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Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement

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Casio AQ-230 Review: The Minimalist Ana-Digi Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Sep 17, 2025

Casio AQ-230 Review: The Minimalist Ana-Digi Watch

When you think of Casio watches, one inevitably goes to digital classics like the F-91W, A168, AE-1200, or the G-Shock line. The Casio AQ-230 is the odd exception, in that it’s almost a minimalist dress watch intended to slip under a cuff. It’s also been around for over 30 years now, so it has to be doing something right.The Casio AQ-230 is the quintessential under-the-radar piece that doesn’t shout "digital watch" too loudly. The cleanly minimal, ana-digi design is thoughtful in ways that I appreciate but are subtle. For example, the analog hands never touch the digital LCD screen. The AQ-230 was released all the way back in 1995 as a follow-up to the old Casio Janus AQ-200 from 1982. The design was almost completely unchanged, other than the addition of another pusher on the left side of the case and a slimmer case width. Naturally, the AQ-230 stands out from other Casio watches due to its slightly “dressier” appearance and aesthetic. I have heard some people say it’s Casio's version of the Cartier Tank - which sounds a little outlandish but kind of checks out once you think about it. Casio AQ-230 Case and Bracelet This is a quintessentially unisex case size, coming in at 29.8mm wide, 8.1mm thick, and 38.8mm tall (with 30 meters of water resistance). This may sound a little small and, honestly, it is. But that’s not a bad thing, especially considering the rectangular case shape. The Cartier Tank Louis in the large case size measures 27.8mm wide and 38.1mm...

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The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking Worn & Wound
Tissot Sep 17, 2025

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking

Stone dials, as we’re all aware, have been having a moment over these last couple of years. Time, I suppose, will tell if the prevalence of stone dials across more affordable price ranges is a trend, or just a new part of the watch landscape that we’ll all just accept and live with, like green dials, or carbon cases. With the renewed popularity of this inherently 1970s/80s inspired design cue, it was really only a matter of time before we saw the return of a watch that takes the use of stone to a different level entirely. The Tissot Rock Watch, an artifact of the 1980s if ever there was one, is back, albeit in a limited edition that might be tough to acquire depending on your geography (more on that in a bit).  First, a little background on the Rock Watch. Launched in 1985, Tissot claims that the Rock Watch was the first ever watch with a case and dial made entirely from granite procured from the Swiss Alps. I’ll admit here that I haven’t done a ton of scholarly research on the topic, but I’m willing to take Tissot at face value here simply because granite is a particularly difficult material to work with, requiring highly specific machines and tooling. It’s a watch that doesn’t make a ton of practical sense from a production standpoint, but naturally was quite popular in the mid 80s and eventually spawned an entire collection for Tissot that featured a huge variety of exotic stones. Original Rock Watches from the 1980s The new version of the Rock Watch rema...

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Elegant Watches Are On The Rise, And It’s About Time Fratello
Sep 17, 2025

Elegant Watches Are On The Rise, And It’s About Time

Let me make one thing clear: when I say that elegant watches are on the rise, I’m not referring to timepieces designed under the rule of restrained minimalism. Elegance doesn’t have to be quiet and introverted. Au contraire, swooping shapes, curvy lines, and delicate patterns are often outspoken, but the tone of voice prevents them […] Visit Elegant Watches Are On The Rise, And It’s About Time to read the full article.

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Introducing – Awake Unveils 5 new Colours in the Son Mai Silver Leaf Vignette Collection Monochrome
Sep 16, 2025

Introducing – Awake Unveils 5 new Colours in the Son Mai Silver Leaf Vignette Collection

Founded in 2019, French indie brand Awake was created with the idea to raise awareness of our planet’s limited resources. Initial releases were based on a rather unique perspective, such as the brand’s “Mission to Earth” space-themed watches, which featured an NFC chip allowing owners access to exclusive views of our planet from the International […]

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Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT Fratello
Sep 16, 2025

Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT

It’s been only a few weeks since I reviewed the Traska Commuter 38. It left a lasting impression because it is a great daily wearer - let me rephrase that: it is the best affordable daily wearer I have worn recently. It proved to be a great go-to pick among other, far more expensive watches […] Visit Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT to read the full article.

