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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).

Grand Seiko White Birch Review: A Brand-Defining Future Classic Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Mar 5, 2026

Grand Seiko White Birch Review: A Brand-Defining Future Classic

Grand Seiko is a brand that’s adept at making the intricate seem effortless. This talent for restraint is best demonstrated dial side, specifically with its play with textures that call for a second (or third, fourth, and so on) look. While the deceptively simple “Snowflake” dial is among the brand’s most renowned examples of its mastery of subtlety, today, I’m pulling focus to another iconic example of Grand Seiko’s dial mastery with the more dramatic White Birch variation. Down below, I’ll be breaking down the importance of the “White Birch” SLGH005 in Grand Seiko’s recent history, some of its guiding design philosophies, as well as all the necessary specs you need to know. [toc-section heading="History And Context"] Debuting in 2021, the SLGH005 with its “White Birch” dial marked a historic turning point for the brand, and in the years since, it has become regarded as an example of the brand’s strengths firing on all cylinders. Before its introduction, Grand Seiko had already become synonymous with intricately textural dials (which, of course, drew inspiration from the natural world), but the White Birch texture is really when the brand turned up the heat an extra notch.  Before, the brand largely relied on radial and horizontal textures, and it isn’t a coincidence that the continuous series honoring the Japanese micro-seasons (most famous being the “Shun-bun”) was already in play before the White Birch hit the scene. Many of these dials...

Bangalore Watch Company Review: India's Horological Frontier Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 4, 2026

Bangalore Watch Company Review: India's Horological Frontier

When surveying the horological landscape, most roads lead back to Switzerland, Germany, or Japan. But there is a burgeoning watchmaking scene emerging in India of all places and it certainly deserves our attention. Here we are going to adjust our loupe to the vibrant, burgeoning powerhouse that is Indian horology, specifically the microbrand Bangalore Watch Company. When you survey the broader horological landscape today, microbrands have become the absolute frontier of enthusiast watchmaking. These small independents are giving collectors access to serious mechanical specifications and originality without the traditional luxury markups. India is finally translating its massive cultural and technological footprint into this segment of watch collecting, and Bangalore Watch Company appears to be at the forefront of this transition. In this article, we’ll take a deep dive into what makes these watches so unique and what you need to know before you add one to your collection. [toc-section heading="Filling the Void After HMT"] To truly understand what you’re getting with Bangalore Watch Company, you have to understand the massive void it stepped into. For decades, the Indian watch market had been dominated by state-run enterprise Hindustan Machine Tools, better known as HMT (the undisputed king of South Asian watchmaking during the 1960s and 80s). Estimates suggest that HMT’s lifetime production exceeded a staggering one hundred million timepieces, generating an appetite ...

Review: the Traska Chronograph Worn & Wound
Seiko NE86 automatic chronograph Dial Mar 3, 2026

Review: the Traska Chronograph

It’s gonna be cold, it’s gonna be grey, and it’s gonna last you the rest of your life. Okay, perhaps the quote from Groundhog Day has a bit too ominous of a tone when discussing a watch. Pretend maybe this was said in a nice way, give me a bit of a break (there’s been snow on the ground for 6 weeks) and we can move on with this hands-on of Traska’s newest entrance into the horological space – The Chronograph. This 39mm automatic chronograph is packed with features and comes in at a fairly reasonable $1650. The matte grey dial, unique approach to chronograph sub-dials, and attention to detail on finish and features makes this one stand out from the pack. Let’s take a closer look at this brand new piece from Traska that seems to check a lot of boxes that we as enthusiasts look for in our next watch.   $1650 Review: the Traska Chronograph Case Hardened Stainless Steel Movement Seiko NE86 automatic chronograph Dial Tungsten grey with applied indices Lume BGW9 SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Hardened stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 75 meters Dimensions 39 x 46.5mm Thickness 13.75mm Lug Width 21mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1650 Case Clocking in at a very reasonable 39mm wide, the Traska’s hardened steel case wears great on my 6.75” wrist. The case features a mix of brushed surfaces with polished bevels. It’s a nice mix of finishing that blends the more matte elements with the high shine polishing, resulting in a case that is interestin...

