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Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention Worn & Wound
Breguet s Genius May 28, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this second installment, Andrew examines the life and career of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and many other important watchmaking advancements. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) was a designer, inventor, and watchmaker. Being a master craftsman in the field of watchmaking earned him a prestigious clientele that included Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, alongside other international nobility, and the elegance and technical innovations of his designs were considered the height of style and fashion. Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image courtesy of Manufacture Breguet Breguet was born in Neuchâtel on the 10th January 1747, but it was in Paris that he spent most of his productive life. He is credited with the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches, the first shock-protection for balance pivots and of course the tourbillon. Every watch that left his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. He was a great entrepreneur and marketed his magnificent watches brilliantly. Perhaps his most ...

First Look - The New Generation of H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green & Purple Haze Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre May 15, 2024

First Look - The New Generation of H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green & Purple Haze

Moser’s Streamliner collection, a luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet, made a resounding entry in 2020 with a Flyback Chronograph. Unlike many luxury sports watches on the market, which vie for attention with their formulaic solutions, Moser’s design was fresh, verging on sensual thanks to its sleek, aerodynamic personality. A few months later, Moser unveiled […]

Introducing - The Charming Old-School Spirit of the MeisterSinger Enamel Edition 1Z Monochrome
Meistersinger Enamel Edition 1Z May 14, 2024

Introducing - The Charming Old-School Spirit of the MeisterSinger Enamel Edition 1Z

With their single-handed time indications, MeisterSinger’s watches offer a refreshing change of tempo to our fast-paced, hyper-accurate digital universe. Founded in 2001 by Manfred Brassler in Münster, Germany, the brand’s inspiration resides in the sundials and single-hand tower clocks of the Middle Ages. In 2004, the brand released a special watch called the Edition 1Z. […]

Hands-on - The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Shows Great Promise Monochrome
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph May 9, 2024

Hands-on - The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Shows Great Promise

As we approached the end of 2023, the landscape for those seeking an obtainable motorsport-inspired chronograph underwent a shift, offering a slightly broader array of options. This was spurred by the notable introduction of an extension to IWC‘s Pilot’s Watch series: the Performance Chronograph 41. Available in titanium to commemorate the brand’s enduring partnership with […]

H. Moser & Cie. Launches the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Launches Apr 24, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Launches the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine”

With its sponsorship of Renault’s Formula 1 team, H. Moser & Cie. has created a limited edition for the occasion, the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition. This combines the brand’s unusual cylindrical tourbillon with its sporty Streamliner presented for the first on a strap instead of a bracelet. Initial thoughts  In the wake of its deal with the Alpine Motorsports, Renault’s sports car division, Moser’s latest limited edition is hardly a surprise. The concept of an open-worked tourbillon in a modern, sporty case is not a new one, but this is technically novel thanks to the tall cylindrical hairspring inside the tourbillon carriage, made possible thanks to Moser’s sister company that produces hairsprings. Fortunately this is not a typical F1 watch dressed in team colours and sporting a logo. The entire face is devoid of branding and Alpine’s trademark blue instead forms the transparent sub-dial at 12 that contrasts with the anthracite bridges below.  The removal of the bracelet, however, also removes some of the character of the Streamliner. This looks less distinctive than the typical Streamliner on a bracelet. That is not a permanent problem since a bracelet can be installed, and since the case is steel, at presumably moderate cost. The Alpine edition retails for CHF89,000, a CHF10,000 increase over the recent Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton that has a bracelet but no cylindrical hairspring. All things consider, the premium is...