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SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Sep 16, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days

On episode 10 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the highlights and hands-on impressions from Geneva Watch Days, including the Greubel Forsey QP Balancier, Lange 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel, Gérald Genta’s new Minute Repeater, and the latest perpetual calendars from Audemars Piguet. We also discuss the significance of Tag Heuer’s carbon hairsprings; after a short-lived launch in 2019, the brand has taken a mulligan and relaunched this technology with a key difference that might make carbon hairsprings a real alternative to silicon. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 15, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel

The most recent launch from A. Lange & Söhne was surprising, even while being familiar. The 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel is, well, an 1815 Tourbillon with a black enamel dial. Nothing about the watch is unexpected, since all the elements have been employed elsewhere. But the watch is outstanding in quality, as is expected for a Lange, and strikingly and usually beautiful. Moreover, it is priced reasonably well, as such things go. Initial thoughts Cosmetic variations of an existing model are rarely great, but the new 1815 Tourbillon manages to be that. The original 1815 Tourbillon was fundamentally a good watch – well made and  functionally designed – but a little plain. The latest variation is outstanding. It’s just as well made, but the black enamel dial adds oomph. No risks were taken with the aesthetics; it is exactly the same in terms of design, but now in glossy black enamel. The tourbillon also hacks and includes a zero-reset seconds Perhaps most unexpected is the price. Many recent Lange releases often felt too expensive, this breaks the habit. At just under US$220,000, the 1815 Tourbillon is priced fairly, maybe even competitively, in its segment. In this respect, the 1815 Tourbillon reminds me of the Tribute to Celestial, an equally surprisingly well priced watch by Lange’s sister company Vacheron Constantin. And for the lucky, lucky few, Lange bestowed a baguette diamond bezel on a handful of these tourbillons, which raises the price by only about US$7...

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Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection Fratello
Trilobe Sep 14, 2025

Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection

Trilobe is a brand we’ve featured on Fratello before, and I was fortunate to go hands-on with the collection last April at Watches and Wonders. The Parisian brand specializes in watches with a distinctive time-telling display. A series of rotating discs shows hours, minutes, and seconds. It’s a wonderfully straightforward concept that now achieves a […] Visit Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection to read the full article.

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Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 12, 2025

Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing

Many factors go into the purchase of a new watch -  from pricing to colorway to the choice of movement and materials - but perhaps none are more make-or-break for most consumers than sizing. Watches, of course, being three-dimensional objects, there are multiple areas of measurement to consider, though most watch brands tend to narrow it down to the two most basic: the diameter (or in the case of non-round watches, the dimensions) of the main case and the case’s overall thickness, i.e. how high it will rise on the wrist. However, neither of these accounts fully for how large or small the watch will wear on the wrist. For that, you will need the lug-to-lug measurement, sometimes referred to more simply as the “length,” with the diameter deemed in shorthand as the “width.” The lugs, sometimes called “horns,” are the protruding parts of the case that connect it to the bracelet or strap. The distance from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom lugs is perhaps the most important factor that affects not only how large the watch “wears” on the wrist but also how comfortable it is. (This measurement should not be confused with another occasionally listed stat, the “lug width.” The latter, which is perhaps most useful for those looking to swap out other straps or bracelets on their watch, refers to the distance between the lugs on each side of the case, i.e., the span in which the strap or bracelet fits inside them. If a watch has a lug width of...

