6,051 articles · 26 videos found · page 181 of 203
Deployant
I wrote about Laurent Ferrier’s Gallet Tourbillon before. See this post for the earlier post. I caught up with Laurent and his crew in Geneva during the recent GTE where he was showing a peek-a-boo dial…which features a fan shaped opening on the dial which opens to reveal a favourite picture…painted by no other thanRead More
Deployant
Kari Voutilainen’s simple time only watch…a la Dufour’s Simplicity is the Observertoire. I had the oppportunity to photograph this masterpiece in Motiers in January, after the SIHH when I visited with some good friends. The dial shows great restraint, and looks extremely handsome. The rose engine turned dial is made onsite at Kari’s premises. IRead More
Deployant
H. Moser is an interesting company, recently exploded into the scene with some very innovative watches. Featured here is the perpetual calendar. In many calendars, the dial is usually so complicated, it is hard to read the time, and even harder to read the calendar indications. Not so with the Moser. This roundabout thinking hasRead More
Deployant
The watch, in White Gold. Limited to an edition of 20 pieces, this is No 1. A closer look at the front dial The rear of the watch… A Side view of the watch, showing the engraving with Singapore’s lattitude: A closeup of the tourbillon, showing the special design of the tourbillon cage Slide openRead More
Deployant
Laurent Ferrier…the first offering from this doyen of traditional watchmaking. Laurent used to work within the studios of Patek Philippe, and this year, he introduced a landmark piece bearing his name on the dial. The Gallet Tourbillon is a masterpiece of watchmaking. Totally traditional, fully classical in design, layout and finish. Available as an enamelRead More
Deployant
The MB&F;’s Horological Machine No 3…nicknamed The Frog is a special adaptation of the HM3…with a bit stonger visual design of the dial, providing the impact like they are buldging…like a frog’s eyes. The rotor carries the battleax logo.
Deployant
The Lange Annual Calendar…the first Lange watch to bear this complication is shown below: The annual calendar offers a lower cost alternative to the perpetual calendar…and also a cleaner, easier to read dial layout. Very handsome watch, clean dial layout, very legible. Movement again in characteristic Lange finish. The annual calendar movement is under theRead More
Deployant
We continue with the Homage series in honey gold. The 1815 Moonphase is a rehash of the original Emil Lange 1815 Moonphase which has been doing very well in the auction scene. The character of the 1815 dial design is apparent in the new watch. But the design shows a totally new watch…featuring the vapourRead More
Deployant
Its Singapore’s National Day! To celebrate, I am showing my personal Datograph, owned for almost 10 years, and gone back to the factory for a full service about a year ago. The dial side… The movement side is mesmerising…I think this is bar none the best chronograph movement ever made: Detail showing the movement.
Deployant
Audemars Piguet Offshore Grand Prix: Click here for a large 1920 pixel wide wallpaper of the dial side.
Worn & Wound
For their tenth anniversary, Monta has released a pair of limited editions paying tribute to the Swiss watchmaking town of Neuchâtel, where every Monta from the earliest days of the brand has been developed. The two new watches, variants of the Triumph and Skyquest, offer a bunch of unique Easter eggs for longtime Monta fans while also remaining attractive and accessible timepieces on their own. Like all Montas, they are understated and built on a love of vintage tool watches, but for their tenth anniversary the team has allowed themselves to get a bit reflective in some of the design details, which I think many enthusiasts who’ve been with them from the beginning will appreciate. The Neuchâtel X collection, as it’s known, is marked most obviously by new opaline dials to set them apart from the rest of the Monta lineup. The Skyquest Neuchâtel X features an old school printed layout with beige lume for a vintage effect, as well as custom dial typography for the Monta logo not seen prior to this collection. The Skyquest’s handset is also unique to this watch, and draws on a sword hand style popular with collectors of vintage sports watches. The Skyquest remains at 40.7mm in diameter and 11.8mm thick. The red and blue 24 hour bezel allows the tracking of a third time zone with the help of Monta’s Caliber M-23, a rebadged Sellita SW330 “caller” style GMT. The case is water resistant to 300 meters and of course is paired with Monta’s excellent bracelet with a...
