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Type XX Breguet

The 1954 French military flyback chronograph - reborn in-house in 2023.

Hands-On With The Volan Type One Tyre And Wheel Watches Fratello
Aug 6, 2025

Hands-On With The Volan Type One Tyre And Wheel Watches

Do you remember tyre watches? I had completely forgotten all about them until the founder and owner of Volan, Diederik van Golen, visited our Fratello office a year ago. Being a boat and car guy, he devised a modern interpretation of the tyre watch concept. These were only drawings back then, but they looked great. […] Visit Hands-On With The Volan Type One Tyre And Wheel Watches to read the full article.

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont Worn & Wound
Bremont It’s not Apr 8, 2025

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont

It’s not an exaggeration to say that my meeting with Bremont at this year’s Watches & Wonders was among my most anticipated. For better or worse (probably worse, if you survey watch industry vets, media types, and longtime enthusiasts) Bremont’s output dominated much of the conversation during and after last year’s event. It was the brand’s first Watches & Wonders, and the public unveiling of an entirely new look for the brand. As I’m sure many readers will remember, it did not go over particularly well. But 2025 is a new year, and a new opportunity for Bremont to crystallize in the mind of observers what this new era will be about. Because, to be sure, it will not be like “old” Bremont. That ship has sailed, and while some of the watches introduced this year are in direct conversation with Bremont classics, they are still distinctly their own thing. That’s not a judgement, but it’s the reason why some Bremont loyalists will continue to dismiss the new novelties, even if from a bird’s eye view they appear that they might be a return to form. By the same token, someone like me, who was never really a hardcore Bremont enthusiast to begin with, might see silver linings and positive steps forward for the brand.  This is perhaps a longwinded way of saying that Bremont’s output at Watches & Wonders this year was a mixed bag, but a big improvement over last year. More importantly, regardless of whether you like the watches they debuted at the show, the vi...

Our 2024 Watches of the Year Worn & Wound
H. Moser x Studio Underd0g “Passion Dec 31, 2024

Our 2024 Watches of the Year

It’s the last day of the year, and once again we’re closing out December with our “Watch of the Year” post. We asked Worn & Wound staff and contributors to pick their favorite 2024 release, and their selections, as always, reveal the huge scope of the watch world.  Happy New Year to everyone who has joined us in these pages all year – we can’t wait to see what 2025 has in store. And of course, be sure to drop your own favorite watch from 2024 in the comments below. Zach Kazan: H. Moser x Studio Underd0g “Passion Fruit” Collaboration  I’ve spent a lot of time over the last few weeks looking back through articles I’ve written and the camera roll on my iPhone anticipating what I might write for my own “Watch of the Year” submission. I also have the luxury of seeing what my colleagues and our contributors have picked for themselves, so I’m truly awash in end of year watch stuff, as I imagine most watch media types are right about now. One thing has become abundantly clear as I’ve scrolled, read, and thought about the last twelve months in watches: it’s been a really great year.  A narrative emerged early on, even before Watches & Wonders, that 2024 would be “slow” or “conservative” in terms of new releases. To a point, that proved to be correct. While there were certainly some very good watches released by the likes of Tudor, Rolex, IWC, and other big brands this year, they weren’t gamechangers or the watch equivalent of a pop song th...

Just My Type! An Interview With Watch Typography Designer Samuel Baker Fratello
Nov 24, 2024

Just My Type! An Interview With Watch Typography Designer Samuel Baker

If you follow my writing, you know I am an advocate for typography in watch design. It is an often-overlooked element that can make or break a watch. While I was developing my watch, typography designer Samuel Baker appeared on my radar. We ended up collaborating, resulting in a fully tailor-made typeface for my fledgling […] Visit Just My Type! An Interview With Watch Typography Designer Samuel Baker to read the full article.

Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared Fratello
Ressence Introduces Oct 3, 2024

Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared

Believe it or not, it has already been 11 years since Ressence introduced its oil-filled Type 3. At the time, it was the first oil-filled mechanical watch, and it debuted in both white- and black-dial versions. Today, the Belgian brand led by designer Benoît Mintiens reintroduces the black and white Type 3 with a few […] Visit Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared to read the full article.

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Sep 26, 2024

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Southeast Asian retailer Sincere Fine Watches is marking its 70th anniversary with a series of limited editions, with the latest being the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, equipped with a hand-wind, seven-day movement. The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition features a case and movement bridges of Damascus steel, a pattern-welded alloy composed of two types of steel that create a distinctive grained surface. Limited to 28 pieces, it follows Sincere’s prior anniversary editions, including the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon and H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD. An exotic alloy The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition combines the trademark Franck Muller tonneau-shaped case, an unusual case alloy, and one of the brand’s more interesting movements, a skeleton calibre with a seven-day power reserve. The Vanguard case is an evolution of the classic Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex, with modern lines echoed in the movement, which has a geometric and linear bridge layout. The case, crown, buckle, and movement bridges of the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition are made of an unusual steel alloy known as Damascus steel, or wootz steel. The material gets its name from the ancient high-quality steel used for bladed weapons over a thousand years ago. The modern-day Damascus steel employed here is created with powder metallurgy, namely mixing various steel powders before ...

