sep 30, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone

Jaeger-LeCoultre has just introduced the Master Control Calendar Limited Edition, the latest addition to a long line of triple calendar watches going back decades. Packaged in the 40 mm Master Control case we’ve become familiar with, this new 500-piece stainless steel limited edition is all about the dial, which features a richly textured silver and grey livery on a “sector” layout. Despite the classical aesthetic, the Master Control Date is thoroughly modern on the inside with the cal. 866 featuring a silicon escapement that supports a 70-hour power reserve. Initial thoughts The triple calendar moon phase has long been a staple of the Jaeger-LeCoultre line-up; Pablo Picasso famously wore one. Add to this lineage the brand’s unique jumping date pointer, which jumps in a wide arc from the 15th to the 16th of the month to avoid confounding the moon phase display, and the result is a watch that manages to be both charming and technically distinctive. It’s also easily wearable in a 40 mm case, that, while larger than the vintage originals, gives the indicators on the dial plenty of space to breathe. Of course, the movement is the cal. 866, effectively a cal. 899 with a triple calendar module, which helps keeps the overall package quite sleek at 10.95 mm – on par with many simple time-and-date watches in this category. Upgraded a few years ago with a silicon escapement, the movement now runs for 70 hours when fully wound, adding convenience to wearability. Naturall...

Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert! Time+Tide
Sep 29, 2025

Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert!

Andrew welcomes Bollywood actress, model, environmentalist, and Indian superstar Esha Gupta to the Time+Tide London Watch Discovery Studio, where they dive into the worlds of cinema and watches with passion and insight. Their conversation reveals Esha’s love for watches, which she views as expressions of personality and storytelling, rather than mere status symbols. Andrew showcases … ContinuedThe post Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On With The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Jump Hour Double Phoenix Fratello
Sep 28, 2025

Hands-On With The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Jump Hour Double Phoenix

In June of this year, I had a chance to go hands-on with the stunning Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection. It displayed an incredible level of Chinese craftsmanship that I adore. For another hands-on experience, the brand sent us a jump-hour version of its Century Cloisonné Double Phoenix model. While the basics are similar […] Visit Hands-On With The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Jump Hour Double Phoenix to read the full article.

First Look – The New Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Shines in Aventurine Monochrome
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Sh... Sep 26, 2025

First Look – The New Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Shines in Aventurine

Over the past two decades, the PanoMaticLunar has established itself as one of Glashütte Original’s most recognisable models. Its off-centred time display, Panorama Date, and moon-phase complication have become defining features of the collection, embodying the Saxon approach to precision, order, and poetry. Along the way, the PanoMaticLunar has experimented with colour, moving from the […]

First Look – MING Says Goodbye to its Moonphase Watch with the Final 37.05 Lunatic Edition Monochrome
Ming Sep 24, 2025

First Look – MING Says Goodbye to its Moonphase Watch with the Final 37.05 Lunatic Edition

Frustrated by not finding a watch he liked at a price he could afford, multi-talented founder Ming Thein decided to create his own brand. Based in Kuala Lumpur, the design-led indie brand has a distinctive and recognisable aesthetic built on contemporary design, where minimalism, luminescence, layering and colour are key players. Ever-evolving, Ming’s discontinuation of its […]

Owner’s Review: a Collector’s Perspective on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Worn & Wound
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sep 23, 2025

Owner’s Review: a Collector’s Perspective on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic first debuted at Baselworld 2017, and I remember every journalist I ran into, telling me to go check out the Bulgari booth. I met with Pascal Brandt (then marketing manager), and a genuine watch geek I had known for some time. He showed me Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium, and it was a “Wow” moment. I felt like I was holding a future classic in my hands, comparable to someone holding the Royal Oak for the first time in Basel in 1972 (and yes, there is a Genta connection). I had a couple of initial thoughts when I first experienced the Octo – I knew Bulgari had already made two of the slimmest complication Octo Finissimo’s in 2015 and 2016, but I chalked that to a fashion brand making a high complication for their wealthiest clients. But this was different, Bulgari managed to pull off the slimmest automatic watch that is lightweight, yet durable, with a micro-rotor movement for about $12,000. The second thought was that this is something special and, for me, a must own piece. Before I get into the ownership aspect of the Octo, I will give a brief history on how Bulgari got elevated to a serious watchmaking brand. The story of Bulgari’s transformation from a luxury fashion brand to a high-end watchmaker began in the year 2000. The watch industry was struggling after the late 1990’s financial crisis. In July 2000, Bulgari paid 37.6 million Swiss francs to acquire Gerald Genta SA, Daniel Roth SA, as well as Manufacture de Ha...