Best Watches For Kids: Fun And Practical Picks For All Ages Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 27, 2026

Best Watches For Kids: Fun And Practical Picks For All Ages

While I’m sure the internet primarily knows me as a watch writer/teeny tiny watch enthusiast, a lesser-known fact about me is that I used to teach English abroad in the first couple of years after I graduated from college. I might not have kids myself, but I do think this experience makes me uniquely qualified to scour the internet for the best kids' watches available today, and synthesize them into an easily digestible guide for those who want to share their love of watches with a young one in their life. From back in my classroom days, I know that durability and practicality are essential ingredients to a great watch for kids. I’ll also be going for a broad stylistic range, from the fun and playful to the more sophisticated, to account for both elementary school-age kids and those entering their tween years. Additionally, it does not strike me as wise to invest major cash into a child’s first watch, unless you are getting one early to then gift it to them at a more appropriate age, so I’ve also gone for the affordability factor as well.  [toc-section heading="Timex Time Machines"] In my opinion, Timex currently has one of the most impressive ranges of kids' watches, making pieces geared towards pre-schoolers all the way to tweens and teens. Dubbed the Time Machines collection by the brand, a huge drawis that all the brand’s kids’ watches come with a replacement program in case your little one happens to break or lose their new watch. Additionally, the highes...

Introducing: The All-Black IWC Portugieser Chronograph In Ceratanium Fratello
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Feb 26, 2026

Introducing: The All-Black IWC Portugieser Chronograph In Ceratanium

I have always thought of the IWC Portugieser as an elegantly styled chronograph or a clean time-only watch. Until today, that is, because the brand from Schaffhausen introduces an all-black Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium. Yes, please take a moment to let that sink in. Previously, the light, scratch-resistant Ceratanium material was used only in IWC’s […] Visit Introducing: The All-Black IWC Portugieser Chronograph In Ceratanium to read the full article.

Vaer Watches Review: American-Assembled with GADA Specs Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 24, 2026

Vaer Watches Review: American-Assembled with GADA Specs

Most people think that getting into "real" watches requires a heavy-duty investment or a deep knowledge of Swiss history. In reality, enjoying horology shouldn't require a trust fund or a PhD in movement calibers. But for a long time, the market felt split between cheap, disposable plastic watches and unattainable luxury pieces. There was simply no middle ground for a high-spec timepiece that you weren't afraid to use. It was exactly this dilemma that became the driving force behind California-based watchmaker, Vaer. The two ends of the watch-collecting scope left a huge gap for anyone who just wanted an affordable daily beater that could hold up during a weekend hike or a daily commute. So, Vaer pledged to fill that gap.  [toc-section heading="The Gamble – Why Vaer Exists"] VAER founders Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook Watch collecting can be an expensive hobby. In the world of horology, $10,000 is the type of money that secures a stainless steel Rolex Sub and a lifetime of brand prestige. For most young professionals with a passion for watches, saving up that first ten grand is a rite of passage. But for Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook, founders of Vaer watches, that money represented a fork in the road. When the two entrepreneurs looked at their savings, they could have gone one of two ways: walk into a boutique and leave with a trophy on their wrist, or bet every cent on a dream to build the "perfect" everyday watch that didn't yet exist. They chose the latter. C5 Field Bla...

Introducing – The New Rose Gold Edition of the Krayon Anyday Monochrome
Krayon Feb 23, 2026

Introducing – The New Rose Gold Edition of the Krayon Anyday

Rémi Maillat, a watch design engineer, is behind the independent Krayon brand and creates watches that centre on our connection with natural time cycles. Krayon’s award-winning Everywhere watch, which charts sunset and sunrise times at any location worldwide, was succeeded by Maillat’s slightly simpler Anywhere watch, showing the length of the day along with sunrise and […]

Editorial: the Ressence Renaissance Worn & Wound
Ressence Renaissance Without Feb 19, 2026

Editorial: the Ressence Renaissance

Without a doubt, I consider Ressence one of the most interesting watch brands that exists today. I recognize that this comes as an extremely bold and uniformed statement considering I’ve never seen a Ressence in the metal (a.k.a. ‘in person’ for any non-watch folks that somehow found their way here and are reading this). Considering their rarity and cost to acquire, many of y’all reading this probably haven’t seen one either; And to clarify up front: I don’t, or haven’t yet, reviewed watches for Worn & Wound; I just write somewhat interesting takes from a designers point of view on things that I find worthy, and this time around it just so happens to be the Ressence brand, of which I am deeply fond of having viewed it only on the interwebs; but I digress, back to the story! On paper, and through their perfectly crafted collaborations and partnerships, Ressence scratches all of my itches for a dream watch, albeit a watch that is extremely out of reach in price and availability for myself and many, hence the word ‘dream’. However, I fully respect and understand the price these watches sell for, because of Ressence’s approach to innovation and what goes into making each and every piece of art. I don’t actually like using the word innovative at all, if ever, because I think it is so grossly over used; but for Ressence I am happy to anoint them worthy of that distinction. This is not a new take, or a new perspective I hold, considering that Ressence has be...

