Deployant
Review: new Yema Wristmaster Adventurer
In our modestly priced reviews, we take a look at the new Yema Wristmaster Adventurer, a vintage-remake of the classic Yema watches in the 1960s.
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Deployant
In our modestly priced reviews, we take a look at the new Yema Wristmaster Adventurer, a vintage-remake of the classic Yema watches in the 1960s.
SJX Watches
Just debuted at Dubai Watch Week, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is different from the usual Moser watches. A limited edition with a bronze case, the Since 1828 is styled like an aviator’s watch, with a design that draws heavily on early 20th century wristwatches. The dial is naturally smoked, as most Moser dials are, but in a subtle manner. And in a nod to its own history, the dial bears the H. Moser & Cie. logo in Cyrillic, which before the Russian Revolution was found on most of the brand’s timepieces. Initial thoughts Moser is today best known for its fume dials and Streamliner sports watch, with the Heritage line being a lesser known part of its line up. Still, the Heritage watches offer the usual Moser quality – of both innovation and finishing – in a different package. Admittedly, a bronze pilot’s watch isn’t exactly novel, but it’s atypical for Moser. And it is executed well, with a retro design that features smart details like the wire-like lugs, flat crown, and applied numerals. But perhaps the best feature is the Cyrillic logo on the dial, which is a minor detail but manages to give the watch a different look. And it is historically appropriate, given that the Russian Empire was once the key destination for Moser’s watches. And with a price of about US$18,000, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is a fair deal for a watch with a solid, attractive in-house movement along with a dial and case featuring good details. Atypically Moser The H...
SJX Watches
Urwerk’s entry-level – and most wearable – model from has just got more interesting at Dubai Watch Week with the new UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket, the first metal bracelet for the UR-100 line, and an integrated bracelet at that. Bracelet aside, the UR-100V also gets a new look – muted shades of grey and almost monochromatic – giving the watch a sleek, clean look that’s handsome. Initial thoughts While an integrated bracelet is now the fad for high-end watches, it is relatively unusual for Urwerk. The latest UR-100 is clearly different from the typical Urwerk. Though the brand has installed bracelets on its watches in the past, they were few in number and restricted to the top-of-the-line models like the UR-210. Despite the new(ish) look, the UR-100V is still very much an Urwerk, because the open dial with wandering hours is instantly recognisable. And the bracelet is smartly done with a minimalist style, so it doesn’t get in the way of the design. In fact, the restrained, all-grey palette will be familiar to long-time fans of the brand. The sand-blasted case and bracelet in shades of grey call to mind earlier models like the UR-105 that was finished similarly, as well as the more recent UR-100 Gunmetal. When this arrived in my inbox, I instantly found it attractive, but I thought the construction of bracelet was too simple. In the photos, it lacks the complexity of Urwerk’s signature cases that are finely machined. But after seeing it in the metal I am co...
Quill & Pad
For the Panthère UAE Limited Edition, Cartier set the bezel with 44 brilliant-cut rubies. These stones surround the distinctive bezel screws that are one of the hallmarks of the Panthère model and add a generous dash of color, making this limited edition a true eye-catcher for Martin Green.
Time+Tide
News broke yesterday that Michael Jordan has invested in WatchBox, the trading site that has just raised $165 million USD in its latest round of financing. But as you might expect from a guy with a net worth estimated at $1.6 billion USD, the basketball legend has an impressive watch box of his own. Judging by … ContinuedThe post Following his Watchbox investment, 5 pieces that show Michael Jordan is a genuine watch lover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Confirming chatter that was circulating in Geneva during watch auction season two weeks ago, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner (UJS) has been taken over by a group of investors with Kari Voutilainen at the helm. Having worked at UJS decades ago as a young watchmaker, Mr Voutilainen is returning as the chief executive. He will also retain his role at his namesake brand, which recently moved into new premises high up above the town of Fleurier on the mountain known as Chapeau de Napoléon. Kari Voutilainen Working alongside Mr Voutilainen at UJS will be his daughter, Venla, who recently completed her watchmaking studies and then an internship at a large watch retailer. Better known for the unique pocket watch she helped create for Only Watch 2019, Ms Voutilainen will be in charge of after-sales service at UJS, while also working at the Voutilainen brand itself. Originally an 18th century Danish brand, UJS was revived in the 1970s by the late Peter Baumberger. Control then passed on to watch expert and auctioneer Dr Helmut Crott after Baumberger’s death. During that period, Mr Voutilainen became involved with the brand once again, when he helped to refine its in-house calibre. UJS was then taken over by its most recent owners, Danish investors led by former Nokia executive Søren Jenry Petersen. Although the brand earned some press with new products during that period, most notably with its first sports watch, UJS never gained the necessary momentum to break into the ranks of top...
