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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).

Tudor North Flag Review: Discontinued But Worth a Comeback? Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Nov 5, 2025

Tudor North Flag Review: Discontinued But Worth a Comeback?

We recently took a deep dive into the Tudor Ranger, and today, I’m going to go boldly forth and explore what I consider to be the Ranger’s spiritual sibling, albeit a discontinued one: the Tudor North Flag. Both watches have similar roots in 20th-century polar exploration, but while the Ranger looks to the past for its design codes, the North Flag, at its time, had its sights set on the future. While it marked a huge leap forward in Rolex-owned Tudor’s contemporary legacy and ultimately, further set the stage for the brand to finally come out of the looming shadow of the Crown, the North Flag has already become a relic of Tudor’s not-so-distant past. Down below, I’ll be taking you through a brief history lesson on the watch at hand, detailing the key design codes and features, and exploring why some vocal enthusiasts out there are begging for the North Flag to make a comeback.  Tudor North Flag History For most of the 20th century, Tudor leaned on its intrinsic connection to Rolex to boost its credibility, but by the 1990s, the brand’s reputation as Rolex’s “little brother” or “Rolex Lite” fell out of favor with the general watch-wearing public. Affordability as a guiding virtue was not, for lack of a better word, sexy anymore. Tudor had not differentiated itself enough from its more luxurious relative to stand effectively on its own, globally. The brand fled the U.S. market entirely in the late '90s, and it would spend over a decade working behind t...

Hands-on – The Elegant and Refined Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529 Nov 4, 2025

Hands-on – The Elegant and Refined Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB529

The Seiko Presage Classic Series has been on a quiet roll. Last year’s SPB463/465/467 trio set the tone with soft, bowl-shaped cases, curved dials inspired by silk, and a 3-day automatic movement that made the Presage feel both more Japanese and more purposeful. The open-heart SPB469/471 extended the idea with radial “raw silk” textures and […]

Seiko SPB149 Review: The Blue Dial Prospex Diver Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 3, 2025

Seiko SPB149 Review: The Blue Dial Prospex Diver

An outsized part of Seiko’s history is within its dive watch heritage, going all the way back to 1965 with the company's first dedicated diver, the 150-meter 62MAS, released as the 6217-8000, and later, its larger-crowned sibling, the 6217-8001. It was the beginning of a lineage that went on to include legendary references like the Willard, the Turtle, the Marinemaster, the Tuna, and the SKX, just to name a small assortment of them. Today, Seiko’s broad dive-watch lineup is well-known for its rugged dependability: from the entry-level Prospex models to the elevated Luxe variants like the Seiko SPB149, there’s a Seiko diver for every enthusiast. Seiko has paid tribute to the 62MAS design in the past with limited editions, but in the 2020s, the brand has seen a slew of regular-production, and short-lived models – like the SPB143, 239, and 149, which stand as the most faithful renderings of the 62MAS, characterized by the brand as the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. Although this model family came with different dial variants at its 40.5mm case size, today, we’re going to showcase the discontinued SPB149 before looking at the current production SPB143 and other modern day options which continue the 62MAS legacy. We will go through the standard points of its case, wear, dial, and movement, and then share concluding remarks about its overall legacy in 2025.  Seiko SPB149 Context In Spring of 2020, Seiko dropped a quartet of watches - the SPB143, SPB145, SPB1...

Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE Fratello
Nov 3, 2025

Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE

During the past few years, we’ve covered many of Brellum’s new model introductions. The small brand produces tiny runs of its watches. While that may frustrate some, the company’s owner, Sébastien Muller, is known for communicating directly with customers. Plus, Brellum always brings a steady supply of releases each year. Today’s Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer […] Visit Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE to read the full article.

Introducing: The Maen × IFL Watches Manhattan After Dark Limited Edition Fratello
Maen Nov 3, 2025

Introducing: The Maen × IFL Watches Manhattan After Dark Limited Edition

IFL Watches and Maen are back at it again! After the success of last year’s Graffiti collaboration, it seems that fans were clamoring for a follow-up. While the first watch focused on the bright, vibrant colors of street art during the day, the new Manhattan After Dark envisions the city when the shadows come out […] Visit Introducing: The Maen × IFL Watches Manhattan After Dark Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor In Steel And Rose Gold With A Stone Blue Dial Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Nov 1, 2025

Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor In Steel And Rose Gold With A Stone Blue Dial

Launched in 2021, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor set the tone for Parmigiani Fleurier’s renewed design language. Its combination of a thin case, detailed finishing, and a guilloché dial established the clean aesthetic that now defines the brand. Today, we get a new version in steel and gold with a blue dial. This new version of […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor In Steel And Rose Gold With A Stone Blue Dial to read the full article.

