Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Grail-Level Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, A Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar, And A Neo-Vintage Daniel Roth Chronograph
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's what's selling where column.
2,962 articles · 112 videos found · page 2 of 103
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's what's selling where column.
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Plus a 39mm IWC Mark XVI, and a titanium Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.
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Plus a wild card entry from Bell & Ross.
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Plus a well-executed IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, and a British Racing Green Breitling Bentley Premier.
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Plus the "Lake Suwa" from Grand Seiko, and a Saxonia from A. Lange & Söhne that you don't want to miss.
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And why I think we're still just getting started.
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Plus a Patek Philippe with a Geneva Seal and the other TAG Heuer named after a Formula 1 track.
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A curated selection of what the Hodinkee Shop has to offer.
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It's been more than a decade-long drought, and Inzaghi wore a watch that can handle water just fine.
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Five watches from the Hodinkee Shop that are old enough to drink.
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The gram debuted in 2010. And since then, a lot of us have adopted a 'pics or it didn't happen' mindset. But these strange and wonderful watches very much did happen, even if you've never seen them in your feed.
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Some unusual picks in this week's round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
Worn & Wound
The name “Speedmaster Reduced” is a blanket term for the Speedmaster Automatics with cases smaller than the iconic 42mm Omega Speedmaster Professional. First launched in the late ’80s, there is a dizzying number of references included in the “Reduced” family, some being more well-known than others, such as the ref. 3510.50 and ref. 3520.50.00. Always popular among the enthusiast community, they offered Speedy looks at sub-Speedy prices and, simply, a smaller option. Now considered “neo-vintage,” the Reduced models were discontinued around 2010. Something that is cool about the Speedmaster is that while it’s a singular watch, it’s also a design language. It’s the typography, marker style, hands, bezel, etc. As such, it can be molded to different formats and the end result still reads “Speedmaster.” This is perhaps best seen in the Mark series, but is also quite true of the Reduced models and, beginning in 2017, the Speedmaster 38. I might be in the minority here, but I like that Omega will go in weird directions with the non-Professional Speedmasters. Maybe they work, maybe they don’t, but I’m sure all will find an audience somewhere, or at some time. Even models like the Speedmaster Chronoscope, which makes no sense to me, have the potential to be future cult hits. And for a while, Omega went a bit weird with its smaller option. With a gap in the catalog left by the discontinuation of the Reduced references, Omega released the Speedmaster 38 lin...
SJX Watches
The Roger Dubuis (RD) Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is something of a bridge across eras for RD, combining the brand’s seminal biretrograde calendar format with the 2000s-era Excalibur case, executed in RD’s current lavishly layered house style. The revised perpetual calendar module brings plenty of haute horlogerie finishing to the dial side, and should prove more reliable than past iterations as well. Initial thoughts The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual is a new model, but it feels like a watch that has always been around, combining several familiar Roger Dubuis elements. Chief among them is the biretrograde format, which has been a staple of the brand since its founding era. When the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar debuted last year, we speculated that a perpetual version was likely in the pipeline, and we didn’t have to wait long to find out. In terms of design, it’s pure RD through and through. The brand has offered glimpses of a return to its roots — the Hommage La Placide was well-received by neo-vintage enthusiasts — but it’s clear the brand remains committed to this bolder, more flamboyant vision of haute horlogerie that it has been championing since the launch of the Excalibur in 2005, albeit at a smaller size. Of course, the design won’t appeal to everyone, but that might be a good thing. Taste convergence favours the classics, but the polarising Excalibur aesthetic will appeal to those who appreciate traditional watchmaking but are ...
Teddy Baldassarre
The story of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5065a, one of the most iconic and influential neo-vintage luxury sports watches.