WristBuzz
Fifteen years on, MB&F;'s most classically minded creation comes back hardened for daily wear, without losing any of its original magic.
Fratello
These days, “finishing” is a buzzword. Talk to fans of high horology, and you will most likely hear terms like “anglage,” “black polish,” and “perlage.” It seems like everything is about finishing nowadays, which made a master watchmaker tell me that decorating every last piece of a movement is not the essence of watchmaking. He […] Visit Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick? to read the full article.
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, we feature a boutique brand and its CEO from a country that has the watch industry abuzz. Nirupesh Joshi is the co-founder and Chief Executive Officer of Bangalore Watch Company, based in Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore), India. Mercy Amalraj and Nirupesh Joshi. Founded in 2018, the company has slowly established itself as a purveyor of premium watchmaking, with models that don't rely on classic tropes about the country to tell their story. Former tech industry executives Joshi and his wife, Mercy Amalraj, are building a brand that aims to express India's modern spirit as the country becomes an increasingly significant economic and cultural player on the world stage. India has a rich watchmaking history, with brands like HMT and Titan producing watches in large volumes to serve its fast-growing population of over 1 billion people. But BWC is seeking a different client, one that's more seasoned in watches, and is seeking a brand that innovates and competes with other marques from around the world to tell its own unique stories. BWC has grown to about 15 staff members, including watchmakers repatriated from other brands, and has opened a boutique in its home city and produces around 2,000 watches per year, assembled in India using components made both in-country and from suppliers around the world. The company recently raised capital from investors, and Joshi tells us how BWC plans to bring its watches to a wider, global audience. Custo...
Hodinkee
What We Know If you're following artisanal watchmaking with all the flash and hype of the independent space, you're forgiven for missing Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie. Their watches don't often show up on social media, largely because they are entirely bespoke, one-off commissions based on the various architectures they offer. But we've been covering them since 2016, and the product (and potentially their clients' tastes) has gotten better and better. Outstanding, in fact. That's how I'd frame their new AdC16, the company's first two-counter chronograph. If you don't like the design, that's fine—you can customize it however you like—but top-down, movement-to-specs, the watch is really attractive to a vintage lover like myself. Atelier de Chronométrie allows customization of the case and dial, as well as finishing on the movement (a variation of which they are going to share soon, based on this movement), but in this case, they've made a really nice, compact, 36mm Calatrava-style case that is reminiscent (with the dial) of a Vacheron Constantin 4072. The case is two-tone yellow gold and steel and has a black galvanic gilt-style dial (though not actually done the original way, as the press release states; more likely pad-printed), with yellow gold applied markers and hands. The kicker is really the movement. The base design is the venerable Valjoux 23, but they've redesigned the shape of several bridges and levers while trying to keep the entire gear train fe...
