Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Uncommon Watches to Begin 2017 with a Bang, from Our Archives
We look at six rather uncommon watches to kick start 2017 on a high note. They include watches from Rolex, NOMOS, Habring, PSM, Moser, and Bexei.
535 articles · 54 videos found · page 18 of 20
Deployant
We look at six rather uncommon watches to kick start 2017 on a high note. They include watches from Rolex, NOMOS, Habring, PSM, Moser, and Bexei.
Deployant
We look at yet another six perpetual calendar watches, from Jaeger LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, MB&F;, H.Moser & Cie., and Bovet.
Deployant
This week, we focus on watches for the corporate world, featuring brands such as Vacheron Constantin, Nomos, Seiko, JLC, H. Moser & Cie., and Lange.
Deployant
A short guide for a perpetual calendar watch, with pieces from IWC, A Lange and Sohne, H. Moser and Cie, Jaeger LeCoultre, Vianney Halter and Ulysse Nardin.
Deployant
A short guide to purchase watches from independent watchmakers, with pieces from MB&F;, H. Moser, Vianney Halter, Romain Jerome, Sarpaneva, and Speake-Marin.
Revolution
Are you the owner of a perpetual calendar from Patek Philippe or the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual 1? If you are, you’ll know that such watches are designed to not require adjustment until the year 2100. The highly complex movement is able to distinguish the number of days within a month and whether it […]
Revolution
During the same week as the SIHH, the GenevaTimeExhibition, the show for the independents brands, was held in the centre of Geneva. Besides Hautlence, brands like Moser & Cie, Cabestan, Heritage and Speake-Marin were among the 34 exhibitors. The location was really cool and looked in fact, like an old former hydroelectric station. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a65/Pasha_1950/GTEbuilding.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a65/Pasha_1950/InsideGTEbuiding.jpg […]
Fratello
Watches and Wonders 2026 hasn’t officially kicked off yet, but the announcements are already here! Fans of Czapek and its popular Antarctique collection will be happy with today’s news. We also feel that it will attract new collectors. Titanium is the focus, and the brand uses it in good measure across a trio of Antarctique […] Visit Czapek Introduces A New Antarctique Collection In Titanium to read the full article.
Monochrome
Louis Moinet’s 1816 Compteur de Tierces, or “thirds counter”, was originally designed to measure the speed of moving stars. Endowed with a start, stop and reset function and a balance wheel beating at an impressive high frequency of 30Hz or 216,000 vibrations per hour, his novel stopwatch could time events to the 60th of a […]
SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud (FB), Chopard’s haut de gamme sub-brand, introduces its first flying tourbillon just weeks before Watches & Wonders. The Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 is exceptional in both quality and price, presenting almost everything of interest on the dial side - chain and fusee included - along with hacking and zero-reset seconds. The dial-side spectacle will be the calling card of the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. Initial thoughts The revival of long-dead masters’ names to sell unrelated watches is a practice that invites scepticism - and often deserves it. The Ferdinand Berthoud brand, however, is a different matter. There is nothing cynical about it, and one suspects the man himself wouldn’t mind being associated with some of the finest mechanical watches being made today - in his home town, no less. A different name on the dial, Scheufele perhaps, might still feel more authentic, but that’s a minor quibble with what is otherwise an overwhelmingly high quality watch. The latest take on the brand’s chronometer-inspired formula adds one of my favourite features: a zero-reset seconds hand. Though I prefer the designs of the brand’s past projects, the FB 2TV.1 suggests the team at FB understands what the market wants, and the movement-as-a-dial aesthetic is hot right now. The flying tourbillon is new for the brand, in both technique and aesthetics. Until now the brand’s massive revolving regulators were secreted away on the...
Fratello
Having the exact time on hand is nothing special nowadays. Almost always, you’re connected to satellite time (GPS), which is based on atomic clocks in satellites that measure time to 100 billionths of a second. Optimizing accuracy through mechanical parts is a whole other matter and an age-old quest. A chronometer - the word derives […] Visit Chronometer Watches Matter - Why The World Of Luxury Needs Accuracy to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Resonance watches are among the most elusive machines in modern watchmaking. Creations such as F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance perform well at auctions, commanding high prices. While their rarity and appeal are undeniable, watches that purport to harness resonance tend to be viewed with a degree of skepticism. A measure of skepticism is understandable - the concept of sprung balances becoming almost magically coupled is anything but straightforward and requires a profound understanding of oscillators in general. This story seeks to shed some light on the concept of coupled oscillators by explaining the two models of coupling and explore the nuances of each system. Before exploring resonance, the reader is encouraged to review the basics of sprung oscillators and isochronism in order to become more familiar with the hairspring and balance wheel model. The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription No. 2 sold for more than CHF3 million in November 2025. A confusion of terms First, the term resonance itself requires definition. In classical physics (mechanics, electrical engineering, signal processing, etc.) resonance is a phenomenon where a system vibrates under the influence of an external driving force that matches the system’s eigenfrequency (natural frequency). This is to say that a system at rest, which includes mass and spring elements, can be excited into a state of resonance by an external force when particular conditions are met. An imp...