Introducing: The Ba111od Chapter 8 Family Legacy Special Editions Fratello
Feb 19, 2026

Introducing: The Ba111od Chapter 8 Family Legacy Special Editions

Until now, I’ve spent most of my time looking at Ba111od’s integrated-bracelet sports watch, the Chapter 7. With that piece, the brand has created an affordable entry into this popular genre. But what about other models in the lineup? Today, we’ll look at the Chapter 8. However, this is a special pair of watches celebrating […] Visit Introducing: The Ba111od Chapter 8 Family Legacy Special Editions to read the full article.

Making A Case For Desk Clocks In A World Obsessed With Watches Fratello
Feb 19, 2026

Making A Case For Desk Clocks In A World Obsessed With Watches

There’s something slightly ironic about spending most of your day surrounded by watches yet rarely checking the time on your wrist. I’m guilty of often checking my phone rather than my watch. But when you work at a desk, the object that quietly governs your day isn’t the watch you chose that morning. Rather, it’s […] Visit Making A Case For Desk Clocks In A World Obsessed With Watches to read the full article.

Introducing: The Superfly RZE Resolute Type A - A New Take On An Old Concept Fratello
Feb 18, 2026

Introducing: The Superfly RZE Resolute Type A - A New Take On An Old Concept

Although the Singaporean brand RZE has only been around for five years, it quickly cemented itself as a fan-favorite microbrand. Combining a strong visual identity with unique technical execution and very sharp pricing, RZE’s founders have a winning recipe in hand. Today, I have the pleasure of introducing the next model, the Resolute Type A. […] Visit Introducing: The Superfly RZE Resolute Type A - A New Take On An Old Concept to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Brellum Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother Of Pearl Chronometer Fratello
Feb 16, 2026

Hands-On: The Brellum Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother Of Pearl Chronometer

We continue to be impressed by the watches from Brellum. The small brand produces a maximum of 299 pieces per year, which comprises several limited-edition releases. Today, we go hands-on with the latest model, the Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother of Pearl Chronometer. Yes, that’s a lot of words, but the important details worth noting […] Visit Hands-On: The Brellum Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother Of Pearl Chronometer to read the full article.

Nivada Grenchen Review: Modern Remakes, Classic Designs Teddy Baldassarre
Nivada Grenchen Feb 13, 2026

Nivada Grenchen Review: Modern Remakes, Classic Designs

To many watch enthusiasts today, Nivada Grenchen is a boutique watchmaker that seemed to pop up out of nowhere several years ago and quickly found itself in the neo-vintage price-to-value conversation, alongside a handful of other start-up microbrands. But in actuality, the brand turns 100 years old this year, and its retro-stylish, mostly tool-oriented watches are not merely following a trend of evoking a fondly remembered era of watch design; they are actually modern remakes of watches that the brand released decades ago. [toc-section heading="Nivada Grenchen History & Highlights"] Watchmaker Jacob Schneider established the workshop that became the Nivada brand in 1926, in the Swiss town of Grenchen (its Swiss-German name; the French-Swiss call it “Granges”). Unlike many of its contemporaries, which were still focusing on high-luxury timepieces, Nivada Grenchen put its emphasis from the start on practical, reliable tool watches, quickly gaining acclaim for its developments in this area. Schneider’s company also was among the first to merge traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with emerging industrial technologies. Starting in the 1930s, Nivada Grenchen became one of the first Swiss watchmaking companies to mass produce watches with automatic movements - an invention that had only been around since John Harwood patented the first one in 1923.  Nivada Grenchen (the “Grenchen” was officially added to the brand name after litigation by Movado, which was conc...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 Feb 13, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm

One of the longest tenured models in the Audemars Piguet (AP) catalogue, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm has been upgraded with a new manufacture calibre and sapphire case back for the first time, while only slightly tweaking the iconic design and price tag. Inside the new ref. 26450 is the cal. 6401 that incorporates with welcome quality-of-life improvements such as a longer power reserve, higher beat rate, and instantaneous date. The new movement accomplishes all of this without significant tradeoffs in size, but it arguably falls somewhat short in aesthetics. Minor shortcomings aside, the modestly sized Royal Oak Chronograph is a strong offering that enters the field at the top of its class. Initial thoughts In the same fashion as last year’s updated Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, the new 38 mm Royal Oak Chronograph takes an evolutionary, rather than revolutionary, step forward, being essentially the same watch, only better. AP clearly knows better than to mess with a winning formula, but the brand also faced challenges, both in manufacturing and customer experience, that came with a nearly four-decade-old movement platform, sourced from Swatch Group no less. The changes are slight, even insignificant at first glance, but are the sort things that come to be appreciated with long-term ownership, especially within a smaller collection where increases in power reserve and performance are most noticeable. It even looks slightly better – the dial is less cram...

Seiko Luxe Presage SPB495 Review: An Enamel Value Proposition Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Feb 9, 2026

Seiko Luxe Presage SPB495 Review: An Enamel Value Proposition

Seiko has one of the most expansive catalogs in the watch industry, which is key to the Japanese brand’s prowess, but its nuances can also make it quite overwhelming at times to sort through from a consumer perspective. Today, I’m going for hyperspecificity on multiple levels, not only focusing on the brand’s “Luxe” tier, but also on a specific series within that tier, and on one watch, well, specifically. As you’ve likely already noticed from this article's title, we’re gathered here today to jump into the deep end with the Presage Classics Craftsmanship Series SPB495. Though its name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, the Seiko Presage SPB495, to me, truly demonstrates the dynamic range to be found within the contemporary Seiko lineup, given that you have the patience to sort through the complexities of the brand’s collections and naming convention nuances. [toc-section heading="History And Context"]  Seiko’s Craftsmanship series officially made its start in 2013 as the brand celebrated its centennial anniversary. Positioned within the larger Presage collection, this initiative has been a way for the brand to further enhance the collection's foundational elements, mainly being a mechanical line, guided by and harkening to Seiko’s centuries-long history, with a focused attention to its dials. Essentially, the Craftsmanship series adds in more sophisticated, high-end elements into the mix, paying tribute to many traditional, artisanal techniques th...

Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Feb 8, 2026

Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue

If you’ve listened to Balazs and me on Fratello On Air, you’ll know that I have a huge crush on Parmigiani Fleurier. Specifically, the Tonda PF 36mm is on my radar, but if my wrist were larger, today’s watch would be a likely candidate. Specifically, the brand has introduced the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue, […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Rotocall Re-Editions Vs. Casio G-Shock Square In Steel Fratello
Seiko Rotocall Re-Editions Vs Casio Feb 8, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Rotocall Re-Editions Vs. Casio G-Shock Square In Steel

Good morning, Fratelli, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Today will be a fully digital installment. When Seiko introduced the “Rotocall” re-editions, many enthusiasts got excited. The original ’80s watch, also known as the “Astronaut,” was used on many space missions, and its practical, uniquely designed bezel is a standout feature. We already put […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Rotocall Re-Editions Vs. Casio G-Shock Square In Steel to read the full article.

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic Fratello
Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic Urwerk Feb 6, 2026

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic

Urwerk is always up to something fun, and today’s new UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic is proof. While we’ve seen this complication before, it now comes with some novel material innovations. Let’s have a closer look. It doesn’t feel like so long ago that we were visiting Urwerk’s headquarters during Geneva Watch Days. However, only six months […] Visit Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic to read the full article.

Hands On: TAG Heuer’s Seafarer Navigates the Tides SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Seafarer Navigates Feb 6, 2026

Hands On: TAG Heuer’s Seafarer Navigates the Tides

One of the most talked-about watches of this year’s LVMH Watch Week, the TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer reimagines Heuer’s quirky midecentury tide-tracker in the contemporary Carrera ‘Glassbox’ format. With its warm hues and vibrant teal accents, the Seafarer captures much of the charm of the original while incorporating most (if not all) of the brand’s latest technical upgrades. Initial thoughts The Carrera Seafarer belongs to the tradition of historical reissues, in the same vein as watches like the Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” and Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 that give new life to past icons. While these reruns can get tiring, there continue to be instances in which the original model has become too iconic to not be given another go.  Such is the case with the Seafarer, a quirky creation from the 1940s originally sold under the Abercrombie & Fitch name, which was, at the time, a premium sporting goods retailer trusted by the likes of Ernest Hemingway. Interestingly, the original was never a true commercial success, but its novel complication and vibrant colourways have since made it highly collectible in recent years.  Much like early Rolex Daytonas, the original Seafarers were under appreciated in their time but later gained a niche following. Dressed in the modern Carrera Glassbox case, the Seafarer shines with its champagne-coloured dial, blocky typeface and playful chromatics. Thankfully the reissue stays true to the original’s purpos...