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Hodinkee
If there was a way to celebrate the 225th anniversary of Breguet patenting the tourbillon, re-launching a version of the brand's iconic ref. 3350 was the obvious crowd-pleasing option. There was always something charming about that original tourbillon from the 1980s, but there were some downsides too. The new ref. 7357 is Breguet's best effort to solve those downsides, modernize, and give buyers what they say they've wanted for a long time. At a true-to-vintage 35mm diameter by 9.2mm thick (43mm lug-to-lug), with 30m of water resistance, it's the same but different. In a lot of great ways. For those not in the vintage or neo-vintage space, Breguet created an all-time great watch when Daniel Roth (prior to his own brand) worked for Breguet and modified a Nouvelle Lemania ébauche into a compact and impressive tourbillon wristwatch. You can see an original platinum ref. 3357 example below (the quick successor to the 3550). The tourbillon bridge design is different between these generations (both front and rear). The guilloché pattern, finishing, and even the movement-side treatment are different, with a very neo-vintage hand engraving on the earlier example. That watch would forge the future of the Breguet brand and, after Breguet's then-owner, Chaumet, went bankrupt, push Roth to found his own brand, where the tourbillon became a focal point. So let's look at those changes a bit more closely. First things first, the new 7357 is, by no means, a budget option. Coming in at...
Fratello
I have a form when it comes to writing about the IWC Mark XV. In fact, I previously called it my GADA watch of choice, praising the 38mm pilot’s watch for its balance, restraint, and everyday usability. The trouble with many vintage or neo-vintage timepieces, however, is that finding bracelets worthy of them can become […] Visit Forstner Brings Out Bracelets For The IWC Mark XV to read the full article.
Monochrome
When the Paris-based brand Baltic released the Peter Auto Tricompax in 2022, it was well received by enthusiasts. The watch looked straight back at classic racing chronographs and carried a strong vintage feel. This 1960s-inspired limited-edition watch fit neatly into Baltic’s chronograph story, which began in 2017 with the neo-vintage Bicompax 001 and later became […]
SJX Watches
Two leading practitioners of fine watchmaking, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet face off at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, Important Watches: Featuring “Kronos: Titans of Time”, “The Eternity” and “The Chronicle” Collections. The catalogue features blue chip high complications such as the Sky Moon Tourbillon, as well as under-appreciated neo-vintage discoveries, and the most striking of this selection doesn’t even chime. Lot 2424 – Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002P-001 While Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon started as a supporting act to the Star Caliber 2000, miniaturising the latter’s planisphere with moon passage and phases, its mindshare has far surpassed its larger sibling. It was Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch when first launched, and the super-watch of the 2000s. Collectors entering the watch world during that time speak of it with the same nostalgia and reverence 2000s kids give to the Bugatti Veyron. The design was rather contemporary for early 2000s Patek Philippe, and looks nothing like its successor, the baroque ref. 6002. At 42 mm in diameter, it was also notably large — the ref. 5016 with which shares most of its movement, was only 36 mm in diameter. It was forward thinking in another way, selling an extremely expensive, astronomical complication as an off-the-rack product, continuing Philippe Stern’s “build it and they will come” attitude that began with the Calibre 89. Patek Philippe’...
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Timothée Chalamet has gotten really deep into independent watchmaking lately. He's shown up at press events, basketball games, and on the red carpet, wearing everything from a Simon Brette to a Franck Muller and even an Akrivia AK-06. He's also been wearing a neo-vintage Urban Jürgensen from time to time. But it seems like he's always rotated back to his trusty Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, the time-only watch that launched with the brand's revival last summer. He wore the watch promoting the movie Marty Supreme, and again later, when he won the Golden Globe for Best Male Actor in a Motion Picture – Musical or Comedy for that same film. And now, in a move that makes his passion for the brand official, he's gotten on board as a minority partner and creative advisor. Timothée Chalamet wears an Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 as he attends the 83rd annual Golden Globe Awards at The Beverly Hilton on January 11, 2026 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images) In a press release provided by the brand, Alex Rosenfield, CEO of Urban Jürgensen, says that Chalamet's passion for independent watchmaking isn't just him hopping on a trend, but rather a part of his passion for craft and quality of work. "We want to work together to advance our mission of bringing a contemporary perspective to the world of independent watchmaking while remaining grounded in what has always defined it," says Rosenfield. The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, UJ-1, and UJ-3, from our story on the brand rev...