Hodinkee
YouTuber Adrian Barker's first watch collab is with Christopher Ward, and it's a testament to the purpose-driven diver with a bit of MilSub inspiration for good measure.
Teddy Baldassarre
One of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: chronograph vs. chronometer. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. This is, again, the simplest way to look at it. But there’s a bit more to both chronometers and chronographs that a knowledge-hungry watch enthusiast might want to digest - including the fact that the terms are not interchangeable but also not mutually exclusive. [toc-section heading="Chronometers Defined"] Our original, classical definition of a chronometer can be traced back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to determine longitude in order to avoid the perils of running aground or veering hopelessly off course. The man credited with developing the first of these “marine chronometers” was legendary British watchmaker John Harrison; his invention facilitated the celestial navigation used at the time by navigators at sea to determine their ship’s position in coordination with a sextant. Marine chronome...
Monochrome
By and large, most information on your watch comes from the dial. Sometimes there are functions on the back, like a power reserve indicator or an addition to the case, like on the Pierre Kunz Spirit Diver with a Boyle-Mariotte depth gauge that can measure down to 80 metres. Functional watch bezels, however, add functionality […]
Hodinkee
The founder of Brooklands Watch Company will discuss the fundamental question: What is speed without time to measure it?
Monochrome
Time is a little more than a measurement of our observable universe. For example, the Earth rotates on its axis counterclockwise every 24 hours, so we measure a day based on this consistency. The Earth also revolves around the Sun every 365 days, so we measure a year based on that consistency. That said, why […]
Fratello
The chronograph and dive bezel are, I would argue, two of the most useful horological “bonuses” available to us watch consumers. Essentially, both do the same thing - measure elapsed time. Technically, there’s much more that each can do, but that is the function they share. The way they measure elapsed time, however, is different, […] Visit The Chronograph Vs. The Dive Bezel - Which One Is For You? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
What happens when you add a WWI naval camouflage to a tool watch and throw in a pinch of radioactive gas for good measure?The post Oracle Time teams up with Ball with dazzling results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
When Löbner announced its return in 2023, after nearly 80 years of absence, it reignited a legacy of precision timing born in Prussian workshops in the 19th century. From the pioneering “Tertienzähler” that could measure hundredths of a second as early as 1881, to massive clocks that timed thousandths of a second, Löbner made its […]
Worn & Wound
Love it or hate it, Bell & Ross is committed to their iconic, oversized, and squared-off designs. But despite what their haters say, they don’t just do squares. Or rather, they layer other shapes over squares sometimes. Confused? Good. Let’s get into it. The brand’s popular BR-03 Diver platform is home to a healthy handful of references, all of which measure in at 42mm in diameter, and feature the brand’s classic “circle within a square” design that varies in color and material between models. Basically, the iconic Bell & Ross square case remains, with a diver’s bezel laying on top, giving each model a stacked, utilitarian aesthetic. The design is effectively functional and deeply polarizing, as is B&R;’s forte. Last year, the French brand began updating BR-03 Diver timepieces by introducing optimized changes to the movement and materials, ceramic bezels and inserts, and revised typeface, hands, and strap designs. The latest BR-03 Diver release, the Lum Outline, is perhaps the most emblematic of the line’s emphasis on functionality and capability without sacrificing stylistic panache. The Lum Outline’s case, bezel, dial, and strap options-one rubber, and the other black synthetic fabric-are all a uniform matte black. Normally, I would say that this is tame or even boring, but the micro-blasted texture of the ceramic gives the watch a more interesting and layered look than a monochrome design usually would. The case is a solid 13.35mm thick, and...
