633 articles · 59 videos found · page 18 of 24
Deployant
We divi right into the novelty. The Bridge. The first rectangular case with a firm movement. New caliber from LF. Two dial variations. In white enamel grand feu and in slate grey silver dial. CHF33,000 before taxes and CHF 37,000 for the enamel dial. Spherical sapphire over the dial. Laurent Ferrier Gallet Traveller and theRead More
Deployant
We hit the Independents next. First stop Speake-Marin. Four new watches. First off a new two timezone watch, new caliber, the 1 and 2 Dual Time Retrograde. Avail in Ti and gold. Two sizes 38mm and 42mm. Limited edition in gold 22×2 and in Ti 33×2. From S$32,000 for Ti and S$50,000 in gold. TheRead More
Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier next. Here are the novelty highlights. Toric Perpetual Calendar. Two dials are available. The hand guiloche dial version is 1k more at CHF 69,000. Case 42.9mm rose gold case. Caliber PF333, automatic, with a 22k gold rotor. The slate color dials are quite muted in tone, allowing the guilloche to shine. Toric HemisphereRead More
Time+Tide
In the wonderful world of Grand Seiko, if it’s not using a quartz crystal – and, yes, that includes the Spring Drive – then inside is a Caliber 9S movement. Introduced in 1998, the Caliber 9S is the staple of all mechanical Grand Seikos and forms the base for everything from humble three-handers to hi-beats … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
This new SBGJ229G Ceramic Hi-Beat limited edition speaks of both the past and the future and does so in the spirit of the 9S caliber that it celebrates.
Revolution
Oris’ manual-winding 10-day power-reserve movement now comes with a universally appealing GMT function in the Caliber 114.
Time+Tide
Though Piaget has made a lot of noise in the past 12 months with the sporty steel Polo S, the undeniable heart of the collection is the ultra-slim and ultra-sexy Altiplano. Born in 1957 and named for the flat South American high plains, the Altiplano and the legendary caliber 9P that powered it, have become … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: 6 decades on and still going strong – the Piaget Altiplano 60th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In conversation with Dieter Pachner VP Sales Glashütte Original chronographs caliber 37 GO watches
Revolution
Deadbeat seconds are popular this year, and the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat is an especially compelling example. Behind that beautiful dial, there’ s a new, patented caliber. The new Grande Seconde Deadbeat incorporates several subtle design elements. The Grande Seconde timepieces already featured, well, Grande Secondes. To place even greater emphasis on the seconds […]
Revolution
Above, TAG Heuer Carrera CH 80 as introduced at BaselWorld TAG Heuer has announced today that it will “postpone” production of its latest chronograph movement, the caliber CH 80, in order to “focus on” production of its cal. 1887, which is now referred to as the CH1887. “La Chaux-de-Fonds, June 5, 2014 – In order […]
Revolution
The “baguette” isn’t some fancy way of calling french bread loaves, to the mechanically inclined, it is the namesake of the oblong shape of baguette movements. Though the concept was first introduced in 1929 care of Jaeger-LeCoulture caliber 101, it was Corum who recently brought the movement back into popular consciousness thanks to a patent […]
SJX Watches
The Maltese cross is a ubiquitous device found inside all sorts of mechanical movements. Originally devised to limit a mainspring’s working range, it also makes an appearance in perpetual calendars and unconventional jumping hours complications. The elegant mechanism is both simple and clever, warranting a closer look. From cross to mechanics The Maltese cross mechanism gets its name from the heraldic symbol adopted by the Order of St. John, and remains associated with the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. While the original cross has four arms, the Maltese cross as a horological component commonly features five arms or more. Collectors also recognise the cross as Vacheron Constantin’s logo, adopted in 1880 in tribute to the horological component. Today, Vacheron Constantin also incorporates the cross into its tourbillon cage and even some decorative screw heads. Screw for the column wheel fashioned with a Maltese cross head inside the Vacheron Constantin caliber 3200. The component itself is a masterfully simple example of geometry and mechanics. The system allows a true 1-to-any transmission ratio, since the driving component only has one tooth which makes the cross-shaped wheel advance one single step every revolution. For comparison, a 1:5 transmission ratio can be accomplished by a pinion with ten leaves paired to a wheel with 50 teeth, but the motion transmitted would then be continuous. A Maltese cross still makes one full revolution after the driver turns five...