SJX Watches
The Seiko Prospex Diver’s Watch “Blue Tears” ref. HBB006 gives the familiar “Samurai” a subtle blue-on-blue colourway, with a bright blue seconds hand providing the contrast. Affordable, well made, and rugged without over-the-top styling, the regional limited edition preserves the practical appeal of Seiko’s entry-level Prospex diver. Initial thoughts I like the “Blue Tears” for much the same reason I like Seiko’s other straightforward divers — it’s purposeful without looking dull. The blue-on-blue palette helps, particularly the vibrant seconds hand, which suggests an understanding of colour theory. Throughout history, artists (and some high-end watch brands) have employed this formula to enhance the perceived “glow” of the lighter colour. Nature-inspired dials are familiar territory for Seiko, and blue remains a crowd favourite. At 41.7 mm in diameter and 12.3 mm thick, the case offers sensible proportions for a substantial steel diver, and the bracelet’s faceted links carry on the angular form of the lugs, distinguishing it from other dive watches in the Seiko collection. In short, the design succeeds in part because it’s not trying to look like something else — a common problem in the dive watch segment. Priced just under SGD954, the “Blue Tears” offers convincing value, reinforced by is 1,200-piece limitation and the included silicone strap. Seiko’s industrial scale continues to pay dividends in this segment, enabling the brand to...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has just unveiled a suite of new limited editions for the Italian market, which make their debut at the brand’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. While the showstopper is the new instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 5978P, Patek Philippe has expanded its range of complicated Calatravas with the Minute Repeater ref. 7047G, a new variant of a format that launched during Watches & Wonders, and the Perpetual Calendar ref. 7147G, which applies the brand’s familiar cal. 240-based perpetual calendar to a carbon-embossed Calatrava for the first time. Rounding out the selection of limited editions for the Italian market is the white-dialled time-only Calatrava ref. 7007G, a new Aquanaut ref. 5167 in stainless steel, and two variants of the World Time Minute Repeater ref. 5531G with enamel dials produced by Anita Porchet’s studio. Calatrava Minute Repeater ref. 7047G-010 While Patek Philippe is not an official partner of Ferrari, the vivid red dial feels distinctly Italian, suiting the Northern Italian location of the event. The colour makes it part of a trio of Calatravas in the colours of the Italian flag, but also has a connection to the history of this particular branch of the Calatrava family, making the automotive association more interesting than a passing resemblance to a red sports car. This generation of Calatrava, distinguished by its embossed “carbon” pattern dial and contemporary Arabic numerals, dates to the limited edition ref....
Monochrome
Recently, French brand Yema has expanded the Navygraf series beyond its traditional tool-watch format, experimenting with less conventional materials such as forged carbon and mother-of-pearl for the dial and bezel insert. The latest evolution goes much further back in time. Yema brings a slice of Muonionalusta meteorite, a material estimated to have formed around 4.5 […]
Monochrome
One of the oldest Swiss watchmaking brands (Founded in 1737 in Le Locle), Favre Leuba underwent a global relaunch in 2024 under the leadership of CEO Patrik P. Hoffmann and has since been pretty busy relaunching timepieces that honour the brand’s extensive archives while meeting contemporary mechanical expectations, all with relatively fair prices. Next to […]
Time+Tide
When considering a highly functional, reliable, no-nonsense timepiece that doesn’t break the bank, Seiko 5 undoubtedly comes to mind. Seiko also changed the game for affordable complications when it released the Seiko 5 GMT in 2022, making mechanical dual-time watches accessible to a whole new audience. Seiko’s first foray into this territory took the form of the … Continued
Hodinkee
What We Know It's always a great day when we get news from Bart and Tim Grönefeld. But this time, the news came with a lot of anticipation, as I've been getting a lot of texts and messages from people around the world asking what, exactly, the brothers were teasing on Instagram. First, I couldn't tell anyone, even if I did know—that's how embargoes work—but second, I only found out this morning. However, the brothers' new Quadrivium, with a 7.5-second remontoire with exposed governor, a one-minute flying tourbillon, central jumping seconds, and a power-reserve indicator, certainly was worth the anticipation. The watch combines highlights from the brand's history, especially the discontinued pieces customers kept asking for. The deadbeat seconds from the original One Hertz in 2010 are here. So is the GPHG-winning Parallax Tourbillon (which had a power reserve indicator) from 2014. Finally, the Remontoire was launched in 2016 and eventually became one of the earliest Hodinkee limited editions. All of this comes together in a compact 40mm by 11.3mm case, made in either tantalum or platinum, with the brand's "1941" collection design language: a polished, domed bezel; incut flanks and lugs; and a stepped shape to the downturned lugs as well. The dial is also quintessential Grönefeld, with a frosted main surface, hand-beveled stainless steel elements, and polished, multi-faceted white gold hour markers, topped with blued hands. The movement side is also exactly what you'd ...
Fratello
Héron has slowly been expanding its catalog. Earlier this year, the young Montreal-based brand introduced updated versions of its Marinor dive watch, which Mike reviewed. Now, Héron is introducing the completely new Continental collection. It’s a series of three vintage-inspired sports watches that work well for daily wear thanks to their modern execution. I got […] Visit Channeling My Inner Explorer With The Brand-New Héron Continental to read the full article.