Three Geneva Watch Days Takeaways From a First Time Attendee Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux H Moser & Cie Sep 12, 2024

Three Geneva Watch Days Takeaways From a First Time Attendee

For watch collectors, enthusiasts, and industry veterans, it’s kind of hard to believe that Baselworld hasn’t existed in a meaningful way since 2019. Covid (and a rapidly changing industry) killed the industry’s biggest trade show in 2020, and as soon the show was on life support, many began prognosticating about the future of large scale industry events. Over the course of the last five or so years, the watch world has settled into a groove, with Watches & Wonders (formerly the far more exclusive SIHH) largely replacing Baselworld as the big spring must-attend watch event, with an ever growing roster of brands exhibiting at the show, and even more taking meetings in unofficial capacities adjacent to it.  Baselworld being effectively replaced by another show was probably somewhat predictable, but a turn of events that fewer saw coming was the rise of Geneva Watch Days as a major end-of-summer tentpole event for the watch community. Originally conceived in 2020 as a way for a small handful of brands (Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F;) to bring watch collectors together in a pandemic ravaged year, the event has grown to over 50 official participants and many more exhibiting on the fringes, taking advantage of the influx of collectors and watch industry types on the city of Geneva while the event is up and running.   If you talk to people who have attended Geneva Watch Days since it began, you’ll hear a lot of chatter about t...

A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom Fratello
Armin Strom After talking Aug 26, 2024

A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom

After talking to Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, the two co-founders of the watch brand Armin Strom, it became apparent that they do things differently at their manufacture in the Swiss watchmaking town of Biel/Bienne. Ask them anything, and the two childhood friends who started a watch brand inspired by the open-worked creations of famous […] Visit A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom to read the full article.

VPC Debuts with the Type 37HW SJX Watches
VPC Debuts Mar 7, 2024

VPC Debuts with the Type 37HW

Founded last year by Thomas van Straaten, VPC is a Dutch micro brand making its debut with the Type 37HW. Mr van Straaten, who formerly works for an Amsterdam-based watch dealer and now writes for media platform Fratello, started VPC with the goal of creating the “ultimate” everyday watch in his words. VPC is short for Venustas Per Constantiam, Latin that translates as either  “beauty through constancy” or “charm through restraint.”  Featuring numerous clever details, the Type 37HW is the result of Mr van Straaten’s own experience owning, and later growing bored with, numerous watches that, in his view, featured compromised designs. He appears to have approached this problem forensically, considering everything from the bracelet end-links to the typography on the dial. Initial Thoughts The Type 37HW is an impressive debut that manages to stand out in a crowded segment of the watch market thanks to several interesting details. The central premise of the Type 37HW is that it is a “go anywhere, do anything”, or GADA, watch. Almost every aspect of the watch appears to have been designed with this use case in mind.  The Type 37HW offers goldilocks proportions, and is unusually slim at just 9.8 mm thick (including 2 mm for the domed sapphire crystal). The svelte profile is likely possible thanks to the use of a manually wound Sellita SW216-1. Unfortunately, the combination of a screw-down crown and a manually wound movement – one with a relatively short 45...

Hands-On With The Charismatic Tornek-Rayville Type 7B “Blakjak” Time-Elapse Fratello
Feb 24, 2024

Hands-On With The Charismatic Tornek-Rayville Type 7B “Blakjak” Time-Elapse

If you are a fan of classic military watches, these are good times. We have seen quite a few brands bring back military watches from the past. The latest addition to the modern reinterpretations of classic military-style watches is the Tornek-Rayville Type 7B “Blakjak.” But this is not just a simple remake. This is an […] Visit Hands-On With The Charismatic Tornek-Rayville Type 7B “Blakjak” Time-Elapse to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Lord Elgin with Dramatic Hooded Lugs, a Pair of Great Bulovas, and an Omega Constellation in Great Shape Worn & Wound
Hamilton Octagonal Men’s Watch  We Feb 16, 2024

eBay Finds: A Lord Elgin with Dramatic Hooded Lugs, a Pair of Great Bulovas, and an Omega Constellation in Great Shape

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! eBay Finds #92 Vintage Hamilton Octagonal Men’s Watch  We have a neat one to start off this week, a vintage circa 1970’s Hamilton octagonal gold plated presentation watch with the Exxon logo on the dial. I love these company branded dials, they really provide a unique look. The gold plated case looks new, and has an octagonal shape with both polished and brushed finishes, with a steel snap-on caseback. The white dial is clean as a whistle, with simple stick markers and hands, a day/date window at 3 o’clock, and of course the Exxon logo above the 6. It comes on a stretch bracelet that also has brushed and polished finishes and compliments the watch perfectly. Best of all this gem comes with inner and outer boxes and the original hang tag! View auction here Vintage Lord Elgin  Here’s a sweet vintage Lord Elgin dress watch from 1953. The 24k gold filled case measures 25mm wide, and has fancy bowtie hooded lugs. The case is in nice shape, with no wearthrough on the lugs, but I do see some brassing on the crown side of the case. The white dial is absolutely immaculate, with applied gold markers that are alternating Arabic numerals and little stars. Great piece that would look sha...

