Hodinkee
The Horological Society Of New York Expands Financial Aid Programs With Donation From The Vogt Foundation
Tripling the size of HSNY's annual scholarship pool and establishing a new Independent Watchmaker Grant.
Results for Taste of Time 2026
34,497 articles · 171 videos found · page 180 of 1156
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Czapek Celebrates Ten Years with the All New Time Jumper
We’re heading into a big new release period as much of the watch industry descends on Geneva for the upcoming GPHG awards ceremony, and then heads to Dubai for the Dubai Watch Week festivities. There’s sure to be a ton of news made in the next two weeks as this year’s best watches receive their flowers and we get a first look at many of the new novelties that will close out the year as head into the holiday rush, and tempt us for 2026. Czapek, the Swiss indie best known for their Antarctique line of integrated bracelet sports watches, is first out of the gate among higher end independents with a new novelty just announced today. The Time Jumper is an audacious new piece made to celebrate the brand’s tenth anniversary, reaching back into Czapek’s roots before the current incarnation of the brand was incorporated, and also putting a new spin on a complication that has been all the rage this year. When I first heard that Czapek would be releasing something new and splashy to celebrate their tenth anniversary, my mind immediately began wondering “I wonder what kind of Antarctique they’ve come up with?” I should not have been so cynical, but it’s an unavoidable fact that the brand has really leaned into the popularity of the integrated bracelet sports watch platform since the first of these watches was introduced around five years ago. There have, of course, been many iterations, limited editions, and complications, and it probably would have been easy enoug...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Julie, a Unique Edition of the World’s Smallest Mechanical Planetarium
Any watch from Christiaan van der Klaauw that carries a planetarium is, by definition, special. Since the mid-1990s, this rare and spectacular complication has been the brand’s signature feature, conceived and calculated by Mister van der Klaauw himself. Recently, the brand, now under the guidance of Pim Koeslag, presented the fantastic Grand Planetarium Eccentric, the […]
SJX Watches
Interview: Marc Michel-Amadry, Managing Director of Girard-Perregaux
Appointed Managing Director of Girard-Perregaux (GP) in early 2025, Marc Michel-Amadry has over two decades of leadership experience spanning both the auction world and fine watchmaking. A former head of Sotheby’s Switzerland and Chief Commercial Officer of IWC, he steps into the role at a pivotal moment for GP, which has spent the past three years refining its identity as an independent brand, alongside its sister brand Ulysse Nardin in the Sowind Group. I sat down with Mr Michel-Amadry not long after he took office to discuss what he has in store. Our conversation touched on the enduring relevance of the Laureato, the renewed importance of in-house innovation, and his plans to restore GP to its former glory. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: You’ve covered a wide range of the industry, having worked with niche brands, major brands, and big groups. Tell us how you ended up at GP. MMA: People often tell me I don’t have a typical career path. Usually, you start somewhere and stay within the same group. But for me, every step has to have a purpose. I’ve always wanted to work for a brand that means something. By coincidence, I was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds - the home of GP. It’s a brand I’ve always followed. I met Luigi Macaluso early in my career and was struck by the sophistication and beauty of the brand. Beyond its know-how and history, GP has always expressed its own design because everything is in-house. Luigi “Gino” Macaluso, forme...
Teddy Baldassarre
Why Watches Use IIII Roman Numerals Instead Of IV
Watches with Roman numerals on the dial are among the most stylish and classically elegant of timepieces, despite the fact that most of them have what we might today refer to as an egregious typo. Then again, it’s not really a typo if it’s intentional, right? And the use of a "IIII" in place of the standard Roman numeral "IV" is clearly a conscious decision, as it's been commonplace for centuries. In this article, we offer some possibilities as to why. As anyone familiar with the Roman alphabet knows - and nowadays that probably includes anyone who pays attention to Super Bowl advertising - the Arabic numerals 1, 2, and 3 are rendered, respectively, as I, II, and III, but the format changes with the numeral 4, which is rendered as “IV,” and 5, which is simply “V.” Without getting too bogged down in an ancient alphabetization lesson, the first three numerals after zero (and after 5) are additive, while the one before the next major character, representing 5, is subtractive: “IV” stands for 4 because it’s five (V) minus one (I). And yet, take a glance at just about any watch dial, or clock dial, for that matter, that uses Roman numerals to denote its hours and most often you will find not a “IV” but a “IIII” - the so-called “clockmaker’s 4,” which differs from the Roman numeral we’re familiar with today. Making watches, as any aficionado knows, is one of the most meticulous, time-intensive, and detail-oriented pursuits in the world...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Time in Orbit with the Vanguart Orb Flying Tourbillon