Monochrome
Panerai‘s modern movement story began in 2005, when the company introduced the hand-wound P.2002, its first own calibre, combining a GMT function with an eight-day power reserve. In 2007, the brand expanded its calibre family, also introducing Panerai’s own interpretation of the tourbillon movement, the P.2005, with the tourbillon cage on an axis perpendicular to […]
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re pitting two affordable daily wearers against each other. They represent different sides of the watchmaking world, with one hailing from Switzerland and the other from Japan. But both brands have gained a lot of respect from watch enthusiasts […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand Vs. Tissot Gentleman 38mm to read the full article.
Fratello
When it comes to vintage watches, few brands have as much depth as Rolex. Over more than a century, the company has produced an enormous range of models, references, and variations that have become firmly established among collectors. From tool watches built for specific purposes to understated everyday models, there’s plenty to explore beyond the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having formed its brand identity with a cushion-shaped case inspired by 1970s designs, Singer Reimagined is now turning to another facet of that decade’s designs. The 1970 Dualtrack is angular with tall bezel and semi-integrated bracelet, marking an entirely new design language for the brand, which is an offshoot of cult “restomod” automaker Singer Vehicle Design. Like the earlier version of the model, the 1970 Dualtrack is a twin time zone watch with a “caller” GMT indicated via a 24-hour ring. It’s powered by an unusual movement with four spaced out barrels that combine for a six day power reserve. Initial thoughts The 1970 is a natural extension of Singer’s retro style that’s conceptually logical, but also appealing in terms of product. The new case design is wearable and also different enough from the cushion-shaped case to make it distinct. If anything, the 1970 might be too ordinary, making it less recognisable as a Singer creation. That said, the design is thoughtful. The attention to the detail in the design reflects Singer founder Marco Borracino’s background as a designer. The angular case has polished, chamfered edges that continue into the bracelet, while the polished bezel has high, fluted sides. It’s clearly inspired by the 1970s, but executed to a higher level than actual 1970s watches in this style that tended to be entry-level timepieces. And compared to the cushion-shaped cases that defined Singer until now, the new 1970 case is more c...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A watch’s measurements rarely tell the full story. We compare six cases we’ve worn to show how shape, lugs, thickness, and proportions change the fit.
WatchRider
When shopping for a women’s automatic watch, finding something that steps outside of traditional designs without becoming overly complicated can be a challenge. The Timex Celestial Opulence Automatic (TW2T86300) is a watch that attempts to strike that balance. It draws inspiration from the night sky and pairs it with a traditional mechanical movement. However, as many owners quickly discover, its eye-catching design comes with a practical drawback that you should be aware of before making it your daily timepiece. The Appeal of the Celestial Opulence Design Let’s talk about the best part of the Timex TW2T86300: the way it looks. I am really drawn to the design of this watch, specifically the combination of black and gold. The watch features a gold-tone stainless steel case paired with a deep black dial. It’s a classic color combination that works with almost everything in my wardrobe. Whether I’m just wearing jeans and a t-shirt or dressing up a little bit for an evening out, the black and gold colorway manages to fit right in. It looks rich and warm, but the black keeps it grounded so it doesn’t look cheap or overly bright. The dial is where the “Celestial” name comes into play. It has a night sky theme, featuring small stars and Swarovski crystals acting as the hour markers. I usually don’t like crystals on watches because they can look tacky, but here they are small enough that they just look like distant stars catching the light. Another cool detail ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
From compact military-inspired pieces to tougher everyday tool watches, these are the models that proved most versatile in our testing.
Monochrome
Recent releases from Union Glashütte have been largely about chronographs, from the latest Averin Chronograph with its white embossed tile-pattern dial to the Belisar Chronograph with its monochromatic look. Now, the Glashütte-based brand has something different in store with a new addition to its Seris family. Positioned as a more feminine collection, the Seris has […]
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