Hodinkee
Using data and analytics to look at watch design.
Quill & Pad
Many of you are likely to have come across at least a few heated discussions of “finishing,” a topic that seems to fascinate, and divide, watch enthusiasts. Like many people, GaryG's starting point for serious watches was with a well-priced brand long known for its expertise in developing movements, justly viewed as offering good value for money – but not necessarily for the refinement of its movement finishing, at least on its less expensive pieces. Read on to discover what he has learned since then.
Quill & Pad
When the hammer came down at the Phillips auction and GaryG had become the new owner of an A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon, the feeling was one of complete joy, representing the culmination of a multiyear chase. What makes this particular watch so special in so many ways to him?
SJX Watches
Soon to open in London and then in other countries in 2022, the OAK Collection is perhaps the first time a private collector is staging an exhibition that’s open to the public. Taking place at the Design Museum with free entry, the OAK Collection exhibition is made up of just the highlights from the owner’s collection, but already numbers over 160 watches. [Edit December 1, 2021: The exhibition in London has been postponed to spring 2022.] Organised into thematic sections, the OAK Collection – short for “one of a kind” – is dominated by Patek Philippe. Most of the watchmaker’s most important historical timepieces are represented in the collection, including a ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial, as well as exceptionally rare variants of the refs. 1518 and 2499. And the collection naturally includes modern-day, special-order Patek Philippe watches commissioned by the owner. One of the exhibition’s highlights is the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial that also takes centre stage on the event poster And the collection includes five pocket watches that once belonged to Henry Graves Jr, the American banker who was one of Patek Philippe’s most important clients in the first half of the 20th century. Outside of the Patek Philippe Museum, the OAK Collection contains the largest number of watches that once belonged to Graves. Amongst the former Graves watches in the OAK Collection is the 1935 observatory tourbillon pocket watch ...
Time+Tide
This month has been jam-packed with watch events, RedBar gatherings, an IWC Big Pilot Exhibition and much more. As a “pandemic hire”, I am suddenly getting the full watch industry experience. Back at the end of August I experienced three time zones, heading off to the COUTURE Watch and Jewellery show in Las Vegas from … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hollywood and Hamilton, Norqain and now onto Dubai Watch Week… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If I had to pinpoint the early origins of my journey to becoming a watch lover, I would attribute it to inheriting the passion for watches from my grandfather. Throughout decades of his career he sold watches for a living, anything from Victorionox door-to-door to Rolex and Omega in various authorised dealers. While he loved … ContinuedThe post A MONTH ON THE WRIST: Why I’ve already forged a special connection with my new Rolex Datejust 36 ref. 126234 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In its short, decade long life Tudor’s defining dive watch, the Black Bay has been on a wild ride. We look at the historic origins of Tudor’s diver and discover how this design lineage has been incorporated into the modern-day Tudor Black Bay
SJX Watches
An easily digestible journey through the history of Cartier’s most famous rectangular watch, the Cartier Tank Experience is now open in Singapore until December 5, 2021. Taking place at Malmaison by The Hour Glass, the Cartier Tank Experience explores the history of the Tank with a timeline that rings the exhibition. Punctuatated by famous faces enraging from artist Andy Warhol to First World War hero General John Pershing, the Tank timeline touches on the bewildering variety of models over its century-long history, including the Tank Cintree and lesser known variants like the Tank Normale. And it is also a showcase of the jeweller’s current line up of Tanks, including the bestselling Tank Must with solid-colour dials and the Prive Tank Cintree (which is perhaps under-appreciated because it’s not a limited edition). The exhibition also includes a “strap bar”, basically a section where custom straps for the Tank can be ordered – and the Tank wristwatch itself personalised. Visitors can choose from alligator hide in 16 colours, and also specify the stitching, lining, and even a personalised inscription on the lining. Alongside the custom strap (and included in its cost), Cartier is also offering the option of engraving the owner’s initials on the case back of his or her Tank. The strap bar Exhibition details Open from now till December 5, 2021 Monday to Saturday 11.30 am-7.30 pm Sunday and public holidays 11.30 am-7.00 pm Visitors should register in advance for...
