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Vacheron Constantin’s Temporis is a Unique Double Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Temporis Jun 20, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s Temporis is a Unique Double Complication

Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin’s programme dedicated to one-off and special-order watches. The latest to emerge from the workshop is the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, a large, complicated watch with an intricate calibre and an unusually modern, clear sapphire dial. The look is more contemporary than usual for a Les Cabinotiers grand complication, thanks to both the sapphire dial with its off-centre displays and a monochromatic grey finish on the movement. An evolution (and stylistic upgrade) of the solid-dial Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds from 2022, the Temporis is underpinned by a base movement that features a minute repeater and tourbillon; on top sits a traditionally constructed split-seconds chronograph mechanism that is paired with the calibre in an unconventional manner. The layers inside the cal. 2757 S of the Temporis Initial thoughts Twenty twenty-five has been good for Vacheron Constantin in terms of complicated watches – the brand started the year with the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and has followed up with the Temporis. In comparison to the Solaria with 41 functions and a price tag in the mid-millions, the Temporis is simple and affordable, but still impressive. Though it is largely identical in terms of the movement to the 2022 model with a solid dial, the Temporis offers a lot more visually with its open dial. Though the look is modern – compare this to the baroque B...

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Introducing: The Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date With A White Dial Fratello
Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Jun 19, 2025

Introducing: The Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date With A White Dial

Black and white must be the most commonly used colors ever for watch dials. In Nomos’s case, though, I don’t associate its watches with black dials. There are indeed some (13 currently on the website), but Nomos is a brand I associate more with white dials. There are over 100 references currently available with a […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date With A White Dial to read the full article.

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Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jun 18, 2025

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review

The GMT market has changed dramatically in the past seven years. I use that number specifically, because it takes us to 2018, when Tudor brought attainable traveller GMT (independent hour hand functionality) to market in a splashy way. Since then we have seen brands like Longines and Mido continue the work by delivering more options at even better price points. From a general “caller GMT” standpoint, Seiko has knocked it out of the park with models like those within the SSK range. We are living in a GMT moment with more options than ever. But if you took things back just one more year, to 2017, you could argue that it was the year Japan’s Grand Seiko made a mic-dropping value statement by way of the SBGM221, a traveller GMT in a dressier package with elite functionality while delivering value that far outpaces its price point. In 2025, that value proposition has not changed at all. Background:  The DNA of the SBGM221 looks back to the early roots of Grand Seiko in the 1960s to inform its design, but from a modern standpoint more directly can look to the SBGM021 released around 2010. That year is significant because it was the first year the brand arrived in the U.S. market. Aesthetically, the SBGM021 is an illustration of the older style of co-branded Seiko/Grand Seiko fare. Fast forward to 2017, and the watch reaches its completed form. But the 021, with its ivory dial, and general – and honestly quite original – GMT layout is established. You can see the direc...

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The Cornell Watch Company Introduces the Lozier, with a Case, Crown, Dial and Hands Made in the United States Worn & Wound
Jun 18, 2025

The Cornell Watch Company Introduces the Lozier, with a Case, Crown, Dial and Hands Made in the United States

Back in February, Alec Dent wrote a story about two new references from Cornell Watch Company, and hinted at a much more significant development a little further down the line. Well, we are now far enough down that proverbial line to see what Cornell has been teasing, not just since their February release, but in conversations with brand founders John and Chrissy Warren going back to at least the summer of last year. Cornell’s initial release, a quite expensive modern interpretation of classic American pocket watches made by the original incarnation of the Cornell Watch Company, was and continues to be a very beautifully made luxury watch. But, as any brand owner will tell you, it’s difficult to run a watch brand based on one single, expensive product. Even more so when that product is produced, as much as possible, here in the United States with an assist from industry legend Roland Murphy at RGM. It’s largely that desire to make something in America that animates Cornell, and it’s led them to their newest offering, the Lozier, a far more affordable watch that can be produced at scale, and is made in partnership with Ohio’s Hour Precision, also profiled recently by Alec Dent. The Lozier is a three-hander designed for everyday wear, and inspired chiefly by watches produced in the first half the 20th century. It’s 37.5mm in diameter and measures 8.5mm tall, including the crystal. One of the most notable design quirks of the watch is the broad 22mm lug width, a d...

