Deployant
New and reviewed: L.Leroy Elyor Tourbillon
After a few years of hibernation, we see L.Leroy return with a new watch. A classical tourbillon, offered in three metal variants.
Results for La Joux-Perret
3,616 articles · 9 videos found · page 18 of 121
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SJX Watches
Bonniksen Reborn with Handmade Le Carrousel
Bonniksen makes its debut with the aptly named Le Carrousel, a 30-second carrousel wristwatch that will launch under the secondary banner of Naissance d’une Montre 4, which means it will be fully handmade. Le Carrousel’s completion date has not been announced, but good things take time, especially when made without the assistance of automated machinery. Left to right: Bonniksen co-founder and CEO Jason Chevrolat, Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydeggar, Bonniksen co-founder Maximin Chapuis, and David Bernard from the Time Æon Foundation. Initial thoughts It’s shaping up to be a big year for independent watchmaking, with a number of new and old names making their debuts. Bonniksen is among the latter, and looks to be a good-faith effort to do justice to the legacy of the inventor of the carrousel. While the rebirth of an old name is a familiar (if not tiresome) formula, one can’t help but appreciate the care with which the name of Bonniken makes its return. For one thing, the movement, which still exists only in sketches and models, is a true carrousel, built to co-founder Maximin Chapuis’ design after 5,500 hours of technical research. In other words, it’s not just an old name attached to an off-the-shelf calibre. The fact that it will debut as a Montre 4 in the Naissance d’une Montre project is another reason to take the effort seriously. If that weren’t enough, the brand has apparently been given the blessing of Bonniksen’s living descendants, which helps t...
SJX Watches
Stéphane Pierre’s Inaugural L’Impétrant is Bi-Retrograde
A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format. Initial thoughts The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric - and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience. The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands - one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche. The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector. The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch...
Worn & Wound
Our Favorite Regulator Under $5,000 - The Louis Erard x Worn & Wound Le Régulateur Limited Edition
The post Our Favorite Regulator Under $5,000 - The Louis Erard x Worn & Wound Le Régulateur Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Breitling Launches The Navitimer Tribute To Concorde In Steel, A Perpetual Calendar In Steel And Platinum, And A Full-Platinum LE
Breitling launches three limited-edition Navitimer watches, and one, in particular, catches my interest. I like airplanes and flying, and I get excited whenever I first fly on a new airplane, like an Airbus A350. I can’t say flying aboard Concorde would be my biggest dream come true because I once flew - yes, actually flew […] Visit Breitling Launches The Navitimer Tribute To Concorde In Steel, A Perpetual Calendar In Steel And Platinum, And A Full-Platinum LE to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hats-Off to Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome
The niche market for modern automatons just a little less tiny with Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome, a mechanical butler that pop ups and greet the onlooker on demand. In the tradition of historical automatons, Le Majordome is entirely mechanical and driven by complex clockwork, and made entirely by hand. Initial thoughts Hugo Rittener is a young automaton maker from the Vaud region of Switzerland. Having cut his teeth working with François Junod, one of the most celebrated talents in the field, Mr Rittener has now gone into business for himself. Against this backdrop, Le Majordome (“the butler” in English) represents a foundational release. Compared to the timepieces we sometimes call mechanical art, this tabletop automaton serves no actual utility; there’s no time-telling and no complication other than the bronze figure itself. In terms of pure mechanical art, this is as artful as it gets. Having taken over 1,000 hours of work, from design to finishing, the (Le) Majordome is a mechanical animation of a bronze-sculpted and gold-plated butler figure, which raises his top hat towards those who actuate the mechanism. Mr Rittener poetically describes the Majordome as an automate d’accueil - meaning “welcoming automaton”. The mechanical butler does in fact greet its audience, so it could be used as an extravagant welcoming party trick. Hugo Rittener will make 10 pieces of the Majordome in total, over the course of some years. Given the highly artisanal process...
Time+Tide
Is the COSC Excellence Chronometer Certification late to the party? Or just what the watch world needs?