SJX Watches
I’m pleased to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, a collaborative edition loosely inspired by the disco-era El Primero G383, but reimagined with lots of lume – the dial is disco at night and also in the day. Update: Sold out, thank you for the interest. A brief background Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because it’s historically significant for its chronometers and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the brand makes watches that are both appealing and affordable. So it was a no-brainer for me to work with Zenith – since it meant I could create my fantasy El Primero. One of my favourite vintage Zenith models is the G383, a truly funky watch with a design that is unmistakably of the late 1960s and 1970s – the dial is over the top and truly disco. The El Primero G383 of 1969 But a one-for-one vintage remake has never interested me (plus I’m not a fan of the tiny lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s head of product development, and together we spent several months refining the concept, creating the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”. (Full disclosure: The several months spent tweaking the idea produced more than one outstanding design, so a variant is a possibility.) At the same time, the Poker Chip will also be more accessible than our past editions. It’s as affordable as Zenith watches typically are – in fact it costs just 10% more t...
Time+Tide
It’s easy to forget that this hobby we love had its origins in life-changing situations. These watches we wear were once more than just physical expressions of our stylistic tastes. They helped plot our courses over land and sea. They enabled some of the bravest people of a generation to rendezvous for war-time missions at … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Mancheront Pacer delivers an ingenious twist on the Pulsometer function appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Leaked online prior to its launch – David Beckham inadvertently revealed the watch on his Instagram account – the Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” was widely expected yet surprisingly, at least in the metal. Developed in collaboration with the combat divers of the Commando Hubert, an elite unit of the Commandos Marine, part of the special forces of the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. The divers covertly travel underwater in pairs, and the Pelagos FXD is one of the tools they use for aquatic navigation. The FXD revives the relationship Tudor maintained with the French Navy for several decades starting in the 1950s when the watchmaker first supplied the navy with dive watches. A Submariner ref. 9401/0 issued to French navy divers in the 1970s Initial thoughts I liked the idea of the FXD when I first saw the photos, and seeing it in the metal reinforced my opinion, enough that I bought one. Beyond its tangible qualities its best characteristic in my opinion is its status as the only watch developed as a military-issue timepiece – that is currently in active service with a unit – in the mid- to high-end segment of modern watchmaking. This sets the FXD apart from watches made by other brands that supply military units with civilian watches bearing the unit insignia, as brands like IWC, Breitling, and Bell & Ross do. Being a military-issue watch the FXD is straightforward, but it also boasts the attention to detail one expects from Tudor, even on the finish...
SJX Watches
A member of Switzerland’s diplomatic corps for some two decades – he was the Swiss Consul General in New York City until 2007 – Raymond Loretan was tapped to become the President of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Just before the 2021 awards ceremony took place in Geneva, we sat down with Mr Loretan to get his thoughts on how the GPHG has evolved and where it is going. Raymond Loretan making the opening speech at the 2021 GPHG ceremony. Photo – GPHG Benjamin Teisseire: You have overseen profound changes at the GPHG since you took over as president in 2018. Is everything going as planned? Raymond Loretan: So far yes. We created the Academy last year and it represents a big change in paradigm for the Grand Prix. It worked well with the 350 members but with some glitches, which we have now learned from. This year, it worked even more smoothly with over 500 members of the Academy. No technical issues with the digital platforms and academicians were involved at all stages in the selection process. But the goal is to double this number of academicians in the next two to three years. That’s because it is the way to assert the three principles on which the Grand Prix is built. First of all is the Neutrality that has been questioned in the past. With this new way of working, this important pillar will be guaranteed. The second one is Universality. The more people coming from all over the world, the better this diversity will be represented. And it...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Kaz and Mike take some time during Father's Day weekend to reflect on the watches worn by their dads, and how this shaped the way they look at watches today.
SJX Watches
One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.
