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SJX Watches

Norqain Introduces Feb 12, 2022

Norqain Introduces the Kenissi-Powered Neverest GMT

A young brand established only in 2018 – but backed by noted industry figures – Norqain is best known for sports watches equipped with high-quality movements produced by Kenissi, the manufacture owned by Tudor and Chanel. At the higher end of the brand’s offerings is a dual-time watch with a ceramic bezel insert and patterned dial that was introduced just last year in steel. Now it gets a luxe facelift, resulting in the Adventure Neverest GMT 41mm Steel & Gold. Available either with rubber strap or steel bracelet Initial thoughts The all-steel Neverest GMT a straightforward, agreeable proposition: practical functions backed by a solid movement, while boasting a fairly elaborate case and dial. Yet such features aren’t enough in today’s market since extras like a ceramic bezel are almost the norm. Despite its strong execution in terms of fit and finish, the original Neverest GMT lacked a punchy aesthetic, with its styling seeming a bit derivative. That’s changed with the two-tone model. The addition of a modest quantity of pink gold gives the watch a more upscale feel, especially complemented by the glossy ceramic bezel, resulting in a look more comparable with its competition in the same price range. Two-tone here means the addition of gold details, rather than an excessive use of the precious metal The gold details, however, mean the watch is about 40% pricier than its steel counterpart. At US$5,290 on a strap and more on a bracelet, the two-tone Neverest GMT ...

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Quill & Pad

Feb 12, 2022

Soldera Wines: Sensational Italian Tuscan With A Hollywood-Worthy Backstory – Reprise

The rise of Brunello has been recent. And, arguably, the single most convincingly 100 percent Brunello example of fine wine is Soldera at Case Basse according to Ken Gargett and other wine experts. But Soldera and the region have a dramatic background, one that might not be common knowledge outside Tuscany. Read on for a Hollywood script-worthy story and mouthwatering descriptions of Tuscan wines you may not (yet) be acquainted with.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Feb 11, 2022

Editors' Picks: Pretty In Pink: Six Valentine-Ready Watches That Have Us Feeling Rosy

These watches made a big impression at first blush.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

TAG Heuer ushered Feb 11, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines

A lot has happened over the last seven days, but earlier today TAG Heuer ushered in their next generation of Connected Watch: the Calibre E4. Some collectors scoff at the idea of a smartwatch, claiming that such a digital device does not have the artistic essence of a traditional mechanical timepiece. But let’s face it, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

H. Moser & Cie x Feb 10, 2022

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance

As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, the H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse should have Martin Green's name written all over it. Yet when he first saw the watch, he didn’t boil over with excitement. This is not the first logoless, minimalistic watch that Moser has made, so what does it add to what is already there? Read on to discover the answer.

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Quill & Pad

Cartier Feb 9, 2022

Cartier And HBO’s ‘And Just Like That,’ The ‘Sex And The City’ Sequel (Attention: Spoilers Ahead)

One streaming series Elizabeth Doerr was really looking forward to was 'And Just Like That,' the much-anticipated sequel to 'Sex and the City.' She has always loved the taboo-laden adventures of the quartet of New York City fashionista heroines of this story and their diverse love lives – escapism at its best with lots of funky fashion to ogle and girl talk to laugh along with. It was the perfect show for Cartier to fill with product placement, too, even if reviews haven't been the greatest. Here's why.

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SJX Watches

Feb 7, 2022

In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1

A quartet representing the entirety of Philippe Dufour’s repertoire went under the hammer last year, with the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 setting the record for any Dufour sold publicly when it achieved the equivalent of US$5.2 million including fees. Sold at the same auction, but for substantially less, was the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch no. 1. Despite the relative values, the pocket watch is arguably a more significant timepiece within Mr Dufour’s work. Why? Initial thoughts In today’s wristwatch-centric era, the fact that it is a pocket watch counts against it. That was also the verdict of the market – the pocket watch sold for half as much as the wristwatch in November 2021. But the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch is the ultimate distillation of Philippe Dufour’s philosophy, the ideal synthesis of the inspiration and impetus behind his creations. He has long stated, both publicly and to me in past conversations, that his watches are a reverential homage to the haute horlogerie produced in the Vallée de Joux during its heyday before the Quartz Crisis, the period between the late 19th to the mid 20th centuries. Timepieces of that era, especially those with ebauches made by the valley’s best specialists like Louis-Elisee Piguet and Ami LeCoutre, are the best watches ever made in Switzerland in his view. And the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch can pass for a timepiece from the late 19th century, perhaps even one made by Mr Dufour’s favourite historical w...