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[VIDEO] Recapping the Paulin Mara Dive Watch Showroom Launch Event with Jason Heaton Worn & Wound
Sep 11, 2025

[VIDEO] Recapping the Paulin Mara Dive Watch Showroom Launch Event with Jason Heaton

Most recently, in our ongoing series of events at the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom, we partnered with Paulin to celebrate the launch of their first dive watch: the Mara. The Scottish brand’s latest release is a rugged, spec-heavy timepiece built for daily adventures and more demanding expeditions. Paulin chose our showroom for its laid-back atmosphere, reputation within the NYC watch community, and its ability to host both hands-on watch time and intimate Q&As;-an opportunity they fully embraced. The evening began with the public unveiling of the Mara, a 300-meter diver in stainless steel measuring 39.7mm across. Its robust case features lugs that angle inward for a distinctive stance, while the playful, geometric hour markers give the dial a unique personality. The Mara comes in blue or black, each paired with a domed sapphire bezel-bright blue for the former, a ghostly grey for the latter. Both drew plenty of admiration from attendees. The room was set with imagery from Scotland’s beaches, Land Rovers, and underwater scenes, complemented by a Bruichladdich whisky tasting station. Guests mingled with Paulin designer Katie Muir and Jason Heaton-diver, journalist, podcaster (The Grey NATO), author (The Tusker Novels), and Explorers Club member-who had field-tested the Mara on Scotland’s rugged shores and starred in the watch’s launch campaign. After plenty of whisky and watch talk, Jason sat down with Worn & Wound’s Head of Partnerships, Kyle Sna...

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Introducing: The Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 - Connecting Earth, Sky, And Sea In A Top-Notch Travel Watch Fratello
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 Sep 10, 2025

Introducing: The Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 - Connecting Earth, Sky, And Sea In A Top-Notch Travel Watch

Breguet is on quite a streak in its 250th year of existence. The fifth release to celebrate the watchmaker is the Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555. This limited edition of 50 pieces debuts in an 18K Breguet Gold case and shows an entirely new two-layer dial. Its two superimposed layers - one guilloché, the other […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 - Connecting Earth, Sky, And Sea In A Top-Notch Travel Watch to read the full article.

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Papar Introduces the Cenote, their First Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Sep 10, 2025

Papar Introduces the Cenote, their First Dive Watch

As the world of dive watches continues to grow, it’s easy to get stylistically complacent. We see similar colors, dial and case design, and construction techniques. So when a dive watch comes along that looks out of the norm, it’s an exciting prospect. Cue the Papar Cenote, a first in the dive category for the upstart brand. Like their first watch, the Anillo GMT, the Cenote is an aesthetic break from the norm that challenges the conventions of the diver category. As a reflection of the brand and its founder Josh Blank’s roots in both the US and Mexico, The Cenote draws visual inspiration and its nomenclature from the cenotes of Mexico’s Yucatán. The octagonal titanium case features sharp angles and a 40mm diameter, and measures in at 47mm lug-to-lug with a 10.9mm thickness. A ceramic bezel insert offers functionality, and a sailcloth strap with a matching titanium buckle adds a final touch of cohesiveness to the design.  The dial, though, holds the Cenote’s coolest feature. The indices appear as cutouts, a crescent moon with end tips pointing up marks the 12 o’clock position, and the hour and minute hands are sharp triangles. The wow factor is more than just cool design, though: the indices change color over the course of the month, giving the Cenote a continuously dynamic appearance.  Two colorways are available for the Cenote, in a limited run of 100 watches. The first option, Rose Gold Titanium, features a starkly appealing combo of rose gold PVD coating...

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De Bethune Shrinks the DB25 Starry Varius SJX Watches
De Bethune Shrinks Sep 8, 2025