WristBuzz
Garmin's third-generation MARQ collection arrives with six distinct models and a serious argument for why this is the smartwatch to buy
Worn & Wound
Today, Christopher Ward officially introduces what some might call one of the worst kept secrets in indie watchmaking. We all knew that a dressy version of the brand’s Loco was coming – their British Watchmakers’ Day limited edition kind of gave it away. No one really thought that would be a one off, right? The all new C1 Loco Classic arrives as a fully formed product line within the brand’s Atelier lineup, and offers collectors who might have bristled at the aggressively sporty, angular C12 Loco a more refined option built on the same caliber with the same dramatic architecture. The C1 Loco Classic is built on a 41mm 904L stainless steel “Light-catcher” case with a mix of high polished surfaces and contrasting brushed elements. The case features a pronounced groove running through the middle section, following through to the lugs, and has a curvy, rounded appearance. It’s a thick case, measuring a total of 14.1mm tall, but over 5mm of that height belongs to the domed crystal – Christopher Ward says the case itself is 8.55mm thick. Despite its overall height, Christopher Ward has gone to great lengths to create a softer and more organic shape for the Loco Classic, and while it might not work on every wrist, visually it certainly meets the brief of a more refined Loco. As an owner of a C12 Loco, I can say that while I enjoy the case quite a bit, the real draw of the watch is the movement and the dial, and the way those two aspects of the piece are integr...
WristBuzz
Baltic's rugged field watch goes full lume and full color, inspired by the dramatic terrain of southern Iceland, and now comes in a new 34mm case.
Hodinkee
What We Know Last year, Glashütte Original released a trio of porcelain-dial watches as part of its collaboration with Meissen, Europe's oldest porcelain manufacturer, dating back to 1710. Today, the two historic German houses are partnering again, this time to release a new porcelain-dial watch inspired by Jugatsu-zakura, a Japanese cherry blossom that flowers intermittently during the colder months. The "Cherry Blossom" Senator Meissen retains all of the original collaboration's specs: It measures 40mm wide and 10.2mm thick, is set in red gold, and features an exhibition sapphire crystal caseback. It also comes on a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a red-gold pin buckle. The dial is made of a thin slice of white porcelain that acts as a canvas for the hand-painted layers, which are fired at 900° Celsius between each layer to achieve maximum depth and intensity. Glashütte Original's lettering and Meissen's crossed swords logo are hand-painted near the center, but besides that, the dial has a blank format. The exclusion of any hour markers, numerals, or indices allows the cherry blossom motif, with its slender branches that extend upward and delicate, pale-pink flowers, to shine—punctuated only by solid-gold hour and minute hands. Powered by Glashütte Original's in-house automatic Caliber 36-16, the watch offers 100 hours of power reserve and operates at 4 Hz. The movement also features a silicon balance spring and a stop-seconds mechanism. (aka hacki...
Hodinkee
What We Know This week, Hamilton dropped the latest in their series of vintage-inspired watches. But where most brands lean hard on their mid-century offerings for their re-editions, here Hamilton takes a different tack, reaching deep into their archive to resurrect watches so old, they'd be better described as antique rather than vintage. So, it is with the Hamilton American Classic Cushion, which breathes new life into a century-old design. And before you ask, these aren't quartz fashion watches dressed up in vintage clothing; these are tried-and-true hand-wound mechanical watches. The new collection — and it really is a collection, with six models split across two case sizes — is directly inspired by cushion-case watches made by Hamilton in the 1920s. If they seem eerily familiar for watches designed 100 years ago, it may be because Cillian Murphy wore an antique Hamilton cushion watch in Oppenheimer. Here, those watches have been quite respectfully updated for 2026, and though absolute fidelity was not the goal here, these remain easily among the most faithful-feeling reissues we've seen from Hamilton recently. As I mentioned earlier, a big part of the appeal of these watches comes down to the choice to use a hand-winding mechanical movement in these watches, rather than the quartz movements so often used in these small-size vintage reissues. Here, Hamilton is using the H-42, a manual-wind caliber that is, in essence, Hamilton's branded version of the ETA 7001. It'...
Hodinkee
Backed by Breitling's House of Brands group, Gallet's return was hotly anticipated and closely scrutinized. Priced between $2,900 for a three-hand Flying Officer model with date and about $6,700 for the vintage-inspired 'Classics' models, replete with Breitling B09 hand-wound calibers, the revived brand's pricing at Breitling boutiques is certainly aggressive. Gallet's rebirth and price-category decision mark the most high-profile and ambitious attempt by the Swiss watch industry to reclaim a space it once owned but has largely ceded in recent years to so-called 'boutique' or micro-brands that have filled the gap left by traditional Swiss brands moving upscale.Over the past decade, brands have climbed the value-category ladder even higher, making fewer watches at higher prices. The so-called mid-tier premium—or luxury watches with an MSRP between $2,000 and $5,000—was once dominated by Swiss brands from Omega to Breitling to TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre. And while TAG Heuer still produces plenty of watches in the category, including the solar-powered quartz Formula 1, much of its development and marketing resources have been focused on new pricier versions of classic chronographs housed in titanium or other lightweight materials including the highly innovative, but eye-wateringly expensive, Monaco 'Evergraph' retailing at more than $28,000. Several of the new Gallet watches are available on a steel bracelet that is the same used on some Breitling models. Photo Cre...
