Hodinkee
Introducing: The De Bethune DB28xs Starry Seas, A Downsized Version Of The DB28
The latest evolution of the DB28 follows the trend towards smaller watches.
Results for Equation of Time
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Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
Graf von Faber-Castell Pen of the Year 2022 . . . Plus Five More from Previous Years – Reprise
Faber-Castell introduced its first Pen of the Year in 2003 and has annually introduced a limited edition pen with a very specific theme ever since. Each tells the tale of a person, a place, or an era that helped “shape the development of humanity,” according to the company. The Pen of the Year 2022 is inspired by the influential Aztec civilization.
Worn & Wound
Nomos Honors 175 Years of Glashütte Watchmaking with Orion Trio
Nomos has been a staple of consistency in recent years, tweaking their finely honed collections to further degrees of refinement. Nowhere is that more apparent than in this latest trio of limited edition Orion watches, which represent a nod to 175 years of watchmaking in the German town of Glashütte. The new Orion watches are as subtle as they are beautiful, with plenty of joy to discover in the sparingly deployed details. Subtlety is the name of the game here, and Nomos does this better than just about anyone, with the Orion serving as the perfect platform not only for this concept, but also historic watches crafted by young watchmakers looking to make a mark, not only for themselves, but for the town of Glashütte. As watchmaking apprentices in Glashütte would complete their training, a final project watch would be built to showcase their finely tuned skills at that point. These were anything but practice watches, they were built to “demonstrate the full breadth and depth of their skill”. It is here that Nomos has derived inspiration for this trio of Orion watches, which showcase their own set of unique details that reflect the pride of watchmaking in Glashütte. The Orion watches that celebrate 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking are, naturally, limited to 175 pieces each. They are the Orion neomatik, Orion neomatik 39 and Orion neomatik 41 date, collectively. Each boast silver plated, domed dials with gold indices for an incredibly subtle but chic look. In a firs...
Worn & Wound
Culture and Community: A Recap of San Francisco Windup Watch Fair 2023
Though our recent Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco wrapped a few weeks ago, it still feels like yesterday as this was our most ambitious event to date. We had more watch brands than any other Windup. In the form of “EDC Alley”, we had more watch-adjacent brands than ever. We also continued to push the boundaries of what a watch fair can be with one-of-a-kind culture building moments throughout the exciting, long weekend. First and foremost, we’d like to thank everyone who came out to the event, to meet and buy watches, and to help make it a huge success. Our team had the pleasure of speaking with many of you, some of whom traveled from all around the country and even various parts of the world. Bringing all of these unique product enthusiasts under one roof made for a distinctively energetic show, complete with delectable food trucks and sunny California skies. We miss it already. We’d also like to thank all of the brands that chose to participate in the San Francisco Fair, from our distinguished lead sponsors: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac to our amazing Key Sponsors: Alpina, Bulova, Citizen, Collective, eBay, Europa Star, Fears, G-SHOCK, Junghans, Maurice LaCroix, and Norqain. Finally, we want to give a special shout out to VERO Watch Company for premiering their first short film called “Katabatic Flight” at the show followed by a live acoustic set by the film’s director Matt Costa, who also scored the film. We also want to th...
SJX Watches
Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China
As I was examining the Patek Philippe ref. 96QL once owned by the last Emperor of China, I wondered about the state of the movement. The watch is clearly old – it was sold in almost a century ago – and was not running. Phillips wasn’t able to show me the movement on the spot, understandably considering the value of the watch, although they promised they would get me some information shortly. Their response was more than I expected. Taking the form of a forensic report detailing the materials and details of the watch – right down to a X-ray spectrographic analysis of the dial – the information reveals much about the watch. To start with, the spectrograph of the reverse of the dial reveals it is 92.4% silver, 6.94% copper, with the rest comprised of silver and gold. This finally answer the long-ago question posed by Puyi when he tasked his manservant “Big Li” to scrape off the dial’s coating in order to see if it is platinum like the case. It is but a brass dial plated in silver. The analysis of the dial’s back Inside the platinum case is an 11”’ movement that likely began as an ebauche from LeCoultre that was then completed by Victorin Piguet, which produced the simple calendar module on the top. The movement was then likely sent to Patek Philippe, which applied the finishing touches and cased it. The back of the movement is evidently classical, with the flowing bridges that were then the norm in movement design. It is also finished as high-end movemen...
