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Revolution
Wind, Water and Watches: Panerai at the 37th America’s Cup
SJX Watches
Zenith and Porter-Yoshida Pilot Watches in Green Ceramic
Porter, a Japanese cult brand famous for its functional nylon bags, has lent its signature colours to Zenith to create the Pilot Central Automatic Porter and the Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph Porter. The new Pilot duo retain the familiar aviation-inspired design, but in green with orange accents, including for the first time a case in khaki green ceramic. Both models are delivered with two straps: a conventional Cordura-effect rubber strap and a green nylon strap made by Porter. Initial thoughts While the Pilot Porter isn’t an iconic classic like Zenith’s El Primero, it is a unique take on the traditional aviator’s watch that is different but still functional, not unlike Porter bags that are popular for their no-frills quality. The green and orange livery is appealing and avoids the usual pilot’s watch look, but remains entirely legible and utilitarian. Priced at US$11,300 for the time-only variant and US$15,500 for the chronograph, the Pilot Porter is priced comparably to the equivalent regular-production Pilot models. Though both are more expensive than Zenith’s offerings in steel, they are priced reasonably enough considering the material and movement, as well as the competition. Khaki green Porter is the most famous label owned by Yoshida & Co., a Japanese maker of luggage and bags. Usually in dark-coloured nylon with contrast-colour lining, Porter bags are multi-pocketed and useful (and also quite pricey for nylon bags). The Pilot Porter models adopt th...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Alfred Helwig’s Flying Tourbillon in Wrist- and Pocket Watches
The flying tourbillon marks the beginning of my career as a watch dealer and collector. In the mid-1970s, I met a former fellow pupil of mine, Richard Miklosch, in a little antique shop in my hometown of Aachen. At the time, I was unaware that Miklosch (1939-2014), originally a technical schoolteacher, had become a highly sought-after watchmaker specialising in pocket watch tourbillons (Fig. 1) – to his great credit being entirely self-taught in the field [1, p. 198][1, pp. 374-377][2, p. 140][3, p. 40]. That is how Theodor Beyer, who ran Chronometrie Beyer and Beyer Uhrenmuseum in Zürich, came to have a Miklosch tourbillon, as well as a George Daniels tourbillon, in his collection. I told him about my growing fascination for watches and my plans to start organising auctions specialised in this field. Miklosch looked at me sympathetically, and, pulling a watch out of his pocket he said: “This is one of the best precision timepieces ever made”. Although I had only rudimentary knowledge of the subject at the time, I was immediately struck by the visual aesthetics of the movement. It was one of the flying tourbillons from the famous Glashütte School; to be precise the 1930-1931 tourbillon made by Max Hahn marked “School no. 3673” and “Special no. 21”. That was my eureka moment and one that ultimately marked the beginning of my watch career. Some of these iconic watches were to pass through my hands in the following 50 years, or even to find a place in my colle...
Worn & Wound
Awake Gives Us a Lesson in Creating Watches for Future Generations
The concept of a “mid-life crisis” has long had a negative connotation thanks to the word “crisis” implying a moment of difficulty, but I’d suggest we rethink this as a mid-life turning point. For Lilian Thibault, founder of Awake, this moment came when he reached a certain age and his kids began to grow. He took the opportunity to turn a mid-life crisis into a mid-life reinvention. After years of investing in other successful businesses, he decided to invest in himself and his own passions. Lilian had been an avid watch collector for more than two decades, and in 2018 he set out to create his own brand-Awake was born. “As my kids are growing older, I’ve started to think more and more about the legacy that will be left behind for them,” Lilian told me. “I decided I wanted to bring my own brand to market that reflects the vision I would like to see in the world for the next generation. This is, in fact, why I chose the name ‘Awake,’ I have a mission to awaken people’s attention to beauty and what really matters in life.” Lilian Thibault To bring his vision to life, Lilian launched a Kickstarter to raise funds for production in 2018. The campaign was originally planned to run for a month, but the brand reached its goal of $30,000 within an hour and ended up raising $400,000-Lilian was clearly onto something, and his vision was resonating. A year later, the brand unveiled its first collection aptly named “Origins.” In the spirit of thinking a...