Vanguart is a young independent watchmaking brand founded by four men: Thierry Fisher, Jeremy Frelechox, Axel Leuenberger and Mehmet Korutürk. Both Leuenberger and Frelechox previously honed their skills at Audemars Piguet. Fisher is in charge of design. Korutürk has a background in finance and was working for a private equity company. Presented in 2021, their […]
Monochrome
First Look – A new Green Edition of the Louis Moinet Impulsion Titanium Chronograph Tourbillon
The Impulsion by Louis Moinet is already one of the more extroverted ways to pair a chronograph and a tourbillon. For Dubai Watch Week 2025, the brand dials up the theatre with a sharp new act: the Impulsion Titanium Green, a limited edition that blends carbon, smoked sapphire and green-and-red colourway with the same openworked […]
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Six of this Year’s Best Watchmaking Anniversary Celebrations
With an industry that goes back centuries and loves to honour tradition, it’s no surprise that anniversaries are celebrated in style. And honestly, when done right, we’re not going to complain. This year, like clockwork, multiple brands paid homage to horological milestones, from 250-year celebrations of a watchmaking institute to a 20-year celebration of a […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches of the Navy SEALs: A History of Service
Before getting into the watches of the Navy SEALs, it's worth establishing some context about these modern-day Spartans. Officially established in 1962, the Navy SEALs, one of the U.S. military’s most elite special operations units, has its origins in World War II, with the formation of organized maritime commando teams for covert reconnaissance of landing beaches and the mounting of coastal defenses. At first designated as Amphibious Scouts and Raiders, and later as Underwater Demolitions Teams (UDTs), the graduates of the Joint Expeditionary Base in Little Creek, Virginia served admirably in the European and Pacific Theater in the years following the 1942 attack on Pearl Harbor. In the Korean War that began in 1950, an expanded force of UDT operatives played a key role, turning their covert and demolition expertise to tunnels, bridges, and other coastal targets, as well as mine sweeping and infiltration. With another Southeast Asian conflict heating up in Vietnam, President John F. Kennedy urged Congress to allocate more of the military budget to strengthen America’s capabilities in much-needed “unconventional warfare.” The result was the evolution of the UDTs and other special forces into guerrilla and anti-guerilla units that would be able to operate on “Sea, Air, and Land” - the Navy SEALs. SEAL team members, the first generation drawn from the ranks of the UDTs, were trained not only in amphibious activities but skills like hand-to-hand combat and hig...
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – The Revival Of The Hot-Hatch, But It’s Electric… A Weekend In The Brilliantly Fun Alpine A290 GTS
In all honesty, I have been rather sceptical about driving electric cars pretty much from the get-go. I rarely like how they look, the range and weight issues bothered me a long time, and if I look for something sporty, I want it to make noise, smell a bit and above all, send vibrations up […]
Time+Tide
Fortis’ fliegers for the 21st century, like this F-43 Triple GMT, are now in the Time+Tide Shop!
Designed in collaboration with the Swiss Air Force., Fortis' Flieger collection is super-legibile and tough: this GMT is a particular standout.The post Fortis’ fliegers for the 21st century, like this F-43 Triple GMT, are now in the Time+Tide Shop! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Independent Watchmaking – Man of the Hour, an 8-Episode Horology Series Premiering on Discovery Channel
I guess this is a first… a proper documentary series on some of the best-known, most successful and coolest Independent watch brands. Industry veteran Wei Koh, founder of Revolution Magazine (among others), presents eight episodes featuring visits to watch brands and collectors, offering a glimpse into what these brands do and how collectors appreciate the […]
Monochrome
Introducing – A new Rose Gold Version of the Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase
It’s easy to almost exclusively think about Longines’ Heritage or Spirit models, for them to be visually attractive, vintage-inspired models with a lot of arguments for a seasoned crowd. Recent watches, such as the Ultra-Chron Classic, the Spirit Pilot Flyback or the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, have somehow stolen the show. There’s (much) more […]
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Intellectual Allure of the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold
In 2009, A. Lange & Söhne unveiled a timepiece unlike any other in the brand’s collection – past or post-resurrection. With no hands and a digital display powered by a mechanical heart, the Zeitwerk, translated from German as “time machine”, was the first mechanical wristwatch to feature a jumping digital display for hours and minutes. […]
Hodinkee
Reading Time at HSNY: You Don’t Need a Weatherman
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Hodinkee
Top Collectors, Rivals, And Scholars Talk 'Grail Of All Grails' As Sale Of Extremely Rare Steel Patek Philippe 1518 Nears
On the eve of Phillips' auction to sell a steel Patek Philippe 1518, a select group of experts, some competitors, occasional business partners, and veteran collectors discuss a shared passion for the historic reference and brand.