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Greubel Forsey Reworks the GMT Balancier Convexe SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Reworks Jun 18, 2025

Greubel Forsey Reworks the GMT Balancier Convexe

Greubel Forsey has refined its GMT Balancier Convexe with improved wearability due to a slightly smaller case, while maintaining the model’s trademark three-dimensional rotating globe. This is paired with some subtle, but interesting tweaks to the movement itself, including a new, and more elaborately decorated, escape wheel. Initial Thoughts Since the original GMT in 2011, the three-dimensional globe has become a Grebuel Forsey signature. Time zone-related complications are a natural fit for a sports watch, so much so that the brand’s first sports watch was a GMT. The brand has built on the GMT concept through multiple iterations, but the current version is arguably the most focused, without a tourbillon (or four), to distract from the core idea. The latest GMT Balancier Convexe is essentially the same as the previous model, but more wearable. It’s still a large watch, but scaled down and also might lightweight. The added power reserve indicator is also appreciated, and in hindsight, it’s odd that the function was absent in the first place given the utility of a power reserve display on a manual-wind travel watch. The World on Your Wrist Grebuel Forsey’s sporty Convexe cases have always worn somewhat smaller than specifications suggest due to the lug-less design, and the curved sapphire crystal back, which allows the watch to hug the wrist. However, a large watch that wears well is still a large watch. For the new GMT, Grendel Forsey has trimmed the case diamete...

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Amida Introduces the Digitrend Open Sapphire Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs as comps either Jun 17, 2025

Amida Introduces the Digitrend Open Sapphire

When the Amida Digitrend arrived last summer, it was part of a crop of new releases from independent brands making interesting designs and complications accessible to a wider audience, and it really won me over. In my review last year I cited watches from Toledano & Chan, SpaceOne, and Holthinrichs as comps, either in spirit, technical features, or both. Those brands of course are still very much in the mix, and a year later there are even more examples of watches that offer unique value at competitive price points by introducing enthusiasts to new ways of thinking about what a watch can be. This is a long-winded way of saying that the market for these types of watches is more competitive than ever, so a follow up release becomes that much more important. Amida, for their part, is seeking to keep the momentum going by introducing a new version of the Digitrend that sheds some literal light on how they achieve their unique complication.  The Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire is essentially exactly what it says it is – a Digitrend with a large sapphire window affixed to the case that allows the wearer to see the jump hour mechanism inside. Previously, this area was covered by a solid sheet of metal, an aesthetic drawn from the brand’s interest in automotive design. They are applying similar principles to the new version that leaves the “engine” (their terminology) exposed, referencing removable Targa tops as a point of inspiration.  The Digitrend, for those who need a ...

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Watches & Wonders Announces 2026 Dates SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jun 17, 2025

Watches & Wonders Announces 2026 Dates

Anchored by brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) is the world’s biggest luxury watch fair  and it will take place at its traditional time of early spring, April 14-20, 2026, once again at Palexpo. As is now convention, the final three days, April 18-20, will be open to the public, who can access the fair by buying a ticket. The first four days will only be open to invited guests, namely members of the trade, primarily brand executives, retailers, media, as well as select clients. W&W; will also stage events outside Palexpo, the convention centre near the airport, with several events planned in downtown Geneva. In past years, these have included exhibitions, talks, and social gatherings. The exhibitors for 2026 have yet to be announced, but the establishment brands are a certainty, including the brands owned by Richemont like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, and the LVMH marques like TAG Heuer and Hublot. There has been talk of brands joining (or returning to) the list of exhibitors – Bulgari was a newcomer in 2025 – but this will soon be known once W&W; publishes the exhibitors directory.  