Hodinkee
What We Know The 2025 revival of the Louis Vuitton Monterey was a curious moment for the brand. Certainly influenced by a recent surge in popularity for the original LV I and LV II watches among celebrities and vintage collectors, it was a small(ish) 188-piece run (priced at $60,000) meant to show the brand was paying attention to what was happening around it. While the original LV I was a quartz watch with several complications, the brand simplified the aesthetics with the revival—gone were the complications and the distinctive, busy dial with all of its markings, as the new Monterey was time-only with a mechanical movement. But that Monterey also demonstrated the craft of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, introducing a simpler dial in grand feu enamel. While it may have seemed like a small blip in the brand's overall plans, Louis Vuitton has more to say about the pebble-like designs from 1988 by Italian architect Gae Aulenti—the Monterey Ceramic, a duo of watches that focuses on the smaller LV II. Now, the Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramics are not part of a limited edition and officially enter the brand's permanent collection. The cases are faithful to the original, preserving the model's smaller 37mm case size and both original ceramic colors: green and black. The polished, pebble-shaped case is slightly thicker at 11mm, however, because it houses the automatic LFTMA01.02 caliber rather than the original quartz movement. Like last year's Monterey, the Monterey Ceram...
WristBuzz
Grand Seiko marks 25 years of the hand-wind 9S movement by going back to where it all started
WristBuzz
The latest Art Watch from Ressence pairs its orbital dial with a hand-drawn maze by Belgian artist Jules Wittock, and yes, it actually works as a puzzle.
Hodinkee
What We Know Alpina, the value-driven, adventure and outdoor Swiss watch brand, is chasing the sun (and artificial light) with some of its new releases. The brand is now, across more models, utilizing solar quartz movements manufactured by La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker majority-owned by Japan's Citizen Group, which also controls Frederique Constant and Alpina. Solarmetre quartz movements are now available in both the updated Startimer Pilot and Alpiner Extreme models. Solar quartz is a natural fit for Alpina, bringing more reliability, accuracy, convenience, thinness, and value to its lineup. Both Solarmetre quartz models are priced at $1,495, offering an aggressively priced entry point into the brand with a movement also found in LVMH-owned watch brands, including TAG Heuer. The AL-140 caliber, solar quartz by La Joux-Perret, runs for up to 10 months in total darkness after a full charge, boosting the grab-and-go appeal. The shift to solar quartz (both model lines remain available in mechanical automatic versions as well) makes these pieces more practical while shaving millimeters from the case measurements and significant dollars from the price. Let's start with the solar Pilot Startimer. The new look for the pilot watch model was unveiled at Watches and Wonders this year, and now, amid the slew of releases for Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is giving us the Startimer Pilot Solarmetre. Available in three versions: two steel-cased models and one in sand-colo...
WristBuzz
The historic Swiss name relaunches in 2026 with four purpose-built collections, manufactured by Breitling and aimed squarely at the modern adventurer
Hodinkee
What We Know As we walked around Geneva on day one of Geneva Watch Days, we saw signs being put up for Gallet, and I thought how poetic. On the eve of the brand's relaunch, it's certainly an exciting time for fans of the brand. The parent group, House of Brands—Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet—already relaunched Universal Genève earlier this year and is rounding out 2026 by bringing back Gallet today, with one of the brand's most enduring models, the Flying Officer, in two variations: the Flying Officer Chronograph 40 and the Flying Officer Automatic 40. Today's reintroduced Flying Officer arrives in four dial colors across two versions, all cased in 40mm steel. Case specs are shared across the range: 20mm lug width, a screwed-in steel caseback, cambered sapphire glareproofed on both sides, and 100 meters of water resistance. The chronograph case is 15.02mm thick with a 47.55mm lug-to-lug; the three-hand case is thinner, at 10.67mm, with a 47.49mm lug-to-lug. Both versions share a bezel with a city ring listing 24 destinations, mixing major international airports with more remote locations. The Flying Officer Chronograph 40 comes in light blue or black, both with tone-on-tone subdials, and runs the Gallet 23, an automatic caliber based on the Sellita SW510. It measures 30mm in diameter and 7.9mm thick, runs at 28,800 vph (4Hz), and offers an approximate 62-hour power reserve. It offers quarter-second chronograph timing with a 30-minute counter. The Flying Offi...