Quill & Pad
Bombay Sapphire Premier Cru Murcian Lemon Gin: The Fastest Growing Premium Gin And One Of The Most Popular – Reprise
Bombay Sapphire is one of the most widely used gins and the fastest growing premium gin in the world. These days, with the gincredible popularity of the spirit, that means it is one of the most loved and drunk spirits on the planet. Ken Gargett takes a deep dive.
Worn & Wound
J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969
It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop. The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in t...
Hodinkee
Reading Time At HSNY: It’s Complicated – Time And 18th Century Navigation
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
SJX Watches
Up Close: The Imperial Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China
With the Geneva auctions just having concluded, the spring sale season now moves to Hong Kong. The biggest event during auction week in the city will undoubtedly The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, an evening sale that take places at Phillips on May 23. The auction gets its name from the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96QL in platinum once owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last Emperor of China. Known to the market for several years but now going under the hammer for the first time, the watch might emerge as the year’s most valuable watch sold at auction – or it might not, given the mixed reputation of the final Qing Emperor. But regardless of the value, the Puyi’s Patek Philippe is an exceptionally interesting watch, both intrinsically and in terms of provenance. The provenance Phillips pulled out all the stops in marketing The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, no doubt an attempt to reach an audience beyond watch collectors. While the ref. 96QL is an exceedingly rare watch – and worth millions on its own – the provenance of this example is bona fide “Imperial”. The story of the watch is ably told in a documentary produced by Phillips especially for the auction. The 17-minute film explains how the life and times of Puyi, his fascination with timepieces, and importantly, how the ref. 96QL ended up in the possession of a Russian translator. Amongst the interviewees in the film is Russell Working, an American journalist who once profiled the Russian translator, Georgy Pe...
Worn & Wound
Out Of Office: Cruising the California Coast With The Grand Seiko SBGE285
“Out of Office” is a series of stories accounting our experiences trying to find moments of solace outdoors, as well as our interaction with the gear that comes along with us, and that most certainly includes the watches on our wrist. Out of Office is an escape. It’s about finding an opportunity to put the world on pause, whether it’s the few minutes you take out of your day to read this article, or its the couple of hours you dedicate to getting out there. It’s where our experience meets our enthusiasm. Through this series we’ve already seen our authors do a hike in the local hills with a Sinn, explore a glacier via seaplane with a Citizen and a road trip through New England with a Rolex. Let’s continue this journey together and see where it takes us.” It’s no secret that I love the west coast. I might have been born in Tennessee, but my heart belongs in California. The ocean, the trees, the mountains…they just have my soul. I was recently in San Francisco for our annual Windup Watch Fair and decided to take a few days after the event to travel North up the Sonoma Coast, then back down to Monterey before heading back to Nashville. I expected a fun relaxing vacation with my BFF and that’s exactly what I got. Before I dive into some of the places I visited on this trip, I want to quickly go over some of the gear I brought with me. My camera of choice for this vacation was the Panasonic Lumix S5II with the Panasonic 85mm 1.8 lens. This camera is on lo...
Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Adds a Pair of Limited Editions Peanuts Themed Watches to the Collection to Celebrate their Anniversary
If you continue to miss out on the ultra popular and still incredibly difficult to track down Silver Snoopy Speedmaster that Omega released in 2020 to an incredible level of hysteria, Seiko has what will certainly be a more affordable and (probably) easier to find pair of limited editions coming that might scratch that Snoopy itch. The latest Seiko 5 Sports limited editions are both Snoopy themed, and capture a lot of the charm from the original comics in subtle ways. The new watches use the smaller Seiko 5 Sports platforms, the 38mm case size with a dive bezel, and the 36mm field watch style case without a bezel. Each has a white dial with graphics pulled right from the comic. The larger dive style watch has an image of Snoopy with a surfboard (with the words “Seiko 5 Sports” printed on in).The smaller watch features Snoopy and Woodstock negotiating a parachute. These watches are being released as part of this year’s 55th anniversary celebration of the Seiko 5 Sports imprint. Accordingly, the artwork for the new watches was pulled from Peanuts comics dating to 1968, Seiko 5 Sports’ first year. That extends to the casebacks as well, which both feature larger images from the comics along with a “Limited Edition” designation. My personal favorite tribute to the original comics in these watches though is the use of the ‘Schulz’ font for the numerals on each piece. Along with the artwork, it makes these watches feel more grounded in their original comic str...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Topo Designs Adds an Array of Funky Multi-Purpose Packs, Pushing Bodily Limits in a McMurtry Spéirling, & a Couple of Versatile Gerber EDC Tools
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Topo Designs Topo Designs Adds Classic River Silhouettes To Their Core Mountain Collection This week, Topo Designs has added their favorite River pieces to their core Mountain Collection. Their latest offering blends the lightweight, waterproof features of their River capsule with the durable, alpine style of their Mountain Collection, breeding a whole new set of versatile and eye-catching packs. Inspired by ‘70s interior design and the more vibrant colors of nature, this new addition provides a wide array of choices to keep your gear and other essentials organized for whatever you have planned for this Sping and beyond. The Mountain Gear Bag Via Topo Designs Out of the entire collection, we’re going to take a look at a few packs starting with the Mountain Gear Bag. In a silhouette that resembles a combination of a duffle and tote bag, the Mountain Gear Bag is built to throw any sort of essentials in its 48L main compartment, whether that be a pair of hiking boots, a change of clothes, a sleeping bag or any other combination you can think of, this utilitarian ...
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin and the Louvre Museum: A new Celebration of Heritage and Artistry
Discover the fascinating history of Vacheron Constantin, one of the oldest and most prestigious watchmakers in the world. From its founding in Geneva in 1755 to its innovative timepieces and iconic designs, learn about the brand's rich heritage and enduring legacy in the luxury watch industry.
Hodinkee
Auctions: Chameleons, Complications, An Intergalactic Rolex, And All The Big-Time Lots From The Geneva Auctions
After a day on the ground previewing hundreds of watches, we give you a look at 10 highlights.
Hodinkee
Auctions: This Patek Perpetual Calendar Is Already An Important Watch; The Story Of Its Former Owner Makes It Even More Fascinating
A one-of-six pink gold perpetual calendar is set to be auctioned this week; it was once owned by an enigmatic millionaire whose life and death were the object of interest (and investigations).
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Good Looking Leisure Time Watch – Vintage NOS Hamilton Khaki Fields Now Available
The post A Good Looking Leisure Time Watch – Vintage NOS Hamilton Khaki Fields Now Available appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Bravur Unveils a New Cycling Inspired Watch, Just in Time for Italy’s Giro d’Italia
The transformation of Bravur, the small Swedish microbrand that has always taken a demonstrably Scandinavian approach to their watch designs, into a boutique label focusing largely on cycling influenced watches, has to be one of the least expected developments in our space over the past few years. Maybe it shouldn’t have been, though. Brand founders Magnus Äppelryd and Johan Sahlin are both cycling enthusiasts, and the design inspiration for their watches has always come from a personal place. Maybe it was only a matter of time? Of course, not all of the watches in their collection are cycling inspired, but limited edition chronographs released to mark major pro cycling races have become something of an expectation at this point, and it has changed the brand identity in a real way. The latest watch in this vein, the La Corsa Rosa III, continues the trend while establishing some new design notes as well. I’ll come right out and say at the outset that I am not a cycling enthusiast. I don’t even really keep up with following cycling’s professional ranks in a casual way. I think that means I’m probably not the target market for these watches, but I have to say, I’ve always been really fond of them. I love watches that appeal to a very specific niche, the narrower the better, and these seem to fit that bill nicely. I’m also a big fan of the creative use of color on watch dials, and the general format Bravur has followed by borrowing traditional colors associate...
Hodinkee
Historical Perspectives: Inside The Archives Of Daniel Roth (Video)
Daniel Roth has been revived with the help of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton – but you cannot fully appreciate the present until you understand the past.