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WatchAdvice

Feb 7, 2022

Ball Engineering Hydrocarbon NEDU Chronograph Hands-on Review

What we love: Proper solid built watch overallClasp feel very secure on the wristGAS Tube Lume is sensational at night What we don’t love: Thickness, at 17.3mm some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Some may find the crown guard to be fiddlySome may find the Clasp can dig into the wrist Overall rating: 7.5/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 7/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Once upon a time, if you wanted a mid-priced automatic chronograph, chances are it’ll be powered by the ETA 7750 (or one of its close siblings), and the only choice really was the brand and the style. The movement was so ubiquitous that it was literally everywhere and fitted to almost everything. The dial layout was distinctive, and the rotor wobble was familiar, instantly giving away the engine within. Don’t get me wrong. This wasn’t a bad thing. The movement is a low key high achiever, easily running within COSC specs day in and day out without so much as breaking a sweat. It is a tough, durable, workhorse movement, designed from the beginning as an integrated chronograph, making it very efficient and the “almost 2 days” of power reserve is a testament to that fact. You might scoff at the power reserve but keeping in mind that this movement has been around since the 70s, largely unchanged, and 2 days was the norm for many decades. Plus, if you wear it every day, then it’s really a moot point. The only thing that might generate heated debate is how much value you attac...

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Time+Tide

Hamilton watches Feb 4, 2022

Time+Tide is now the place to buy Hamilton watches in Australia. Hallelujah!

Anyone that lives in Australia and loves watches knows what I’m about to say is 100 per cent true. Not having Hamilton readily available in our country, for YEARS, has been very, very annoying. As our fellow watch media – looking squarely at you Hodinkee, who seem to make a sport of it – have … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide is now the place to buy Hamilton watches in Australia. Hallelujah! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Montblanc Mr Cerrato has applied Feb 1, 2022

HYT Returns with the Hastroid

Having been the first – and still the only – watchmaker to use liquid to display the time, HYT went bust last year, having struggled for several years after its 2012 debut. But now the brand is making a comeback with Davide Cerrato at the helm. The inaugural watch of the reborn HYT is the Hastroid Green Nebula that is dressed in brand’s familiar livery of lime green and black. Best known for being the design chief at first Tudor and then Montblanc, Mr Cerrato has applied his brand of Italian aesthetics to HYT, preserving its signature style while streamlining and downsizing the watches. Still large, but slightly thinner and definitely sleeker, the Hastroid continues the familiar formula found on most previous HYT watches – hours are indicated by a retrograde fluid indicator within a glass tube, while two large bellows are responsible for pumping the fluid indicator back and forth. Initial thoughts I was sceptical when I first heard that HYT was back from the dead, but knowing that Mr Cerrato is leading the charge certainly increases the odds of success. He did a stellar job shaping the visual identities of both Tudor and Montblanc – both of which still have the same house style today – and has certainly refined the HYT wristwatch while retaining its familiar feel. The Having seen a resin mockup of the Hastroid, I can attest to the fact that the watch is more compact and slightly more wearable than a first-generation HYT. At the same time, Mr Cerrato has given...

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SJX Watches

F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm Feb 1, 2022

Auction Watch: “New Old Stock” Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 and F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm

A newcomer to the world of watch auctions, Loupe This was founded by a pair of industry veterans and operates in a distinctly 21st century manner: sales are conducted entirely online, with about ten watches on the block at any one time. The offerings on Loupe This are diverse. In December 2021 it sold an example of our Habring2 Erwin “Star” for US$15,400 including fees, while the latest to go under the hammer are two interesting, long-discontinued watches from notable watchmakers based in Geneva – but otherwise radically different. One is the a Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 – in pristine, “new old stock” condition – and the other, an F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe 38 mm. Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 Produced from 1960 to 1988, the ref. 1019 was the longest-running reference of the Milgauss, the brand’s famous magnetism-resistant watch conceived for engineers and nuclear scientists. Despite the lengthy production run, the ref. 1019 is relatively rare because the model wasn’t produced in sizeable numbers for the simple reason that it didn’t sell well. In fact, Rolex discontinued the Milgauss altogether in 1988, before reviving it some two decades later. While the rarity certainly boosts its appeal, the ref. 1019 is attractive and unusual for being one of the most fuss-free Rolex “Professional” sports watch. The ref. 1019 is also the simplest version of the Milgauss, doing without the rotating bezel or “lightning” seconds hand found on earlier models. It ...

