Deployant
Review: Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) #88
We take a look at the AdC #88, a time-only watch first introduced in 2018 by Barcelona-based independent watchmaker Atelier de Chronométrie.
Results for Authorized Dealer (AD) System
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Deployant
Revolution
Mid-Century Charm: Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo
Longines adds two 1940s-inspired models to its Heritage collection that tug at heartstrings with their mid-century charm.
SJX Watches
Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Nocturne
German independent watchmaker had a hit when it debuted the Kudoke 2 last year. Combining hand-engraved decor with an affordable price tag, the watch was well received by enthusiasts while also enjoying critical acclaim, winning the Petite Aiguille – the category for watches under 10,000 Swiss francs – at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The Kudoke 2 Nocturne is a limited edition variant of the standard model in a run of only 20 pieces, a nod to the 20th year of this century. While the standard version features a silver-and-gold palette, the Nocturne is dressed in shades of grey, both on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts The Kudoke 2 was one of last year’s more compelling watches for me. Not only is it priced well, but the watch has a refined yet German aesthetic that’s pleasing. The watch is clean, with no superfluous elements to distract from its charming simplicity, yet equipped with several attractive classical details. And the Nocturne has a slightly more modern look than the original, despite having the same design. The movement, developed with the help of Habring2, has a unique style and excellent finish, especially considering the price of €8,665, or a little under US$10,000, which is the same price as standard version. With artful hand engraving and an original movement, the watch screams value proposition. A new face Having an identical design as the standard model, the Nocturne retains the clean, symmetrical look of the...
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Unique Ressence Type 1 Slim to be Sold for Charity
As the COVID-19 pandemic was reaching its peak, Ressence announced Time to Draw, a design competition inviting contestants to reinterpret of its Type 1 Slim, with the winning entry being sold to benefit COVID-19 research at KU Leuven, a university in the company’s native Belgium. Triumphing over 465 other entries, the winning design was created by Englishman Raymond Ramsden. Named after his two sons, the Type 1 Slim “Ayrton & Finlay” is a bright rendition of the Type 1 that is a striking departure from the brand’s typically monochromatic style. The finish watch alongside the winning drawing Clad in pastel colours, the watch clinched the prize because it looks vastly different from the standard offerings of Ressence. Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens stated “[we] wanted to create a genuine one-off, so we opted for entries that were far from our own artistic direction”. By extension, the watch is distinct in personality – the bright pastel colours are more cheerful and extroverted compared to the usual Ressence wristwatch, which has a no-frills, technical appearance. I love this design for its fun, fresh, and vibrant look. Apart from the facelift, the rest of the watch is everything that you know about the Type 1 Slim. The watch has 42 mm, tonneau-shaped titanium case that’s 11 mm tall. Because of its almost lug-less design and concave profile, it sits very compactly on the wrist. The orbital display is the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS), the brand...
SJX Watches
John McGonigle Debuts with the Oileán H-B1
Hailing from Ireland’s most famous watchmaking family, John McGonigle is best known for being one half of the two brothers behind McGonigle Watches (and another brother is the chief instructor at the world-class watch school in Cambodia). Having decided to strike out on his own last year – an amicable parting resulting from logistical challenges of working with his brother who is based in Switzerland – Mr McGonigle has just launched his own brand, Oileán, Gaelic for “island”, a nod to his home of Ireland. Pronounced “ill-awn”, the brand is making its debut with the Oileán H-B1, a triple-calendar chronograph powered by a new-old-stock Valjoux 88 movement. John McGonigle Initial thoughts Well regarded by collectors and peers, Mr McGonigle’s first watch under his new brand has a vintage movement inside a titanium case. It’s a manageable 40 mm in diameter, but slightly thick at 14.2 mm high, an inevitable consequence of the Valjoux 88. While the Valjoux 88 is not novel – it was widely used in the past – the calibre has been reworked a high standard. That includes several bridges and steel parts made from scratch, as well as hand finishing of all components. Because it is a triple-calendar chronograph “I’ve tried to apply the same rigour to this watch as I used to for the high complications I worked on in the past,” says Mr McGonigle. Going by Mr McGonigle’s past work it is no doubt done very well. The look is modern – the dial is smoked sa...
SJX Watches
You’re Invited: Webinar – Highlights from Hong Kong Watch Auction: X
Starting slightly later than usual, the auction season in Hong Kong starts in the second week of July, with Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X happening on July 10 at the JW Marriott. The situation makes attending the sale in person difficult for most of us, so you’re invite to join myself and Thomas Perazzi, Phillips’ head of watches in Asia, for a webinar on July 6. We will discuss the highlights of the 269-lot sale, which is led by a Patek Philippe ref. 2499/100 and a possibly-unique ref. 3448 in white gold. Schedule The webinar will take place on July 6, 2020 at 04:00 pm GMT+8 (Singapore, Hong Kong, Beijing). And for other time zones: 06:00 pm GMT+10 (Sydney) 10:00 am GMT+2 (Berlin, Frankfurt, Milan, Geneva, Zurich) 09:00 am GMT+1 (London) 04:00 am GMT-4 (New York, Boston) 01:00 am GMT-7 (Vancouver) Registration is required to attend, and you can register right here.
