Hodinkee
Introducing: The MIH Gaïa Watch
Fourteen years after the first MIH watch, the Swiss museum releases its follow-up.
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Hodinkee
Fourteen years after the first MIH watch, the Swiss museum releases its follow-up.
SJX Watches
Breguet’s contribution to the most recent Only Watch auction in 2017 was a unique, enlarged version of its inventive in-line perpetual calendar that had the calendar indications arranged in a column vertically across the dial. Though clever and unusual, the watch was probably too esoteric and classical for current tastes, and it sold for 110,000 Swiss francs, just 10% above the high estimate, reputedly to a discerning collector in Australia. This year’s upcoming Only Watch, however, includes a very different Breguet that should sell for a multiple of its estimate. The Type 20 for Only Watch 2019 is essentially a spot-on replica of the two-register aviator’s chronograph Breguet supplied to the French military from the mid 1950s – exactly the type of watch that is desirable now. Specifically, it’s a remake of the first generation Type 20, which was marked “5101/54” on the case back, denoting the order number, “5101”, and the year of 1954. More specifically, it’s based on the Type 20 made for the French air force, distinguished by equal-sized sub-dials; watches for the naval air arm had oversized minute counters. Named after the French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, itself derived from the Second World War German air force chronograph design, the original Type 20s were produced by a variety of watchmakers, including Vixa, Dodane, and Auricoste. Breguet examples, however, are the most valuable. Note that “Type XX” refers to the same...
Time+Tide
With Only Watch 2019 now just a mere 11 days away from kicking off, we thought we’d take a look at Blancpain’s Only entrant – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. The unique piece from the storied Swiss marque is, rather obviously, based on the standard Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. However, the Only Watch Barakuda sports very … ContinuedThe post The only Barakuda you’ll ever need – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Only Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In this week's article, we take a look at luxury sport watch and recommendation some of our favourite watches from this category.
Time+Tide
The handful of BIG Rolex collectors meet-ups around the world represent the sanctum sanctorum of the vintage watch world, secretive affairs (which is sensible, given the dollar value of watches on the table) that offer a glimpse not just into the ultra-rarefied, and slightly odd, world of very high-end watch collecting, but also where the … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The World Economic Forum of the vintage watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Independent watchmakers are a major presence at Only Watch 2019, accounting for almost half the 50 lots in the charity auction coming. Importantly, two of them will probably end up in the top five by value – the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”. While the Astronomic Blue is the most complicated wristwatch F.P. Journe has ever made, the Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” is a time-only watch, with a suitably modest estimate of 40,000-60,000 Swiss francs, though it’ll probably sell for five to seven times the low estimate. Hammered, and enamelled The key element that sets the “Only Watch” edition apart from the standard Chronomètre Contemporain is the dial. Completely unique because of the technique – used here for the first time in an Akrivia watch – the dial combines the surfaces finish of Akrivia’s two distinct collections: the hand-hammered decoration of the contemporary AK line and the vitreous enamel of the classic Rexhep Rexhepi range, named after the brand’s founder. Several attempts were required to get a perfect dial – Rexhep showed me one of the rejects with a cloudy finish in September – but the result is quietly impressive. Note that it is hammered and then enamelled, but not hammered enamel. Ordinarily a new dial colour doesn’t mean very much, but because the Chronomètre Contemporain regarded, and Rexhep has kept his promise not to do variations or custom orders of th...
Time+Tide
Watches with complications - like the chronograph, moonphase or, in this case, the GMT - are less about practical function and more about possibility. Sure, these watches are designed to excel on the road (or in the air for that matter), but for most wearers, that is an infrequent reality. Still, the possibility of far-off places … ContinuedThe post Have watch will travel – 5 GMTs under $5K that are ready to hit the road appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Odysseus is the culmination of both a transformative journey for Lange and a watch that collectors and connoisseurs of the brand have been wanting, waiting for, dreaming about, and clamoring for since the brand was re-founded in 1994: a daily wearer by A. Lange & Söhne in hardy stainless steel. And here it is.
Revolution
We speak to Rolex Testimonee and marine biologist Sylvia Earle in this episode of the Revolution Watch Podcast. We also ask: what’s happening to SIHH?
Revolution
For those driven to near madness or abject depression by the inadequacies of traditional watch rolls, take heart, the dog days are o-over…
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Time+Tide
To say Ellen DeGeneres likes a timepiece or two is probably one of the larger understatements of the year. In fact, you’d have to be living under a rock not to be aware that the comedian and talk show host’s watch collection is probably among the very best of the Hollywood glitterati. There have been … ContinuedThe post Is this Ellen’s best watch purchase yet? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Phillips is presenting their Hong Kong Watch Auction 9 with the first evening session dedicated to watches coming directly from their original owners.