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SJX Watches

Bulgari Debuts Jan 31, 2022

Bulgari Debuts the Smallest Movement of 21st Century

Bulgari is starting the year big with something impressively tiny – the hand-wind BVL 100 Piccolissimo that’s the smallest mechanical movement of the 21st century at just 12.3 mm wide and 2.5 mm tall. The minuscule movement makes it debut in the latest version of Bulgari’s iconic snake-bangle wristwatch – it is one o the most iconic jewellery watches of all time in fact – the Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery Secret Watch. While many versions of the Serpenti bracelet have been equipped with quartz movements in recent years, the BVL 100 means the watch within the snake’s head is once again mechanical, just like the originals of the 1950s. The tiny barrel bridge of the BVL 100 Initial thoughts While the Serpenti Misteriosi is a high-jewellery watch that has little practical appeal for most watch collectors, it’s difficult to easy to appreciate watch for its combination of design, craft, and of course the technical achievement of the BVL100. Amusingly enough, the Serpenti Misteriosi is, technically speaking, an integrated-bracelet watch with a reversible dial – two features highly coveted in the watch world – though the lavish jewels and lacquer disguises most of its horological qualities, which also illustrates the power of the iconic design. The forked tongue is a trigger to open the snake’s head, revealing the time below But over-the-top style is only useful for a specific audience – and specific occasions – so for the rest of us, there’s the ...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Introduces Jan 30, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Chronograph 41 mm Ref. 26240

In addition to new time-and-date models – led by the “Jumbo” ref. 16202 – Audemars Piguet revamped a few complicated Royal Oaks for the model’s 50th anniversary. At the top end of the complications line up is the flying tourbillon, while the most affordable is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm ref. 26240. Like last year’s solid-gold Royal Oak chronograph on a strap, the new ref. 26240 is equipped with the cal. 4401, the brand’s latest-generation chronograph movement that made its debut in the Code 11.59 Chronograph. All 50th anniversary Royal Oak watches produced in 2022 have 22k pink gold rotors bearing the anniversary emblem, but plated to match the case colour Initial thoughts Technically speaking, the ref. 26240 is less of a new launch because the gold version was introduced last year. What sets it apart is the bracelet; last year’s model was available only on a strap. But ref. 26240 is newsworthy as it marks the first time a Royal Oak Chronograph (ROC) in steel – historically the metal of choice for the Royal Oak – is fitted with an in-house movement. The cal. 4401 is certainly an upgrade over the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1185 that equipped past versions of the ROC. The new movement has almost everything a high-end sports chronograph should have, such as a vertical clutch and column wheel, while also having extras like a flyback function for immediate restart of the chronograph. Notably, the cal. 4401 also improves the balance of the dial...

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SJX Watches

Grand Seiko Jan 26, 2022

Seiko Revives the King Seiko

Introduced just over a year ago, the King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJE083 was the surprise comeback of the King Seiko label that had been dormant for decades. Though it was a limited edition, the SJE083 hinted at the possibility of King Seiko returning as a regular production offering. Perhaps quicker than expected, that has happened with the introduction of the King Seiko. A single model that’s in four variants, the new King Seiko is effectively vintage in both size and style, being modelled on the original KSK of 1965. The original King Seiko KSK of 1965 Initial thoughts Sitting in between Grand Seiko and the Seiko Presage in both price and positioning, King Seiko is the brand’s affordable entry into vintage-inspired design – while incorporating Grand Seiko vibes – with its sharply faceted case and, for the first time, a bracelet. The bracelet gives the new King Seiko something of an integrated-bracelet feel, which puts it in competition with more modern offerings, including the Citizen Series 8. But the new King Seiko stands out for its old-school design that’s faithful to the original. The strict adherence to historical design is the norm for Seiko remakes, although most of the brand’s remakes have been limited editions. Because King Seiko a regular production offering, it is far more accessible, both in terms of price and availability. It does away with the date, unlike the earlier SJE083 The only possible drawback is repositioning of King Seiko,...

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SJX Watches

Hublot Unveils Jan 25, 2022

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only

While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...

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SJX Watches

Girard-Perregaux Jan 24, 2022

Business News: Kering Sells Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux to Management

After several years of trying to grow its sub-scale watch division, Kering has sold both of its watch brands in a management buyout led by chief executive Patrick Pruniaux. A former Apple executive who started his watch career at TAG Heuer, Mr Pruniaux first took charge of Ulysse Nardin in 2017 before also taking the top job at Girard-Perregaux a year later. He proceeded to merge both brands into a single factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a move that was subsequently followed by layoffs the next year. The slimmed-down brands will have the flexibility to do more, while also facing the challenge of being relatively small players facing off against stronger brands. The French luxury group never managed to replicate the earlier success of its watch brands, both of which were run by iconoclastic entrepreneurs – Rolf Schnyder at Ulysse Nardin and Luigi “Gino” Macaluso at Girard-Perregaux. Both their deaths led to their heirs selling the respective companies to Kering, the Macaluso family in 2011 and the Schnyder family in 2014. Patrick Pruniaux With brands like Gucci and Saint Laurent in its stable, Kering had 2020 revenues of over €13 billion, leaving its two-brand watch division diminutive in comparison. The group never found the right formula for its watch division, resulting in the gradual erosion of sales. At the time of their respective acquisitions, Girard-Perregaux has annual sales of about CHF180 million and Ulysse Nardin about €190 million according to recent es...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Jan 23, 2022