Introducing – Launching on Kickstarter, the new Northern Watches NW1 Bronze Age & NW2 Northerner Monochrome
Oct 31, 2025

Introducing – Launching on Kickstarter, the new Northern Watches NW1 Bronze Age & NW2 Northerner

Northern Watches, launched by the Norwegian-born and Swiss-based watchmaker Stian Lofstad, arrives with a clear message: show the whole day at a glance, keep the design clean, and build it in Switzerland with proven movement. The debut range splits into two references, the bronze-cased NW1 Bronze Age and the steel NW2 Northerner, but the concept […]

Aubert Ramel Debuts with the Ouréa SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Oct 31, 2025

Aubert Ramel Debuts with the Ouréa

While Aubert and Ramel is a new brand, and the Ouréa is a new watch, Thomas Aubert and Alexis Ramel-Sartori aren’t new to independent watchmaking, both having worked for a prominent name in the space. That experience is evident in a strong – and decidedly on-trend – debut that stands out even in a crowded market. Initial Thoughts It seems there are many finely decorated time-only watches on the market today; the two contributed to some of the better ones in their earlier careers. Now the pair strike out under their own name, and unsurprisingly, their first watch is quite good. Though the duo seem to know that already, as they have priced it close to, just a little below, leading independents. The Ouréa’s “scraped” dial brings to mind the wildly successful Chronomètre Artisans from Simon Brette. That probably isn’t coincidental, as the two both worked for Simon Brette. However, I perceive an even stronger, and more general, influence of Greubel Forsey in the Ouréa. It also calls back to Thomas Aubert’s Séléné, winner of last year’s F.P. Journe young talent competition. The scintillating teal accents, applied by atomic layer deposition, are a nice touch to set the watch apart, and the hands are incredibly well made. Interestingly, the filling in the hands is white lacquer rather than luminous material. That seems like a missed opportunity as the appearance would be nearly identical if it were lumed. It is also a shame that Mr Aubert’s recoiling sho...

Fratello Talks: The Tales Of Former Watch Retailers Fratello
Oct 30, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Tales Of Former Watch Retailers

Most of us have some level of experience with watch retailers and ADs from a customer perspective. However, few watch enthusiasts can claim to have worked behind the counter, let alone owned a watch shop. Today, Nacho and Thomas are joined by Gerard, a long-time Fratello team member and former owner of Horloge Platform Nederland, […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Tales Of Former Watch Retailers to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Oct 29, 2025

Hands-On With The Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Edition

The Seiko Speedtimer traces its roots back to the 1960s, offering plenty of sports timing and racing pedigree. Today, I got a chance to go hands-on with the line’s latest incarnation, the solar-powered SSC959 limited edition. I say “limited,” but Seiko is producing a whopping 3,000 of these. Perhaps more important than its numerical limitation […] Visit Hands-On With The Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Edition to read the full article.

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Oct 28, 2025

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand

How much do you really know about Citizen Watches, the tough and stylish Promaster collection, the proprietary Eco-Drive technology, and other signature innovations of the Japanese brand, like the exclusive Super Titanium and the recent series of automatic calibers in the luxurious Series 8 models? In this article, we explore the history of Citizen Watch Company from its founding to the modern day and spotlight a dozen notable watches in today’s Citizen collection that have caught the attention of the Teddy Baldassarre team. By the end, you should be much closer to answering the question of whether Citizen watches are good-quality and whether they're for you.  Citizen History and Early Milestones With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene. One would be mistaken, however. The company today known as Citizen traces its roots all the way back to 1918, when it was founded as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute by Kamakechi Yamazaki. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan. Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodo...