Quill & Pad
How To Make A Milanese Bracelet (Video)
Our friends at The Watches TV recently visited Laurent Jolliet, the last “chain maker” in business in Switzerland according to Marc-André Deschoux. As Jolliet crafts his bracelets and chains fully by hand, Deschoux and crew were able to find out in detail how Milanese bracelets are made, an art form no longer formally taught, and share the secrets with us here.
![Recommended Reading: Audemars Piguet's Head Of Complications Michael Friedman Talks [Re]Master 01 With Barron's](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1588096737161-ie8kgm5btg-ca0f3d21c39ca1e69ef1c9a81450432f/03-04-20200309-1_01.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=1200&h=630&fit=crop)
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Audemars Piguet's Head Of Complications Michael Friedman Talks [Re]Master 01 With Barron's
An inside look at how this watch came to be.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #181: Who Wore It Better?
Mike and Kaz compare some of the watch world’s favorite design and style tropes in a head-to-head match between two watches at a time. Also, Patreon is growing! Thanks to everyone that has hopped on for those special tiers.
Quill & Pad
Miki Eleta Natuhrzeit: Telling The Time Poetically With Nature. And There’s Music Too
There are clocks that deserve to be talked about, written about, bought, and enjoyed. And this goes double for any and all of the unique timepieces by independent horologist Miki Eleta. Elizabeth Doerr had the pleasure of seeing Eleta’s latest masterpiece, Natuhrzeit, at Baselworld 2019 and she has not been able to get it out of her mind since. Enjoy the show!
SJX Watches
State of the Industry: The Luxury-Watch Market in China After the Pandemic
By far the most important markets for luxury watches, China and Hong Kong together accounted for over 21% of Swiss watch exports in 2019 according to trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Add to that Chinese travellers who buy watches overseas, and the fact is the luxury-watch business is dependent on Chinese demand. So the crucial question for the watch industry’s future – what’s happening in the Chinese watch market post-pandemic? On May 10, one of the trending topics on microblogging platform Sina Weibo was the US$30 billion plunge in the net worth of LVMH chief Bernard Arnault, mirroring the sharp drop in LVMH shares. But barely a week before – exactly a month after the end of Wuhan lockdown – there were nearly 100 customers queuing outside the Louis Vuitton boutique in Shanghai’s Plaza 66, all eager to shop before the brand’s price hike. The line outside Louis Vuitton reflected the rebounding demand for luxury goods in China as it emerged from a lockdown. “Macro Data Indicates a Surge in Consumption” – read the headline in the business-focused Workers’ Daily newspaper on May 16. The sentiment is backed up by the latest data from the National Bureau of Statistics of China published in mid June. Though the statistics indicate retail sales of consumer goods declined 13.5% on a nominal basis from January to May, totalling RMB1,387.3 billion for the year to date, the monthly figures indicate a recovery is underway. The monthly numbers s...
Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1: Making A Watch The Traditional Way (Video)
Our friends at The Watches TV have published a beautiful three-part video series on manufacturing a watch fully by hand as demonstrated by Greubel Forsey’s recent Hand Made 1. In this series, Marc-André Deschoux and his team get deep into the manufacture and talk to all of the artisans involved, beginning with founders Stephen Forsey and Robert Greubel.
Deployant
Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum
Montblanc releases the new Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum available in stainless steel and rose gold. Orbis Terrarum comes from Latin, meaning “globe”, “earth”, and “world” giving the inspiration for the worldtime complication. The worldtime function is simple to set, read and use indicating all 24 time zones at a glance and shows whether the cities are in the daytime or nighttime.