De Bethune Shrinks the DB25 Starry Varius

De Bethune narrows the diameter of the bestselling DB25 Starry Varius but broadens its horizons with an entrancing red-leaning-purple dial achieved by heating titanium. And it’s more than just a pretty face, the DB25xs Starry Varius packs one of the most advanced two-hand manual wound calibres on the market. Initial Thoughts A personal favourite of mine, the Starry Varius line is gorgeous, technically adept, and meaningfully customisable. De Bethune justifies this variant as representing the night sky after a volcanic eruption, and colour perfectly matches viral, and hauntingly beautiful, images taken after the Tonga volcano eruption in 2022. As a chronometry-focused movement that paradoxically lacks a seconds hand, I find the cal. DB2005 very interesting. I’d even argue it makes sense as the six-day power reserve paints it as an endurance timekeeper. It’s also more technically interesting than most of the – very finely decorated – three handers from younger independents, even if Be Bethune’s R&D; efforts have dwindled recently. Under A Sea of Stars The dials are mirror polished titanium, which De Bethune heat oxidises for colour. While the brand’s specific method is proprietary, the thickness of this oxide layer determines which wavelengths of light transmit back to the observer, and this Burgundy dial must have a thinner oxide layer than the brand’s typical blue. Next, artisans set dozens of tiny gold pins into the dial to marks starts, before a micro-mill...

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Ed Jelley’s Accidental Small Business: How a 3D Printing Experiment Led to the Miniphone Ultra, an EDC Inspired Case for the Apple Watch Ultra Worn & Wound
Sep 5, 2025

Ed Jelley’s Accidental Small Business: How a 3D Printing Experiment Led to the Miniphone Ultra, an EDC Inspired Case for the Apple Watch Ultra

When does an Apple Watch go from being a watch to being something else? I’m sure, for some, the answer is something like, “As soon as you walk into an Apple Store,” but (as I’ve discussed before) the Apple Watch has, especially in its last few iterations, really come into its own. Thanks to additions like GPS and cell service, it’s even become a decent phone replacement for those days when you want to leave your phone at home. Personally, I love the freedom I feel walking out of the house for a hike or bike ride without my phone, secure in the knowledge that if someone really needs to get a hold of me, they can (that I could also theoretically call for help isn’t the worst thing either). But despite that wonderful feeling, I still don’t love wearing an Apple Watch, especially not when it so often comes at the expense of wearing one of the many other watches I’ve picked up over the years to fill that bottomless hole that exists somewhere deep inside every collector. That’s where the Miniphone Ultra comes into play. Designed by our close friend and Worn & Wound Contributing Editor, Ed Jelley, the Miniphone Ultra is a case that transforms the Apple Watch Ultra (or Ultra II) into a kind of phone replacement, freeing up your wrist space, but still giving you the flexibility to leave the phone at home. Admittedly, using one screen to limit your use of another would sound ridiculous to our great-great-grandfathers, but it’s an elegant solution to what is a ver...

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Introducing – The New Urwerk UR-150 Blue Scorpion Monochrome
Urwerk UR-150 Blue Scorpion Sep 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Urwerk UR-150 Blue Scorpion

A dangerous menagerie of beasts, with models like the T-Rex and the Cobra, lurks in Urwerk’s collections of avant-garde, mechanically complex timepieces. The indie brand, founded by Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner in 1997, interprets time in a radical, futuristic key through original ways of displaying the passing hours. Wandering satellites bearing the hours combined […]

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Introducing – The New Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Black Onyx and Burgundy Monochrome
Louis Vuitton s La Fabrique du Sep 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Black Onyx and Burgundy

Regarded as the most influential 20th-century watch designer and a key figure in the revival of mechanical watchmaking, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is the name behind countless icons that still hold sway today. In 2023, Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) haute horlogerie division announced the return of Gérald Genta as a standalone brand. Overseen […]

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Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Behrens Teams up Sep 4, 2025

Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter

Behrens teams up with Vianney Halter for the bold, electric meter-inspired KWH Watch, in white or rose gold. A unit of measurement for electricity, KWH is short for “kilowatt-hour” and refers to the electric meter inspiration for the design. The extremely dense movement combines the brand’s chain-driven hour display with rotating minute and power reserve cylinders, and a surprise on the back. It also represents a new frontier for the Chinese brand, as its most expensive offering yet. Initial Thoughts While Behrens’ watches do not always appeal to me aesthetically, I think the brand is an ideal champion for Chinese watchmaking. Unlike some brands marketing Chinese-built watches to global enthusiasts, Behrens is Chinese owned and operated. The brand’s founder, Lin Bingqiang, cut his teeth making parts and custom modules in Shenzhen for brands down in Hong Kong before starting Behrens in 2012. An exploded view of the 870 part movement. Many Chinese manufacturers excel at the engineering and manufacturing side, but have weak soft skills and lack vision. Behrens is strong on all fronts, and this is the brand’s most ambitious, and expensive, project yet. The brand may be over-reliant on computer-generated imagery, but I can confirm these watches are real, functional, and doing the rounds at Geneva Watch Week. Case On the heels of a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin, Vianney Halter’s partnership is now with Behrens. This comes only days after Mr Halter’s coll...

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Gérald Genta Strikes the Right Note with the Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps Sep 4, 2025

Gérald Genta Strikes the Right Note with the Minute Repeater

The reborn Gérald Genta has just unveils a simply-titled complicated watch, the Minute Repeater. Although a new design, the striking timepiece harks back to Gérald Genta’s golden age in the late 20th century, in both style and quality of execution. The case takes a clean, cushion-shaped form, while the dial is glossy black onyx. And inside ticks the GG-002, a hand-wind movement derived from the longstanding repeater movement made by Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the parent of Gérald Genta. Though not a limited edition, the yearly output will be limited to 10 pieces. Initial thoughts Big-name brand revivals are not always successful endeavours, since it is often difficult for new patrons to recapture the spirit and style of the original, while also making it financially viable. Gérald Genta is clearly an exception. It was relaunched in 2023 by Louis Vuitton, allowing it to lean more towards genuine quality rather than a flash in the pan.  The Minute Repeater is a welcome and original addition to the brand’s collection, embodying the late Genta’s instinctive design flair and aesthetic sensibilities, while being a new(ish) design. An especially pleasant surprise is the original case shape that certainly looks very Gérald Genta, but wasn’t previously in the catalogue, though Genta did pen similar cases in the past. In other words, this is not a remake. The shape sits between an ellipse and a rounded rectangle, capturing the gist of the 1970s design we...

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Sinn U50 Review: The 500m German Diver Under $3,500 Teddy Baldassarre
Sinn Sep 2, 2025

Sinn U50 Review: The 500m German Diver Under $3,500

The Sinn U50 felt like a revelation when it was released in 2020. Sure, it was based on the larger U1, a design that dating back to 2005, but the U50 was the first to make this modern expression of Sinn design language approachable to a broader audience. As a result, the U50 falls into a rare sweet spot in size and design that you usually have to go back to the ‘90s to find. In an era when many of the great tool watch brands of yesterday are pushing upmarket with more luxurious offerings, a brand like Sinn stands defiantly committed to its core strengths. After four years of ownership, the appeal hasn’t waned. The U50 is more relevant than ever, and in my world, it remains the bar for dive watches under $3,500. I’m usually quick to point out that we are spoiled for choice when it comes to premium dive watches these days; as a genre, it’s one that many start-up microbrands are drawn to for its broad market appeal. It’s also a space that’s been heavily watered down (no pun intended) as a result. I hear enthusiasts describe modern examples through the lens of great historical examples, as those seem to be common sources for inspiration for many new (and old) brands. Truly novel ideas expressed in the dive-watch space are few and far between, but there are some truly interesting examples out there. Chief among them, as you may have discerned by now, is the Sinn U50.  Sinn U50 In Context The U50 isn’t a watch that feels like anything else. There is no old-school ...

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Geneva Watch Days 2025: Everything You Need To Know Fratello
Sep 1, 2025

Geneva Watch Days 2025: Everything You Need To Know

Geneva Watch Days returns for its sixth edition from September 4th to September 7th, 2025, continuing its rise as one of the key events on the horological calendar. Since its founding in 2020, the fair has embraced an open, decentralized approach. This came in the shadow of a disrupted Baselworld and an evolving SIHH. Instead […] Visit Geneva Watch Days 2025: Everything You Need To Know to read the full article.

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