Andrew O'Connor interrogates who and what COSC's stricter new chronometer certification is actually intended for.The post Is the COSC Excellence Chronometer Certification late to the party? Or just what the watch world needs? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Rado True Round × Les Couleurs Le Corbusier Special Editions
Rado has a long-standing collaborative relationship with Les Couleurs Suisse. Until now, this has led to 12 releases that used Le Corbusier’s 63-shade color system, which he described in his book Polychromie Architecturale. For its latest collaborative effort, Rado took it a step beyond just using the Swiss-French architect’s color system. While these watches each […] Visit Introducing: The Rado True Round × Les Couleurs Le Corbusier Special Editions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Inaugurates Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus
Audemars Piguet (AP) has formally inaugurated the Arc Manufacture in its historical home of Le Brassus. Designed by de Giuli & Portier of Geneva, the 23,700-square metre building will accommodate 700 employees under one roof - a number that would have been almost unheard of in the days of the historical établissage system. It connects to, and partially wraps around, the existing Manufacture des Forges, which was completed in 2008 and housed around 300 employees - an impressive figure for its time. The expanded manufacture should ultimately help boost production, especially considering it was designed with Industry 4.0 in mind. In other words, it’s a smart factory. This includes a Goods-to-Person (GTP) automated sort and retrieval system which uses 66 robots to pick the needed components, which are then delivered by robotic shuttle. While such systems are already used by high-volume luxury watch brands like Rolex and Omega, few haute horlogerie brands have the volumes to justify such an investment. According to AP, the GTP system saves an average of 15 seconds per operation. But more than scale, the new manufacture should deliver higher quality of product – namely superior reliability and less defects – across AP’s offerings. Like other new manufactures of its type, the Arc is extremely energy efficient as well thanks to 321 metres of electrochromic glass, which can automatically change opacity to regulate the amount of light, and heat, allowed in. The building...
Monochrome
Introducing - L’Epée 1839 Reimagines its La Regatta Clock with Enamel
For over 180 years, L’Epée 1839 has been one of the greatest specialists in high-end mechanical clocks, from traditional carriage timepieces to captivating, bold creations like the 1520-component Albatross and other time-telling objects developed in cooperation with MB&F;, cars and aeroplanes for Tiffany & Co., or an Imperial Hot Air Balloon for Louis Vuitton, to […]
Monochrome
Hands-on - L.Leroy Osmior Bal du Temps, Sounding the Return of a Famed Name
If I had to describe the return of L.Leroy, once one of France’s most illustrious watchmaking houses, with its name respected as much as those of Breguet and Ferdinand Berthoud, it was very theatrical. Founded in 1785 by Charles Leroy in Paris, it became famous for its marine chronometers, regulator clocks, and commissions for European […]
Time+Tide
Baltic’s Scalegraph takes to the high seas with the Transat Café L’Or Limited Edition
Baltic's latest take on its Scalegraph, produced to commemorate the French Transat Café L’Or yacht race, is designed as a skipper’s tool.The post Baltic’s Scalegraph takes to the high seas with the Transat Café L’Or Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Le Régulateur, Reinvented Yet Again
Louis Erard continues its prolific run of collaborations with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Worn & Wound, designed with the New York-based publication behind the value-focused Windup Watch Fair. Known for reinterpreting its popular regulator model through limited editions created with independent watchmakers and designers, Louis Erard now turns to a collaborator rooted in accessible watch culture, resulting in a design that blends layered dial architecture with the brand’s familiar 39 mm steel case and reputation for value. Initial thoughts If there’s one brand that has managed to build an identity around collaborations, it’s Louis Erard. Over the past few years the brand has released an astonishing range of limited edition series, usually built around the Le Régulateur platform, designed in collaboration with a diverse mix of watchmakers and designers. Notable releases include collaborations with Konstantin Chaykin and Vianney Halter, but these are just two among many. Louis Erard’s latest is a collaboration with New York-based Worn & Wound, a watch blog with an e-commerce business. Worn & Wound is also the driving force behind Windup Watch Fair, a collector-focused watch fair that takes place in New York, San Fransisco, Dallas, and Chicago each year. Worn & Wound’s primary focus is value-oriented watches, so the collaboration with Louis Erard makes perfect sense. Like most of the brand’s watches, Le Régulateur is a good value, managing to sneak in just u...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Louis Erard x Worn & Wound Le Régulateur Limited Edition