Quill & Pad
Shrouded In Mystery And Fire: Opals In Jaquet Droz And Piaget Timepieces – Reprise
Alexander Doerr had never really paid much attention to opals before, but upon closer inspection he realized this gemstone is extraordinary – shrouded in mystery and well worth learning more about. Looking at an opal is like looking at fireworks or even looking into a galaxy. And, as he learned, two Swiss watch brands specialize in using the fiery gemstone in watches: Jaquet Droz and Piaget.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 5 reasons to watch the last Basel Video, inc. blowing the lid off the Breitling Party
It’s Friday, and usually that means a message from me regarding all the great things that happened during the week. But today, in addition to that, which is captured in the top four stories to check out below, I want to look forward. To tomorrow. Because at midday Australian time, and 7pm LA and 10pm … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 5 reasons to watch the last Basel Video, inc. blowing the lid off the Breitling Party appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition
To mark the recent opening of its first store in continental Europe – and its biggest boutique in the world – Grand Seiko has unveiled the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition, either in platinum (SBGK011) or rose gold (SBGK013). With a dial motif inspired by the streets of Paris, the limited edition is powered by the 9S63 movement. Located at the corner of the posh Place Vendôme famous for being home to jewellers and the Hôtel Ritz, the new Grand Seiko boutique is the brand’s largest store ever, with a floor area of over 190 square metres (or some 2000 square feet) spread over two floors. Distinctly Japanese in style and materials – the floors are tatami and the screens, bamboo – the is the work of Kengo Kuma, one of Japan’s leading contemporary architects. The Grand Seiko Boutique Paris Vendôme Grand Seiko’s location on the square with the entrance to the store at the lower right corner of the photo, adjacent to the white awning Initial thoughts If the limited editions look familiar, it’s for good reason – they are based on the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection introduced last year, featuring the same case, movement, and dial layout. The refined dimensions of the Elegance Collection immediately made it one of my favourites of the Grand Seiko collection. Although Grand Seiko watches are well designed and equipped with great movements, the cases tend to wear large and thick, something the Elegance Collection managed to avoid. The 9S63 as seen in a ...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Serica watches, the revival of the affordable good watch
Serica was born only late last year when they were announced to the world as a brand that would offer a well-designed and robust timepiece at a fair price. They delivered in spades with their first watch, the Serica W.W.W. (standing for Wrist. Watch. Waterproof), inspired by the watches of the Second World War, where … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Serica watches, the revival of the affordable good watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, The World’s Thinnest Watch: Shaving Microns To Make Millionths
Talking about exceptionally thin mechanics leads us to world-record-holding thin watches, which inevitably leads to Piaget. These days constantly in battle with Bulgari for thinness world records, Piaget has recently released the production version of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which now holds the record for thinness at just 2 mm. How is this even possible?
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm
Just a few short weeks ago, Time+Tide had the distinct pleasure of globally unveiling the last of the 50th anniversary special edition Zenith El Primeros. Called the Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, this gorgeous watch was the result of a surprise discovery that the team at Zenith had found in a dusty old cupboard in their … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rebirth Of Nivada Grenchen With New Versions Of The Chronomaster And Antarctic
Cult favorite watches at back-to-basics prices.
SJX Watches
Editorial: The Rise of the Indian Watch Collector
Years ago, while attending a wedding in the southern Indian state of Kerala, I noticed most men in attendance were uniformly dressed – crisp, white linen shirt and matching mundu. Some milled about, some laughed over the most recent ministerial gaffe making the rounds, and others waited impatiently for the evening to end. For an outsider, the plainness of their attire seemed at odds with the occasion they were attending, except for the occasional glint of gold on their wrists, which caught my eyes more often than I’d anticipated. The heavy lustre of their Rolex watches, as most were, stood out because of the simplicity of everything else. Observing closely one could notice the subtle nods of affirmation exchanged between the men as they glanced at each other’s timepieces. For a culture obsessed with jewellery – India is the world’s second-largest consumer of the precious metal according to the World Gold Council – the country has taken predictably well to fine watches. Timepieces in precious metals form a substantial proportion of the gifts given to grooms – a practice that is, in a small but undeniable way, bringing the appeal of horology to a larger, otherwise untapped audience. A market in its infancy But the sales of luxury watches in India are far lower in proportion to its population as compared to say, China. According to trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), Switzerland exported 1.99 billion Swiss francs of watches to China in ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer
Jaeger-LeCoultre must be strong proponents of the adage “you can never have too much of a good thing”. Why? Well, it’s not even been two months since the Le Sentier outfit unveiled their excellent 2020 novelties at this year’s digital Watches & Wonders, and already they’re dropping two new models that are sure to have … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Harry Winston Introduces Project Z14 Retrograde Seconds
Project Z is Harry Winston’s distinct approach to the luxury-sports. Named after Zalium, a zirconium-aluminium alloy that’s strong, light and resistant to corrosion, Project Z usually combines the exotic alloy with an open-worked dial. The new Project Z14 sticks to the established formula, but in a first for the line, features a retrograde seconds. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Project Z14 would not be remiss among the previous Project Z watches, looking futuristic and avant-garde just like its siblings. Notably, it shares the same sculpted, brushed case and a multi-layered dial accented with the signature Harry Winston shade of blue. The oversized crown guard with triple fluting is inspired by the arch above the doorway to Harry Winston’s flagship store on New York’s 5th Avenue The enhanced sense of depth and structure is what sets the Project Z14 apart from its predecessors. A small tweak that makes for this significant difference is the chamfered bezel, replacing the flat and smooth found on the past offerings. Providing more angles and facets to a case that is already architectural in style, the chamfered bezel blends in perfectly with the various bevels on the case and lugs. With such a modern design, it is no surprise that the case is large – 42.2 mm in diameter and 10.7 mm tall – and suited to contemporary tastes. The openwork dial The visual depth is compounded by the attractive, open-worked dial that boasts a multitude of details. The grid-motif...