Time+Tide
You might have missed the slick new updates to Omega’s dressy Trésor line amidst the cavalcade of Speedmaster and Seamaster releases this year but, trust me, they’re worth closer inspection. For one thing, steel joins the family this year, across a few versions. Of particular note is this gorgeous bleu number. Not only is the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The latest Omega Trésor is the perfect dressed-down dress watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Following last week's topic on Tastebreakers, we take a look yet again at six watch recommendations consisting of watches that are often overlooked by many.
Time+Tide
$2.5K can buy you quite a lot in this world – an economy plane ticket to just about anywhere on the planet, a car that’s probably (definitely) going to have questionable reliability or, if you’re so inclined, a really, really nice bottle of wine. And for us watch enthusiasts out there who already have a … ContinuedThe post 5 for $500: Building a great watch collection for less than $2.5K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Revolution
The integrated bracelet watch has become an icon, one that emerged from the ’70s as a response to a design-centric world. Or did it?
Time+Tide
It’s a question we never, ever get tired of asking. What sealed the deal on your watch? What was the straw that broke the camel’s wallet? The way the light melts across the domed box crystal? The price you got from that uncle with a gambling problem? The day you saw it on someone else … ContinuedThe post Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Hand Made 1 is a watch “95%” produced “using only hand-operated tools”, requiring some 6,000 hours, according to Greubel Forsey. That’s equivalent to three years of work, largely performed by a special team of watchmakers assembled by Greubel Forsey specifically for this project, along with independent specialists who produce certain components. Functionally, the Hand Made 1 is a straightforward timepiece – it shows the time, hours, minutes and seconds, and is equipped with a one-tourbillon regulator. The movement is made up of 272 parts, which is within the usual range for such a movement. The complexity of the watch comes from how it is made – by hand or by hand-operated tools – which is why only two to three examples will be produced per year. The genesis for the Hand Made 1 is the department within Greubel Forsey that produces prototypes, which are essentially one-off, hand-made watches. The same production techniques are applied to the Hand Made 1, except that they are taken to a far higher level, in order to create components that are produced with the same techniques as prototypes but to the same fit and finish as standard Greubel Forsey movements. So each screw is made on a manual lathe, and can take up to eight hours to complete. The case components are milled on a pantograph lathe, essentially a manually operated CNC machine that requires the operator to guide the cutting tool to by hand. And even the balance spring is rolled by a manua...
Deployant
In this week's Throwback Sundays, we celebrate the tastebreakers by sharing six watch recommendations that are overlooked by the masses.
Time+Tide
I know, it’s a horrible prospect, and one that we don’t really want to seriously consider, but you know what, it makes an excellent proposition for a hypothetical, something that flies around the office a fair bit. Only this time, I took some notes … Nick’s choice – Cartier Why? Cartier looks good in any … ContinuedThe post What we’d wear if we could wear only one watch brand for the rest of our lives … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Only Watch founder Luc Pettavino is a very persuasive man. Every two years, he manages to convince small watchmakers to risk neglecting paying customers, and instead to spend a lot of time and effort to exercise their creativity in building a one-off timepiece – and then give the resulting watch to the Only Watch charity auction. Most watchmakers regard it as an honour to be asked for a contribution, after all, the list of participants include boldface establishment names like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. While Luc also receives many offers from brands, he wants to curate an interesting mix of watches for each Only Watch auction, capped at a maximum of 50 watches or so each time – he alone decides what’s in and what’s out. A few brands have been dedicated supporters of the charity since the very beginning, and they are usually invited to return year after year. In the inaugural Only Watch auction in 2005, lot 1 was the unique Eros “Navigation Pleasure” wristwatch. It was the work of Andersen Genève, the brand founded by Svend Andersen, a 77-year old veteran independent watchmaker best known for co-founding the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). When Luc visited Svend at Baselworld earlier this year to solicit a contribution for Only Watch 2019, he received a swift “yes”. With the watch required to be finished for a world tour starting just three months after Baselworld, quick decisions were necessary a...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Detailed comparison of Elastic Watch Straps from Erika's Originals, The Watch Steward, and Nick Mankey Designs - is it worth spending the extra money?
Time+Tide
There’s a lot of discussion out there when it comes to the most recognisable watch design of all time. For many, that design is a Rolex (though personally I think the classic Swatch would give it a solid run for its money). The debate really starts to heat up when you ask the question of … ContinuedThe post The epitome of classic watch design – the Rolex Datejust appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In their latest joint venture, IWC Schaffhausen and surfboard designer and entrepreneur Hayden Cox have teamed up to create a unique concept – the world’s first floating surfboard design studio. This very Australian activation was also designed to highlight the brand’s recent efforts to reduce their environmental impact, by – for example – using 90 … ContinuedThe post IWC ranked as top Swiss watch brand by WWF for reducing environmental impact, celebrates on tiny floating house appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Apple's Alan Dye tells us how he designs watch faces.
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