Worn & Wound
Fears has decided to add its first high complication by tackling one of the most complex of them all: the perpetual calendar. Charting new territory seems like just the right way to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary since its renaissance in 2016. The introduction of a QP to the flagship Brunswick line isn’t the only headline. The collection gets a new case architecture with wide polished bevels making it the thinnest Brunswick watch in the line at 9.4mm. The Brunswick has been a defining collection for Fears since its introduction in 2017, marking the first mechanical line of the modern era. Yet, the collection is also an homage to the brand’s past with a vintage-inspired cushion shape case, onion crown, and signature sector dial. The design mixes these aesthetics with distinct typography and numerals derived from a piece from the brand’s archives. It only feels fitting that this collection would serve as the foundation for Fears’ first high complication in 180 years.Even with the addition of day, date, month, year, and leap year indications that make up a perpetual calendar, Fears has managed to keep the Brunswick QP compact at just 39mm. When it comes to high complications, the composition of the movement is usually the main limiting factor when it comes to sizing. Here, we can thank the Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module, atop a hand-finished Sellita SW300 as its base movement. This caliber has been modified specifically for this watch, giving it its...
WristBuzz
A hand-wound monopusher with 1930s soul and a very modern calibre, dressed in blue or silver
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Bulova Starting off this week with a nice vintage Bulova dress watch. At first glance I thought it was an Accutron with the dial and hands, but it’s an automatic Bulova. The yellow gold fill case has a fancy etched bezel to go with the radial brushed dial. This gives the watch a low-key bling look that isn’t too loud. The case is in good shape, as is the dial and hands. This one is time only, no date window. The automatic Bulova caliber 11ALAC movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The watch comes on a handsome leather strap that really goes well. Great looking piece with a high quality movement that should be reasonably priced at hammer time. View auction here Vintage Omega Speedmaster Professional Here’s one that will not be easy on the wallet, but a vintage Omega Speedmaster is worth the money, it’s all that and a bag of chips. This example is from the late 1970s/early 1980s and is likely a ref 144.022, but don’t hold me to it as there are no pictures of the inside caseback or the movement. The iconic case looks unpolished with razor sharp edges on the bombe lugs. The tachymetre bezel is also in superb condition. The black dial looks original and super c...
Worn & Wound
Just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, we see the debut of a new haute horlogerie brand, brought to us in part by Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and the Rake, and a longtime fixture in the watch media landscape. The new brand, Legare, was founded by Koh and Guillaume Tetu, a watch industry veteran who counts Hautlence as well as TAG Heuer and Ralph Lauren on his resume. Koh and Tetu are incredibly well connected professionally, and the first watch out of the gate for Legare reflects that particularly well – this is the product of a lot of collaboration between many partners, and has plenty of pure watch nerd DNA in its inspiration as well. The brand’s first watch is the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, and takes inspiration from a rare pocket watch made by Albert-Gustave Piguet, who would ultimately become well known in the watch industry for his work on the Lemania 2310 caliber. But the watch that Legare credits with shaping the Chapter 1 is a pocket watch he created while a student at the Vallee de Joux School of Watchmaking in 1932, when he was just 17 years old. That watch featured two large split bi-metallic balance wheels, whose rates were averaged by a differential. According to Legare, only six total examples of this pocket watch were completed. Legare’s conceit in making the Chapter 1 is essentially an answer to the hypothetical question of what if Piguet’s idea behind this movement had continued to evolve? This is an entirely original movement architecture (and diff...
WristBuzz
Same movement, same 19mm lug width, same three-subdial layout. So why does the 3940G push over €92k while the 5140G sits closer to €51k, and which of the two is actually the smarter buy in 2026?
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega First up this week we have a nice vintage Omega presentation watch. The simple steel case is 35mm with slim, straight lugs that are crisp and unpolished. There is an award presentation engraving on the back for 25 years of service with the Dow Chemical Company, dated 1976. The dial is the classic Omega silver, with slim steel markers and hands and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The dial is also signed with the Dow Chemical logo, which is not too common with Omegas. The crown is original and signed with the Omega symbol as it should. The Omega automatic caliber 1022 movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Really neat vintage Omega award watch. View auction here Vintage Hamilton Thin-O-Matic Here’s another cool vintage award presentation watch, this time a Hamilton Thin-O-Matic Masterpiece from 1964. The 10k yellow gold fill case looks nice and unpolished, thin lugs. The back has an engraving for 25 years of service to the Nationwide Insurance company. The gold colored dial is clean and simple with applied gold markers and no date window. This gem comes complete with the inner and outer boxes and all the paperwork, including the instructions and guarantee pa...
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