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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.
Materializing Forgotten Horology: Introducing The New Watch Brand Legare And Its Chapter 1 AGP Inverted Fratello
TAG Heuer Hautlence Aug 18, 2026

Materializing Forgotten Horology: Introducing The New Watch Brand Legare And Its Chapter 1 AGP Inverted

Meet a high-end watch brand built on a deep love for everything horological and ample experience to bring the founders’ original vision to life. Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and The Rake, and watch industry veteran Guillaume Tetu, who worked for TAG Heuer, Hautlence, and Ralph Lauren, started Legare to unearth long-lost horological treasures and […] Visit Materializing Forgotten Horology: Introducing The New Watch Brand Legare And Its Chapter 1 AGP Inverted to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted - The First Watch From A New Brand By Wei Koh And Guillaume Tetu Hodinkee
Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted Aug 18, 2026

Introducing: The Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted - The First Watch From A New Brand By Wei Koh And Guillaume Tetu

What We Know If you've been on "Watch Instagram" since Watches & Wonders, you've likely seen today's big launch. From the minds of Wei Koh and industry insider Guillaume Tetu, the new brand Legare (from the Latin meaning "to bequeath") has been shared around during an extended soft launch to potential clients and some press, starting back during the big watch fair. However, their first watch, the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, didn't officially launch until today, so if you've been looking for coverage and not finding it, that's why. The Chapter 1 AGP Inverted comes in two distinct executions and immediately caught my attention because of the reference that inspired it (and from which it takes its name). Because of that, it's a watch expressly made for deep-cut watch enthusiasts who know their history and appreciate independent watchmaking. In 1932, a 17-year-old student named Albert-Gustave Piguet undertook a watchmaking challenge that only five others at the Vallée de Joux School of Watchmaking would do from 1932 to 1934: he made a pocket watch regulated by two large split bimetallic balance wheels, averaged by a differential. These six examples are as coveted as they are influential to the watchmaking space. One inspired Philippe Dufour's "Duality." Even more influential was Piguet himself, who later worked at Lemania and on the caliber 2310. Now, his double-balance watch has been revived again by Legare. The watch closely resembles the movement of the Piguet pocket watch, wi...

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Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles SJX Watches
Ming ly minor variations have Aug 18, 2026

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles

Having explored several concepts related to energy systems in watchmaking, from mainspring barrel capacity to automatic winding and the chain and fusee, our technical series continues with a detailed examination of how that energy reaches the escapement. A vital part of all watch movements, gears are usually taken for granted and generally not given much thought. But upon closer look, gear tooth profiles vary in shape and size. These seemingly minor variations have big implications and reveal various calculated trade-offs. We take a closer look at the different gear profiles used in watchmaking and review their particularities and evolutions over time.  History and curves Mechanical timekeeping is inextricably linked to the concept of gears and transmissions. Long before the invention of the hairspring, early craftsmen and horologists were already using toothed wheels in conjunction with weights, verge escapements, and pendulums to measure the passage of time.  Historically, gear-cutters were separate professionals who catered to clock makers. Horological lore has it that the tooth profiles used during the 1600s were traced after the thumb’s shape, although it’s difficult find evidence for this theory. The invention of the hairspring marked a step-change in the technical evolution of the watch, and the later development of detached escapements enhanced precision further. These advances revealed transmission problems that had previously been masked by larger timing er...

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Hands-on - The Summer Vibes Of The Nomos Club Campus Full Rose and All Olive Monochrome
Nomos Club Campus Full Rose Aug 17, 2026

Hands-on - The Summer Vibes Of The Nomos Club Campus Full Rose and All Olive

Do you know many brands that embrace colour as confidently as Nomos Glashütte? Watchmakers often introduce brightly coloured dials as limited seasonal releases, yet Nomos has made them part of its identity, particularly within the Club Campus collection. We have seen everything from Future Orange and Absolute Grey to Starlight and Night Sky, Nonstop Red […]

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Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review (WV211B): Am I Stuck in a 7-Year Dream with the Inception Watch? WatchRider
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review Aug 17, 2026

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Review (WV211B): Am I Stuck in a 7-Year Dream with the Inception Watch?

I added the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 (Ref. WV211B.BA0787) to my collection back in 2019. Since then, I’ve been wearing it through various phases of daily life, travel and work. This review is not going to be filled with breathless hype or exaggerated claims about horological perfection. Instead, it is an honest, personal look at what it is actually like owning this specific Carrera. If you are considering buying one on the pre-owned market, this review is for you. And yes, we definitely need to talk about Inception. If you are short on time, here are the Pros and Cons The Pros: Timeless Dimensions: The 39mm case is extremely comfortable, versatile and avoids aging poorly with changing fashion trends.   Exceptional Build Quality: Punches well above its price point with crisp case edges, alternating polished and brushed steel, dual sapphire crystals and a beautifully finished bracelet. Cinematic Pedigree: While it shouldn’t be the only reason to buy a watch, the connection to Inception adds a layer of enjoyable history to the piece. Reliable Movement: The Calibre 5 is a robust, well-known movement that will never be difficult or exorbitantly expensive to maintain. The Cons: Water Resistance: 50 meters with a push-pull crown restricts this watch to land-based activities. Lug Width: The 19mm lug width makes sourcing third-party straps slightly inconvenient.   Lack of Clasp Adjustment: Achieving the perfect bracelet fit relies strictly on adding or removing h...