Quill & Pad
The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is scheduled to begin at 6:30 pm Central European Time on Thursday the 12th of November. Follow the big night on Quill & Pad and let us know your thoughts on the winners (and losers) in the comments.
SJX Watches
Geneva auction week this year includes Only Watch, perhaps the headline event, but also a slew of other auctions. Over at Phillips, the majority of its Geneva watch auction catalogue comprises wristwatches, but two standouts in the sale are pocket watches, one from an independent watchmaker and the other from an establishment brand. Different as they are, the two are are indeed an epic pair. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV takes place on November 5 and 7, 2021. Lot 183 – Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch Ref. 768 There are a few reasons the Patek Philippe ref. 768 is intriguing, even though they might not be obvious at a glance. For one, the ref. 798 is truly rare – Patek Philippe has only made a handful of grande sonnerie pocket watches in its history. It incorporates the most challenging complication to execute, the grande et petite sonnerie, which means the watch chimes the time as it passes. And it is a carillon, with three gongs instead of two, so that the quarter is sounded with three notes instead of the typical two. Then there’s the fact that it’s a mid-20th century Patek Philippe, a guarantee of the fine horological quality. The movement was made in 1898, but only cased up more than half a century later in 1953, and subsequently sold close to a decade after that. This example is interesting because it has a single-lidded back that sports an extra-large, relief-engraved Calatrava cross on a frosted base. According to Phillips the oversized logo ...
Time+Tide
During a shoot in that small window in between lockdowns in Melbourne, Andrew and I were discussing some of our favourite pieces we’d seen and tried on this year. Despite not having the usual bulk access at major fairs, we’ve still had some great watches in the office to ogle. One of the first watches … ContinuedThe post We asked Andrew six hard-hitting questions on his first six months with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The top lots amongst independent watchmakers at Only Watch 2021 are no doubt the F.P. Journe FFC Blue and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II, but they will cost six or seven figures. But half of the participants at Only Watch are independent watchmakers, so there are a few more interesting examples of the genre, which might possibly be reasonably affordable. We round up five notable watches amongst the “indies”, ranging from the quirky and fascinating Urwerk that’s an upgraded example of the brand’s earliest watch to the stunningly engine-turned Andersen Genève Quotidiana. Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” Perhaps the avant-garde independent watchmaker, Urwerk is best known for revolutionising the presentation of time, having invented time displays using satellite cubes on a carousel and prisms in cylinders. But the brand’s creation for Only Watch 2021 looks nothing like its recent work, because it’s a quarter-century old, an artefact from the brand’s start-up days. The UR-102 “Gaïa” is a prototype of one of the brand’s earliest models – it is actually a vintage Urwerk – but dressed up smartly for the occasion, with a special case back decoration that signifies the brand’s success. The platinum case back is adorned with a sparkling, deep blue emblem that alludes to the Gaïa Prize, which Urwerk’s founders won in 2020 That said, being an Urwerk, the time display is far from rudimentary. While neither a cube nor a prism, it is still a wond...
SJX Watches
Widely regarded as important, the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch was a landmark when it was unveiled in 1992. The first wristwatch to incorporate a grande et petite sonnerie, widely regarded as the pinnacle of complications, the Grande Sonnerie is indeed a feat of miniaturisation, construction, and finishing. And now the very first example is slated to go under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. Initial thoughts Originally conceived as a homage of early 20th century Swiss watchmaking – the very sort of watches Mr Dufour worked on early in his career – the Grande Sonnerie revered today for many reasons, but it really is all about two accomplishments. The wristwatch (left), and its pocket watch counterpart One is miniaturisation – this was the first ever wristwatch grande sonnerie. Prior examples were all pocket watches and correspondingly large. And the second, arguably more important quality, is its movement finishing. Mr Dufour decorated each component of the movement exceedingly well. So well, in fact, that this is arguably better finished than even the finest examples of grande sonnerie pocket watches made by brands like Patek Philippe. In the metal the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch is eminently classical, and also fairly large at 41 mm in diameter. In fact, when it premiered in 1992 the Grande Sonnerie would have been massive – the typical men’s dress watch was barely 35 mm then. The Grande Sonnerie is almost a pocket watch with lugs...