Five Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection Fratello
Omega Speedmasters Worthy Sep 23, 2025

Five Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is truly one of the few iconic watch designs from the 20th century. Indeed, it may be one of the most recognizable designs in all of horology. Some of us, however, are fans from afar. We appreciate the Omega Speedmaster, but our eyes go elsewhere. For those enthusiasts after something with […] Visit Five Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection to read the full article.

Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs Fratello
Sep 22, 2025

Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs

Many modern chronographs strive to strike a balance between vintage appeal and modern build quality. Few of those efforts result in a package as appealing as the Hanhart 415 ES Panda chronographs. These models revisit a 1960s design while delivering features expected in a contemporary tool watch. I had the chance to go hands-on with […] Visit Hands-On With Two Handsome Hanhart 415 ES Panda Chronographs to read the full article.

Grand Seiko After Dark, “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko After Dark “Moonlit Birch” Sep 22, 2025

Grand Seiko After Dark, “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007

Grand Seiko has been fairly quiet over the summer, but has just unveiled the latest addition to its Evolution 9 collection, the “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007. Effectively a new variant of the “Birch Bark” SLGW003 with a steel case and navy blue dial, the Moonlit Birch is a competent alternative to its titanium stablemate. In other words, it’s an attractive new livery for what was already a compelling watch, and retains its best characteristics including a nuanced and ergonomic case, gorgeous dial furniture, and the brand’s latest manually wound cal. 9SA4 movement. Initial thoughts The original “Birch Bark” launched last year and was one of the standout releases at Watches & Wonders due to its elegant case profile and impressive new movement. The Moonlit Birch is identical in most respects, but the case is stainless steel, rather than titanium, and the dial is finished in navy blue instead of bright white. Despite these modest differences, the Moonlit Birch is appealing in its own right. The dial texture is subtle, but it’s enough of a Grand Seiko calling card to prevent the watch from looking too generic; a common trap for time-only dress watches. The stainless steel case exhibits the brand’s Evolution 9 styling, which gives the Moonlit Birch a bold, angular presence. In answer to the demand for slimmer options from Grand Seiko, the dimensions are nearly ideal, 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm thick. The watch is powered by the cal. 9SA4, which is pa...

After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking Sep 20, 2025

After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps

If asked which was more impressive, it would be hard for me to choose between the La Quête du Temps clock unveiled at the Louvre in Paris or the staff of Vacheron Constantin putting on a surprising show of music and dance in the Genevan manufacture the next day. “VC” started its celebration of 270 […] Visit After 270 Years, Vacheron Constantin Reaches Beyond Watchmaking With La Quête Du Temps to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Goes Gold SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Goes Gold Grand Seiko Sep 19, 2025

Grand Seiko Goes Gold

Grand Seiko has unveils three gold Spring Drive models with the new 9RA2 movement, the Japan-only Heritage Collection SLGA030, SLGA027 and SLGA028, in rose, white, and yellow gold respectively. The new collection benefits from a slimmer case, a longer power reserve, and some new dials to go with the satisfying heft of a full 18k gold bracelet that weighs in at almost 200 g. SLGA030 in rose gold. Initial Thoughts While mostly unknown outside Japan, a trio of gold Spring Drive models in 44GS-style cases on full gold bracelets were a staple of the domestic Grand Seiko catalog for nearly a decade, powered by the cal. 9R15 that was once the brand’s finest automatic Spring Drive movement. While identical to the cal. 9R65, save for a gold medallion on the rotor, Seiko set aside the best performing quartz timing packages for these special movements. The earlier generation of all-gold models, from left to right: SBGA364, SBGA361, and SBGA362. Grand Seiko has decided that now is the time to refresh the line with the upgraded cal. 9RA2, while preserving the heavyweight gravitas and luxurious bracelet of its predecessor. I have anticipated these watches since the second generation of Spring Drive movements launched in 2020; it took five years, but the result meets my expectations, though I would have liked a gold winding weight to match the case material. Selling watches on full precious metal bracelets in this segment is a mark of a strong brand. Gold prices and luxury margins bein...