Review: Casio G-Shock GW6900 Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Feb 5, 2026

Review: Casio G-Shock GW6900

G-Shock continues to fill an important role in the landscape of watch collecting, almost solely occupying a genre that it essentially created. G-Shock watches are practical, accessible, and functional; but they’re also so much more than that. They are expressive, vibrant, and fun. Their impact on the broader culture around watches can’t be understated, and it’s a connection that remains intact today, over 40 years after emerging onto the scene, and over 30 years since the formation of the 6900 lineage. The design that hails from 1995 has changed surprisingly little, and remains one of the vanishingly few items that can make that claim without looking completely out of place on the wrist today. As the saying goes, good design is timeless. I’m not so sure this is technically "good" design, but it is unique and timeless in its own way. When it first debuted in 1995, the 6900 design used a rounded case, representing a departure from the blocky cases that had typically defined what a G-Shock was. Situated above the square digital display were a trio of circular graphics, with a button situated under the dial itself, all set within a shock-resistant structure. The watch brought the best features of the 5000, the 5900, and the 6600 together, creating a "best of all worlds" in a way. These features represented unlimited possibilities, and were almost mysterious at a glance, but they signaled just what was possible with a digital display.  Those three circular graphics wer...

Breitling Launches First Titanium Navitimer in New Aston Martin Collab Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Feb 5, 2026

Breitling Launches First Titanium Navitimer in New Aston Martin Collab

Breitling announced today that it has become the Official Watch Partner of  British luxury carmaker Aston Martin and the Aston Martin Aramco Formula One racing team. The multi-year global partnership, which marks the Swiss watchmaker’s return to the high-octane world of F1 motorsports after many decades, kicks off with a wristwatch milestone: the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team, which is no less than the first timepiece in the iconic Navitimer series with a case made of lightweight titanium.  The two world-renowned companies have some ties throughout their prestigious histories. Breitling, while it has not been as visible in the racing world over the years as brands like Rolex and TAG Heuer, was an early contributor to motorsport timing. In 1907, Léon Breitling, who had founded his eponymous watchmaking firm in 1884, invented a device called the “Vitesse” (French for “speed”), a mechanical chronograph capable of measuring speeds up to 250 miles per hour. Its utility and precision spurred the Swiss police to adopt it for speed enforcement, which led to the world’s first speeding tickets. Just six years later, in 1913, Lionel Martin and Robert Bamford drove their hand-built automobile to a defining victory up the treacherous Aston Hill, giving their company a name and kicking off a long tradition of making cars built for both performance and luxury. The paths of the Swiss high-horology house and the British marque cr...

First Look – The New Niton Prima Revives a Historic Name Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Cartier Gubelin Feb 5, 2026

First Look – The New Niton Prima Revives a Historic Name

The revival of a long-dormant watchmaking name always sparks our curiosity at MONOCHROME. Born in 1919, the Manufacture des Montres Niton S.A. became known for its watches and movements featuring jumping hours. Niton supplied movements to Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, Gubelin and many more… Today, the brand returns with the Niton Prima, an elaborate […]

Introducing: The Mind-Blowing Audemars Piguet 150 Heritage Pocket Watch Fratello
Audemars Piguet 150 Heritage Pocket Watch Feb 5, 2026

Introducing: The Mind-Blowing Audemars Piguet 150 Heritage Pocket Watch

We have seen quite a lot of news from Le Brassus this week, haven’t we? If you thought we were done, think again! In fact, we’re barely getting warmed up. Today, I get to introduce you to possibly the most impressive of all the new releases, the Audemars Piguet 150 Heritage pocket watch. Now, before […] Visit Introducing: The Mind-Blowing Audemars Piguet 150 Heritage Pocket Watch to read the full article.