Worn & Wound
Changing of the Guard: Bremont Celebrates the Coronation of King Charles III & New Leadership at The Wing
There’s a certain level of homeland pride in every way that Bremont operates. It’s apparent in their designs and palpable throughout their entire company from top to bottom. The Giles brothers have made it their life’s mission to produce beautifully British-made mechanical watches and if there needs to be any more confirmation of how successfully that’s going, then let “The Wing”, Bremont’s vast campus and headquarters in Henley which has subsequently brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores, put any queries to bed. As Bremont ambassador and now friend of Worn & Wound, Alex Bescoby eloquently put it in a recent interview, “Bremont is all about beautifully putting together traditional and British design, and celebrating that.” Well, for the folks living across the pond, there’s lots to celebrate as this past weekend, in front of 2,200 ceremony attendees and millions watching around the world, King Charles III was crowned as Great Britain’s new monarch. It’s only fitting that Bremont, who already has an ongoing partnership with the Ministry of Defence (MoD) to honor His Majesty’s Armed Forces, has released two limited edition models that marks a moment in history with the coronation of His Majesty. The MBII King Charles III Limited Edition largely retains the familiar design cues of the Martin-Baker collection – dual crown configuration, internal rotating bezel, a distinct knurled barrel design and internal case reinforcements. As every other Bremo...
Quill & Pad
The Number of Jewels in a Watch Movement Indicates Value, or Does It? A Myth Debunked – Reprise
Does anyone really care how many jewels their watch has? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy thinks that you’d be surprised how many people do as they've been duped by a vintage practice of announcing the amount of movement jewels on watch dials. What is the real story here?
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: The True Story of Video Gamer Turned Professional Racing Driver, How the Discovery of the North Pole was Faked, & the Lightweight EDC-Friendly GoRuck X-PAC Collection
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Gran Turismo Gran Turismo: The True Story Of How A Video Gamer Became A Professional Racing Driver How do we measure the space between imagination and real-life experience? Where is the line between what’s virtual and what’s real? For Jann Mardenborough, the only way for him to know was to cross that line and to never go back. Mardenborough was just 19 years old when he won the GT Academy, a competition that took the best Gran Turismo video game players from around the world and trained them so that they would be able to jump into an actual race car and drive upwards of 200 mph around some of the most iconic race tracks around the globe. Mardenborough’s career would accelerate from there, as he would go on to have a top 3 finish at Le Mans and a top-of-the-podium finish at GP3 in 2014. Although this sounds like a Cinderella story, there is an unfortunate tragedy that underlines the fact that professional race car driving is no longer a video game. There is no reset button. Via Gran Turismo Gran Turismo is a film that portrays Jann Mardenborough’s story f...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: Ten Of The Greatest Missing Watches, Part Two
Since Part One, some of history's missing watches have been found. But from Lennon to Aldrin and even J.P. Morgan, here are 10 watches we're still hoping to find.
SJX Watches
Interview: Cyrille Vigneron, Philosopher King of Cartier
After a quarter century at Cartier, Cyrille Vigneron was tapped for the top job in 2016, becoming President and Chief Executive Officer of perhaps the grandest name in jewellery. Under his stewardship Cartier’s lustre has only grown. Not only is the jeweller the second-largest watchmaker by sales, it is such a coveted marque that LVMH chief Bernard Arnault recently commented in the Wall Street Journal, “Cartier is a fantastic brand [but] it’s not for sale.” During Watches & Wonders, I met Mr Vigneron for an interview that ran longer than expected, but we barely touched on watches or jewellery. Dressed in a grey turtleneck, Mr Vigneron possessed the air of an intellectual, very much atypical for an industry where leaders are often big personalities and dressed to match. Yet Mr Vigneron is actually something of a social media influencer, albeit a professional one with over 82,000 followers on LinkedIn. His latest post on the professional social media platform posed the question, “What is true beauty?”, accompanied by a photo of a fallen autumn leaf. It received over a thousand likes and almost 100 comments. His posts on the network usually discuss abstract concepts while offering sharp insight, which is why I decided to leave out the watches (which we have already amply covered) and instead seek his perspective on bigger topics. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: I follow your LinkedIn posts and find there’s always a philosophical, reflective...