Breguet Reimagines a Classic with the Classique 7235 SJX Watches
Breguet Reimagines Oct 23, 2025

Breguet Reimagines a Classic with the Classique 7235

One of the earliest wristwatches created by the modern-day Breguet company was the 3130, way back in 1983. Now for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has continued the lineage with the Classique 7235. Inspired by the historic No. 5 pocket watch, just like the earlier 3130, the 7235 reimagines a Breguet classic with the brand’s new design language that debuted with the first anniversary wristwatch earlier this year. Limited to 250 pieces, the 7235 is powered by a derivative of the same movement found in the 3130, but with one bestowed with several generations worth of technical and decorative upgrades. The calibre is also hand engraved with a 19th century streetscape of Paris that includes Abraham-Louis Breguet’s work on Quai de l’Horloge. The cal. 502.3.DRL in the 7235 Initial thoughts The 7235 is instantly familiar. A staple of Breguet’s catalogue over the years, the asymmetric dial with a power reserve, moon phase, and small seconds is quintessential Breguet in style. But the 7235 is not quite Breguet as it is now known, as while it retains the movement and dial design, it employs the new aesthetic of Breguet’s 250th anniversary line-up. While most will be accustomed to the “Breguet style” of coin-edged case with straight soldered lugs and silvered guilloche dial, the 7235 moves away from that to good effect – yet the 7235 is immediately recognisable as a Breguet. The new design marries the new with the old: the patterned case band is retained, but instead of...

Fratello Talks: What Makes A Watch Elegant? Fratello
Longines famously says “Elegance Oct 23, 2025

Fratello Talks: What Makes A Watch Elegant?

Longines famously says, “Elegance is an attitude.” But let’s be honest; there’s probably more to it than that. On today’s episode of Fratello Talks, we’re asking the big question: what makes a watch truly elegant? Is it the proportions, the case material, or the strap? Maybe it’s how the watch sits on your wrist, or […] Visit Fratello Talks: What Makes A Watch Elegant? to read the full article.

Friends in Dry Places: MB&F; Marks 75 Years of Seddiqi SJX Watches
Casio n MB&F; has developed Oct 22, 2025

Friends in Dry Places: MB&F; Marks 75 Years of Seddiqi

MB&F; has generated a lot of attention this year with a number of new releases celebrating the brand’s own 20th anniversary. Today MB&F; celebrates the 75th anniversary of one of its early champions and long-time retail partners, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, one of the most influential retailers in the Middle East, best known for organising Dubai Watch Week. To mark the occasion, MB&F; has developed two new limited edition models of its groundbreaking perpetual calendar, the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, on a sporty rubber strap, and the Legacy Machine Perpetual Baguette Diamonds, which is the first LM Perpetual to feature a gem-set bezel. Both models wear the typical Legacy Machine (LM) look and feature a vibrant blue colour used once before for another Seddiqi collaboration. Each watch is extremely limited; the titanium EVO will be a limited edition of just seven pieces, while only five pieces will be made of the steel version with its baguette-set bezel. Initial thoughts It’s a big year for milestone anniversaries, which is a good thing for watch collectors who are unusually spoiled for choice. That’s especially true for clients of Seddiqi, who can choose between two appealing new variants of one of the most intellectually compelling perpetual calendars on the market. They say it’s good to have friends in high places, but evidently it’s also good to have friends in dry places. Speaking about MB&F;’s long-term relationship with Seddiqi, founder Maximilian Busser noted,...

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 Fratello
Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 Oct 22, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460

By now, we’re accustomed to Panerai and its continuous release schedule during the year. What we didn’t expect was today’s watch, a model with a healthy water resistance rating and a new ceramic case. Oh, and did we mention that the new Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 comes in a 40mm size? Let’s investigate. Just a […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica PAM01460 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis Pro 1000m - A More Wearable Pro Diver Fratello
Oris Aquis Pro 1000m - Oct 22, 2025

Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis Pro 1000m - A More Wearable Pro Diver

Two years ago, Oris introduced the Aquis Pro 4000m. According to Gerard, it was “a pointless dive watch, hors catégorie, completely unnecessary for daily wear.” But boy, did he love it. Watches are kind of pointless anyway these days, so why not go all the way, right? But for all of you who thought a […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis Pro 1000m - A More Wearable Pro Diver to read the full article.

First Look – The New Mid-Size Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Oct 21, 2025

First Look – The New Mid-Size Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds

Born in 1931 to withstand the rigours of polo and defined by its unmistakable Art Deco geometry, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has evolved into one of the most enduring designs in watchmaking. Its swivelling steel case, conceived to protect the crystal from stray mallets, remains as ingenious today as it was nearly a century ago. Over […]

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Fears 02Series Mim0sa Fratello
Studio Underd0g Oct 20, 2025

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Fears 02Series Mim0sa

There are few self-inflicted experiences in life worse than a hangover. What often starts as a fun night out turns into a rough next morning. The “hair of the dog” is a well-known “cure” with drinks such as the Bloody Mary and Mimosa serving as popular tonics. It’s the latter beverage that inspires today’s Studio […] Visit Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Fears 02Series Mim0sa to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Orange Fratello
Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Oct 19, 2025

Hands-On With The Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Orange

Over the past few months, I’ve had the opportunity to go hands-on with several new Norqain watches. It’s been a positive experience and somewhat surprising. Generally, I’m not a fan of open-worked dials, but on the wrist, the brand’s pieces shine. Comfortable straps and wrist-conforming case designs help too. Today, I’m taking my first spin […] Visit Hands-On With The Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm Orange to read the full article.