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The journey down the vintage watch wormhole continues with my new Fuchsia bezel on my 1967 Rolex 1675 GMT "Tiffany & Co" stamped dial.
Fratello
Certain watches quietly sit in the sweet spot of the collector market. They’re not hyped, not aggressively marketed, and not yet pulled into the gravitational field of speculative pricing. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVI Spitfire ref. IW325502 is one of them. Produced in the mid-2000s, this neo-vintage pilot’s watch captures something that feels increasingly […] Visit The Quiet Sweet Spot: Why The IWC Mark XVI Spitfire Ref. IW325502 Deserves More Attention to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Sinn announces the all-new 544 and 544 RS. This 38.5mm neo-vintage sports watch might just be the most exciting entry-level Sinn yet.
Monochrome
Coming up for its 50th anniversary, Raymond Weil marks the occasion with The Fifty, a handsome chronograph powered by a restored Valjoux 23-6 column-wheel chronograph from 1976, its year of birth. Donning a neo-vintage sector dial, inspired by the Millesime Small Seconds and the Millesime Chronograph, this accomplished limited edition is poised to captivate a […]
SJX Watches
The value-forward, design-savvy French micro-brand Baltic debuts its first worldtimer, the Heures du Monde with a trio of stone dials – sodalite, tiger’s eye and labradorite, each limited to 200 pieces as a lead up to a future regular production version. It’s a fully functional and sharp-looking vintage-styled worldtimer, with a modern set of features that includes a brushed ceramic bezel, plenty of lume, and a surprising 100m depth rating, for a reasonable price. Initial thoughts Stone dials and worldtimers are each in vogue, and it is only natural to combine the two – especially as worldtimers as a genre are predisposed to vibrant dials, such as enameling, engine turning, or miniature painting. It doesn’t hurt that the Heueres du Monde is a competent watch and fair value proposition over all. Baltic pitches the model as an homage to the work of Louis Cottier, who invented the format. It specifically takes after his earliest worldtimers, which comprised a simple 24-hour disk geared to the hands, and a rotating bezel with the names of cites arrayed around its perimeter. The sodalite, tiger’s Eye and labradorite dials are tasteful, fit the overall watch, and will no doubt age better than many other stone dial offerings from micro-brands today. That said, it was the probably the right decision on Baltic’s part to make these colourways limited, as it doesn’t fit with what I suspect is a more vintage, rather than neo-vintage, vision for the model. Given the br...
Teddy Baldassarre
To many watch enthusiasts today, Nivada Grenchen is a boutique watchmaker that seemed to pop up out of nowhere several years ago and quickly found itself in the neo-vintage price-to-value conversation, alongside a handful of other start-up microbrands. But in actuality, the brand turns 100 years old this year, and its retro-stylish, mostly tool-oriented watches are not merely following a trend of evoking a fondly remembered era of watch design; they are actually modern remakes of watches that the brand released decades ago. [toc-section heading="Nivada Grenchen History & Highlights"] Watchmaker Jacob Schneider established the workshop that became the Nivada brand in 1926, in the Swiss town of Grenchen (its Swiss-German name; the French-Swiss call it “Granges”). Unlike many of its contemporaries, which were still focusing on high-luxury timepieces, Nivada Grenchen put its emphasis from the start on practical, reliable tool watches, quickly gaining acclaim for its developments in this area. Schneider’s company also was among the first to merge traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with emerging industrial technologies. Starting in the 1930s, Nivada Grenchen became one of the first Swiss watchmaking companies to mass produce watches with automatic movements - an invention that had only been around since John Harwood patented the first one in 1923. Nivada Grenchen (the “Grenchen” was officially added to the brand name after litigation by Movado, which was conc...
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Frederique Constant has been pursuing Affordable Luxury for almost 40 years, and the brand shows no signs of slowing down. Quite the opposite, actually, as this new Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture is looking rathe...
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