Worn & Wound
Yema Introduces a Wide Range of Field Watches to Their Urban Sport Collection
As it is currently constructed, Yema’s Urban Sport watch collection is made up of two models – the Wristmaster Micro Rotor and the Wristmaster Traveller. Both use an octagonal profile, a unique bit-like fixed bezel and an integrated steel bracelet design. Besides the dial, their in-house movements which include the micro rotor equipped CMM.20 (a brand first) and the YEMA2000 are what distinguishes each model. But if a more traditional, round-cased silhouette with a splash of neo-vintage character is what you’re after, then this incoming batch hitting Yema’s Urban Sport collection might tickle your fancy. The new Yema Urban Field comprises ten watches with five various dial colors, two different case sizes, and a Swiss manual winding movement. In the world of sport-casual field watches, there has always been this ongoing debate as to what is the appropriate case size for a solid everyday wearing field watch. Those who lean strongly towards the purist end of the spectrum might say 36mm, or bust. The enthusiast who prefers a more contemporary wearing watch might argue that 40mm is the way to go. Whatever your preference is, Yema is looking to cover the entire ground by offering a svelte 37.5mm case and a modern 40mm case, respectively. Both the 37.5mm and 40mm case sizes get the same set of five dial colorways. Each dial is embellished with a sandblasted finish that provides a sea of grainy-like texture that surrounds the more muted appearance of both the markers and ...
SJX Watches
Inside Tudor Manufacture: The Pursuit of Mechanical and Industrial Perfection
Tudor, in my estimation, makes watches that are the best value in the under-US$5,000 price segment. In fact, the brand arguably offers the best value proposition in most price segments, simply because its watches have specs, features, and quality that are unrivalled, even at several steps up the price ladder. The brand’s value proposition began in 2015 when Tudor launched its first in-house movement inside the unloved North Flag. But the compelling nature of its watches notwithstanding, Tudor has long suffered from being perceived as a “lesser” Rolex. In fairness, that was probably an apt description of the brand up until the mid 2000s when Tudor began its gradual but determined evolution into an independent brand. The most tangible testament to Tudor’s success as its own brand came online last year, when the Tudor manufacture in Le Locle began operations. The manufacture is the first time ever that Tudor has its own factory. Historically the brand relied on Rolex cases and outsourced movements, and operated from several floors inside the Rolex campus in Geneva. Now Tudor boasts an impressive, no-expense-spared facility that spans a generous 10,642 m2 (about 114,000 ft2), with half of that being workspace, a scale that easily allows for an annual production of up to the mid-six figures. With a roof covered in solar panels and a foundation that stretches deep into the bedrock of the Swiss Jura, the manufacture is a monument to high-quality, affordable watchmaking. ...
Quill & Pad
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 3SPC: a Watch for Today Right Out of History (and possibly another GPHG winner)
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronométre FB 3SPC represents an entirely new collection and a core part of the Ferdinand Berthoud ideology, impeccable horology based on the history of the brand’s namesake, all built to the highest modern standards. The FB 3SPC is a stunning journey into horological history.
Revolution
In Conversation with Akio Naito: Grand Seiko, The Pursuit of Perfect Watchmaking
Wei catches up with Mr. Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation, who will soon celebrate 40 years with the company in 2024. From his humble beginnings at the company straight out of university to leading it from strength to strength as it grows its presence around the world, Mr Naito shares the key milestones […]
Deployant
New: G-SHOCK new limited edition Frogman Master of G
The third piece in the Frogman limited edition releases from Casio G-SHOCK, the new DW-8230NT in chilli red reminiscent of the 2000 model.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Brittany Nicole Cox To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Antiquarian Horologist will examine the history behind the lineage of the mechanical singing-bird along with a case study.
Deployant
Commentary: The revival of France Ebauches – with new French made mechanical movements
After almost 30 years of absence, Manufacture France Ebauches returns to making mechanical movement manufacture under the auspices of the Festina Group.