Introducing: New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica And Master Grande Tradition Models Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Oct 16, 2025

Introducing: New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica And Master Grande Tradition Models

When Jaeger-LeCoultre applies the Hybris Artistica and Grande Tradition labels, expectations rise. These watches are complicated, sure, but they are also theatrical displays of mechanical skill and decorative artistry. Today, the brand introduces two new creations under these banners, the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 and the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948. Each interprets the […] Visit Introducing: New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica And Master Grande Tradition Models to read the full article.

Introducing: The Updated Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection Fratello
Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection Oct 15, 2025

Introducing: The Updated Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection

Today, we’ll look at tasteful updates by Blancpain to its Villeret collection. Aside from the well-known Fifty Fathoms, these are the watches most people think of when considering the brand. After all, this collection was an integral part of Blancpain’s relaunch in the ’80s. For today, three models have been reinterpreted with golden-hour hues. Let’s […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection to read the full article.

Introducing: The New Seiko “Rotocall” Series Fratello
Seiko Rotocall” Series Well well Oct 15, 2025

Introducing: The New Seiko “Rotocall” Series

Well, well, well, Seiko is on a nice roll! Last week, we covered the new limited-edition Prospex GMT Seashadow, and it garnered the type of enthusiasm we used to see with all Seiko releases. Additionally, the limited edition of watches has already sold out. Today, it seems that we have another mega hit in the […] Visit Introducing: The New Seiko “Rotocall” Series to read the full article.

Islander Watches Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 14, 2025

Islander Watches Review

The independent and microbrands of the watch world are often where the most interesting things are happening, but the landscape is only getting wider and the competition stronger – which is ultimately a good thing. But, with competition only growing fiercer, there are other brands that get knocked out of the spotlight, overshadowed by the current hyped brand/watch/designs of the time. Such is the case with Islander watches. But today, we’re going to help fix that and give a little extra consideration and attention to what I would call an underdog of the independent world. Down below, I’ll be walking you through what Islander Watches are all about, focusing on a case study of a couple of models, and sharing my final conclusions about how this brand fits into the wild world of watches.  Some Context Islander Watches hold an interesting position within the industry, as they are actually the house brand of Long Island Watch, and, at its core, Islander is an entirely enthusiast-driven brand. I’m sure there are plenty of those already familiar with Long Island Watch from YouTube or the digital sphere, but for those uninitiated, Long Island Watch is a New York-based watch brand founded in 2003 by Marc Frankel, a mechanical engineer who turned his passion for collecting watches into an online retailer back in 2003. Focussing on offering a really dynamic curation of affordable, hardworking, and interesting watches from nearly all genres (and often from obscure brands), Mar...

Tritium Watches: How They Work, And How They're Still Being Made Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 10, 2025

Tritium Watches: How They Work, And How They're Still Being Made

The need to read the time in the dark has been a challenge for the makers of timepieces for hundreds of years. The first solution was not a visual but an audible one: watches that could chime the current hour and minute on demand. These types of watches, aka minute repeaters and sonneries, are quite rare and expensive today and regarded as luxuries rather than the utilitarian inventions they initially were. In the 1900s, a more practical option presented itself: treating a watch’s dial with luminous paint that made its time display visible in darkness. And while this approach proved to be much more cost-effective and practical, it also brought a new set of challenges, as the earliest substances used on the dials were discovered to be unsafe, for the people who made the watches and, to a lesser extent, those who wore them. Let There Be Light The first material applied to watch dials for nighttime luminescence was radium paint, which, thanks to radium’s half-life of 1,600 years, offered a long-lasting glow during that period before dimming - the catch being that, as its name implies, radium (specifically Radium-226, which was used as the base of the “Radiomir” substance registered by Guido Panerai ) is radioactive. In the 1920s, the mostly female factory workers who painted the watch dials with radium compounds started falling ill and dying at alarming rates, leading to lawsuits against the companies that produced the material and eventually, safer working conditio...