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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

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Ode to a Legend with the Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Worn & Wound
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Hublot Oct 19, 2026

Ode to a Legend with the Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo

Hublot is a brand that has long endured scrutiny for its bold and out-of-the-box approach to watchmaking, and frankly, I’ve never quite understood why the industry and the collector sphere has relentlessly put the brand under fire. In many other instances, brands have been revered for being a disrupter, so why not Hublot? The inaugural design that launched the brand back in 1980 was the first to combine a precious metal case with a rubber strap, laying the foundation for what the brand now calls the “Art of Fusion.” However, you have to understand that at the time, this was both risky and revelatory – rubber straps weren’t nearly as prevalent as they are today, and pairing one with a precious metal as opposed to stainless steel was unheard of. Now, we see rubber straps in most brands’ repertoires often combined with a precious metal. So, in fact, Hublot set the standard for something that was once audacious but now commonplace and considered totally “normal” (whatever normal really means) – maybe we should give Hublot a little more credit and not be so quick to judge. Today, we are fully celebrating that model that started it all – at the time, called the Classic Original and now known as the Classic Fusion with the aptly named Tributo. Beyond the innovative combination of materials, the original composition established some specific design codes, including the porthole shaped case with 12 prominent screws securing the bezel framing a plain and totally ...

Introducing - The Semi-Openworked Version Watches V0201-TH, now on Kickstarter Monochrome
Oct 19, 2026

Introducing - The Semi-Openworked Version Watches V0201-TH, now on Kickstarter

Version Watches is a young independent brand founded in 2024 founded by a feminine duo, Cybèle Vigneron and Carla Lafranchini. Version creates Swiss-made watches that are classic with a twist, exploring the idea of transparency and suggestion through its signature semi-openworked dials. The brand now comes with its second collection following the V01-LLC that reached […]

The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Pro Oct 19, 2026

The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary

A few months ago, we asked our team members to write about the best watch they’ve ever owned. Thomas wrote a love story about his Rolex Explorer II 16570, Jorg was (and still is) talking about the Tudor Black Bay Pro, and Lex wrote that his JLC Geophysic Universal Time beats all his other watches. […] Visit The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic Fratello
Louis Vuitton Monterey Oct 19, 2026

Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic

Names of Swiss watch brands and models can be tricky to pronounce, especially the French ones. Does the name Jay-Jay Le Coot ring a bell? I will let you figure it out and bring up another name. It’s now an official name, but it stems from the trouble some had in pronouncing the original. In […] Visit Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic to read the full article.

Insight: The Triumph of the Maltese Cross SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s logo adopted Oct 19, 2026

Insight: The Triumph of the Maltese Cross

The Maltese cross is a ubiquitous device found inside all sorts of mechanical movements. Originally devised to limit a mainspring’s working range, it also makes an appearance in perpetual calendars and unconventional jumping hours complications. The elegant mechanism is both simple and clever, warranting a closer look. From cross to mechanics The Maltese cross mechanism gets its name from the heraldic symbol adopted by the Order of St. John, and remains associated with the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. While the original cross has four arms, the Maltese cross as a horological component commonly features five arms or more. Collectors also recognise the cross as Vacheron Constantin’s logo, adopted in 1880 in tribute to the horological component. Today, Vacheron Constantin also incorporates the cross into its tourbillon cage and even some decorative screw heads. Screw for the column wheel fashioned with a Maltese cross head inside the Vacheron Constantin caliber 3200. The component itself is a masterfully simple example of geometry and mechanics. The system allows a true 1-to-any transmission ratio, since the driving component only has one tooth which makes the cross-shaped wheel advance one single step every revolution. For comparison, a 1:5 transmission ratio can be accomplished by a pinion with ten leaves paired to a wheel with 50 teeth, but the motion transmitted would then be continuous. A Maltese cross still makes one full revolution after the driver turns five...

The ABCs of Time - The History of Chinese Watchmaking, From Reverse Engineering to a Growing Indie Scene Monochrome
Seiko s Timekeeper Oct 17, 2026

The ABCs of Time - The History of Chinese Watchmaking, From Reverse Engineering to a Growing Indie Scene

China was very late to watchmaking, with its first wristwatch debuting in 1955, while Japan had a domestic pocket watch in 1895 and its first wristwatch in 1913 (respectively Seiko’s Timekeeper and Seiko’s Laurel). Both Swiss and British watchmaking go back to the 16th century, for context. That said, China now produces more watches than all […]

Introducing The Trilobe Château Trente-Deux - Let’s Drink To That Fratello
Trilobe Oct 17, 2026

Introducing The Trilobe Château Trente-Deux - Let’s Drink To That

For many of us, at least native English speakers, our brains seem “wired” to read from left to right, top to bottom. Now, scientifically speaking, doing this is learned behavior, but our parents drill it into us from the first time we pick up a picture book. Indeed, we do crave linear progression. And as […] Visit Introducing The Trilobe Château Trente-Deux — Let’s Drink To That to read the full article.

The Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Brings Classic Elegance With A Twist Fratello
Kiwame Tokyo Oct 17, 2026

The Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Brings Classic Elegance With A Twist

Kiwame Tokyo continues to deliver watches that punch above their price. The Asakusa, Tokyo-based brand appreciates watches with classic proportions and details, including genuine lacquer. Unsurprisingly, collectors have responded, leading to near-instantaneous sellouts. In July, we previewed the new Kubo series that led to the fervor.  Today, we finally have our hands on one of […] Visit The Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Brings Classic Elegance With A Twist to read the full article.

Introducing - The Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission Brings the Earth and Mars to the Wrist Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission Brings Oct 16, 2026

Introducing - The Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission Brings the Earth and Mars to the Wrist

Earth, the Moon, Mars, and a spacecraft… Sounds like Christopher Nolan is cooking up another mind-bending film, but it is actually the new Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission. Following the BR-03 Astro from 2025, this new edition has a dial that takes the concept of space-time rather literally. The watch has no conventional hands. […]

Discovering AndoAndoAndo at WARO: The Vinyl Record & LUCKYSHROOM Watches WatchRider
Oct 16, 2026

Discovering AndoAndoAndo at WARO: The Vinyl Record & LUCKYSHROOM Watches

Last weekend, I found myself walking through the halls of the WARO (Watching Romania) in Bucharest. Like most horology gatherings, the room was filled with traditional dials, polished steel cases, and familiar silhouettes. But amid the sea of classical designs, one booth immediately grabbed my attention: AndoAndoAndo. If you haven’t come across them yet, AndoAndoAndo is a microbrand that designs timepieces with an unmistakably playful, creative mindset. They don’t try to compete with heritage brands on traditional finishings; instead, they make watches that simply bring character and personality to the wrist. Falling for the Vinyl Design The standouts of their lineup are their Vinyl Record watches. Inspired by vintage turntables, the design is a quiet masterclass in translating music culture into horology. The dial recreates the grooves of a vinyl LP, complete with elements that subtly mirror the shape of a turntable tonearm. It feels clever without being gimmicky, a rare balance for concept-driven watches. The moment that sealed it for me was putting the black and gold version on my wrist, specifically, the Charlotte de Carle x Ando “Music is the Answer” Limited Edition. Created in collaboration with British DJ and presenter Charlotte de Carle, the contrast between the deep, grooved black dial, the 24k gold PVD case, and the frosty gold tonearm hand gives it an elevated retro feel. It catches the light in a way that feels organic rather than flashy. As soon as I ...

Hands-On With The Elegant IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 Le Petit Prince! WatchAdvice
IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Oct 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Elegant IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 Le Petit Prince!

The poetic world of Le Petit Prince meets the understated elegance of IWC’s compact Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34! What We Love: Beautiful integration of the Le Petit Prince for the first time in a Portofino model. Poetic day-and-night display Slim, elegant, and exceptionally comfortable What We Don’t: 34mm sizing limits its broader appeal No view of the movement Limited choice of suitable alternative straps Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.8/10 Wearability: 8.7/10 Design: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.8/10 IWC Schaffhausen’s Portofino collection is one that can seem overlooked at times. With collections such as the Portugieser, Ingenieur and Pilot’s Watches taking centre stage more often, the Portofino can feel like a line that frequently flies under the radar. For me personally, however, it remains one of IWC’s best-kept secrets. View this post on Instagram A post shared by IWC Schaffhausen (@iwcwatches) Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2026 is the first-ever Portofino to feature IWC’s Le Petit Prince theme! The Portofino collection also has a distinctive design within IWC’s broader range, allowing it to stand entirely on its own. How this design originated is a story in itself, as the Portofino emerged during a period when the world of mechanical watchmaking was going through considerable turmoil. By the early 1980s, quartz watches were dominating the market, forcing IWC to explore different ideas that would make its mechanical timepieces appe...