Teddy Baldassarre
10 Of The Most Complicated Watches For Every Budget
In the wild world of watches, the words “affordable” and “complicated” are most often mutually exclusive. The more complicated a piece is, I think, the more we all brace ourselves to expect the correlation of a dramatic surge in price. It’s par for the course. But in recent years, there have been some watchmakers out there that have dared to do the unexpected, to bring high complications down to the realm of mortal purchasing power. As always, measuring affordability remains a personal conundrum, but there is no denying that there are now options for perpetual calendars, jump hours, and the like that are now paired with a more easily digestible price tag. In today’s guide, I’m tipping my hat to the various watch brands out there that have invested time and resources into leveling the playing field, crafting pieces of high horology that are more accessible than ever before. Across 10 pieces, we’re running the gamut of style and utility, but each piece is unique in its own way, and definitely worthy of your consideration if you’re looking for a complicated watch at a not-so-complicated price point. Christopher Ward Bel Canto Case: 41mm Material: Grade 5 Titanium Movement: Caliber FS01 Automatic Water Resistance: Price: Starts at $3,995 The only logical jumping off point for a guide such as this is with the watch that revolutionized haute-horology bells and whistles at an unheard-of price tag: the Bel Canto from British maker Christopher Ward. You’ve...
Worn & Wound
The Yema Navygraf is the Latest Diver to get the Mother of Pearl Treatment
There is something about mother-of-pearl that seems to be catching watchmakers’ eyes lately. While I highly doubt it has to do with the fact that “Mother of Pearl” is a phenomenal drag name, I can’t totally rule that out as a possibility. Instead, more likely, it has to do with the ease in which adding the iridescent substance onto an existing design gives it new personality without really reinventing the wheel. Case in point: Yema’s Navygraf Pearl. Undoubtedly, the Navygraf is a handsome watch. But, like a drag queen, sometimes it’s hard to describe something as both “handsome” and “pretty” simultaneously. At least, that was my first impression of this French-made watch. Using the classic dive watch model, like the Navygraf, and inlaying mother-of-pearl seemed, in a way, incongruous to the steely, masculine athleticism of the silhouette. But, upon examining the bezel and dial a little more closely, I’m more inclined to think this is less of a gimmick and more of a thematic appreciation for the beauty and sport that the ocean provides (unfortunately, I’m only speculating – the press release was more focused on the technical specs of this Navygraf). So, what are the specs? This is a thinner Navygraf variant, equipped with a micro-rotor caliber CMM.2, meaning that the 316L stainless steel case measuring 39mm, only clocks in at 9.75mm thickness. The CMM.2 caliber also promises around 70 hours of power reserve, making it suitable for any diving trips ...
Fratello
Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes
If you’re celebrating 270 years of uninterrupted watchmaking history, you’ve seen it all, and sometimes you need to find new challenges to keep things exciting. A new collection of Les Cabinotiers timepieces titled La Quête (The Quest) keeps the watchmakers at the world’s longest continually operating watch brand on their toes and the collectors happy. […] Visit Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
30 Of The Best Titanium Watches
Titanium is by no means a new material in the watch industry. In fact, it’s been used on a commercial level in case construction for more than 50 years. Titanium in its raw form as a structural metal is 40% lighter than stainless steel while still just as hard. Among its appeal for watchmaking purposes are the facts that it is also highly resistant to corrosion by the elements as well as being hypoallergenic. There are different grades of titanium as well, which offer different characteristics based on how it’s alloyed with other metals. Titanium ranges in color from dark gunmetal grey to a steely silver which gives it versatility in different applications. Perhaps the most enticing aspect of titanium, particularly from the consumer side, is that despite its high-quality characteristics, there isn’t a massive discrepancy between its price versus that of stainless steel. With that in mind, we've compiled a list of 30 outstanding titanium watches in a range of price categories. Citizen Promaster Super Titanium Armor Case Size: 41 mm, Integrated 23.5 mm Bracelet, Thickness: 10.5 mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43.7 mm, Water Resistance: 100 m, Movement: Eco Drive J810, Crystal: Sapphire, Price: $625 In 1970, Citizen launched the very first titanium wrist watch called the X-8 Cosmotron Chronometer. Today, Citizen uses what it calls Super Titanium, a titanium alloy coated with a proprietary hardening agent that increases the hardness of the metal to five times that of stainless steel. ...
Fratello
Artem Takes A Bold Step With The Introduction Of Barenia Leather Straps In Its Loop-Less Style
Having iterated upon its Sailcloth and Signature Nylon ranges to near perfection, Artem turns its attention to unexplored territory. The typically adventure-focused Australian strap maker seeks to put its spin on classic leather straps. Its well-renowned Sailcloth and HydroFlex watch straps suit all climates and excursions, standing up to whatever you can throw at them. […] Visit Artem Takes A Bold Step With The Introduction Of Barenia Leather Straps In Its Loop-Less Style to read the full article.