Urwerk UR-T8 ‘Transformer’: If You’ve Ever Wondered What The Lovechild Of A Reverso And A Tyrannosaurus Rex Might Look Like . . . (+ Video) – Reprise

It's no exaggeration to say that here at Quill & Pad we are big fans of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. And in 2017 Urwerk introduced its own, very robust version of a reversible watch: the UR-T8 Transformer. It's a T-Rex for the wrist that acts much like a Reverso!

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Jan 22, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer (#4)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. Heading deep into the top 10 it’s the Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer at number 4… Two-tone watches don’t … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer (#4) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Grand Seiko SLGH005 #5 Editor’s note Jan 20, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Grand Seiko SLGH005 (#5)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. Heading deep into the top 10 it’s the Grand Seiko SLGH005 at number 5… Whenever I hear a new Grand … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Grand Seiko SLGH005 (#5) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Jan 19, 2022

Book Review: ‘Inside Burgundy’ Second Edition By Jasper Morris

Some wine books are absolute must-haves for any serious, wine-obsessed drinker/collector. Jasper Morris’ 'Inside Burgundy,' released just over a decade ago, is right at up the top of that list. Put simply, it was as thorough and thoroughly competent an examination of a region and its wines as exists anywhere. And Morris has just released an updated second edition, which Ken Gargett reviews here.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

TAG Heuer Connected collection #6 Editor’s Jan 19, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The TAG Heuer Connected collection (#6)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. Heading deep into the top 10 it’s the TAG Heuer Connected collection at number 6… It’s fair to say that … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The TAG Heuer Connected collection (#6) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Tudor FXD Jan 19, 2022

RECOMMENDED READING: British Navy sailor jailed for stealing Special Forces dive watches

Watches with real military heritage carry a special allure to them – something that has been recognised both by enthusiasts and collectors. There’s a reassuring authenticity about a tool watch designed for a specific purpose (look at the Marine Nationale’s input into the design of the Tudor FXD, for example), or a watch built to … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: British Navy sailor jailed for stealing Special Forces dive watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Jan 17, 2022

HODINKEE Radio: Inside Our Dream Watch Designs

A behind-the-scenes chat about our latest attempt at being watch designers.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Oris Hölstein Edition #8 Editor’s Jan 16, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – Oris Hölstein Edition (#8)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. Heading deep into the top 10 it’s the Oris Hölstein Edition at number 8… The Oristas out there eagerly anticipate … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – Oris Hölstein Edition (#8) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9 Jan 15, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9 (#9)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. At number 9, it’s the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9… Never, in my life, have I had more comments on … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9 (#9) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Jan 9, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium (#15)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best judging by the online traffic. At number 15, it’s the Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium… Longines have been leading the nostalgia bandwagon for years now. Their Heritage … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium (#15) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Jan 7, 2022

VIDEO: The top watches of 2021 $5K-$10K

So you’ve spent COVID wisely, treading the path of financial caution and peeking at your savings account once in a blue moon to see it ripening. Now, it’s not like the pandemic is over, but maybe it’s stretched on further than you could have predicted, and you feel like you deserve to crack open that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The top watches of 2021 $5K-$10K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Bremont Broadsword Jet #19 Editor’s Jan 5, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Bremont Broadsword Jet (#19)

Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice. At number 19, it’s the Bremont Broadsword Jet… While there are … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Bremont Broadsword Jet (#19) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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D Deployant

Deployant

Frederique Constant Slimline Monolithic Manufacture – Jan 4, 2022

Review: Frederique Constant Slimline Monolithic Manufacture – a unique take on the traditional oscillator

The Frederique Constant Slimline Monolithic Manufacture is a watch that redefines high-beat, with a heart that vibrates at 288,000 vph.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Jan 3, 2022

“Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021

Last year, as Melbourne achieved the dubious victory of edging out Buenos Aires to endure the longest hard lockdown in the world, I was mostly working from home. Dear reader, it’s fair to say that during this period, sartorial standards took a sharp nosedive. I couldn’t get a haircut for almost five months and, at … ContinuedThe post “Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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