The post Introducing the Louis Erard x Worn & Wound Le Régulateur Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
The Owl is an Ambitious Debut from L’Atelier Bernard
Independent watchmaking continues to draw enthusiasm from collectors, particularly as a new generation of creators begins to establish its voice. New brands are springing up to cater to that demand, and one of the most interesting recent debuts is The Owl by L’Atelier Bernard, a sold-out six-piece limited edition that blends unconventional aesthetics with equally unconventional mechanics. Handcrafted in Fleurier by the young duo Bernard Van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz, the watch showcases now familiar elements of artisanal finishing and inverted-movement architecture, along with something rarely seen, a duplex escapement, which makes The Owl a more distinctive entry in the crowded field of emerging independents. Initial thoughts The Owl is handcrafted by a pair of young and talented watchmakers, the Bernards who gave their name to the brand. Clearly a show of their shared aesthetic sensibilities and technical chops, the Owl is meant to kickstart the independent creators’ artisanal venture in Fleurier. One of the Bernards is not new to independent watchmaking; those who closely follow independent watchmaking might remember Mr Van Ormelingen’s name from Van Bricht, a now-defunct brand for which he produced guilloche dials. The Owl is unexpected and intriguing on several fronts. Its aesthetics, mechanics, decoration, and layout seem almost at odds with one another, yet the result is a distinctly artisanal object. There is no conventional dial; instead, the watch pr...
Fratello
Introducing: The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Jumping Hour Aventurine - A Funky Party Piece
The Terra Nova is Bremont’s idea of a contemporary field watch. The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Jumping Hour Aventurine takes that concept a few steps further. Hell, it takes the idea of a field watch and transports it to a much more festive place than the trenches where the concept originated. The latest addition to […] Visit Introducing: The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Jumping Hour Aventurine - A Funky Party Piece to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium Chronometer LE
Independent and proudly small-scale, Brellum thrives carving its niche in modern Swiss watchmaking. Founded by fourth-generation watchmaker Sébastien Muller, the brand produces only 299 pieces per year, each officially COSC-certified, meticulously decorated, and sold directly to end consumers. Following the recent release of the Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE in steel, Brellum now offers a […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer
Today, we’ll go hands-on with the latest Brellum release. The Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer builds upon this month’s earlier introduction of a similar model in steel. Considering that this is the brand’s most feature-laden watch, it’s worth taking a closer look. With such small production runs, Brellum maintains an aggressive release schedule. […] Visit Hands-On: The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Chopard’s Striking Vision Fully Realised - L.U.C Grand Strike
Chopard marks 30 years of the Chopard Manufacture with the L.U.C Grand Strike – its most ambitious complication to date, a minute repeating clock watch with grande et petite sonnerie striking on a pair of sapphire gongs. This comes on the heels of Chopard’s sister brand, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3, making 2025 arguably the most significant year for Chopard, product wise, since the 1997 launch of L.U.C. Initial Thoughts For hundreds of years the sound of clocks coordinated human society. In fact, the very word “clock” comes from the Latin word clocca, meaning bell. Before the noise pollution of the modern day, the bells of clock towers could disseminate accurate time over several miles. It is only that many first complicated the first watches, which were made by clock makers during the 16th century, were equipped with strikes. In 2016 Chopard launched its first self-developed chiming watch, the L.U.C Full Strike, a two-train trip repeater with sapphire gongs. It is not much of a surprise, I’ve multiple people speculate that a grande sonnerie was the next step given the design depictions Chopard made with the Full Strike. Even the name, “Full Strike” sounds like the name of a grande sonnerie, not just a repeater. The Grand Strike is class leading technically, it’s only weakness, the middling strike work power reserve is easily forgiven when considering its size. Aesthetically, however, the watch struggles, at least for me, though the si...