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The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Neo-vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre Aug 17, 2026

The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre

Neo-vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre is an enthusiast’s delight. The watch that crystallized this for me is a Reverso Classique reference 252.8.86. It is a steel, manually wound example from the mid-2000s that recently crossed the block at auction. On paper, it is an unremarkable watch. No complications, no complications, and a relatively humble (for the brand) view […] Visit The Quiet Case For Neo-Vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre to read the full article.

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Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa Fratello
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Aug 17, 2026

Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa

The race might have finished, but the watch remains. The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa also looks good when you’re not behind the wheel of a Mercedes‑Benz 300 SL Gullwing storming the 968 meters-high Raticosa pass in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. This Lucent steel chronograph with its eggshell dial is an all-year, all-rounder that looks […] Visit Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa to read the full article.

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A Dashboard Clock Gives Birth to the Louis Vuitton x Singer Porsche 911 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Aug 17, 2026

A Dashboard Clock Gives Birth to the Louis Vuitton x Singer Porsche 911

A cult brand specialising in “restomod” Porsche 911s, specifically the 964, Singer Vehicle Design’s latest commission is pair reimagined by Louis Vuitton. The Porsche 911 Reimagined by Singer – Classic and – Classic Turbo are striking examples of engineering, artisanal craft, and luxury branding all rolled into one. The pair of 911s originated with an order for a mechanical dashboard clock for a prior Singer commission, which led the two brands to collaborate on this duo. Both cars are naturally fitted with a hand-wound, eight-day clock fitted into the dashboard, but which can be removed and transformed into a desk clock. And the Turbo also include an ivory ceramic Tambour wristwatch as a bonus. The dash clock inside the 911 Classic Initial thoughts Interestingly, this pair of 911s is more of a collaboration between Singer and Louis Vuitton’s watch division rather than the wider company. The dashboard clock request that gave birth to these two cars began with a Singer 911 parked outside a Louis Vuitton watch event several years ago. The two 911s underline the long established common denominations between cars and watches, ranging from fine engineering to a shared audience. Many have come before, from Porsche Design and IWC, Ferrari and Girard-Perregaux, to today’s McLaren and Richard Mille. The Singer 911s stand out for being one-offs – both are beautifully executed – and priced at a level that reflects the strength of the demand for ultra-high-end objec...

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The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over Fratello
Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Aug 16, 2026

The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over

Ask me about my current favorite Citizen models, and I’ll quickly point to the brand’s Series 8 watches. It’s Citizens’ collection of modern mechanical watches that falls somewhere between the high-end “The Citizen” line and the brand’s affordable offerings. The Series 8 collection was unveiled in 2021, and two years later, the brand added the […] Visit The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over to read the full article.

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Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Aug 16, 2026

Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001

The introduction of the distinctly different-shaped Cubitus collection in October 2024 didn’t go unnoticed. Patek Philippe stated that the Cubitus collection’s mission is “to offer a new reinterpretation of the ‘elegant, sporty’ style” through a design in which the square bezel adopts rounded corners, “blending the square, the circle, and the octagon.” When you look at the basic […] Visit Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 to read the full article.

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The ABCs of Time - The History of Metal Bracelets for Wristwatches Monochrome
Rolex Gérald Genta Aug 15, 2026

The ABCs of Time - The History of Metal Bracelets for Wristwatches

With few exceptions, metal bracelets are a 20th-century phenomenon, really surfacing in the 1920s as wristwatches became a cultural and fashion phenomenon. Three names are generally recognised as part of the rise of contemporary bracelets – Rolex, Gérald Genta and Gay Frères – although there’s much more to the story, and the latter arguably plays the […]

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Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum Fratello
Aug 15, 2026

Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum

Last year, Thomas went hands-on with the HP Hercules Hand-Wound Double-Barreled. Today, I’m going to do exactly the same. However, this time the watch doesn’t feature a stainless-steel case but rather a fully polished tantalum one. As you might know, tantalum is an extremely dense metal, which makes the watch much heavier and also harder […] Visit Reaching The Top With The Heavyweight HP Hercules In Polished Tantalum to read the full article.