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Ben Clymer Presents: Ep. 02 - The 10 Years of Talking Watches Episode With Danny Milton
Worn & Wound
Heinrich Introduces New Watches Featuring Carbon Dials with Integrated Lume
Germany is the home of many prominent timepiece manufacturers. The most notable city known for watchmaking is Glashütte; however, another city, Pforzheim,, located roughly 560 kilometers away, has its own proud watchmaking history. Brands calling Pforzheim home include Circula, Laco, Limes, Stowa, and others, along with the famous case maker Ickler, whose work supplies numerous watch brands worldwide. Heinrich is a watch brand located in Stuttgart, less than an hour from Pforzheim. This proximity allows brand founder Wolfgang Heinrich to collaborate with skilled watchmakers to develop new sport and dive watches that take inspiration from the 1970s while incorporating a unique twist. Twist barely describes their latest creation, the Taucher Infused Forged Carbon V2. If that sounds like a mouthful, it is, but it is also an eyeful. These watches feature dials and bezel inserts made from colored forged carbon combined with SuperLuminova BGW9. We are not only referring to the indices, minute track, and bezel markings being lumed; instead, we mean that the dial and bezel material itself is integrated with lume. The fusion of materials in each watch is unique, ensuring no two are alike. The 41mm stainless steel case measures 13.6mm to the top of the boxed sapphire crystal, and due to the very short lugs, it has a compact length of 47.8mm from lug tip to lug tip. This watch should fit nearly everyone comfortably. Although it has a 1970s throwback style, this case is 200 meters ...
Worn & Wound
The Best Chronograph Watches for Beginners Under $1,000
When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate from that of a wristwatch. Enter the chronograph. Adding a stopwatch compilation - that is, a feature beyond telling the time - to a traditional watch was revolutionary when it was invented in the nineteenth century. Today, they are one of the most popular types of watches amongst enthusiasts for their storied heritage and visual appeal. (As Omega will have you know, they’ve even been to the moon.) But for many enthusiasts, they can feel out of reach - mechanically complex, they require significantly greater purchase and service costs. Luckily, there’s an alternative: quartz. Quartz chronograph movements circumvent those two major shortfalls, allowing for greater reliability and reduced cost. With that, here are some of our favorite affordable chronographs for beginners. Should you see anything you like, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate f...
Revolution
Sincere Fine Watches’ 70th Anniversary: Zenith Presents The Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
Quill & Pad
Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity – Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin – And What is a ‘Grail Watch’ Anyway?
“The Holy Trinity,” as any watch nerd knows, refers to the triumvirate of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Colin Smith takes a look at what we mean – or think we mean - when we describe PP, AP, and VC as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and when we describe a timepiece as our “grail watch.”
Revolution
IAMWATCH 2024: New Watches And Everything That’s Happening So Far
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Top 20 Watches Under $1000 (Dive, Dress, Chrono, GMT, Field)
Hodinkee
Photo Report: The Wonderful Watches Of UBS House Of Craft NYC
You won't believe your eyes.
Revolution
Buy Vintage Watches with Confidence: Timepiece Grading Specialists With Fred Savage
Quill & Pad
Energy Management in Mechanical Watches: The Pulse of Precision
The ticking of a mechanical watch is more than just a sound; it is the heartbeat of time itself. Beneath the watch’s dial lies a world of intricate mechanics driven by energy.
Revolution
The Hodinkee Acquisition: Watches of Switzerland’s Bold Move Signals a New Era for Watch Media
Monochrome
Portrait – Gagà Laboratorio, When Italian Design Meets Swiss Precision in Luxury Watches
The current watch market is polarized and most often highlighted by the major and mainstream brands on one hand, and let’s say, all the rest on the other hand. Among the latter, on the fringes of the groups and a few independent and historical brands, a swarm of new brands has emerged in recent years […]
Video
The 7 Greatest Watches Under $1,000.