The Biver AB is Time Only and All Quality SJX Watches
Oct 16, 2026

The Biver AB is Time Only and All Quality

Having found critical and commercial success with the Automatique, Biver is continuing with the time-only format, but (slightly) more accessibly. The Biver AB is a manual-wind, three-hand watch, but keeping to the high-end approach of the Automatique. The presentation is discreet but precious. While the dial and movement are solid gold, the case and bracelet are steel. The bracelet is notable for being the same as that found on the Automatique, and is arguably amongst the best in class. Initial thoughts I am a fan of the Biver Automatique and was a little sceptical of the idea of a more accessible time-only watch. The AB, however, surprised on the upside. Like the Automatique, it is executed extremely well. The dial, for example, is an extremely fancy interpretation of the “sector” dial, rendered in onyx and yellow gold. The bracelet adds to the appeal significantly as well. It’s essentially the same bracelet found on the Automatique, but in steel. The facetted links are impressively finished, and more importantly, sit comfortably on the wrist. Pulling off a bracelet that is both functional and finely done is an achievement in itself. That this is standard kit for the watch adds to the appeal. The movement is a little less elaborate than that in the Automatique, but remains tangibly high end; it even has a grande sonnerie-style winding click. All the details are attended to, with bonus decorative flourishes here and there. Though a three-hander, the movement is fairl...

Introducing - Meet the TYPE 10 DN, Ressence’s First Oil-Filled Watch with the Proprietary Movement Monochrome
Ressence s First Oil-Filled Watch Oct 16, 2026

Introducing - Meet the TYPE 10 DN, Ressence’s First Oil-Filled Watch with the Proprietary Movement

A few months ago, at Watches and Wonders, Ressence introduced a watch to be seen as a pivotal moment for the brand. It was potentially the most important launch for the independent watchmaker since its creation. Dubbed the TYPE 11, this watch remained very Ressence at first sight… Evolutionary more than radically novel. That was […]

The New Ressence Type 10 “Dark Night” Debuts The Brand’s Second Proprietary Movement Fratello
Ressence Type 10 “Dark Night” Oct 16, 2026

The New Ressence Type 10 “Dark Night” Debuts The Brand’s Second Proprietary Movement

Earlier this year, at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Ressence presented its first proprietary movement, the RW-01, inside the new Type 11. Today, the Belgian brand presents another proprietary movement inside yet another new reference. The new Ressence Type 10 features a polished, deep blue DLC-coated Grade 5 titanium case with the new RW-04 movement […] Visit The New Ressence Type 10 “Dark Night” Debuts The Brand’s Second Proprietary Movement to read the full article.

Introducing: Analog:Shift x Édition de la Tour 'Vintage Watches' Playing Cards (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Cartier s Oct 16, 2026

Introducing: Analog:Shift x Édition de la Tour 'Vintage Watches' Playing Cards (Live Pics)

When my dad was teaching me to play poker, he imparted one very clear piece of advice: Never play poker at a casino (if you've ever seen Rounders, you'll understand why). To this day, I love playing poker, and other games like slap, hearts, gin rummy, and euchre have also found a warm place in my heart, to the point that good-quality playing cards have become a necessity in my life. And there are plenty of great cards out there, but one thing many will find, once they start exploring the world of playing cards, is that novelty cards are almost universally terrible. Today, I'm happy to introduce a set that isn't, because James Lamdin and our friends over at Analog:Shift have teamed up with Éditions de la Tour to produce a new set of playing cards, and they are absolutely worth a look. Éditions de la Tour first came to my attention last year when they introduced their first deck of cards, a thematic deck with designs inspired by iconic steel sports watches like the Submariner or Royal Oak. Now, we have their follow-up, a deck whose designs draw inspiration from vintage watches of all sorts. But where last year's release focused on four special designs repeated on the face cards, this year's features 52 wholly unique designs, with each card showing an illustration of a different watch. The watches featured follow no set theme and include everything from Doxas and Tudors to Cartiers and Pateks, with the 52-watch collection having been curated by Analog:Shift founder James La...

Introducing - The new Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift Monochrome
Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Oct 16, 2026

Introducing - The new Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift

Building on the original Essence Ceramica introduced in March 2025 and the distinctive Dark Matter meteorite dial that followed, Formex is back at work with a bolder take on its sports watch. Using motorsport as an inspiration, the new Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift combines new finishes for the case, colorful accents and a powerful movement. […]

The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Returns More Than A Decade After Its Introduction Fratello
Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Returns Oct 16, 2026

The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Returns More Than A Decade After Its Introduction

Oris revives one of its most distinctive in-house movements with the return of the ProPilot Calibre 111. More than a decade has passed since the 2015 launch of the original Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111, powered by a manually wound movement boasting an impressive 10-day power reserve. That watch followed the release of the Oris’s […] Visit The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Returns More Than A Decade After Its Introduction to read the full article.