The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad Combines Adventurous Contemporary Watchmaking with Old School Craft Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad Combines Apr 17, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad Combines Adventurous Contemporary Watchmaking with Old School Craft

Very few things put a smile on my face quite like the Ulysse Nardin Freak. It’s one of the first haute horlogerie watches I can remember encountering, well before watches were ever a hobby or preoccupation,  in a glossy magazine advertisement that I probably saw while waiting for a doctor’s appointment or something else similarly trivial and forgettable. The Freak, though, has stayed with me. How could it not? It’s one of the most cleverly named watches ever made, for one. And its “no dial, no hands, no crown” concept continues to endure, and even after multiple decades of horological innovation surrounding Ulysse Nardin (which they very much had a role in kicking off) it remains every bit as avante-garde, insane, and completely delightful as its always been.  For the third straight year, Ulysse Nardin has brought just one watch to show at Watches & Wonders. The Freak S Nomad, a follow up to 2022’s Freak S, is a futuristic tour-de-force that pays tribute to classical watchmaking at the same time as it shows us something we’ve never quite seen before. The movement, an imposing flying carousel that rotates around its own axis, features two balance wheels posted at a 20 degree incline linked to a vertically integrated differential mounted to ball bearings. Every Freak movement, no matter how advanced or comparatively simple (this one is the most advanced there is) is an exercise in problem solving. When the movement itself is in motion, it adds a whole layer o...

First Look - Round Two of Le Régulateur Louis Erard x atelier oï Monochrome
Louis Erard x atelier oï Manuel Apr 17, 2024

First Look - Round Two of Le Régulateur Louis Erard x atelier oï

Manuel Emch, the head of Louis Erard, is on a mission to democratise watchmaking. By inviting watchmakers, designers and artists to collaborate on different projects and offering traditional métiers d’art dials to a broader audience at accessible prices, Louis Erard fills a big gap in the watchmaking scene. Once again, the brand’s versatile Regulator watch […]

Worn & Wound Celebrates the Opening of Grand Seiko’s First International Flagship Boutique in NYC Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s First International Flagship Apr 2, 2024

Worn & Wound Celebrates the Opening of Grand Seiko’s First International Flagship Boutique in NYC

Last Thursday, collectors, enthusiasts, and members of the Worn & Wound team came together to celebrate the opening of Grand Seiko’s latest Flagship Boutique, which opened on New York’s iconic Madison Avenue in February. The first boutique of its kind anywhere outside of Japan, this new space is a remarkable testament to the enormous popularity and respect Grand Seiko has garnered since its introduction to the international market in 2010. The event drew in collectors from all over the East Coast and offered a rare after-hours opportunity to explore Grand Seiko’s wide-ranging collection. New York City collectors have, for the last few years, been lucky enough to have access to Grand Seiko’s marvelous SoHo boutique. That space, which Zach Weiss visited in 2021, is a small, intimate affair, with white-washed brick walls and a narrow footprint, perfectly placed among the cast-iron architecture and red brick buildings of the neighborhood. This new Flagship Boutique is something else entirely. Entering the warm, sun-drenched main hall of the boutique from the cool New York City weather, you’re greeted by a space unlike any other, with tall ceilings, Japanese carpentry, and glass everywhere you turn. It’s an easy space to get drawn into but, like an iceberg, there is plenty that sits below the water, or in this case, below street level.  Following the large staircase to the lower floor reveals an intimate lounge space and bar. It was this wonderful space that played...

Just Because - My Lost Watch, an Endless Quest to Find a Perfect Daily Beater and a Personal Tale about the Seiko Sea Horse Monochrome
Seiko Sea Horse We Mar 29, 2024

Just Because - My Lost Watch, an Endless Quest to Find a Perfect Daily Beater and a Personal Tale about the Seiko Sea Horse

We, at MONOCHROME, rarely publish so-called “guest posts” and prefer to use our Collector’s Series as a platform to share our readers’ adventures with a watch. Today, we had to make an exception. The reason is simple. The story was just too good to not be shared. It tells a tale about a watch, something […]

Hands-On: Zenith’s New Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar References Worn & Wound
Zenith s New Chronomaster Sport Feb 26, 2024

Hands-On: Zenith’s New Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar References