Monochrome
In-Depth - Chopard Launches a Splendid Grande Sonnerie Watch, the L.U.C Grand Strike
On the occasion of Dubai Watch Week 2025, Chopard unveils the L.U.C Grand Strike, the brand’s most complex watch to date, with a Grande Sonnerie, a Petite Sonnerie, a Minute Repeater and a tourbillon regulator. Just like the brand’s Full Strike minute repeater, its acoustic merits are nothing short of extraordinary, in particular thanks to […]
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound and Hamilton are Hosting a Giveaway Party at Their Call of Duty Black Ops 7 NYC Pop-Up
Join Worn & Wound and Hamilton on Tuesday, November 18th for a Giveaway Party to commemorate their newest collaboration timepiece with Call of Duty Black Ops 7 by RSVPing via this link! This event will be held at a fully decked-out Hamilton x Call of Duty Pop-Up experience in NYC. A limited run of the Special Edition Khaki Field Autos will be on full display, along with other Hamilton watches that have been featured on the big screen. Make sure you’re ready to put your gaming skills to the test and try out the new Call of Duty Black Ops 7 in the Hamilton Gaming Lounge! Get inspired by a one-of-a-kind environmental installation by “perpetual artist” Michael Murphy featuring 61 anamorphic light boxes that you’ll need to see to believe. Bring your lume lights for a special in-person scavenger hunt mission. Plus, to make the evening even more exciting, the Worn & Wound team has curated multiple EDC items to complement this Special Edition Khaki Field from brands like OEG EDC, Able Carry, Maratac, Spring Made and Big Idea Design. We’ll be breaking down each of the items in the kit and-even better-giving each of them away to multiple attendees in a fun, raffle-style evening you won’t want to miss! Tuesday, November 18, 2025 6:30PM – 8:30PM EST Hamilton Pop-Up on Broadway New York, New York Address details will be sent once your RSVP is confirmed. An RSVP is required to attend the event, please complete the form once for each person in your party. RSVP via thi...
SJX Watches
Fabian Pellet Debuts with Artisanal L’Essentiel
Fabian Pellet emerged last year as one of the more interesting and unusual independents with the L’Essentiel. Where most new faces in the field are freshly-graduated watchmaking students, Mr Pellet was previously a watchmaking teacher. A Swiss native working in Tokyo since 2022, Mr Pellet is one independent watchmaker to watch. The new version of L’Essentiel looks virtually identical to the three-piece platinum limited run from 2024. This updated model is now housed in a titanium case, and even though the production is inherently limited, it extends beyond three pieces. Initial thoughts The watch itself appears unassuming at first: a simple time-only model with a white enamel dial and a case defined by fairly plain lines. But when taking a closer look at the finer details, especially when turning the piece over, this can’t be dismissed as just another time-only indie piece. The movement inside the watch is clearly meant to be the center of attention, thoughtfully hidden underneath the simple, pocket watch-like dial. The calibre was crafted fully by hand; Mr Pellet does not use CNC machines even for the cutting of the raw blanks for the mainplate and bridges. The movement is clearly heavily influenced by a historical watches, both visually and in terms of its construction, which adds to its flair. All of its qualities aside, L’Essentiel remains a time-only watch, which has become somewhat of a trope with both new and established independents. It seems like a new ...