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The Petrolhead Corner - Singer and Louis Vuitton Go To Extremes With Two Bespoke Porsche 911s Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Go Aug 15, 2026

The Petrolhead Corner - Singer and Louis Vuitton Go To Extremes With Two Bespoke Porsche 911s

Collaborations between watch companies and other industries come in all shapes and sizes, and extend well beyond the usual realms of fashion and art. We’ve seen pretty much anything we’d say, but every now and then, one comes along that surprises us, regardless of how natural the connection might be in hindsight. One such collaboration […]

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Tried And Tested: The CIGA Design Hunter Titanium Skeleton Automatic Fratello
Aug 15, 2026

Tried And Tested: The CIGA Design Hunter Titanium Skeleton Automatic

My first encounter with CIGA Design was with its Blue Planet model. In 2021, it won the Challenge Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), which obviously gave it some proper traction. Although CIGA Design has been producing watches since 2016, I’d say 2021 was really a turning point for the Shenzhen-based […] Visit Tried And Tested: The CIGA Design Hunter Titanium Skeleton Automatic to read the full article.

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Is The Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly What The Brand Needed? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly Aug 14, 2026

Is The Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly What The Brand Needed? (Hands-On)

Piaget’s released a new iteration of their Polo Signature Date, but does it truly embody the brand’s modern creative vision? Let’s find out! What We Love: Shapely, wearable case More distinct dial & identity The rubber strap – still comfortable! What We Don’t: Crown feels slightly small Dead zone when changing times Is it finally recognisable? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For as much as I love watches for their design, technology, or daring in either field, recognition must be recognised as one of the most important elements of a watch brand’s arsenal. When a watch brand goes ‘mainstream’ within the enthusiast community, it brings with it a significant amount of power within the watch world. But it’s usually easier said than done; scant few brands have managed to capture the attention of both hardcore enthusiasts and luxury lovers at the same time. Piaget is a brand that has perennially clung to the fringes of that audience. In the past, they hadn’t been able to tap into the enthusiast crowd with the same level of magnitude as some of their peers in Richemont. While one can easily point the finger towards characteristics like ultra-luxury and exclusivity, it hasn’t stopped other brands of a similar calibre from breaking through. So if not that, then what? Perhaps it’s due to a lack of distinctive visual identity, which in recent years has begun to change. While fans of the ...

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Review: the Sinn 544, a Tool Watch for Minimalists Worn & Wound
Chanel Aug 14, 2026

Review: the Sinn 544, a Tool Watch for Minimalists

Simple and sporty. That’s it. That’s the review. Well, sure, I can elaborate. Sinn likes to surprise us on occasion, and in the most Sinn way possible. Not by releasing something high-tech or with a ton of bells and whistles, though they occasionally do that, but rather by releasing something we didn’t realize we wanted as badly as we do. The U50 from 2020 is a great example of this. A simple concept, Sinn took their aggressive, modern dive watch design and shrunk it down to an easy-to-wear 41mm. It was a huge hit. Earlier this year, Sinn released the 544, a watch I don’t think any Sinn-head (not sure if that’s an expression) saw coming. Truly stripped down, the 544 is one of the cleanest expressions of Sinn’s no-nonsense, purpose-driven design philosophies. There is an expression I love that is attributed to Coco Chanel that goes like this: “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off.” It’s a great ethos not just for attire, but all things design. With the 544, Sinn has nothing left to take off, and that’s part of its charm. With that said, there are actually two versions of the watch (technically more if you include strap options): the straightforward 544 and the 544 RS, which replaces the white seconds hand with a fluorescent red/orange (they say red, I see orange). So, basically, the fully reduced model, and the model that kept one thing on. Well, I lacked the restraint to request the pure 544 as that hand looked sexy, so ...

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Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour At One Vanderbilt [August 2026] Hodinkee
Zenith Chronometer Open 1969 Boutique Aug 14, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour At One Vanderbilt [August 2026]

Earlier this week, we spiced things up a little by taking Hodinkee Happy Hour uptown to the Vandy Club. Before heading to the event space, guests arrived at the Watches of Switzerland One Vanderbilt showroom, where they were greeted by our Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys, and other members of the Hodinkee team. This gave several attendees the chance to be featured in a quick Wrist Check we filmed, which you can check out now on the Hodinkee Instagram. It was our first time hosting at One Vanderbilt, but the same energy and enthusiasm quickly filled the room (and outdoor terrace). Hors d'oeuvres—and plenty of watches—made the rounds as an evening of great conversation unfolded. Scroll through the photos below for a recap of the night. If you made it out, thanks for coming. For anyone who couldn't make it, be sure to keep an eye here on the site and on the Hodinkee Instagram for more information, as we will be announcing our next one soon! Left, Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys admiring an attendee's 2002 Omega Seamaster Professional Chrono Diver. Zenith Chronometer Open 1969 Boutique Édition. A closer look. A 42mm Tudor Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale MN21 in titanium. A Rolex Oyster Precision Reference 6426. The Hermès H08 Limited Edition for Hodinkee. Left, Hodinkee Head of Video David Aujero chatting with chef Jayesh Kumar. From top to bottom: the Tudor Black Bay 58 Nike employee edition with a custom band and an Omega Speedmaster 50th Anniversary. A closer look at the Omega Sp...

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