Introducing: The Redesigned Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Hodinkee
Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 What Oct 16, 2026

Introducing: The Redesigned Oris ProPilot Calibre 111

What We Know Oris is going through its catalog and doing some subtle and meaningful updates to the ProPilot lineup. On the heels of a ProPilot Date update last year, the higher-tier ProPilot Calibre 111 is getting similar tweaks that take a very solid watch and make it a bit more refined. In fact, if you compare it to the old, outgoing 44mm version, the refreshed look really does stand out despite the relative subtlety. The new stainless steel case is slimmed down and sharpened up, down from 44mm to 43mm and down from around 14mm (actually 13.85mm) to 13.2mm; there are improvements in sizing, which is impressive for a watch with a 10-day power reserve. The date window has been moved to the 6 o'clock position for better balance, and the new finishing for the black or pine green dial combines a main vertically brushed surface with a textured, pebbled graining in the subdials and minute track. The Calibre 111 movement is visible through the display caseback, while the watch maintains a 100m water resistance all the same. You can see that massive barrel required for the 240-hour power reserve and what looks to be a nice level of finishing for the price point. The angled fluting on the bezel carries over to the caseback ring as well, which adds a balanced touch. And while you can still get the watch on a choice of leather strap or stainless steel bracelet, the 'LIFT' clasp and seamless fit strap adjustment system make either choice a solid one. Since this is more of a powerhous...

The Top 5 Recent Field Watches Fratello
Oct 16, 2026

The Top 5 Recent Field Watches

Another Friday, another list. This week, we pick five of our favorite recent field watches. The category always sparks debate. What began with World War I “trench watches” has evolved into a versatile range of functional, reliable, legible timekeeping companions ready for all kinds of adventures. That broader definition brings plenty of options to the […] Visit The Top 5 Recent Field Watches to read the full article.

The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum Makes Every Hour A Mechanical Spectacle Fratello
Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum Makes Oct 16, 2026

The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum Makes Every Hour A Mechanical Spectacle

Urwerk explores the mechanics of quantum theory with the new UR-300 Time Quantum. Its unusual display combines two interconnected hour modules in a T-shaped frame that rapidly reconfigures itself every hour. The concept gives the independent watchmaker a fresh take on its signature wandering-hour complication, backed by a movement engineered to handle the forces involved […] Visit The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum Makes Every Hour A Mechanical Spectacle to read the full article.

The Biver AB Debuts As The Brand’s First Stainless Steel Watch With A New Manually Wound Movement Fratello
Oct 16, 2026

The Biver AB Debuts As The Brand’s First Stainless Steel Watch With A New Manually Wound Movement

Biver introduces its first stainless steel watch, the new AB, short for Acier Biver. Developed in response to customer demand, the AB combines a 38mm steel case with a remarkably slim 9.8mm profile and a brand-new manually wound movement. A sophisticated dial construction creates impressive depth, while the black-and-gold aesthetic delivers understated luxury rather than […] Visit The Biver AB Debuts As The Brand’s First Stainless Steel Watch With A New Manually Wound Movement to read the full article.

Introducing: The Biver 'AB' - A New Manually-Wound Release In Steel Hodinkee
Oct 16, 2026

Introducing: The Biver 'AB' - A New Manually-Wound Release In Steel

What We Know A few weeks ago I got an unexpected invite from Pierre Biver to see the brand's newest watch. Despite any ideas I might have had in my mind, Biver's new watch—just called the "AB"—was not what I expected. Instead of a new, complicated, potentially larger piece, the AB is a response to customer demand, says Biver (the person, not the brand, but kind of the person and the brand in one). After their Automatique was a runaway success in its various forms over the past two years, they resisted the urge to put the proprietary movement in a stainless steel case (as highly requested). Instead, today, they're launching a manually-wound, proprietary new movement with over 100 hours of power reserve, in a smaller steel case and moving the brand forward. The watch measures 38mm by 9.8mm thick, with a 19mm lug width. The case maintains the general hallmarks of Biver's cases, with brushed and polished geometric angular lugs—reminiscent of a Patek 3448 or 3450—but with tweaks to the bezel to change how it looks on the wrist. The dial is a multi-level gold dial, with a grained central texture, 2N gold metallicized indices, chamfered levels, gold hands with hand-finished facets, and an onyx stone-dial ring for the hour and minute track. The watch also comes with Biver's striking, angular bracelet, which now comes with a patented micro-adjust activated by two push buttons. Photo by Mark Kauzlarich. The caliber JCB-004 is developed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Hor...

Introducing The Fears Arnos Opera Black: The Ultimate Black Tie Watch Fratello
Fears Arnos Opera Black Oct 16, 2026

Introducing The Fears Arnos Opera Black: The Ultimate Black Tie Watch

Mozart’s Don Giovanni is regarded as one of the greatest operas of all time. The Commendatore’s story forms its moral and supernatural core. Don Giovanni, a serial libertine, kills the Commendatore in a duel. Later, after mocking a statue erected in memory of the father of Donna Anna, the woman he harassed in her quarters […] Visit Introducing The Fears Arnos Opera Black: The Ultimate Black Tie Watch to read the full article.