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Highlights: Phillips ‘Refresh:Reload’ Online-Only Auction SJX Watches
De Bethune DB12 chronograph May 19, 2020

Highlights: Phillips ‘Refresh:Reload’ Online-Only Auction

Phillips’ first-ever online watch auction, Refresh:Reload is a cross-category affair, encompassing watches, jewellery, and contemporary art. The week-long sale includes over 50 watches, ranging from the usual suspects like Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Submariner, but also a selection of more interesting, unconventional watches, like a De Bethune DB12 chronograph with oversized date and month, and an extra-thin, skeletonised Seiko Credor. Here are a couple of highlights from the sale, which is online from now till 6 pm (GMT+8) on May 28. The entire catalogue is available here. Lot 5 – Bronze Hourglass by Daniel Arsham One of the earliest lots in the auction is a sculpture with a horological element. The Bronze Hourglass was an edition of 100 examples commissioned by watch retailer The Hour Glass to mark its 40th anniversary in 2019. It’s the work of Daniel Arsham, one of today’s hottest contemporary artists. Mr Arsham is best known for his “eroded” works, objects made to appear heavily aged. Some of his work sits the crossroads between art and luxury goods – he’s applied his unique aesthetic to Rimowa luggage, Dior bags, and also a Porsche 911. The Bronze Hourglass has an estimate of HK$35,000-45,000, or about US$4,500-6,000. Lot 92 – Seiko Credor 40th Anniversary Signo Cherry Blossoms A limited edition made to mark the 40th anniversary of Seiko’s Credor collection, the Signo Cherry Blossoms encapsulates the key specialties of mechanical watchmaking at S...

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INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light one May 7, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was among the vanguard of the first luxury sports watches when it was released in 1975. But it hasn’t stayed in the past, with the constantly evolving new materials and technologies used by the brand in this collection bringing it convincingly into 2020 (with materials such as the electric-looking Carbon Glass, which … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light, one of the most curious sapphire crystal-cased watches yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Absolute Light SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces May 4, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Absolute Light

Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch is available in the usual range of materials, as well as some unusual carbon-glass composites, and now sapphire with the Laureato Absolute Light. At first glance it appears to adhere to a common formula – executing a well-known case design in sapphire – but Girard-Perregaux has tweaked a few elements to make it a little more interesting, while maintaining transparent-mechanical look prized in such watches. Initial thoughts Ultra-luxe sports watches with sapphire cases are surprisingly common, despite the accompanying price tag. Typically the design can be varied little, since what most brands do is produce their signature style in sapphire. So the way to stand out is to make the details a little bit more interesting, and the price tag a little less high. Girard-Perregaux has succeeded in the former – amongst the interesting details here are the movement and hours chapter ring – while doing so-so on the latter. At 85,000 Swiss francs, the Laureato Absolute Light is a lot of money, but amongst sapphire-case sports watches, the price is middle of the road. Framed by lugs The 44 mm case is typical Laureato, which is a circle within an octagon within a tonneau-shaped case. Admittedly the standard Laureato does bear a strong resemblance to a handful of famous Gerald Genta case designs, but when rendered in sapphire the Laureato does look quite original. The case construction is unusual in that the titanium lugs bookend each side ...

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INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection Apr 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection

The translucent blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea often conjure images of beach towels draped over deckchairs, shade umbrellas and Aperol Spritz, offering sunbakers relief from a cloudless sky, and small fishing boats rocking back and forth not far from shore. It is this idyllic scene that Panerai has embraced with their latest collection of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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New: Montblanc Novelties for 2020 with Editorial Commentary Deployant
Montblanc Novelties Apr 29, 2020

New: Montblanc Novelties for 2020 with Editorial Commentary

Montblanc is building up its identity as the adventurer brand, heritage sports. In particular, there is, as with many other brands, the obsession with navigation and the reminiscence of European adventurism. Of the models this year, the brand has mostly stuck to its guns with the Geosphere, and Monopusher. The 24 hour single hand watch is also rather unique. The case dimensions for the watches remain on the more hefty side of things, as expected especially with the thicker movement Monopusher automatic.