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First Look – The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Regulator Time Eater III Monochrome
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Regulator Jun 16, 2025

First Look – The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Regulator Time Eater III

Watchmaking is generally considered serious business. Luckily, there are more and more brands that embrace humour. Which is not to say they are not serious about their watches; far from it. Louis Erard, under the inspired leadership of Manuel Emch, is one such brand, enlisting famous designers like Alain Silberstein to enliven models with his […]

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First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph with Ocean Grey Lacquer Dial Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Jun 16, 2025

First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph with Ocean Grey Lacquer Dial

First released in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection was designed to reintroduce a sports range alongside the brand’s classical Reverso and Master lineups. Deeply inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris dive watch with its alarm mechanism, there was more to the collection than just this complication, as the brand also released some pretty attractive chronographs. […]

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First Look – Celebrating its Tenth Anniversary, the Bovet 19Thirty Receives a Refreshingly Modern Face Monochrome
Bovet Jun 16, 2025

First Look – Celebrating its Tenth Anniversary, the Bovet 19Thirty Receives a Refreshingly Modern Face

Bovet, the historic Swiss brand founded in 1822, was revived by Pascal Raffy in 2001 as a temple of haute horlogerie. Since then, the brand has become synonymous with high-end complications decorated with lavish artistic flourishes. One of the more ‘straightforward’ collections in Bovet’s universe is the 19Thirty, a time-only model with a unique and […]

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Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83 SRPL85 Jun 16, 2025

Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89

Seiko unveiled the new SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89 only a few weeks ago. The new quartet is part of the Seiko 5 Sports lineup, more specifically, the so-called “SKX series.” But with that classification comes some mental gymnastics. When Seiko introduced the 5 Sports line in 2019, the brand was adamant that the newly […] Visit Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 to read the full article.

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Hands-On: The Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Is Stripped Back And Stepped Up Fratello
Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Jun 15, 2025

Hands-On: The Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Is Stripped Back And Stepped Up

I remember the first time I saw the Armin Strom One Week. It was during Geneva Watch Days in 2023, and the setting couldn’t have been more memorable. While most brands hosted their meetings in the shaded, sepia-toned suites of the Beau Rivage, Armin Strom had something different in mind. I followed the address provided […] Visit Hands-On: The Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Is Stripped Back And Stepped Up to read the full article.

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Citizen Titanium Watches: The In-Depth Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Jun 14, 2025

Citizen Titanium Watches: The In-Depth Guide

The first Citizen titanium watch hit the market more than 50 years ago, and while it probably didn’t receive the breathless coverage that it may have garnered in today’s watch media, it was a watershed moment for the industry. Many watch brands make titanium watches today, but few of them have made the metal a signature of its identity to the extent that Citizen has, and fewer still have even attempted what the Japanese watchmaking giant has achieved in terms of improving and plumbing the full, unrealized potential of titanium. In this feature, we explore Citizen’s history in titanium watches and spotlight some of its most historic pieces, from 1970 to today.  Long before it entered the watchmaking arena in the late 20th Century, titanium had played a role in numerous industrial developments. It was first discovered in 1791 by clergyman and mineralogist William Gregor, in Cornwall, Great Britain, and named several years later by German chemist William Kaproth, who had previously discovered Uranium. Like the latter element, named for the Greek god (and planet) Uranus, titanium’s name comes from a mythological source, the Titans who preceded the Olympian gods. Some of its earliest applications as a mineral ore included titanium dioxide, in products like white pigment, and titanium tetrachloride, in hydrochloric acid and smoke screens. Later, alloyed with metals like iron, molybdenum, aluminum, and vanadium, titanium became prized for its high strength-to-weight rati...

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We’re gonna need a bigger watch: Seiko celebrates Jaws’ 50th anniversary with a limited-edition Prospex Turtle Time+Tide
Seiko celebrates Jaws’ 50th anniversary Jun 13, 2025

We’re gonna need a bigger watch: Seiko celebrates Jaws’ 50th anniversary with a limited-edition Prospex Turtle

Seiko show off a sense of humour with a diver commemorating a movie that's done more to put off people from ocean swimming than any other.The post We’re gonna need a bigger watch: Seiko celebrates Jaws’ 50th anniversary with a limited-edition Prospex Turtle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tudor Black Bay 54 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jun 12, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 54 Review