Teddy Baldassarre
In its relatively young existence, Nomos Glashütte has become one of the most popular and successful German watch brands as well as probably the most accessible to newer (and younger) collectors. Nomos’s success - which includes an impressive string of German design awards - has resulted from a combination of sensible pricing, classical Bauhaus design, and creative forays into color, with a bit of mechanical innovation thrown in for good measure. Read on for an in-depth look at today's Nomos Glashütte collection, along with some background on the brand. A Rebirth in Glashütte It was just two months after the Fall of the Berlin Wall, in January 1990, when Roland Schwertner, a photographer and tech-savvy entrepreneur from Düsseldorf, founded Nomos in the East German town of Glashütte, deriving its name from the Ancient Greek god of law. Before World War II and the subsequent Cold War that partitioned Germany into two nations, the town (above), outside of Dresden in the state of Saxony, was a world center of watchmaking. The foundation of Nomos - along with the revival of historical watch brands like A. Lange & Söhne and the evolution of the conglomerate known as Glashütte Original into a luxury watchmaker - spearheaded the rebirth of Glashütte’s horological heritage in the new, reunited Germany. What set Nomos apart from most of the other manufacturers in Glashütte, then as now, is the company’s clean, modernist aesthetics as well as its relatively...
Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant proved that a perpetual calendar watch could be priced within reach of the general market with the release of their original Classic Perpetual Manufacture back in 2016. Nine years later, the Geneva-based brand’s redesigned and refined new Classic Perpetual looks to continue that tradition. Housed in a steel 40mm case that sports slimmer lugs and softer angles than previous models, the new Classic promises elegance and functionality in equal measure. The salmon “sunray” dial and silver diamond-cut indexes ooze cocktail party elegance, but keep the color scheme in check in order to draw full and worthy attention to the complications: a date counter at 3 o’clock, moonphase at 6, weekday counter at 9, and month and leap year counter at 12, all of which are stepped to add dimension to the dial. A discreet sector dial minute track runs the perimeter for a touch of vintage flair, while the Frederique Constant signature sits below the moonphase window at the 6 position. None of these features will be a surprise for seasoned calendar collectors, of course, but the combination of the salmon dial, silver dauphine hands and indexes, and subtly reshaped Classic case will draw appreciation from those in the market for a dress watch that punches above its price point. The included dark brown alligator leather strap adds another point of class to the Classic, as does the onion-style crown-this is a watch to be worn while toasting a great achievement in the ...
Monochrome
Perpetual calendar chronograph watches are remarkable in their ability to measure the fleeting seconds of the present moment and given the right conditions, the passing of days, months, and years far into the future – perhaps even into eternity. Thus, a good title for this review could be From Here to Eternity, the same as […]
Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso thinks that on a qualitative and technical basis, the Grand Seiko SBGZ003 should be on the radars of open-minded collectors who value innovation and refinement in equal measure.
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we begin a two-part series on vintage chronographs. Apparently, our listeners like hearing about these complicated watches that measure elapsed time. Note that the watch content starts after approximately 25 minutes. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie […] Visit Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 1 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Though I’m still confused on the pronunciation of Porsche (is it porsch or porsh-uh?), there is no mistaking the impact the brand has had on the automotive and design worlds. And, what the hell, let’s throw the watch world in, too, for good measure. Since 1972, with the release of the first all-black chronograph, Porsche Design has been producing watches that might take the sting out of not being able to afford a brand-new 911. Now, with their latest iteration, the Chronograph 1–F.A.T. 2025 Edition, we see both the evolution of Porsche Design’s timepieces while also a nod to their own heritage. Taking the design principles of Ferdinand Porsche, the design team built almost an inversion of the original Chronograph 1 from the 70’s. While they have maintained 40.8mm black titanium carbide case, they’ve inverted the design with a white dial. Not only is this a first for Porsche Design’s watches, but it also serves a functional purpose: the dial is completely coated in white Super-LumiNova, making it readable in total darkness. This is one example of how the Chronograph 1 – F.A.T. sits right at the meeting point between form and functionality. It’s the hidden Easter eggs of this watch that show how proud Porsche is of their heritage. Take, for instance, a Porsche 962 silhouette on the hour counter and a subtle “962” on the 6 o’clock subdial. One of my favorites is the F.A.T. International logo appears under the date, while the English day display replace...
Time+Tide
Contemporary and classical in equal measure, this Chronomaster Revival A3818 'Cover Girl Carbon' is the lightest watch Zenith has ever made.The post Zenith & Revolution complete their trilogy of ‘Cover Girls’ with the lightest Zenith yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Presented in 2024, the Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph is a modern reinterpretation of one of the brand’s 1960’s models, the Faux Chronographe, a simplified and affordable take on the chronograph watch. Produced in large quantities, it allowed users to measure short time intervals by initiating and halting the independent central seconds hand. If the modern […]
Monochrome
While the Speedmaster started its life as a racing chronograph destined to measure average speeds (hence its name), it quickly changed vocation when, during the 1960s, it became the watch of choice for US Air Force pilots and, of course, NASA astronauts. From there, the Speedmaster became one of the most famous pilot’s chronographs and […]
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