Monochrome
Book Review – The Book of Rolex, Accessible Knowledge about “The Crown” for Everyday Watch Fans
With well over a century of watchmaking from the day the brand was founded until today, the world of Rolex can be a daunting one. As the most prolific and widely known brand, and with countless references, generations and innovations coming from the Swiss manufacture, it’s understandable some might get absolutely lost in the details. […]
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – A Recreation of the Outrageous 1968 Marcos Mantis XP Prototype Set To Conquer Le Mans, But Didn’t…
“What could have been…” is a remark often heard when talking about cancelled racing programs, failed prototypes or one-hit wonders. In the world of motorsports, there have been plenty of examples of this. Cars that raced just once, never managed to move beyond the development stage, or existed only in rumours, even. Think of the […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Eight Best Italian Watch Brands in 2026
Watchmaking is a trade that draws artisans and enthusiasts from around the globe, though as an industry it has taken root in only a relative handful of nations. Switzerland, of course, is widely recognized as the world leader in the horological arts, but nations including Japan and Germany have also made a name for themselves on the world watchmaking stage. As watch connoisseurship grows in the 21st century, former watchmaking powers like Great Britain, the United States, and France have started increasing their footprint in the industry. Italy, another country historically renowned for its meticulous craftsmanship and bold, stylish design language, has exerted its own small but impactful influence on the world of watches: it’s the birthplace of Panerai, for example, a brand that essentially opened the door for old-school military tool watches to enter the rarefied air of luxury. It’s also the ancestral home of Bulgari, which, despite being more famous for its jewelry, has earned awestruck respect in the watch world for its record-breaking, boundary-pushing ultra-thin complications. Even Italy’s world-famous luxury sports-car marques - Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati - have exerted a muse-like influence on watchmakers worldwide, in both design and technology, often through direct partnerships. Watches actually made in Italy, however, are relatively few - Panerai and Bulgari are far too rooted in Switzerland nowadays to be considered for this list - but each co...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Yema Navygraf Pearl with a Mother-of-Pearl Bezel and Dial
Yema brings mother-of-pearl to new territory with the Yema Navygraf Pearl, a watch featuring a bezel and dial crafted from the iridescent material.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE, a Greatest-Hits of the Brand’s Catalogue
Independent and intentionally small, Brellum is the brand of fourth-generation watchmaker Sébastien Muller, and is built on three constants: COSC certification across the board, full movement decoration under a domed exhibition back, and direct-to-consumer production capped at 299 pieces a year. The catalogue splits into clear families. The Duobox, with its twin box sapphires and […]
Hodinkee
Happenings: Lewis Heath To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The anOrdain Founder will discuss the details of grand feu enamel and the different techniques employed in its production.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Yema Navygraf Pearl CMM.20 Flaunts a Mother-of-Pearl Dial and Bezel
French brand Yema got a foothold in the watch world with its rugged tool watches, exemplified by models like the mighty 300 water-resistant Superman skin diver of 1963. Proud of its French roots, Yema secured strategic alliances with the French Navy (Marine Nationale) to develop military tool watches. Based on its 1970s Navygraf dive watch, […]
Monochrome
In-Depth – 55 Years After Bringing it First to Market, Citizen is Still the Master of Titanium
Citizen… The very name of the brand is highly meaningful. “Watches made for all citizens.” Last year, when we visited the exhibition retracing 100 years of the brand, it became clear to me that the brand was doing things in a very particular way. The idea behind Citizen isn’t just to be accessible; it is […]
Worn & Wound
Ahead of Its 50th Anniversary Year, Raymond Weil Introduces the Toccata Heritage Capsule Collection
Watches & Wonders can be a blur of new releases in and of itself. So, when a brand asks if you want to preview some upcoming introductions for the year ahead, it can start to make your head spin. However, at my Raymond Weil appointment this past spring, I relinquished. The brand had a small display of archival pieces in a vitrine at their booth, and its Chief Marketing Officer Jeremie Bernheim assured me the reveal would be worth viewing alongside the mini museum of vintage designs. What he shared with me was a new capsule within Raymond Weil’s Toccata collection drawing from the retro models and aptly named Toccata Heritage. Today, this collection comes to you in nine styles, each more beautiful than the next, and with the option of either quartz or mechanical, manually wound movements for the first time. If you have followed Raymond Weil through any point of its nearly 50-year history, you know the brand loves to play with shape and case architecture. The existing Toccata collection explores this with a combination of rectangular and round models. For the new Toccata Heritage capsule, the maison has refined this design language even further. Here, you have a shape the brand simply calls oval, but in my humble opinion, this description does not do the case justice. The case design of the new Toccata Heritage models is decidedly not the harsh, egg-shaped oval profile you might associate with other watch brands. Instead, it takes the structure of the current rectangular m...