Making its debut at the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders, the Tudor Black Bay 54 caused something of a riot with its dead-on vintage reimagining of the Oyster Prince Submariner Reference 7922 from, you guessed it, 1954. Truly, apart from some dial text details and a more contemporary handset, you could easily mistake one for the other from across a room. For fans of historically sized divers, this was pure catnip, without the accompanying headaches associated with vintage watches, most notably, fragility and authenticity. The larger blue Black Bay 58 (left) next to the 37mm Black Bay 54 (right) Getting both the look and a warranty proved to be impossible to resist, leading to waiting lists at ADs and plenty of Instagram FOMO. Let’s face it, many collectors are more attuned to the stylistic path that Tudor has taken in recent memory, with an aesthetic that’s more tool than jewel. The Tudor of yore was a more attainable Rolex, with models like the Tudor Sub nearly identical to the Rolex version, apart from the movement within. But as Rolex has sized up and blinged out, the two corporate siblings’ paths have diverged, with Tudor more than happy to scoop up the business of enthusiasts who prefer a retro feel in their timepieces. Like many armchair super-spies, I’m all-in on a watch that wouldn’t be out of place on Connery’s wrist in Thunderball, despite having never once fired a speargun. So now that the dust has settled and the BB54 has been out in the wild for ...

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Introducing – New to the Wristmons Series, the Konstantin Chaykin Joker Iron Mask and Golden Mask Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Jun 12, 2025

Introducing – New to the Wristmons Series, the Konstantin Chaykin Joker Iron Mask and Golden Mask

Independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin adds two more watch models to his acclaimed Wristmons collection: the Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask. These latest creations evolve the Joker concept through an open-dial design that merges theatrical inspiration with traditional watchmaking finishes. Konstantin Chaykin first explored open-dial Wristmons in 2020, debuting the idea with the unique […]

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Introducing: The Seiko 5 SRPL91 And SRPL93 - Re-Editions Of The “Gene Kranz” 6119-8460 Sports Diver Fratello
Seiko 5 SRPL91 Jun 11, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko 5 SRPL91 And SRPL93 - Re-Editions Of The “Gene Kranz” 6119-8460 Sports Diver

“Failure is not an option,” said actor Ed Harris in the 1995 movie Apollo 13 as he directed the successful efforts by the Mission Control team to save the crew. Harris played the role of Gene Kranz, the actual Chief Flight Director during that mission and many more, including Apollo 11, the first lunar-landing mission. […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko 5 SRPL91 And SRPL93 - Re-Editions Of The “Gene Kranz” 6119-8460 Sports Diver to read the full article.

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Seiko’s Affordable Presage Gets an “Unglazed Porcelain” Dial SJX Watches
Seiko s Affordable Presage Gets Jun 10, 2025

Seiko’s Affordable Presage Gets an “Unglazed Porcelain” Dial

Seiko has introduced a new addition to its line of affordable dress watches, the Presage Craftsmanship “Unglazed Arita Porcelain” ref. SPB497. This limited edition retains the accessible pricing the Presage is known for, but is more than just affordable. Unlike previous models with glossy porcelain dials, this has a matte texture that enhances the rhombus patterned surface, traditionally a symbol of prosperity and health in Japan. Initial Thoughts When Seiko launched the first enamel-dialed Presage in 2013, it was an incredible value. In the years since, Seiko has expanded the range with more ambitious designs, and other materials such as Arita porcelain and Urushi lacquer, though the dial decoration techniques employed are uniformly traditional and Japanese. While the Presage models are still accessibly priced, this new model is US$1,850. The price tag is no longer the most compelling aspect but the dials themselves are still interesting in themselves. Unglazed porcelain dials are already almost non-existent, and the diamond pattern makes it even more interesting. Supporting traditional craft arts is also admirable, and has seen great success in the Swiss watch industry, albeit at a much higher price point. The new model employs the familiar Presage case, which is on the large side for a simple, dress watch, and the 27 mm diameter movement could easily fit into a smaller case. However, since a larger case also means a larger dial, it can be forgiven. Unglazed Dial Ari...

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New: Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40MM “Enjoy Life” Special Edition Deployant
Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40MM Jun 10, 2025

New: Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40MM “Enjoy Life” Special Edition

An ice cream a week keeps the troubles away! Norqain have just released the Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm “Enjoy Life” Special Edition where they plan to bring some positive vibes to this crazy world. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New: Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40MM “Enjoy Life” Special Edition The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40MM “EnjoyRead More

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