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Up Close: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon Apr 27, 2020

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

The flagship of IWC’s new Portugieser watches unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2020 is not the most complicated, but it is certainly the most unusual. The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is a first for IWC, introducing a brand-new complication to its line-up – a tide indication that tracks the ocean’s ebbs and flows. Initial thoughts The Yacht Club Moon & Tide is a big, heavy and shiny sports watch with twin sub-dials, but it is far more interesting than the typical watch in this category (which is almost always a chronograph). One of the very rare, comprehensive tide-display watches on the market, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide incorporates twin tidal displays, which are useless for most but fascinating, not just because they are rare but also because they are, in essence, an astronomical complication. And the tidal displays are combined with IWC’s trademark double moon phase, making it a bit more compelling. (But like all tide-indicator watches, the new Yacht Club has a caveat: IWC points out it “works reliably on all coasts with two equally strong high and low tides per day”. It is not a flaw, but just a nature of the complication. More that below.) At the same time, the watch overall is constructed to IWC’s usual levels of quality, which is to say excellent. The only downside is the rose-gold case, resulting in a steep price tag; hopefully a steel or titanium version comes along (and it probably will). The tidal watch, until now The tide-indicator complicatio...

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INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 26, 2020

INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow

A. Lange & Söhne don’t always do things by the book. The year is 2019. The demand for steel luxury sports watches is at an all-time high. And along comes the brand’s brand new Odysseus model. The polarising design (with naysayers focusing on the thicc steel bracelet as a flaw) took the established trope of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Datomatic in White Gold SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 24, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Datomatic in White Gold

There was much anticipation in the lead up to A. Lange & Söhne’s launch of the Odysseus last year, which met with mixed receptions. The luxury-sports watch represented a few firsts for Lange – a first foray into sports watches, the brand’s first regular-production steel watch, and for the nerds, subtle technical features not seen before in other movements. Unsurprisingly, the inaugural steel model is now been joined by a precious metal version, the Odysseus in white gold. While the new watch is functionally similar to the steel model, the gold version is set apart with a handful of dial details, and the more obvious strap choices. Nips and tucks The dial gets a couple of tweaks to distinguish it, going with a muted, monotone grey instead of dark blue. More subtle are the differences in the dial finishing, with a stamped radial pattern reminiscent of the Langematik Perpetual Honey Gold, replacing the concentric rings found on the steel model. And the central portion of the dial is finished with a more conventional fine frosting, rather than the pronounced, granular surface found on the steel model. While the debut Odysseus was offered only with a steel bracelet, the white gold version is offered only with leather or rubber straps that connect to the watch via proprietary end-links incorporating a quick-release mechanism. While the leather strap is ordinary brown calfskin, the rubber is more than run-of-the-mill rubber strap and features raised vents on the reverse ...

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Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Apr 16, 2020

Breitling Introduces the Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection

Following the Navitimer 1 Airline Editions and the Aviator 8 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, Breitling has now introduced its next limited-production capsule collection, the Superocean Heritage ’57. Modelled on the brand’s first dive watch, the SuperOcean ref. 1004, the new range also includes a lively rainbow limited edition with multi-coloured hour markers. As scuba diving and other aquatic sports became popular in the early 1950s, dive watches being a thing, with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster 300 all making their debut that decade. Breitling’s entry into the dive watch stakes as the SuperOcean. While the watch is now less known than its contemporaries, the SuperOcean had a strikingly bold and unusual design despite being some six decades old. It was characterised by a wide bezel with a concave surface intended to protect the domed acrylic crystal, and a dial featuring dagger-shaped indices with additional oversized spheres at the quarters. The quirky, retro style has been reintroduced in full with the Superocean Heritage ’57. Superocean Heritage ’57 Capsule Collection The capsule collection consists of three iterations: in stainless steel with a blue or black dial, and a steel case with a rose-gold bezel paired with a black dial. All are powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 10, which is an ETA 2892-A2. Entirely polished, the case measures 42 mm wide and 9.99 mm high, making it 4 mm thinner than the standard Superocean He...