Fratello
Serica Doubles Down On Vintage Charm With The Parade Ref. 1174 Linen Series
Late last year, Serica released the stylish Parade ref. 1174. It was the French brand’s first step in the realm of dress watches, and it garnered much praise. Now, Serica takes the Parade a step further with two linen dials, transporting us to the 1960s and ’70s, when linen dials were common in the watch […] Visit Serica Doubles Down On Vintage Charm With The Parade Ref. 1174 Linen Series to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Le Forban Sécurité Mer Introduces the Marseillaise, a New Diver with a (Very Strange) Rubber Bund Strap
I love a bit of fashion history, especially when it comes to how our modern clothes came to be. Take, for instance, the high heel. Did you know it was originally designed as a riding shoe in 10th century Persia, in which the heel was made to sit in the stirrup? Or that the jockstrap was originally for “bike jockeys” to help keep things comfortable on old (and presumably not so aerodynamic) bicycles? Or that the Hawaiian shirt, now synonymous with dads at Margaritaville, was first designed using Japanese kimono fabric in the early 1900s? All of that is to say that fashion is ever-evolving and with some quite surprising origins, if you ask me. Another accessory with an interesting – if not murkier – history is the bund strap. Some say the name comes from the word Bundesrepublik, while others say it’s from Bundeswehr (I try not to split hairs too much in German – as you know, it’s such a forgiving language). Some say the leather strap protected against discoloration of brass watch cases from skin perspiration, while others say it was to protect against the extreme temperature change of the metal for pilots. In any case, we know that a) the design originated among pilots during World War II and b) it’s a badass strap design that often doesn’t get enough attention. Which leads me (finally) to the release of Le Forban Sécurité Mer’s Marseillaise dive watch with a bund-style strap. The French brand has taken its 1979 Monnin model as the springboard (or sho...
Time+Tide
Featherlight through the bends: ArtyA puts on a show with the Purity Curvy HMS Mirror Titanium
Visually dramatic and eminently wearable, ArtyA's latest creation can be optioned with a mirrored caseback to better admire its movement.The post Featherlight through the bends: ArtyA puts on a show with the Purity Curvy HMS Mirror Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look - The Artistic Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari
If you are attending the sixth edition of Geneva Watch Days, don’t miss Bulgari’s retrospective of the Octo Finissimo’s impressive trajectory in the ultra-thin watchmaking arena since 2014. Alongside the record-breaking models is a new Octo Finissimo collaboration model made with Korean artist Lee Ufan, the latest in a long line of artists and architects […]
Monochrome
First Look - New Indie Brand Akhor and the Inaugural “Le Temps en Equilibre” Collection
Geneva Watch Days have become a major event on the watch industry’s agenda. The event is now a perfect platform to introduce new products and even new independent watchmaking brands. A case in point, the Geneva-based brand Akhor makes its public debut with an intriguing concept, Le Temps en Equilibre, built on a distinctive vision […]
SJX Watches
Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II
Part I of our story on the evolution of hairspring materials covered temperature compensation along with the development of the first specialised balance spring alloy, Elinvar. The story brought us to the 1920s, when scientist and horologist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) finished his work on nickel-iron alloys and watchmakers begun embracing Elinvar springs paired with mono-metallic balances. In this second part we turn to newer hairspring alloys, like the now-ubiquitous Nivarox. Then we look at today’s landscape and the future, touching on research done by the Swatch Group with alternative, niobium-based alloys and also the specialised but obscure Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring. Lastly we discuss silicon springs, which are growing more prevalent across a range of timepieces. Elinvar’s weaknesses Elinvar was by far the greatest breakthrough in self-compensating alloy hairsprings at the time. Guillaume considered Elinvar good enough and not needing further improvement - unsurprisingly since he was its inventor - but other watchmakers and engineers continued to experiment with iron-nickel compounds because Elinvar’s inherent properties made it a good, but imperfect, material. Even though the alloy behaved predictably with temperature changes, its physical properties were not ideal to begin with. Elinvar was a soft metal, which posed its own suite of problems for spring applications. The importance of softness in terms of hairspring performance is not related ...
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - The Lanzante 95-59, Honouring the 1995 McLaren F1 GTR Le Mans Win
I can assure you, your eyes are not deceiving you. Yes, this very much looks like a McLaren, and is, in fact, based on a McLaren, but is actually called the Lanzante 95-59. And for those with a passionate knowledge of racing, and more specifically the Le Mans 24 Hours, that should start ringing a […]
Time+Tide
Milano Watch Week’s hosting an “after party” - get ready for After Time in October!
Taking place from Oct 3-5 in Milan, After Time is a new watch fair from the organisers of Milano Watch Week focusing on accessible luxury.The post Milano Watch Week’s hosting an “after party” – get ready for After Time in October! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.