Earlier this month, Zenith introduced their first new watches of the year at LVMH Watch Week. The new releases fill out their core Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original lines with new colorways and, for the Original, a classic complication reintroduced for the first time in a modern context. Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan got to spend some time with the new watches recently, and their thoughts, and Kat’s photos, are below. Stay tuned for a more detailed look at the new titanium version of the Chronomaster Sport coming soon. Kat Shoulders  When the Zenith Chronomaster Sport came out a few years ago, it caused quite the stir in the watch community. I always felt the watch was under-appreciated with its constant comparisons to the Daytona. What Zenith has done with the technology of the El Primero movement, renowned for its accuracy and high frequency, is amazing and it’s a shame this chronograph gets so often overlooked.  It was no surprise that when this year’s new Zenith releases came out, I was immediately drawn to the Chronomaster Sport series. While there aren’t any technical changes (not that they were needed), the new case materials were pleasant updates that have swayed me to consider picking one up. The titanium version is absolutely stellar and as many of you know, I’m not the biggest fan of the material, so that should go to tell you how cool this watch really is. The matte finishing is honestly the perfect choice for this sporty chronograph and I...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Minimalist Perpetual Calendar in “Smoked Salmon” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 21, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Minimalist Perpetual Calendar in “Smoked Salmon”

First seen in 2021, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar sports watch combines its signature complication and the bestselling integrated-bracelet design. Slated to be produced only during 2024, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon is a reference to Moser’s trademark gradient, or “smoked”, dials. The new perpetual calendar takes stylistic minimalism even further than its predecessor. The Smoked Salmon version does away entirely with any markings on the dial, leaving the gradient dial almost entirely unadorned. Initial thoughts The new perpetual is typical Moser in both style and function. The colour and name are subtly amusing, reflecting the brand’s frequent use of low-key humour in its products. The “Tutorial” perpetual calendar was more literal but equally tongue-in-cheek. More broadly, “Smoked Salmon” is a clever as it adds another twist to the gradient dials that are now synonymous with Moser, which helps keep the concept fresh, despite it having been iterated numerous times. Salmon aside, the latest Streamliner is a striking watch. Even though Moser has no shortage of minimalist watches, this one stands out for being so stark yet having a full featured perpetual calendar – and even a power reserve. Mechanically, the watch is identical to its predecessors, which is a good thing. The second-generation perpetual calendar inside is smartly constructed but also free of the bugs found in earlier iterations of the movement. The Perpetual Calen...

Formex x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Launch Meetup: the Recap! Worn & Wound
Formex x Worn & Wound Feb 14, 2024

Formex x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Launch Meetup: the Recap!

On Wednesday, February 7th, the Formex x Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer was launched into this world. A trio of watches inspired by sci-fi films, they combined sector dials with unique colors and Formex’ exceptional 39mm Essence case. Click here to find out more about that launch. To celebrate this wondrous occasion, we had a meetup at the Worn & Wound offices. Readers, Formex fans, and enthusiasts of all kinds showed up to check out the new watches in person, have some drinks, dine on some charcuterie, share some laughs, and have a great time. Over the last few months, we’ve had a handful of excellent meetups, such as last December in Austin with Carryology and just a few weeks ago in LA with the Collective. If you want to make sure to hear about our upcoming events, be sure to sign up for the Worn & Wound + Slack community, as well as our email list. We hope to see you soon! Oh, and be sure to check out the Formex x Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer at the Windup Watch Shop! Images from this post: The post Formex x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Launch Meetup: the Recap! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Seiko’s Latest Cocktail Inspired Dress Watches are Coming Soon Worn & Wound
Seiko s Latest Cocktail Inspired Jan 24, 2024