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What Sealed The Deal – Peter’s Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570, “when I got it there wasn’t a huge amount of demand” Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer II Ref 216570 Mar 21, 2020

What Sealed The Deal – Peter’s Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570, “when I got it there wasn’t a huge amount of demand”

The Explorer II often does the rounds at the top of ‘the most underrated Rolex model’ list, and it’s not difficult to see why. In addition to many of the attractive hallmarks of steel sports Rolex models, it also has just a dash more personality – is it the pop of orange that catches your eye? … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Peter’s Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570, “when I got it there wasn’t a huge amount of demand” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MHD Watches Introduces the Automotive-Inspired SA2 SJX Watches
Feb 13, 2020

MHD Watches Introduces the Automotive-Inspired SA2

Founded by a former car designer, Matthew Humphries Design (MHD) unsurprisingly sells automobile-inspired watches. The most original to date is the SA2, a time-only automatic with a distinctive case that seems familiar but is novel in form. MHD was founded in 2014 by Matthew Humphries, who, at age 21, became head of design at Morgan Motor Company, the maker of lightweight, retro sports cars that are hand-assembled and distinctly British. Amongst his creations during his stint at Morgan were the Aeromax, Aero SuperSports as well as the peculiar yet cool 3-Wheeler. Unsurprisingly given Morgan’s quirky and compact cars that still use wood for the body frame, the SA2 is slightly retro, while being notably refined and clean for a watch designed on the automotive-theme – one that is often characterised by eccentric, aesthetically-charged watches. A restrained use of colour allows the design of the SA2 to speak for itself. “Exoskeleton chassis case” Available in three different variants, the SA2’s defining feature is undoubtedly its case. While the outline is the common cushion form – at a glance it might be mistaken for yet another retro, cushion-shaped watch – the case is actually a skeletonised frame holding the case middle, a construction inspired by the chassis of a lightweight race car. Composed of four parts, the round case middle is supported by a thin, cushion-shaped frame with fixed bars at each end for the strap. Wide but slim, the case measures 41mm by 4...

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RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Solar Clock While Patek Jan 31, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock

While Patek Philippe are kept most popularly in the mind today through a handful of steel sports watches and the lyrics of chart-topping songs, the company has a history of remarkable innovation that is sometimes overlooked. In the middle of last century - 1950 to be precise - the Genevan firm released a solar-powered table clock, an … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium SJX Watches
Breguet Marine 5517 Jan 23, 2020

Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium

Breguet today is highly regarded for its watches that classically designed but often powered by innovative, high-tech movements, like the Classique Chronométrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots, or the recent, elaborately finished skeleton tourbillon 5395. The brand is not, however, known for its luxury-sports watches (its line of Type XX aviator’s chronographs are entry-level and not quite sports watches). But last year Breguet unveiled the latest – and best – version of its luxury-sports watch, the Marine 5517. An under-appreciated contender in the category, the new Marine more conservative in style than its competition, but built to an admirably high standard. The Marine 5517 in titanium with a matching bracelet Horloger de la Marine Unlike its competitors, Breguet was relatively late to the luxury-sports watch segment (though not as late as A. Lange & Söhne, which launched the Odysseus last year); the original Marine only made its debut in 1990. The model name was inspired by Breguet’s appointment in 1815 as Horloger de la Marine – clockmaker to the French navy, an appointment it held for over 150 years. Designed by Jorg Hysek, perhaps the most famous watch designers of the 1990s, the first-generation Marine was distinguished by its fluted, domed crown, but otherwise looked pretty much like any other Breguet. That was replaced in 2005 by the second generation, a major redesign that gave it a more distinctive style. The practical robustness of the Marine...

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Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Creative Director at Bulgari Watches SJX Watches
Bulgari Watches Noted watch designers Jan 22, 2020

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Creative Director at Bulgari Watches

Noted watch designers are usually prolific, but often famous for a handful, or even just one or two, creations. The obvious example is the late Gerald Genta, who conceived tens of thousands of designs, but is best known for his twin luxury-sports watches of 1972 and 1976. And so it is for Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the chief watch designer at Bulgari. Born in Naples but having moved to Rome as a child, the 49-year old joined Bulgari in 2001, after a short stint at Fiat in Turin straight out of design school. Over the 19 years designing watches for Bulgari, with several spent as a freelancer in the mid 2000s, he has created numerous and diverse timepieces, but the Octo Finissimo is his definitive work to date. The sleek and exceptionally thin watch has won critical acclaim, as well as many awards, since its launch in 2014. While it is probably too early to elevate the design to iconic status – something he admits below – the Octo Finissimo certainly has a good chance of getting there. The new Octo Finissimo in steel Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani I admire Mr Buonamassa Stigliani’s work with the Octo Finissimo, and though I managed to speak with him on several occasions over the years, they were brief conversations. But at last week’s LVMH Watch Week in Dubai – where Bulgari, Hublot, and Zenith presented their latest timepieces – I spoke with him at length. In an enlightening interview, he discussed the conception and construction of the Octo Finissimo, watch ...

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