Ressence Introduces a Limited Edition Type 1 for Dubai Watch Week Worn & Wound
Ressence Introduces Nov 22, 2023

Ressence Introduces a Limited Edition Type 1 for Dubai Watch Week

Ressence continues to capture our interest and imaginations thanks to their ingenious time telling display, powered by their proprietary Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) module. The platform of circular discs orbiting one another is unlike anything else in watchmaking, and Ressence could probably dine out on this technology alone for years. But as releases like the new Type 1 DX3 prove, they don’t seem content to just make the same watch over and over again. The fact is, the physical characteristics of the ROCS system provide a great canvas for a design team to really go to town, and experiment with aesthetic choices that wouldn’t be possible on a normal watch.  The new Type 1 DX3 is a limited edition collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons for this year’s Dubai Watch Week. It’s the third and final watch in a series of collaborations between Ressence and the luxury retail group behind the Dubai Watch Week concept, and continues Ressence’s exploration of traditional Arab art. In this execution of the Type 1, the dial is a canvas for Arab geometric art, with a motif in gold and brown hues. The DX3 is a play on popular fumé dials, with darker tones at the perimeter and lighter shades in the center. Of course, like every Ressence, the smaller dials move throughout the course of a day, so the character of this effect changes gradually from moment to moment. Adding further to the dial’s visual complexity, virtually the entire surface is lumed, filled in a cloi...

TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000 Worn & Wound
Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision Nov 15, 2023

TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000

Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly that. It’s incredible considering that 40 years have gone by since Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision became a reality. Story has it that Ibe began to conceptualize what a truly shock-resistant watch could be when his own mechanical watch fell and shattered on the ground after a collision with a fellow pedestrian. In the early 1980s, a specialized team at Casio, nicknamed “Team Tough”, began to test and develop prototypes. During this time, Ibe famously found inspiration from a rubber ball on a playground. Eventually engineers incorporated this rubber core idea into the very first G-Shock, model DW-5000C, in 1983. Four decades of innovation and iteration later, Casio is proud to present the culmination of the latest and greatest in technology, material science, and coloration: The 40th Anniversary Full Carbon 5000 Limited Edition. Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly...

The Omega Symbol: Where Does it Come From and What Does it Mean? Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe s venerable Calatrava cross Sep 21, 2023

The Omega Symbol: Where Does it Come From and What Does it Mean?

The Omega symbol that accompanies the brand’s classical logotype is one of the most recognizable emblems in the watch world, up there with Rolex’s hallmark coronet and Patek Philippe’s venerable Calatrava cross. But what exactly does Omega’s iconic hieroglyph actually symbolize, and what is its meaning in the context of the Swiss manufacture’s watchmaking history? Put simply, the symbol that has long been identified with the Omega brand is a stylized version of the 24th and final letter in the Greek alphabet, called Omega. (If you went to a college that had fraternities and sororities, this probably isn’t news to you.) Much like its counterpart at the beginning of the Greek alphabet, Alpha, the symbolism of the letter Omega has been interpreted various ways throughout history. As “the first” letter, Alpha has become associated with leadership and dominance, i.e., an “Alpha Male” or an “Alpha Dog.” Omega, as the final letter, has been known to connote greatness in its own way, representing the culmination or ultimate expression of a great effort or undertaking. The Biblical connotation of “I am the Alpha and the Omega” - i.e., the beginning and the end, as spoken by Jesus in the Book of Revelation (below) - has also lent weight to the concept of Omega as representing the end of an epoch or, in more ominous but perhaps more horologically relevant terms, the End of Time. So what does all this have to do with a watch brand? Let’s start at the...

IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX Time+Tide
IWC celebrates 75 years Jun 17, 2023

IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX

There’s no doubt that IWC is one of the most important players in the pilot’s watch game. Without digging too deep, numerous legendary models have emerged, from the very first Mark 11 issued to the RAF in 1948 to the latest Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar. It is that very first Mark-series watch that is being … ContinuedThe post IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive Time+Tide
May 31, 2023

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive

Watches and military history have an unbreakable bond. You only need to think back to the very beginnings of the wristwatch as a tool. During the Anglo-Burma War and First Boer War, soldiers began to strap pocket watch cases with primitive soldered lugs to their wrists, which opened the door for a new market. Fast-forward … ContinuedThe post How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.