Revolution
The GPHG 2024 Watches Are Now On Their World Tour: Here’s Where to View Them
Worn & Wound
Micro-Brand Digest: Featuring Watches from The Sacred Crafts, Barrington Griffiths, and Alato
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to Kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project, you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Alato Watches Swedish brand Alato Klokor was founded in 2023 in Gothenburg by Pierre Strömbäck. With a background in architecture and civil engineering, as well as professional experience in the construction industry, he possesses a keen eye for both form and function. All their watches are designed in their small studio in Sweden and manufactured in Hong Kong by a factory with a proven record for reliability and quality control. They are a small company with big goals. They aim to unite collectors through the stories of their watches. Their first piece is named Arvet (The Legacy), drawing inspiration from the Reuleaux Triangle, a curved geometric shape with a constant width. The latter is formed from the intersection of three circular disks, each with its center on the boundary of the other two. It is named after Franz Reuleaux, a 19th-century German engineer who pioneered the study of machines for translating one type of motion into another. This shape is...
Quill & Pad
Light Me Up: The Insanely Colorful Lume of Black Badger James Thompson’s Watches (Lume Fest!)
Working with creative makers like De Bethune, MB&F;, Stepan Sarpaneva, Bamford, Linde Werdelin and more, Gothenburg-based James Thompson – aka Black Badger – has become industry famous as the driving force of a new school of applications of luminous materials. Anders Modig takes us through Black Badger's history, along the way highlighting many of his colorful watch collaborations.
Revolution
Sincere Fine Watches 70th Anniversary: Franck Muller Presents a Special Vanguard Timepiece in Full Damascus Steel
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: New Watches From Hamilton, Tudor, And More; Talking Tiffany & Co.'s Untapped Watchmaking Potential
Plus, a Collecting Advice for a world-traveling free diver.
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Is Watches & Wonders worth it?
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: The Watches We'd Like To Inherit
Doing our best to stay in the will.
Revolution
Timekeepers of Triumph: Discovering the Elite Watches of the 2024 Paris Olympics
Revolution
Bvlgari To Exhibit at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025
Worn & Wound
Habring² Pilot Watches: A Tale of Two Fun (and Rare) Complications
My journey with Habring² started back in 2009 when my girlfriend (now wife) and I decided to spend a cozy weekend in Vienna. At the time, I was living and working in Prague, thus it was an easy drive to Vienna. On a chilly November morning, after a delightful breakfast, we wandered through the city. That’s when I noticed these enormous banners showcasing various watch brands for an event called Vienna Time. Among them was a banner for Habring². I had been a fan of the brand but had never seen any of their watches in person. So, I jumped at the chance to visit and meet the brand’s founders, Richard and Maria Habring. Fast forward to today, after knowing the Habrings for so many years, I can honestly say they are some of the most down-to-earth and caring people you’ll ever meet. And it shows in their watchmaking too. I like to call it “honest watchmaking.” Their watches are reasonably priced, especially considering the various complications they offer. Even the packaging is charmingly unpretentious-a compact wooden box that simply says, “made with love.” In this box, the Habrings also include spare parts necessary for the first service with our preferred local watchmaker-a practical consideration. The Habrings do not like to discuss Richard’s past accomplishments at various big brands like IWC and Lange. However, they are well documented online. As a primer, I would recommend reading this Hodinkee article by Jason Heaton, and this WatchProZine write-up ...
Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance explained by Armin Strom’s Chief Watchmaker Claude Greisler on The Watches TV (Video)
The Armin Strom Dual-Time GMT Resonance displays two independent time zones, with indications of hours and minutes for each. Dual regulators are link by a patented Resonance Clutch Spring to average out their oscillations and offer better precision.
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