Time+Tide
How long have YOU got left to live? The ‘death watch’ tells you and starts the countdown. Weirdly, that’s a positive thing…
Why are vampires invariably such jaded fellows? I reckon immortality has something to do with it. Sure, the wild hunger to feast on human blood must prove an inconvenient business at the best of times. And, yes, coffins make for uncomfortable beds. But I suspect the world-weary demeanour of the undead stems mainly from their … ContinuedThe post How long have YOU got left to live? The ‘death watch’ tells you and starts the countdown. Weirdly, that’s a positive thing… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zelos Introduces the Mirage Tourbillon in Pattern-Welded Alloys
A Singapore-based “micro brand”, Zelos Watches has found success with affordable sports watches, mostly priced at about US$1,000 or less, but often incorporating unusual materials such as carbon fibre or meteorite. But in a significant departure from its usual fare, Zelos has just unveiled the Mirage, a flying tourbillon powered by a calibre made by a noted Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret. With the case options including Timascus and mokume-gane, which are pattern-welded titanium and bronze respectively, the Mirage certainly sticks to the brand’s design ethos of exotic materials. Initial thoughts While it’s not surprising that the Mirage is substantially more expensive than Zelos’ past models, it is still good value for a watch featuring both a respectable tourbillon movement and an exotic-metal case. The case is sleek and modern, machined to create sharp, wide facets that give it an aggressive stance and complement the contemporary look of the movement. Of the three case materials on offer, the Timascus versions are the most intriguing. Typically found in high-end custom knives, Timascus is being used in a watch for the first time according to Zelos. Flying tourbillon In terms of complications, the Mirage is a radical departure from the brand’s previous offerings. Powered by a skeletonised flying tourbillon movement from La Joux-Perret, the Mirage enters the realm of technical horology. The movement is hand-wound, with its bridges and base plate coate...
WatchAdvice
DOXA SUB 200 Review
Introduction When it comes to iconic dive watches, few individual pieces, let alone brands at large, possess the pedigree and character akin to that of Doxa. Having adorned the wrists of Jacques Cousteau and fictional character Dirk Pitt, there is little left for the imagination in terms of what their watches are capable of enduring. If I’ve ever had a watch that I bought initially under, and due to, the influence of alcohol, immediately felt a sense of “what have I done”, and then fell in love with more than I could have ever conceived, that’d be the Caribbean Doxa Sub 200. It may not be the signature “fat” cushion case with the integrated no-decompression dive time calculator, nor does it wear the signature orange dial that made Doxa stand out from the rest back in 1967, but one thing it certainly is not, is boring. Initially at face value, it’s your standard issue dive watch with your usual checks in the right boxes. But as any watch geek would know, we never “fall” for a watch as a result of its specs sheet, but rather the way you feel when it’s on your wrist, we obsess over the most minute details, the little, split second glances that make you smile. The SUB 200 does just that, while not breaking the bank and delivers value at the top of its class. The SUB 200 is what I like to call the gateway drug to the world of what Doxa has to offer. It delivers the rugged, utilitarian construction to take on the seas, or in my case, crashing into the ground ...
Time+Tide
The 5 Bremont models we chose for our shop, and why …
Bremont may have only been around since 2002, but since its inception, founders and brothers Nick and Giles English have made sure that the hard-charging British watchmaker has been at the forefront of not only innovation but also military collaboration and integration. In fact, you can find a Bremont strapped to the wrist of a … ContinuedThe post The 5 Bremont models we chose for our shop, and why … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: hands-on with the Gruebel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Blue
We take an in-depth look at the Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Blue - a magnificent grail watch, with many photographs and insights.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft
There is a lot to be said for a simple chronograph. Something clear, easy to read and a pleasure to look at. You don’t always want to strap a large, bulky watch to your wrist. One with more information on the dial than you will ever use, and with at least half the displays doing … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This is the world’s most inspiring watch. It costs $150 and belongs to “the scariest Navy SEAL imaginable”
There’s a watch out there that could genuinely change your life. It could make you happier, healthier and more successful. It could help you regain a sense of control in these messed-up times and add some much-needed pep to your step. The best part? You can pick one up here (no longer available) for the … ContinuedThe post This is the world’s most inspiring watch. It costs $150 and belongs to “the scariest Navy SEAL imaginable” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.