SJX Watches
Having set the record for the most expensive watch ever when the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A sold for CHF31 million at Only Watch 2019, Patek Philippe has created something entirely different for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction. The Geneva watchmaker’s entry for Only Watch 2021 is the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27001M-001, a tabletop timepiece inspired by a pair of historical clocks made in the 1920s for prominent American collectors. The front of the clock opens to reveal the pushers for adjustment as well as winding and setting sockets Initial thoughts While Patek Philippe’s past creations for Only Watch were unique variants of existing models, the ref. 27001M desk clock is a unique model. It also claims several “firsts”. The ref. 27001M is the only example of this reference ever created to date – and the first timepiece to be equipped with this movement – and also the first clock Patek Philippe has contributed to Only Watch. This makes the ref. 27001M truly unique against all of Patek Philippe’s diverse repertoire. The inscription on the inside of the lid Very much classical luxury in style, the ref. 27001M is an appealing timepiece. A couple of details could have been done better or removed altogether, like “The Only One” on the lower edge, but it is still a good looking object. At the same time, it is mechanically interesting, since the movement is not only a 31-day calibre but also being used for the first time by Patek Philippe. Thoug...
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: We recently presented our readers with the opportunity to submit their very own written “Every Watch Tells a Story” where they reflect on a timepiece that is very special to them and the narrative behind it. Here is Nelli’s (@tiffanyticks) tale of how she arrived at the Cartier Roadster and how gender-expectations confounded others … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross’s unique BR 01 Instrument stole the spotlight at its launch in 2005 thanks to its unusual circle-in-a-square case, becoming an instant hit. The BR 01 was then used as a jumping-off point for a variety of designs, beginning in 2009 with the then-trendy skull motif – which in Elizabeth Doerr's eyes was a perfect addition. How has the skull motif evolved at Bell & Ross? Find out here!
SJX Watches
Romain Gauthier’s latest watch is a surprise (sort of, since a one-off version was revealed for Only Watch 2021). Instead of being a successor to the mechanically and artistically impressive Logical One, the Continuum is a simple, time-only watch that transforms one of the brand’s first models into a modern, sporty watch. Fabricated entirely of titanium, including the muted dial and hand-wind movement, the Continuum is notably lightweight at just 55 grams including the strap and buckle. Initial thoughts While high-end watches across the board are enjoying a boom in demand, luxury-sports watches stand out for being the hottest genre. For that reason, even brands that have long focused on classical, complicated watchmaking have entered the sports watch arena. So sports watches are increasingly mundane, with every new release almost feeling like one too many. That chips away at the appeal of the Continuum, though it’s clearly executed to a high level, as is expected of Romain Gauthier. The red lines radiating from the small seconds smartly fill up the bottom half of the dial, which is larger than usual with the off-center hours and minutes hands The Continuum does look like a Romain Gauthier, despite an all-new design. It has enough elements from the brand’s past models that it feels like an evolved version of classical offerings such as the Insight Micro Rotor. That said, its bezel with wide machined notches does appear derivative, especially because it doesn’t ...
SJX Watches
For some two-and-a-half decades, Urwerk – along with a handful of other independent watchmakers – has been at the cutting edge of the the presentation of time. While the three-dimensional, satellite-cube hours has long been its trademark complication, Urwerk has nevertheless continued to evolve its mechanics, resulting in similarly futuristic watches such as the UR-111C with its linear time display on a rotating drum. And its latest invention is perhaps the brand’s most notable since the debut of the satellite cube display. A followup to the UR-111C, the UR-112 Aggregat retains the same form as its immediate predecessor, and continues to display hours and minutes displayed in a pair of glass cylinders. But the UR-112 is more complicated, with the hours and minutes indicated by swivelling prisms. And its case has an aggressive, military feel that brings to mind the Tumbler of Christopher Nolan’s Dark Knight films. Initial thoughts As the UR-112 is part of the Special Project Collection – the models within are essentially one-off production runs – it is disconnected with Urwerk’s recent inclination towards slimmer, streamlined designs. The UR-112 is an appealing and intriguing example of watchmaking, and very much typical of Urwerk. Importantly, it is impressive yet unpretentious – it does not replicate past designs, nor does it try to be fashionable. Notable for being entirely digital with its time display, the UR-112 indicates the the hours and minutes ...
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