Seiko’s Latest Cocktail Inspired Dress Watches are Coming Soon

It can sometimes be easy to forget that there was a time when finding high-quality, affordable mechanical watches was a bit of a challenge. Back in those days, Seiko was the name of the game, and while plenty of worthy competitors have risen through the ranks to challenge the Japanese brand, Seiko still has a few tricks up its sleeve. Namely, Seiko knows how to make a hell of a dress watch. While there are plenty of iconic tool watches available at a true entry-level price point, finding great dress watches - especially mechanical ones - is harder to do. Since its initial introduction in 2010, the Cocktail Time series has offered collectors a genuinely exciting, and beautiful, dress watch at an almost shocking price. Today, Seiko has expanded its Cocktail Time lineup with the introduction of their latest collaboration with Hisashi Kishi’s famed Ginza watering hole, STAR BAR. This is not the first time Kishi and STAR BAR have collaborated with Seiko either. You might remember that back in 2022, Kishi and Seiko released the SSA455J1 and SSA457J1. That duo, based on the familiar colors of classic cocktails like the Martini, were distinguished by the cutouts in their dials reminiscent of a ripple on the surface of a drink. This time, Kishi and Seiko have released a pair of watches with inspiration taken from proprietary cocktails Kishi has created for STAR BAR inspired by the Tokyo skyline. What results is a pair of watches offered with beautiful gradient dials, perfect ...

The First Watch in Furlan Marri’s New “Editions” Series is Part of the Time+Tide Ten Year Anniversary Celebration Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri s New “Editions” Series Jan 23, 2024

The First Watch in Furlan Marri’s New “Editions” Series is Part of the Time+Tide Ten Year Anniversary Celebration

As Griffin mentioned in his recent write up of the new Studio Underd0g release, our friends at Time+Tide are celebrating their tenth anniversary this year. A major part of the festivities for the Australian watch website centers around the opening of their Watch Discovery Studio in Melbourne. The space is envisioned as a place to go hands-on with new watches from both independent and classic brands, all curated by the Time+Tide team. It’ll also be the home of new product launches and other watch community events, and there are plans to expand to London later this year. It’s an exciting concept, and serves as a starting point for an entirely new type of release from one of our favorite independents, Furlan Marri. The debut in their new Furlan Marri Editions line is tied exclusively to Time+Tide’s retail outlet, but in a twist, they’ll also be giving the general public a shot at the new watch as well.  Furlan Mari Editions releases are conceived as special boutique editions geared toward collectors and enthusiasts. Like other boutique editions, they’ll be available exclusively at a dedicated point of sale. In this case, the Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy will be sold exclusively at the Time+Tide retail location in Melbourne, and later London. But in addition to being sold in these brick and mortar environments, Furlan Marri has elected to also make these releases available to the general public once a year, for a limited time. This way, dedicated fans can ...

A Studio Underd0g April Fool’s Joke Becomes a Reality, Proving that Everyone Loves a Pizza Party Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g April Fool’s Joke Becomes Jan 19, 2024

A Studio Underd0g April Fool’s Joke Becomes a Reality, Proving that Everyone Loves a Pizza Party

What do Canned Unicorn Meat, a Tauntaun Sleeping Bag, an Apple Store Playmobil set with optional Line Pack, and the Studio Underd0g 01 SERIES Chronograph Pepper0ni have in common? All of these were introduced first as April Fool’s pranks before eventually transforming into real products (except the Apple Store Playmobil set - still a little mad at that one never making the leap). Back in the halcyon days of the internet, ThinkGeek specialized in this sort of April Fool’s nonsense. Today, Studio Underd0g is joining forces with Time+Tide to bring a little bit of that fun back. You may remember that back in April, Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc (with some help from Time+Tide’s Andrew McUtchen) released a teaser video for another in the brand’s line of food-inspired watches. But where previous releases like the Watermel0n, Strawberries & Cream, or Pink Lem0nade have been mostly content to draw their bright color palettes from eponymous inspirations, the Pepper0ni promised a more… overt take on its namesake. While it quickly became apparent that the idea of a pizza-inspired 01SERIES Chronograph was meant as a one-off gag to celebrate the internet’s favorite holiday, apparently a huge number of you pizza/watch enthusiasts reached out asking after the watch. Now, nine months later, what was once a joke has become a reality - well, actually, two realities - because the real-life version of the Pizza Party chronograph comes in two distinct flavors: Pepper0n...